DMV Vehicle Registration Information Thread

[Xusia]

I'm starting this thread so that people have a place to post information regarding kit registration for their State.

To keep things simple, and information easy to find, I suggest we post ONLY applicable information and keep all information for a particular State in one posting. As new information is found, others can PM the original poster and they can edit their post.

Hopefully it's obviously, but in case it's not, this would mean people should refrain from commenting (again, send updates via PM to the original poster for the State). I love to gab, but there are 50 states, and extraneous information will make finding the relevant information for your State a lot harder.

EDIT: Fixed the number of states. At the time I wrote it I was thinking letters of the alphabet for some reason...

EDIT: Adding a great resource:
http://www.bipac.net/page.asp?conten...olbox&g=SEMAGA

[Xusia]

OREGON

I'll start. Here's what I've found for Oregon:

Process Overview: http://www.dmv.org/or-oregon/custom-built-cars.php
Applicable DMV Forms:

• Assembled, Reconstructed or Replica Vehicle Certification: http://www.odot.state.or.us/forms/dmv/6511.pdf
• Application for Title and Registration: http://www.odot.state.or.us/forms/dmv/226.pdf

It appears the 818 is defined as an "Assembled" vehicle as stated on page 2 of the Assembled, Reconstructed or Replica Vehicle Certification form.

Required Documentation:
Title (salvage or otherwise) or MCO (Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin) for:

• Kit
• Body (Might be in the same document. Since I haven't bought a kit from FFR I don't know exactly what they provide.)
• Engine

Other Requirements:

• VIN Inspection

Process Detail:
<more to come as we learn more>

[DrieStone]

CONNECTICUT

Process Overview: http://www.dmv.org/ct-connecticut/custom-built-cars.php and/or http://www.ct.gov/dmv/cwp/view.asp?a=804&q=244898

Needed for DMV inspection:
- Application for Inspection of Composite Motor Vehicle: http://www.ct.gov/dmv/LIB/dmv/20/29/R-95.pdf
- Application for Registration and Certificate of Title: http://www.dmvct.state.ct.us/H13FORM.HTM
- Two photos of the vehicle and prove of ownership.
- Titles for all vehicles used for major component parts, or one title, plus receipts.*

The car must be inspected before a VIN is assigned. The car needs to be transmitted to the Wethersfield DMV on a flatbed (they say that the wheels must not touch the ground).

If I read this right, all composite vehicles are exempt from emissions testing as long as the car that the engine came from was originally sold before August 1, 2008.


*I'm not sure if one could get away with the FFR title and a receipt for he engine/trans.

[Cobradavid]

TEXAS:

Here's what worked for me when I registered my car in May 2009. Note that things have changed with the passage of the Texas Street Rod and Custom Vehicle Law. I have no experience with registering a car under that law, so what I describe below may or may not work now. In other words, "your results may vary."

When I set up my insurance, I told them that the manufacture's certificate of origin has "1965" as the year. They put that as the year of the car. Also, I used the FFR serial number as the VIN.

With my proof of insurance in hand, I got the car inspected. They inspected it under 1965 rules, so no emissions check - just the $14.50 safety check. They did check to see if my wipers work. I don't know what they would do if I had no wipers. I've heard conflicting reports (wipers required, wipers not required, if wipers are there they have to work), so I played it safe and got the wiper kit.

With the inspection complete, I headed to county tax office. I took the FFR Manufactures Certificate of Origin paper, the FFR receipt for the kit, bill of sale/receipts for the donor car parts, a photo of the car, check book, TXDOT forms 130-U, VTR-301, and VTR-61.
On form 130-U (application for title), I filled in the data:
-VIN - FFR's serial number
-Year - 2009 (not 1965)
-Make - FFR
-Body Style - 2dr roadster (they entered "convertible" into the computer at the tax office)
-Model - roadster

You will have to pay 6.25% sales tax on the price of the kit, so be prepared to shell out some more $$.

I made a pencil tracing of the FFR serial number for VTR-301. I did one of the serial number on the plate FFR sends and also of the serial number on the 2" x 2" frame member that runs under the dash. The pencil tracing on the frame serial number turned out better because it's larger than the one on the metal plate, so I used that for VTR-301.

For VTR-61 - Rebuilt/Assembled affidavit,
-Vehicle info (as above)
-Inspection info (the number of the inspection sticker - it's under the bar code on the sticker)
-Explanation: "assembled vehicle"
-Page 2 Component Part info
-Frame and Body - FFR info
-Engine/Tranny - info from donor parts bill of sale
**Note that this form has to be notarized at bottom. I did it before I went to the tax office, but they might be able to notarize it when you go in.

