# 1115 resurrection

[Just 1 More]

I asked him if I used a panhard bar to keep things straight would be ok and he said no. Only use one on parallel 4 bar links. I can always change them out later.

I'll let you know how it handles and feels .. Like I said, My Camaro is awesome with the triangulated 4 link and "R" joints at every connection, not sure why the '33 would be any different

[Just 1 More]

Fired the engine last night, which opened up a bunch of cans of worms. When cranking it sounds like the starter and flywheel and torque converter don't like each other. Something isn't fastened correctly or not at all. It's not getting good fuel even though I added one of them expensive Edelbrock Performer RPM Street Fuel Pumps 1721, so I need to dig in to the supply line and probably just redo it all with 3/8" tubing and -6AN fittings. It ran like absolute crap for the few minutes that I let it run. Pretty sure the carb has issues even though I did tear it apart, blow all the passages with carb clean and new gaskets. Set the idle air screws to 1.5 turns out to start with which is where i've always set them and never had an issue. It was late, i was frustrated so I shut it down, closed up the garage and said "F" it. I feel like I need to pull the engine, get it on a run stand or engine dyno and get it all dialed in then put it back in the car, I think that'll be the plan moving forward. I'm just going to chill and watch football today and forget about it for a while.

[RoadRacer]

We've all had those days. It could be something really small!

[33fromSD]

Fired the engine last night, which opened up a bunch of cans of worms. When cranking it sounds like the starter and flywheel and torque converter don't like each other. Something isn't fastened correctly or not at all. It's not getting good fuel even though I added one of them expensive Edelbrock Performer RPM Street Fuel Pumps 1721, so I need to dig in to the supply line and probably just redo it all with 3/8" tubing and -6AN fittings. It ran like absolute crap for the few minutes that I let it run. Pretty sure the carb has issues even though I did tear it apart, blow all the passages with carb clean and new gaskets. Set the idle air screws to 1.5 turns out to start with which is where i've always set them and never had an issue. It was late, i was frustrated so I shut it down, closed up the garage and said "F" it. I feel like I need to pull the engine, get it on a run stand or engine dyno and get it all dialed in then put it back in the car, I think that'll be the plan moving forward. I'm just going to chill and watch football today and forget about it for a while.

Maybe something is hitting the flex plate, I know that makes the most gawd-awful sound.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

Maybe something is hitting the flex plate, I know that makes the most gawd-awful sound.

Jim

Definitely sounds like it. I'll get back out there and start looking one evening this week.

[RoadRacer]

Yeah it sure make you pay attention if you forget to align the starter motor.. or worse, like I did once.. connect the battery backwards. That was not fun.

[Just 1 More]

Yeah it sure make you pay attention if you forget to align the starter motor.. or worse, like I did once.. connect the battery backwards. That was not fun.

LOL... This is all the work of the previous owner so i'm learning as I go what is and isn't right. A friend is coming saturday morning to help get the body off and then i'll start re-doing the fuel and electrical. I have to keep reminding myself I bought an unfinished kit someone else started.

[33fromSD]

LOL... This is all the work of the previous owner so i'm learning as I go what is and isn't right. A friend is coming saturday morning to help get the body off and then i'll start re-doing the fuel and electrical. I have to keep reminding myself I bought an unfinished kit someone else started.

My guess is this is one of the reasons the PO gave up on the build and sold it among others. If you look at all the unfinished kit cars people sell, the main reasons for selling them are they ran out of money, ran out of time, life changing event (divorce, illness/death in family), or ran out of skills.

Folks love to buy kit cars thinking its a giant lego set which "just goes together" until they get it and start putting them together and quickly run into issues that are outside their skill or comfort level or they didn't realize modification / some fabrication is required and they get over-whelmed, then the car gets parked for a while collecting dust, then finally they give up after they realize they've lost the passion or faced reality that they will never finish it due to skill level.

A neighbor of mine wanted to buy a kit car a couple years back until he watched my build and learned that it's not just boxes of parts you get & assemble and you have a car, there is a lot more to it. He was overwhelmed the couple times he helped me and it wasn't even his car.

