Bruce's long awaited journey begins: #1294

[Mastertech5]

I don't even know if there is a Maaco around here anymore. There was about 30 years ago. I had my Mustang painted with baked enamal at Earl Sheib in Boston in 1974 or '75 for $50.00 and I did the prep.

[Mastertech5]

Today I got the trunk lid gapped. It fits pretty good. I just have to install the nutserts in it for the hinges, adjust and touch up the gaps in a few places. I'm not seeming to have a problem with the arc not matching the body arc like I've read some other builders have had, yay!

[33fromSD]

Today I got the trunk lid gapped. It fits pretty good. I just have to install the nutserts in it for the hinges, adjust and touch up the gaps in a few places. I'm not seeming to have a problem with the arc not matching the body arc like I've read some other builders have had, yay!

The Arc / overall fit on the deck lid seems to be hit or miss. My Gen 2 a few years ago fit just fine too, but then folks who got kits a couple months after mine had terrible fit issues.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I did the gaps on the top and sides first by taping the lid down and then running tape along the lid to simulate a gap. Then I sanded to the edges of the tape and taped the lid back on and checked. Repeated the process until I was happy. Then I did the bottom edge. Rounded the corners a bit and took the sharp edges down a bit. I got the nutserts installed and taped the lid down where I wanted it and tightened the bolts up. It goes up and down good. The lid just scuffs in the middle top. I'll sand that down some more and round off the edges top and bottom. I'll widen the gaps in a couple other places and round off all the sharp edges. Then on to the doors.

[33fromSD]

Don't sand too much on the middle top of the deck lid until you have the waterfall installed on the inside which will stiffen the part of the body above the deck lid. I noticed on mine there was a lot of flex in the body above the deck lid until the waterfall is in place to stiffen it up. When you open and close the deck lid watch the body section above the deck lid and you can see it flex some.

Another thing you should do which some do, some don't, is install the rubber weatherstrip on the body for the rear deck lid, this will also help you visualize how the deck lid will line up with the weather strip installed. This does change the fit some. Better to know it now before you paint then after you paint an figure out you have an issue.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Don't sand too much on the middle top of the deck lid until you have the waterfall installed on the inside which will stiffen the part of the body above the deck lid. I noticed on mine there was a lot of flex in the body above the deck lid until the waterfall is in place to stiffen it up. When you open and close the deck lid watch the body section above the deck lid and you can see it flex some.

Another thing you should do which some do, some don't, is install the rubber weatherstrip on the body for the rear deck lid, this will also help you visualize how the deck lid will line up with the weather strip installed. This does change the fit some. Better to know it now before you paint then after you paint an figure out you have an issue.

Jim

I did put the weatherstrip on. The manual says to and ,to me, it only makes sense to do it that way. I did notice the flexibility of the center area of the body. Good to know about the waterfall, thanks!

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[33fromSD]

Looks great, similar to how mine fit. Then I've seen others where they are up a good 1/4" in the arc.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

I did put the weatherstrip on. The manual says to and ,to me, it only makes sense to do it that way. I did notice the flexibility of the center area of the body. Good to know about the waterfall, thanks!

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That looks great

[JimLev]

I made 3 L-bracket to pull down the back of the rear cowl so the edge of the trunk would clear the edge of the cowl.

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[Mastertech5]

I made 3 L-bracket to pull down the back of the rear cowl so the edge of the trunk would clear the edge of the cowl.

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That's a good idea! When you do final assembly after paint there is that foam strip that goes on top of the frame rail and I'm sure that would push it up. Did you bond them to the body and rivet the lower sections?

[Mastertech5]

Today I worked on the passenger door. I got the gaps ok for now. I'm having trouble not being able to get the panel lined up flush with the body all around. The main problem is the lower front where the big curve is. If I get the back ok the front is in too far. If I get the front ok the rear lower is out too far. It's like the door is twisted. I've loosened all the bolts on the hinges and the stand off, lined things up and it seems ok until I tighten the nuts on the hinge arms in the door. Things move when the nuts are turned. I had it good once but I took the door off to widen the gap on the top rear because it would chafe on the upper corner of the body where it goes from vertical to horizontal. I'm thinking I might have to enlarge the holes for the door latch bolts except the top one so I can pivot the lower part of the door out on the cross bar. Then I'll have to go through this all again after paint.