They did not ask for a weight certification. I think 130-U asks for the weight, so I put down "2400 lbs." I think they only need a weight certification if the weight seems unreasonable compared to the photo of the car. They did ask me for the inspection paperwork (the paper you get that says you passed inspection), but I didn't bring it with me (it was sitting at home in the Cobra). I told them the number I put down on the VTR-61 form was the number of the inspection sticker. They were ok with that, but you should take the paperwork with you.

I took the bill of sale for the donor parts, but I wasn't asked to present it. I just filled in the information on page 2 of VTR-61 with the VIN of the donor vehicle. I also took photos of the engine, transmission, and rear axle serial number tags, but was not asked to show them.

David


If anyone has more recent experience with registering and inspecting a Roadster or Coupe in Texas (especially with the new Street Rod law), please post the process you used. Also, it might be useful to have a Texas GTM owner chime in if the process is different for a car that's not a replica.
David

[Ray]

California:

http://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/home/dm...x=0&submit.y=0

And from SEMA (for all States

http://www.bipac.net/page.asp?conten...olbox&g=SEMAGA

Ray

[Silversmith]

Thanks M8, The SEMAGA site is a real help! Will make the proceedure a breeze no matter what state one is in ! By the way, you look in that red, white & blue hood !!

[blueafro]

TEXAS:

Here's what worked for me when I registered my car in 2009:

When I set up my insurance, I told them that the manufacture's certificate of origin has "1965" as the year. They put that as the year of the car. Also, I used the FFR serial number as the VIN.

Aside from the year of the title and the implications for annual inspection, the remainder of the process should be the same as you experienced.

Regarding title and inspection, below is what I understand from talking to the county title office and to DOT (now DMV) staff at the waiver inspection station in Plano.

Regarding the year of manufacture, using the date from a certificate of origin used to work for replicas (which the 818 won't be) due to wording of the Texas auto title manual, but the state is trying to change the practice and have all constructed cars titled as the actual year of construction. Texas has in the past few years allowed constructed cars to be inspected at special waiver inspection stations so that they would not have to conform to emissions laws of the year of construction even though that year appeared in the title. Adoption by Texas of the SEMA legislation this year should allow replicas to be inspected at normal inspection stations as the year they replicate, regardless of the year on their title and insurance.

For non-replicas, they will still end up titled as the year of construction and would ordinarily be inspected at normal inspection stations as the year of title and construction. In emissions testing counties, they would use OBD-II. It may be possible for a non-replica to be inspected at a waiver inspection station if it uses a non-OBD-II powertrain, but that last point wasn't clear when I last looked into this. I haven't yet seen the post-SEMA-legislation title manual. I need to call the DMV and county people again to check on the current and near-future status.

[bbatts]

Tennessee


Under the bill, kit cars and replica vehicles would have been assigned a certificate of title bearing the same model year designation as the production vehicle it most closely resembles. The bill exempted customs from periodic vehicle inspections and emissions inspections and from a range of standard equipment requirements. The legislation also provided for a one-time registration fee of $25, valid as long as you own the custom vehicle.

Thanks

B Batts
Nashville, TN

[Jeff Kleiner]

INDIANA

I wrote this up in 2008 after building my roadster. A client went through the same process earlier this year titling and registering the roadster I built for him and there have been no significant changes.

__________________________________________________ ____________________________________
I have recently completed titling and registration in the state of Indiana. I got bits and pieces from some guys here as well as other online sources but didn’t find anything that took me through it start to finish. I’ll try to detail the process and my experiences as completely as possible. Please keep in mind that this information is correct to the best of my knowledge as of the date of this post. The state might throw a curve or change up at any time!

I first visited my local BMV License Branch to discuss the process and pick up the beginning paperwork. You can skip that though by going to: http://www.in.gov/bmv/files/AFFIDAVI...INSPECTION.pdf and printing State Form 39530 “Affidavit of Police Officer physical inspection of an Indiana resident’s VEHICLE”. (Ignore the watercraft form unless you’re planning to use your Cobra as a boat!) You now need to have a police officer inspect the car, verify that there is no actual VIN, record serial numbers for major components (specified as engine, transmission and “other”) and complete the form. I rebuilt a donor engine so when I painted the block I made sure to tape off the S/N pad so the stamp would remain legible. Same with the transmission although in my case the officer wasn’t interested in getting under the car to check it; he was satisfied to have the engine number only. If you have a crate engine there won’t be numbers so the officer may note it as N/A.
Now you go to the BMV with the following:
---the completed 39530 form
---your FFR certificate of origin
---your FFR invoice (they must have this to determine sales tax to be paid)
---a picture of the car. When I had the police inspection I was in the midst of bodywork with the body off and didn’t know they required a photo. The officer kind of gave me a wink & nudge and said “If you take them a picture of another car like it no one will be the wiser” so that’s what I did!
---a bill of sale for the “major components” not included with the kit; i.e. engine & transmission. I had the donor title in my name as well as a bill of sale for it. For crate motors & trans take a copy of your receipt.
---$11.50 fee for MVIN title application