You're doing it the right way by going back and checking over everything.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

Placed my order for front & rear fenders thru http://www.mpdfiberbodywerx.com/

[Just 1 More]

A friend came by this morning to help get the body off. Now I can tackle all the little stuff like A/C, wiring, fuel lines, etc...

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Swapped out the 670 street avenger carb and put my old Merlin Hardcore Holley 870 on and it ran so much better. But, the 870 has been sitting around a couple years and needs a good gasket kit, leaking from a couple spots and a bad vacuum leak.. But it runs
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[Just 1 More]

And got the Ridetech lower links in
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[33fromSD]

870 cfm, wow, that's a beast!!

Jim

[Just 1 More]

870 cfm, wow, that's a beast!!

Jim

Probably a lot more than the little 383 needs but damn if it didn't run much better then that other 670 that was on it. I'm sure I could have the 670 gone through and fixed.. probably should.

[Mastertech5]

Looks like a choke could be added.

[RoadRacer]

Whatever works! I tried rebuilding a true holley but it never did work well.. bought a new Brawler 650 DP and it worked out of the box, and hasn't been touched since.

I suspect the previous owner had done some 'mods' to the holley that the rebuild couldn't fix.. best using it as shelf art

[Mastertech5]

Holleys have many tuneable features that are best dialed in on an engine dynomometer. Jet size, air bleed size, accelerator pump squirter size, power valve opening vacuum rating and others. If it is not tuned close to what the engine needs it will not run properly or poorly at various loads and rpms. Warped metering blocks are common because of overtightening of the float bowl screws.

[33fromSD]

I have rebuilt a lot of carbs overs the years (Eblebrocks, Autolites, carters) both 2bbl & 4bbl without any issues. I "attempted" to rebuild a 650 4bbl a couple years back on my 70 Challenger before going to the Holley Snipper EFI system and I failed miserably.

To me, anyone who can successfully rebuilds & properly tune a Holley 4bbl is a rockstar in my book. Very frustrating carb to work with in my opinion.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

Reminds me of the old days rebuilding carbs on my mom's kitchen table, That woman was a saint for putting up with me. Anyway, tore in to the carb again, this time being very thorough and didn't spare the carb cleaner. I did see some "stuff" come out of a couple ports so there was definitely dirt in the carb passages.
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I redid all the fuel lines starting at the tank. Used a 3/8 compression to -6an on the pick up tube, 3/8 aluminum tubing out, down and along the frame rail, new -6an fuel filter and the black ptfe lined braid to the fuel pump, Black ptfe braid to the carb and another inline filter at the carb feed.
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[Just 1 More]

My carb rebuild did the trick, fired up and actually ran pretty good. Still need to do some adjusting and tuning but i'm a lot closer, and happier, than I was last week.
See if this works, do I copy the URL? or "imbed" or is this right?

https://youtu.be/2LDFp_39ebE

[33fromSD]

My carb rebuild did the trick, fired up and actually ran pretty good. Still need to do some adjusting and tuning but i'm a lot closer, and happier, than I was last week.
See if this works, do I copy the URL? or "imbed" or is this right?

https://youtu.be/2LDFp_39ebE

Worked fine. Sounds like it has a pretty nice cam in it.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

Worked fine. Sounds like it has a pretty nice cam in it.

Jim

Howards HRS-CL110245-10 Advertised duration 278/284, Lift .500/.510 Duration at 050 inch Lift: 225 int./231 exh.

[33fromSD]

Nice. Sounds great

Jim

[Just 1 More]

What are the odds??? I mean seriously???
I want to do duel roll bars instead of the single all the way across that FFR supplies with the kit so, I reached out to a local race chassis shop and he didn't have the correct die to bend what I need so I put a message out to some friends and got a response of "have 2 in the shop leftover from my cage build, come get them" WHAAAAAAAAAAAT??????
I have awesome friends
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[Just 1 More]

This cute little thing showed up today
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[FF33rod]

What are the odds??? I mean seriously???
I want to do duel roll bars instead of the single all the way across that FFR supplies with the kit so, I reached out to a local race chassis shop and he didn't have the correct die to bend what I need so I put a message out to some friends and got a response of "have 2 in the shop leftover from my cage build, come get them" WHAAAAAAAAAAAT??????
I have awesome friends
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Bonus!!! Does he have 2 more? I wanted to do this but couldn't find anyone to do it at a reasonable price so didn't put in anything...