[33fromSD]

Today I worked on the passenger door. I got the gaps ok for now. I'm having trouble not being able to get the panel lined up flush with the body all around. The main problem is the lower front where the big curve is. If I get the back ok the front is in too far. If I get the front ok the rear lower is out too far. It's like the door is twisted. I've loosened all the bolts on the hinges and the stand off, lined things up and it seems ok until I tighten the nuts on the hinge arms in the door. Things move when the nuts are turned. I had it good once but I took the door off to widen the gap on the top rear because it would chafe on the upper corner of the body where it goes from vertical to horizontal. I'm thinking I might have to enlarge the holes for the door latch bolts except the top one so I can pivot the lower part of the door out on the cross bar. Then I'll have to go through this all again after paint.

It's not the doors themselves, it's the metal work of the doors guts. See my build page (link by my signature) and look at post #182 & #185 to see what I figured out and what I did to make everything line up great. I'm fairly certain if you make these modifications your door will line up great.

Jim

[RoadRacer]

> It's like the door is twisted

They are. But once you know this it’s easier to fix. All build threads have this realization and similar fixes

[JimLev]

That's a good idea! When you do final assembly after paint there is that foam strip that goes on top of the frame rail and I'm sure that would push it up. Did you bond them to the body and rivet the lower sections?

I used screws to hold the L-brackets in place. The top screws are countersunk into the fiberglass so they are even with the body. The weatherstripping covers the screw head.
I also has a bear of a time getting both doors aligned, FFR had to replace the drivers door, it was warped pretty bad.

[Mastertech5]

SUCCESS! I made the modifications suggested by 33fromSD. Much better. I still had to pull the lower front section out a little on the bar. When I took the bar out to make the bend I noticed the lower holes for the latch on the bar are slotted, so I put everything back in the door, got it where I wanted it and tighten things up. The lower front was still in a little. I opened the door, loosened the latch bolts and pulled it out just a hair and tighten them. When I closed the door everything lined up. Thanks 33fromSD!
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In the second picture it looks like it's out too far but you're seeing the sanded edge in the gap. It is flush with the body. One thing I figured out, because I leaned down on the door, is that you have to tighten up the two bolts that connect the cross bar and the rear bracket super tight. I grabbed the bar to support it while I pushed down on my ratchet with all my might. You can't use an impact gun because the nuts are on the back side. FFR should have designed it with 3 bolts.

[33fromSD]

SUCCESS! I made the modifications suggested by 33fromSD. Much better. I still had to pull the lower front section out a little on the bar. When I took the bar out to make the bend I noticed the lower holes for the latch on the bar are slotted, so I put everything back in the door, got it where I wanted it and tighten things up. The lower front was still in a little. I opened the door, loosened the latch bolts and pulled it out just a hair and tighten them. When I closed the door everything lined up. Thanks 33fromSD!
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In the second picture it looks like it's out too far but you're seeing the sanded edge in the gap. It is flush with the body. One thing I figured out, because I leaned down on the door, is that you have to tighten up the two bolts that connect the cross bar and the rear bracket super tight. I grabbed the bar to support it while I pushed down on my ratchet with all my might. You can't use an impact gun because the nuts are on the back side. FFR should have designed it with 3 bolts.

Looks great, nice job!! The other suggestion I would make for making things easier for reassembly after paint and future wear & tear is once you get this to the point where you want it in the rough in stage, add a couple alignment bolts (drill 5/16" hole and add grade 8 hardware) to the main cross bar support where it ties into the hinge bracket. With the holes from FFR being slotted for adjustment they could move over time no matter how tight you make them but with the two added holes nothing will move and it will be much easier to reassemble after paint.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I went to do the driver's door today. I put in the hinge arms and pulled the bracket all the way up and snugged it up.The arms were in the middle of the cut slots. They are at the top edge on the passenger side. I slid them into the door and went to tape it on and I couldn't get it up far enough to be level with the body. I guessed I had cut them too far down, but no. I measured on the other side and the cuts in both doors are the same. I started measuring things and the body is almost 1/2" higher than the other side. Both sides are even with the bottom of the frame.The hinge brackets are at the same spot in relation to the frame. The top of the body just behind the door openings is 7 3/8" left side and 6 7/8" right side from the top of the hinges brackets.

[JimLev]

I think I mentioned a while ago that the 2 sides are not mirror images.
Others have said the same thing.

[Mastertech5]

I'll have to pull the hinge brackets and lengthen the slots to get them up where I need them. It's always something. I built a 500 plus piece Lego mustang and it only took me 3 days! LOL.
Well I can't do that. The slots are already as far as they can go. Plan B - relocate the slots and holes in the door for the rear bracket up 1/2" - done. I'll test fit the innards to see how things line up tomorrow. Now I'm worried about the hardtop fitment being lopsided because of the height difference.