At the BMV they will work with you to complete State Form 12907/ T-1A “Application for special identification number for motor vehicle, house car and other self assembled motor vehicles”. This form, along with the documents mentioned above are then sent to the main office in Indianapolis to be processed. About 5-6 weeks later the state will mail State Form T-1N “Permission for motor vehicle identification number” along with your assigned VIN. SUCCESS!!! Now you stamp the issued VIN onto either a number plate affixed to the chassis or directly onto the frame and have the police officer return to complete Form T-1N verifying that the number is in place. Along with the letter you received with the VIN and T-1N form will be a calculation of the sales tax owed (Oh Joy!) at the time of registration. Once you have the signed T-1N you return to the BMV, complete one last form, State form 205 “Application for certificate of title”, pay the sales tax, title and registration fees and you’re done! You will walk out with license plates and a significantly lighter wallet. The actual title will arrive in the mail a few weeks later.

I ultimately didn't have any problems or complications but I did make copies of all completed forms, the FFR issued Certificate of Origin and Invoice before turning them over. I also got everyones name that I dealt with just in case conflicting information or statements arose. All in all it is a pretty painless process, just some paperwork but no real roadblocks; much better and simpler than many states. With the exception of a few counties in the far northwest corner of the state there are no emission tests and at no point is it required that the cars undergo mechanical &/or safety inspections (I have mixed feelings on that).
__________________________________________________ _____________________________________
In the end we have it pretty easy here. The state uses the FFR Certificate of Origin as their guide when assigning a model year and manufacturer. For the roadsters the title comes back with:
Year---1965
Make--- Factory Five Racing
Model---FFR65
Body---Convertible

If they continue with that I'd guess that the when they assign the title for the 818 it will go something like:
Year---2012
Make--- Factory Five Racing
Model---818
Body---Convertible (or for some possible variants "2 door")

Cheers,
Jeff

[RonSchofield]

NOVA SCOTIA, CANADA

http://www.mycoupe.ca/modules/AMS/ar...php?storyid=30

[Arrowhead]

New York

http://www.nydmv.state.ny.us/forms/vs100.pdf

[Rusty_S85]

TEXAS:



Aside from the year of the title and the implications for annual inspection, the remainder of the process should be the same as you experienced.

Regarding title and inspection, below is what I understand from talking to the county title office and to DOT (now DMV) staff at the waiver inspection station in Plano.

Regarding the year of manufacture, using the date from a certificate of origin used to work for replicas (which the 818 won't be) due to wording of the Texas auto title manual, but the state is trying to change the practice and have all constructed cars titled as the actual year of construction. Texas has in the past few years allowed constructed cars to be inspected at special waiver inspection stations so that they would not have to conform to emissions laws of the year of construction even though that year appeared in the title. Adoption by Texas of the SEMA legislation this year should allow replicas to be inspected at normal inspection stations as the year they replicate, regardless of the year on their title and insurance.

For non-replicas, they will still end up titled as the year of construction and would ordinarily be inspected at normal inspection stations as the year of title and construction. In emissions testing counties, they would use OBD-II. It may be possible for a non-replica to be inspected at a waiver inspection station if it uses a non-OBD-II powertrain, but that last point wasn't clear when I last looked into this. I haven't yet seen the post-SEMA-legislation title manual. I need to call the DMV and county people again to check on the current and near-future status.

If the vehicle is titled as a 2011 it would have to have OBD II preferably with the CAN upgrade but that isnt a deal breaker CAN is backwards compatible with the non CAN upgraded OBD II. You can get away with no OBD II on 1996 and newer vehicles if the GVW is 8,000 lbs or higher it gives you the option for the heavy duty OBD test to select "No OBD II Port Found" but the non heavy duty OBD tests (vehicles under 8,000 lbs) there is no option to say no OBD II port so if your vehicle has to under go 2009 as the year it cant be tested since theres no OBD port and the vehicle fails emission test automatically. You cant do a ASM test or a TSI test on these vehicles cause its titled as newer than 1996 and all cars after 1996 came with OBD II with the exception of a few Volvo`s up to 1998 that didnt have OBD ports and were able to be tested under ASM.

The only way you could get a newer car inspected would be to go to the DMV station where they perform waiver tests and let them work on it. Aside from that theres nothing the inspection shops can do, I doubt even the waiver shop would over look the lack of an OBD II port on a newly constructed vehicle. Like wise make sure you have a good gas cap also, cars older than 2 years old and newer than 25 years old has to pass a gas cap check as well as a safety and emission test.

