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Starter Opinions
Hey Guys,
With the latest starter issues I'm having, I'm thinking instead of simply replacing, going for something a little better.
With my Mendy Stage 2 purchase they provided a Premier Gear PG-6492, look like a run of the mill early Chevy starter.
Anyone have any experience with a Powermaster XS Torque Starters 9509?
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Senior Member
FWIW…
I used a Powermaster XS Torque on my big block powered 35 FFR truck. Worked fine initially, then would only ‘click’ when hot but always cold started just fine.
After some thinking, I installed a 40 amp cube relay right at the starter as my conclusion was the small diameter wire included in the FFR kit couldn’t handle the “kick in” current required by the solenoid on this starter.
Must have been right because she never missed a hot start afterwards in the following year plus I owned it.
Once again with an 88 mm Turbo, Big Block Chevy powered, ‘35 Hot Rod Pickup
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Originally Posted by
Pat Landymore
FWIW…
I used a Powermaster XS Torque on my big block powered 35 FFR truck. Worked fine initially, then would only ‘click’ when hot but always cold started just fine.
After some thinking, I installed a 40 amp cube relay right at the starter as my conclusion was the small diameter wire included in the FFR kit couldn’t handle the “kick in” current required by the solenoid on this starter.
Must have been right because she never missed a hot start afterwards in the following year plus I owned it.
Thanks for the feedback!!!
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One of the things that was talked about quite a bit in the early days of the GTM was the fact that the battery and the engine are pretty far from each other, and the frame really does not provide that great of a conductor. To that end, a lot of people ended up putting a large copper wire for both the positive AND the negative runs to the starter. On the FFR PDG GTM we run the negative lead direct from the battery to a post right next to the dry sump pump, or where the A/C pump is on some GTMs. We use 3-0 wire. This gives us a nice place to run various chassis grounded items to that stay in the car when the engine is removed. Then we run a large cable from this post to the engine block. Knock on wood, but we have never had any issues with having enough current at the starter by doing it this way. I guess what I am getting at is that no starter will work properly if it does not get the amount of power it should have or needs.
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