[33fromSD]

I'll have to pull the hinge brackets and lengthen the slots to get them up where I need them. It's always something. I built a 500 plus piece Lego mustang and it only took me 3 days! LOL.
Well I can't do that. The slots are already as far as they can go. Plan B - relocate the slots and holes in the door for the rear bracket up 1/2" - done. I'll test fit the innards to see how things line up tomorrow. Now I'm worried about the hardtop fitment being lopsided because of the height difference.

Ah yes, that is the biggest misperception of any "kit" car and the number one reason you find unfinished kit cars for sale. The general thought is it's a kit car so part A fits to part B move on to the next step and when it doesn't people get frustrated cause they don't have the know how or skill to adapt or re-engineer something so they put it in the corner for "a while and plan to get back to it", then a year, two years, etc. passes by, they lose interest or some other life event comes up and they end up selling it.

Not saying this is you Mastertech5, just giving the general scenario, I know you have the skills & know how to figure this out but no these kits do not just fit together, there is engineering & modification involved.

Hang in there, you're doing fine.

Jim

[JimLev]

I had to build up numerous areas as well as the whole front and rear of the roof where it meets the front and rear body cowl.
You should tap on the A pillars with something to make sure they aren’t paper thin. I had to glass both of them.

[Mastertech5]

If there is one or two things about me it is that I am a problem solver and I don't like to give up on something until it is blatantly obvious that there is no point of going on. I'll figure it out with the help of some friends here on the forum. Thanks guys for the support!
I moved the rear bracket up in the door and now it sits at the right height. I noticed that the left inner door opening is cut about 1 1/2" further in than the right door. It blocks access to the lower of the two carriage bolts connecting the two brackets. I have it marked like the other side to cut today. It's suppose to rain most of the day so I probably won't be able to get the gaps done. I do that outside to keep the dust in my garage to a minimum. I use an N95 mask too.

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[Mastertech5]

I started on the driver's door today and the front and back edges were cut wrong. They left so much overhang in the back that I had to remove to get the front slanted part to fit in that the front lower half of the gap is over 1/4" and I haven't sanded it yet. Not the door edge but where the end of the dash is. The bottom is almost even with the rocker and would require minimal sanding. The door opening measures within an 1/8" of the other side. I'm thinking of asking for another door. My other option would be to extend the front of the door where it needs it but I still need to get the door back further so the striker will clear. There is no guarantee a new door would be any different.

[JimLev]

While your working on the doors drill 3-4 small hole in the bottom inside edge to let water drain out. You’ll get water building up in there when you wash it or when you get caught in the rain.

[Mastertech5]

I got the left door mounted finally! I had to remove about 1/2" of material to get that front slanted area to fit in.IMG_20230619_201410.jpg it was at the end of the arrow! All is good except where I need to add at the front curve.
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The rest came out good and it's in the same plane with the body.
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A few adjustments on all the gaps after fixing the curve and then on to the hood. It seems too short and the sides at the body are tight. I had to push it down. Another puzzle to solve.

[Mastertech5]

I got all my door gaps set and the strikers installed and adjusted. I posted a question in the body thread. Just looking for confirmation on my opinion or not. Thanks

[Mastertech5]

I've been working on the nose cone and side covers. In order not to have a 1/2" gap at the back of the hood I have the grill positioned at about the only spot it can be. The nose cone is short at the grill and the bottom of the side covers are short. I 'll have to extend them with some fiberglass work. 33fromSD had some great tips as he had the same situation. Many guys handle all the mechanical part of these builds without many problems. That part is pretty straight forward. The body part requires patience and ingenuity to fit the panels so they look right. Having this Forum to get advice on this project is invaluable. Thanks all!
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[33fromSD]

I've been working on the nose cone and side covers. In order not to have a 1/2" gap at the back of the hood I have the grill positioned at about the only spot it can be. The nose cone is short at the grill and the bottom of the side covers are short. I 'll have to extend them with some fiberglass work. 33fromSD had some great tips as he had the same situation. Many guys handle all the mechanical part of these builds without many problems. That part is pretty straight forward. The body part requires patience and ingenuity to fit the panels so they look right. Having this Forum to get advice on this project is invaluable. Thanks all!
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Your first pic was eerily similar to the situation I had which forced me to do the extending of fiberglass on the nose cone which in the end turned out great. My side panels for some odd reason though were long so I was able to trim those to fit nice.

Your side panels & nose cone will look great too when you do the same, just adds a few extra steps but in the end it will pay off. Keep up the good work, it's looking great.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Your first pic was eerily similar to the situation I had which forced me to do the extending of fiberglass on the nose cone which in the end turned out great. My side panels for some odd reason though were long so I was able to trim those to fit nice.