On the topic of windshield wipers, in Texas they are part of the requirement. You have to have wipers cause that is part of the safety inspection is working wipers if they dont work the vehicle automatically fails the safety portion of the emission/safety test and therefore fails the test over all.

The things that are checked for safety in Texas are as follows
1. Windshield
2. Wipers
3. Brake lights
4. Turn signals front and rear including indicators
5. license plate light
6. window tint (can not go below the AS1 line on windshield and cant be higher than 25% tint on the front side windows)
7. headlights and high beam indicator
8. seat belts
9. parking brake
10. service brakes
11. steering
12. underhood hydraulic systems
13. atleast 1 rear view mirror

If any of the above items are either mission or fails the inspection fails in the state. The window tint is believed to change for the 2012 year in texas and be no less than 30% tint but we havent been told yet if that is true or not.

Also if you want to avoid the whole OBD II issue if you can slip a diesel engine into the kit then your good to go cause in Texas diesel vehicles are safety only not emission and safety. But dont count on it being like that for ever, some parts of California tests diesels emission wise through a exhaust smoke test.

[blueafro]

Texas:

On the topic of windshield wipers, in texas they are part of the requirement. You have to have wipers cause that is part of the safety inspection is working wipers if they dont work the vehicle automatically fails the safety portion of the emission/safety test and therefore fails the test over all.

The things that are checked for safety in texas are as follows
1. Windshield
2. Wipers
...

If a car has a windshield, it must have wipers to pass a Texas inspection, but a windshield does not appear to be required. The Texas Transportation Code (linked below) states a requirement for wipers, but the DPS appears to interpret that as only applying to cars with windshields, so a windshieldless version of the 818 may be inspectable in Texas (OBD-II or, as you mention, diesel permitting).

Unless the criteria are changing again without the websites being kept up to date (it wouldn't be the first time), this is the Texas list of items of inspection for passenger cars:

1. Horn
2. Windshield Wipers
3. Mirror
4. Steering
5. Seat Belts
6. Brakes (system) (Parking - beginning with 1960 models)
7. Tires
8. Wheel Assembly
9. Exhaust System
10. Exhaust Emission System (beginning with 1968 models)
11. Beam Indicator (beginning with 1948 models)
12. Tail Lamps (2); (1) if 1959 model or earlier
13. Stop Lamps (2); (1) if 1959 model or earlier
14. License Plate Lamp (1)
15. Rear Red Reflectors (2)
16. Turn Signal Lamps (beginning with 1960 models)
17. Head Lamps (2)
18. Motor, Serial, or Vehicle Identification Number
19. 1988 & newer - inspect for window tinting or coating
20. Gas caps on vehicles 2-24 model years old.

Specifically, the windshield wiper criteria mention

Every motor vehicle with a windshield must be equipped with a windshield wiper or wipers.

This appears to be a direct quote from the insection procedures manual.

The Items of inspection FAQ specifically states

The windshield is NOT an item of inspection.

It does then go on to mention that the windshield must be smooth so the wiper neither tears nor loses contact, so it appears that the windshield is essentially inspected for smoothness under the aegis of the wipers. It never, however, mentions that a windshield is required.

The Texas Transportation Code, Title 7, Subtitle C, Chapter 547.603 does mention a wiper requirement:

Sec. 547.603. WINDSHIELD WIPERS REQUIRED. A motor vehicle shall be equipped with a device that is operated or controlled by the operator of the vehicle and that cleans moisture from the windshield.

It makes no mention of the situation if a windshield is not present. Based on the DPS sites linked above, it appears the DPS interprets this section as applying only to vehicles with windshields. Chapter 547 (Vehicle Equipement) includes other restrictions on windshields (must be safety glass, restrictions on tint, etc.) but so far as I can find never mentions that a windshield is required, except as implied by the requirement to be able to wipe one, and Chapter 502 (linked below) specifically mentions vehicles without windshields.

The Rules and Regulations Manual for Operation of Official Vehicle Inspection Stations makes explicit mention of how to provide the inspection certificate for vehicles without a windshield.

20.03 Motor Vehicles Without Windshields (Cars, Trucks, Buses, and School Buses). If the motor vehicle is not equipped with a windshield, the certificate will be completed on the reverse side and given to the operator of the vehicle. Instruct owner or operator to keep the certificate in their possession and present it on demand. All inspection stations and certified inspectors are instructed to remove and reverse the face paper and adhere it to the certificate so that it cannot be used again for some other vehicle

The Texas Motor Vehicle Registration Manual mentions applying for a license plate sticker for registration:

Vehicles without a windshield that display multi-year license plates are issued a license plate sticker that shall be affixed to the rear license plate.