Your side panels & nose cone will look great too when you do the same, just adds a few extra steps but in the end it will pay off. Keep up the good work, it's looking great.

Jim

I'm trying. Thanks for the support!
I think the fan shroud I'm using needs to be redesigned by making the slanted part a 90 bend and then straight down to the lower tank. The way it's configured now you can't get the lower grill as close as it should be. The shroud contacts the UCA mount before you can get the grill in where it should be causing you to tilt it out on the bottom. Just another custom car hiccup.

[Mastertech5]

I worked on the nose cone today to extend it the necessary amount. I riveted aluminum flashing on it lined with parchment paper, mounted it, drew a line along the grill line and cut to shape. Now for the fiberglass tomorrow hopefully.
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[33fromSD]

I worked on the nose cone today to extend it the necessary amount. I riveted aluminum flashing on it lined with parchment paper, mounted it, drew a line along the grill line and cut to shape. Now for the fiberglass tomorrow hopefully.
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Nice!! Be sure to rough up the existing fiber glass along the areas where your adding glass so it bonds really nice. I think I used 120 grit on my little sanding disc on my die grinder,

Should look great!

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I did the fiberglass today. I had to remove my "mold" to enlarge a couple of holes because the aluminum wasn't lying flat against the nosecone. I wasn't sure how much to mix so I way over did it the first time. I had to stop because it started gelling up on me. Second batch was 2 ounces and I added one more layer over the existing nosecone and did the split in the middle at the back. I had just enough.
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I measured across the legs on the body and clamped and taped the nosecone at the appropriate places to match.

[33fromSD]

I did the fiberglass today. I had to remove my "mold" to enlarge a couple of holes because the aluminum wasn't lying flat against the nosecone. I wasn't sure how much to mix so I way over did it the first time. I had to stop because it started gelling up on me. Second batch was 2 ounces and I added one more layer over the existing nosecone and did the split in the middle at the back. I had just enough.
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I measured across the legs on the body and clamped and taped the nosecone at the appropriate places to match.

Nice, now it's just wait a few hours, and then like a kid on Christmas, tear into and see what you got!

I'm always amazed how warm resin gets when it's curing.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I trimmed it after dinner and it came out pretty good. I'm going to have to put another layer on the bottom side. It's a little thin although I put 3 layers of mat on it. I've got it all sanded down and ready for another coat along with the bottom where the split is. I need to build that up about a 1/4" so I can grind the top for rad hose clearance.
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[33fromSD]

Looks great.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Well it took me 2 weeks but I finally have the nosecone fitting good. It's still a little rough and needs some filler to make it look good. I've been doing more stuff on the house and in the yard lately. My wife says I spend too much time on that car thing in the garage. A happy wife is A happy life as they say. So I've done some stuff I've been neglecting. We all compromise on things to make things work out.

[BradC]

Well it took me 2 weeks but I finally have the nosecone fitting good. It's still a little rough and needs some filler to make it look good. I've been doing more stuff on the house and in the yard lately. My wife says I spend too much time on that car thing in the garage. A happy wife is A happy life as they say. So I've done some stuff I've been neglecting. We all compromise on things to make things work out.

Very true!! Congrats on the progress though. I know how rough those panels are.

[Mastertech5]

After doing some property stuff, trim bushes, fix the front door moldings and door frame (my dog wanted out when we left him too long, (wedding), I have been working on the dash. I wanted the speedo and tach behind the steering wheel so placement was critical with the master cylinders there. Getting the headlight switch on the left side and leaving room for an AC outlet was a chore but I managed. I ordered a LED check engine light to put low between the speedo and tach. The high beam indicator is going between them toward the top and the turn signal indicators are going a little to each side of them.
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I still need to get a clock, USB port and mount the HVAC controls and outlets.

[33fromSD]

After doing some property stuff, trim bushes, fix the front door moldings and door frame (my dog wanted out when we left him too long, (wedding), I have been working on the dash. I wanted the speedo and tach behind the steering wheel so placement was critical with the master cylinders there. Getting the headlight switch on the left side and leaving room for an AC outlet was a chore but I managed. I ordered a LED check engine light to put low between the speedo and tach. The high beam indicator is going between them toward the top and the turn signal indicators are going a little to each side of them.
IMG_20230724_205251.jpg IMG_20230726_123508.jpg

I still need to get a clock, USB port and mount the HVAC controls and outlets.

Looks good. I love the old school shifter handle too (ha ,ha).

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Yeah. I couldn't see spending almost $200 dollars on a handle and knob when I don't know exactly what position I want it to end up in.