That manual also quotes Texas Transportation Code, Title 7, Subtitle A, Chapter 502.180(d):

If the vehicle does not have a windshield, the owner, when applying for registration or renewal of registration, shall notify the department, and the department shall issue a distinctive device for attachment to the rear license plate of the vehicle.

Never having tried to register or to have a car inspected in this state without a windshield, I have no idea whether or not it works, but I throw out the above as food for thought for those who are considering it.

[Rusty_S85]

blueafro, windshields are required in the state of texas. If you dont have a windshield you fail. If you have a windshield you have to have wipers so all cars have to have wipers.

By law if a car comes in without a windshield it fails for safety, I dont know why the post you made from Txdot is stating that when Txdot states you have to have a windshield among other things. Now as far as the windshield goes it can be cracked badly but long as it doesnt interfer with the drivers vision ahead it passes. I have a crack from top to bottom of my windshield and it passes because the crack even though you can snag your finger nail on doesnt obstruct the passenger or drivers view ahead.

1988 and newer inspect window tint? That must not be from TxDot cause TxDot would never say something like that. You check all vehicles that come in for windot tint if you dont you can possibly lose your job for 6 months to a year cause DPS locks you out from doing inspections.

As far as the motor serial number goes thats not a check on the list, it is mentioned but inspectors do a visual inspection and serial numbers on engines are not visable and require removal of parts which is forbidden to do unless you are performing a repair.

For instance if you suspect vehicle A is missing a lug nut which would make it fail on the safety inspection if it has hub caps hiding the lug nuts you can not remove them because you are only doing a visual inspection. Now if you believe that the car is missing a lug nut and you have good reason to then you can remove said hub cap. For instance you suspect vehicle B is missing a lug nut but the suspected wheel has a hubcap hiding the lug nuts. Your suspect it to be missing a lug because the other three wheels are missing hub caps and this is the only one with a hub cap. Now this is enough cause to get hands on but most inspectors dont mess with this because its too hard to defend your stand point that you suspected the vehicle had a missing lug nut. A missing lug nut wont cause any handling difference so theres no real way to suspect it unless as stated above with vehicle B.



I just checked the rules and regulation guide you posted, that is from 2005. It still talks about 20% tint is the lowest you can go, thats not correct cause its 25% now. Like wise the class for the license stated that windshields are required to be there but their not inspected for condition, just if you can view forward. I would have to check our updated rules and regulation guide when I go in on monday and I can say for sure if it says the same thing about the windshield but I can say we fail cars if they dont have some form of wipers or windshield and have yet to get repermanded for failing vehicles that should have passed.

[blueafro]

blueafro, windshields are required in the state of texas.

Rusty,

What I linked was the latest available documentation from the state's public websites, in which I see specific mention in both the inspection and registration manuals of how to treat vehicles without windshields.

Since you are in the inspection business, you may have later documentation than the state has gotten around to publishing (and if the rules have changed without the state updating their website, it wouldn't be the first time). If so, it would be very valuable to this community and to the kit car community in general if you could publish the updated information. Even excerpts would be helpful.

1988 and newer inspect window tint? That must not be from TxDot cause TxDot would never say something like that.

As the posted link resolves, and the attribution of the quote states, it comes directly from the Texas DPS. Why DPS and DoT would give out different information I don't know, but I'm not terribly surprised. DPS claims inspections are under their purview. Does the DoT claim oversight also? (Again, I wouldn't be surprised if they did.)

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty,

What I linked was the latest available documentation from the state's public websites, in which I see specific mention in both the inspection and registration manuals of how to treat vehicles without windshields.

Since you are in the inspection business, you may have later documentation than the state has gotten around to publishing (and if the rules have changed without the state updating their website, it wouldn't be the first time). If so, it would be very valuable to this community and to the kit car community in general if you could publish the updated information. Even excerpts would be helpful.



As the posted link resolves, and the attribution of the quote states, it comes directly from the Texas DPS. Why DPS and DoT would give out different information I don't know, but I'm not terribly surprised. DPS claims inspections are under their purview. Does the DoT claim oversight also? (Again, I wouldn't be surprised if they did.)

I understand, I am not lashing out from the source you posted. I am just stating that it is old cause god knows the state doesnt update their website. I dont know what date our manual is from I have to find out on monday when I go in but I will say this the manual is just a tips sheet type thing. If you are still unsure about what is stated in the book cause you dont think said item fits you contact DPS and they will tell you if you may proceed or not.

For instance the state says we are to fail cars with window tint darker than 25% on the front side windows. But if you are a private investigator or a police officer in the state of texas if you go to the DPS you can get a waiver when shown at any inspection station and the window tint aspect is over looked.

On the windshield part I did some thinking on it and I think the reason its worded like it is is to prevent failiure of vintage cars. There were some cars in the very early 1900`s that did not have windshields and these cars would fail under the law so I think its possible the law was written the way it was to prevent that from happening.

Another example would be that we had a dune buggy come in, it was built on a 1983 VW chassis meaning it is a 1983 VW which makes it a safety only inspection. The only form of windshield he had was a small motorcycle like flat piece of plexiglass with no wipers. We contacted DPS since our manual didnt provide enough information to sastify us to pass it through. We were told that wipers were not required on the vehicle in question cause it was not a fully enclosed car it was basically a street legal go kart.

Another example of how the "rules" can be bent is in this case, I failed a vehicle because it had rear end damage the damage resulted in the Toyota Camery having its driverside tail light pushed forward and behind the lip of the trunk. The lens wasnt broken no white light was showing so it passed. But what caused me to fail it was that lens was not visable directly behind the vehicle meaning a car following behind only saw one tail light and brake light which following the book means it fails even though it passed for working condition.

The best was I could describe it in Texas is it is at the descrition of the person performing the inspection. If the inspector thinks something isnt safe he can fail it if it really isnt safe. But you have to be careful cause failing a car for something you think isnt safe but its not that big of a safety concern you could get in trouble instead.

For me if a kit car were to come to the shop I would be alittle more relaxed on my inspection but I will not pass it if something seems un safe about it. If the brakes didnt seem enough to me I would be inclined to fail it on the assumption that the brakes are not that good. We have a speed we should run and a distance the vehicle should stop in to pass. I will be honest and admit I dont follow that rule. I run the car up to speed and apply the brakes and if they feel like they are grabbing good and not requiring too much effort I pass the brakes if I feel comfortable with them.

As I tell the regular customers this is nothing but a numbers game, they dont want us to do two ASM tests back to back even though we dont have control over which vehicles come and in what order. Then they want us to fail cars they dont like us telling customers before hand that their car will fail safety wise or emission wise and let them fix it first they want us to fail the vehicle and take their money and tell them to fix it and come back in 15 days.

To cut this short though I will make a note of what sections to check in the latest hand guide and I will post what I find either monday night or tuesday night.

[Xusia]

From another thread...

Registering the 818 might be an interesting affair, and i'm sure the other kits (roadster, GTM, Etc.) can chime in here as well.

Utah has their own page on the DMV website for this. making it fairly simple.

http://dmv.utah.gov/vehicles-service...:kits&catid=39
As per the website:

All the components are purchased in a kit similar to a model car (including the frame). The applicant will need to provide to the DMV; this may require more than one visit:
The "Manufacturer's Statement of Origin" (MSO) for all components, listing a 17-digit conforming Vehicle Identification Number (VIN),
A completed Form TC-569A "Ownership Statement", containing information pertaining to the construction of the vehicle, where or from whom all the components were obtained, and a completed Form TC-656 "Application For Utah Title" and all original sales receipts,
Picture of the completed vehicle or bring the vehicle to a DMV office for a visual inspection, and
Safety and emission test certification.
The vehicle must be inspected by a peace officer or by the DMV-CSR prior to titling. On the title, the make of the vehicle will reflect the make on the MSO, year will be the year of completion and the model will be "replica." The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) listed on Form TC-656 "Application For Utah Title" will be the number on the chassis MSO, if that number is a 17-digit conforming number issued by the manufacturer.


FFR has already Stated they will be providing us with an MSO (Manufacturer's Statement of Origin), and therefore all we'd need left is:
proof of where we acquired the other parts. be it a receipt from a salvage yard, a title for another vehicle, etc.
a Picture of the completed vehicle. (a day i believe many of us will sit back, sigh, and wonder what we forgot LOL).
TRAILER the vehicle to an Emissions/Inspection station to be inspected.
and finally Trailer it again to a DMV office with all the above paperwork items, and receive your Plates, title, etc.


Those in Utah who have previously registered Kit cars, PLEASE respond here with any information or suggestions to those looking to Register Their Kit in Utah.

[mrlee727]

Hi -
I'm considering ordering a Type 65 Coupe but before committing I wanted to research the registration and insurance process for this car in New Jersey. Is there anyone who lives in NJ that has successfully Registered and insured their FFR car?

Any help or info is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Lee

[metalmaker12]

R.I
I have paid my taxes for my donor, parts and my 818 kit to the state of R.I, once built I have to get it inspected at the DMV and than they issue me a vin from the ffr sticker of origin.I than have to make my insurance active to finish registration. In R.I and most states, if you buy a donor you are required to pay taxes on it 1 month and 20 days to not incure penalty. This also goes for major parts and the kit. If you psid the taxes on the parts, kit or donor you will need receipts to prove yo the dept of taxation. The DMV did not tell me this, my friend who owns a ffr33 did. If you have any questions pm me

Ps. Getting my kit alot sooner, I might be one of the first done and maybe the first legit 818 on the road.

I got an insurance quote also, like 250-300 per yr

[Xusia]

What is this "tax" you speak of??



(no sales tax in Oregon!)

[JeffS]

Massachusetts

There are basically two different inspections you need to satisfy for Massachusetts... the SALVAGE inspection and the SAFETY/EMISSIONS inspection.

The purpose of the salvage inspection is for you to prove that you have not used any stolen parts in your build. To do this, you need an iron-clad paper trail for every part. If you have a clean title donor, then your job is pretty easy since everything to build your car comes from Factory Five (as proved by the shipping list) or from the donor. If you have a salvage title car that has been in an accident, then there may be some unusable parts from the donor. The inspector will refer to the insurance adjuster's appraisal report to determine if a particular part is usable. The appraisal report is the undisputed authority... if the report says a particular part is damaged (whether it is or not), then you need to buy a new one from a legal source to satisfy the inspector. Ebay and craigslist are not your friends when it comes to making the inspector happy. You can buy parts from salvage yards or internet sources, but those businesses must have the proper licenses, and must provide a copy of the title showing the VIN number of the vehicle that each part was sourced from. This is routine procedure for legitimate suppliers dealing with Massachusetts repair shops.

Also... There is no arguing with the inspector. If he finds missing paperwork, you will need to go back, obtain whatever he is looking for , and return next week to try again. You don't want him to remember you as the guy with the bad attitude. Try to remember that the point of all this is to make the streets safer for everybody's cars by reducing the market for stolen parts. If you keep telling yourself that the program is actually accomplishing that goal it might make the paperwork, waiting, and frustration a little easier to deal with. Or maybe not.

The second inspection is the safety and emissions inspection. The emissions inspection has some specific and important details which you should know before starting your build. In particular, your car must meet the guidelines of the EPA "Kit Car Policy". The basic idea is that if you build a car, it needs to be a complete "approved" drivetrain from the engine to the wheels so that EPA knows the miles-per-gallon performance will be close to that of the donor car. If the donor drivetrain is newer than 1996 [but see 60.02(3)(c)(4) below], then the OBDII connector and ECU must be stock from the original donor as well. The check engine light needs to function properly, and the "EPA approved" label from under the hood of the donor needs to be transferred to the new car. The new car will require yearly emissions tests through the OBDII connector at your local repair shop or gas station just like any other car in Massachusetts.

The charcoal canister, O2 sensor(s), and catalytic converter(s) need to be new (with receipts of course). The fuel filler needs the restricter that allows only unleaded fuel, and you need a sticker near the gas cap stating that only unleaded fuels be used.

There is some information on the MassDOT website, and links to the EPA "Kit Car Policy" but you may want to get in touch with the closest DVM "Motorist Assistance Center" and give them a call to review the above information before you start your build.

To limit my frustration, I will be looking for a clean title bone stock unmolested donor and get my FFR-818 titled and inspected with no modifications to the stock drivetrain (at least to start with).

Added on August 11, 2013

I've added a second post below with references to the pertinent Mass laws...

[snowphun]

The new car will require yearly emissions tests through the ODBII connector at your local repair shop or gas station just like any other car in Massachusetts.

The charcoal canister, O2 sensor(s), and catalytic converter(s) need to be new (with receipts of course). The fuel filler needs the restricter that allows only unleaded fuel, and you need a sticker near the gas cap stating that only unleaded fuels be used.

The requirement for new emissions gear is news to me, that will get pretty expensive. And the early WRXs have three cats, one of which can't exist in the 818 setup so that seems like a difficult hurdle.

Emissions is checked biennially in MA, not annually.

[JeffS]

Massachusetts

Here are some specific links to things I mentioned in my earlier post:


For the salvage inspection, you can review the following webpage at the Massachusetts RMV website:
http://www.massrmv.com/rmv/titles/11salinsp.htm


The safety/emissions test is governed by Massachusetts law 310 CMR 60 "Air Pollution Control for Mobile Sources"

Here's the link:
http://www.mass.gov/dep/service/regu...s/310cmr60.pdf

Edit on 02/06/2014: Sorry.... mass.gov moved the file to this new URL:
http://www.mass.gov/eea/docs/dep/ser...s/310cmr60.pdf


If you don't want to read all 61 pages, I can summarize...

The cover page is a disclaimer stating that the web document is "unofficial" and may be out of date.

Section 60.02(3)(c)(4) states that any gasoline powered car built before 1996 or at least 15 model years old is exempt from emissions testing. Since we are in model year 2013, all 1998 and older donor cars would be exempt from emissions testing. Annual safety inspections would still be required.

Section 60.02(5)(b) talks about the first inspection for a kit car. The inspection is conducted according to section 60.02(12). If the donor vehicle required annual OBD emissions tests then so does the kit car.

Section 60.02(8) describes which vehicles require an On-Board Diagnostic Test. This section of the law states that model years 1996 or newer require OBD testing, but using the 15 year rule from 60.02(3)(c)(4) in this model year of 2013, we should actually exempt 1996, 1997, and 1998 model years from OBD testing.

60.02(12) talks about what is needed for a kit car visual emissions inspection. Here's the actual text of the law:

60.02(12)(c) Kit Vehicle Visual Test.
A kit vehicle shall be subject to a visual test to verify compliance with the following emissions requirements; and kit vehicle registrants shall supply any documentation required by the inspector, the Department, or the registry:
1. The components of the drivetrain (e.g., engine, transmission, and differential) shall be exclusively or substantially used or rebuilt. Regardless of the combination of new and used components, the engine shall be used, or used and rebuilt. The engine block and cylinder head(s) shall be used; other components of the engine may be new. For purposes of 310 CMR 60.02(12)(c), “used” means the component has been in a vehicle that has been titled to an ultimate purchaser. For purposes of 310 CMR 60.02(12)(c), a
“rebuilt component” is defined as a used component which has been refurbished with new or other used parts;
2. Kit vehicles shall have the same transmission configuration (i.e., manual, automatic,semi-automatic, and number of forward gears) as the originally certified configuration, and have an N/V ratio (speed of vehicle in miles per hour/speed of engine in revolutions per minute) which matches the N/V ratio of the originally certified configuration within 3% in every gear;
3. All emissions-related components and settings shall conform in all material respects to those of one previously certified configuration (all emissions-related components shall match or be traceable to one previously certified configuration);
4. All catalytic converters, oxygen sensors, and charcoal canisters shall be new, original equipment parts, or replacement parts equivalent to the original equipment parts;
5. If the originally certified configuration required unleaded fuel, then the vehicles shall have fuel filler neck restrictors and unleaded fuel labels which meet the requirements of 40 CFR 80.24;
6. The vehicle weight of the kit configuration can be no more than 500 pounds greater than the weight of the originally certified configuration; and
7. Each vehicle and its accompanying documentation shall be clearly labeled as to the make, model year, chassis year, engine year, engine family, subfamily, and tune-up specifications represented by the originally certified vehicle.

<end of snipit>

[Rasmus]

Nevada

[bigAl]

I have been working on registering my exocar in California under SB-100, which exempts the vehicle from most emissions requirements and doesn't require the bi-annual smog check.
So far I have cleared the CHP inspection (primarily for stolen parts) and the Brake and Light inspection. I had my B.A.R. visit on Weds and was told I would have a clearance under SB-100 for emissions (I had obtained a sequence number in December) but would still need to have a WINDSHIELD with WIPERS and FENDERS at least to prevent stone throw to the rear. This last requirement implies a big mud flap on the rears would probably be enough. The BAR referees are polite and informed but they are no longer going to let certain things slip through - so, if you are hoping to get by without the windshield on your 818, I would think again. From the discussion, they said that the "glass" might not need a DOT AS-1 marking on it but documentation for the material would be needed. To me this means NO Lexan or Plexi because you can not get suitable "safety glazing" documentation for those materials in this application. I will be going for a flat glass with the AS-1 in the corner because I want to get through this while I am not too old to enjoy this car.
If any of the CA guys wants to contact me by PM, please feel free.

[wleehendrick]

If any of the CA guys wants to contact me by PM, please feel free.

Hi Al, Thanks for the info; my 818 is under construction and I'll be pursuing my SB100 soon. It's an S, so windshield is no problem, but it sounds like I need to plan on wiper(s). I know roadsters have gotten by without them in the past, but it sounds like they're getting picky. Any other issues you see, or should an S with wipers be good to go?

Thanks,

Lee

[bigAl]

The BAR guys told me it had to have two motorized wipers. There are other emissions issues like a closed PCV system, etc.

[wleehendrick]

Thanks Al... Emissions requirements are well documented under SB100, as a SCV with no resemblance to a previously produced vehicle, 1960 SMOG is all I should have to meet, like you. It's all the other safety items that seem to be inconsistently enforced. Thanks for the heads-up, I guess I'll plan on two wipers, which I didn't get from my donor. I hope FFR comes out with a wiper kit soon, so I don't have to fab something ugly.

[bigAl]

http://www.pacificwesterndesign.com/Mighty/index.htm
This place has some compact basic wiper units. I will be using these on my flat windshield. There are certainly other options available. I have a PDF file of the informative document given to me by the BAR referee. It is too big to attach here but if you want it, PM me with an e-mail address.

[geoben427]

JeffS,
Thanks for all the information.