Steve

[progmgr1]

I also prefer the look of dual roll hoops in place of a single roll hoop. I got mine from a Roadster builder. The issue was "how do I mount these to my Hot Rod chassis"? The primary purpose of mine are to act as head rest supports, so they needed to be centered behind the seats. In order to have the hoops removeable (so they can be installed through the waterfall), I built up a structure with steel tube and angle that I had on hand. This design gives pretty good lateral support, but not so great in a fore-aft direction. Hopefully I never have to test their load capability.

Two photos attached. Both taken during fabrication. Sorry, photos of final result missing(?).

Keith HR #894

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[Just 1 More]

nothing exciting, just made my fuel vapor system yesterday. The check valve fitting goes to the vapor cannister then to an old fuel filter that has a sintered bronze filter in it.
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[FF33rod]

Regarding the check valve, how does that work? Maybe I don't understand but doesn't the vent need to let air both in and out? In as the tank drains, out to help with to evacuate air when filling?

Steve

[progmgr1]

If it's like my fuel tank, the check valve is there to stop leaks when the tank is upside down - like after a collision. As long as the valve is upright the ball is away from the seat allowing air to flow in either direction.

Keith HR #894

[Just 1 More]

If it's like my fuel tank, the check valve is there to stop leaks when the tank is upside down - like after a collision. As long as the valve is upright the ball is away from the seat allowing air to flow in either direction.

Keith HR #894

Exactly as Keith says, Thanks Keith, you beat me to it.

[narly1]

If it's like my fuel tank, the check valve is there to stop leaks when the tank is upside down - like after a collision. As long as the valve is upright the ball is away from the seat allowing air to flow in either direction.

Keith HR #894

My understanding is a bit different.

I believe the ball is free to move up and down between 2 seats, not 1. In the normal (rubber on the road) attitude, the mass of the ball has it resting on the lower seat. If there is pressure build-up in the tank it lifts (forces?) the ball away from the seat and allows it to vent. Otherwise the ball keeps the tank closed off to atmosphere and thus minimizes the stink/evaporation of fuel. Note that the valve has to be above the fuel level for it to work in this manner.

In rollover attitude the mass of the liquid fuel presses the ball against the top seat thus preventing any fuel from dribbling out.

The vapour cannister uses activated charcoal to "scrub" any hydrocarbons (and thus stink) out of the pressurized vapour escaping the tank, and also serves the purpose of preventing dirt from getting into the tank.

Earl

[Mastertech5]

I used a Breeze automotive vent because it uses a larger hose that matches my GM canister vent size. I just checked the FFR vent valve I still have and it has a 4 way crimp and does NOT seal when blowing through the nipple. In your scenario any pressure in the tank would lift the ball and unseal it anyway, the ball isn't that heavy. FYI.

[Just 1 More]

Got a few little things done over the weekend. re-engineered the trans mount, got rid of whatever mount was on there, went with a factory style GM mount, flipped and re-drilled the FFR bracket and now have yoke clearance, Clarence.

Got the headers & pipes removed and boxed up, ready to send off to Jet-Hot Coatings to have everything thermal coated to hopefully help reduce heat output. They say it's a 65% reduction so.....

Pulled the valve body out of the 700R4 trans and it's ready to head to TCI to have the constant pressure modification done.

And then did the Second Skin Mega Block thermal insulation in the floor. The stuff isn't cheap so i'm expecting exceptional results. It's only 1/2" thick so I doubled up on it. Waiting on some 3M 5200 to seal and finalize it.
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[33fromSD]

Got a few little things done over the weekend. re-engineered the trans mount, got rid of whatever mount was on there, went with a factory style GM mount, flipped the FFR bracket and now have yoke clearance, Clarence.

Got the headers & pipes removed and boxed up, ready to send off to Jet-Hot Coatings to have everything thermal coated to hopefully help reduce heat output. They say it's a 65% reduction so.....

Pulled the valve body out of the 700R4 trans and it's ready to head to TCI to have the constant pressure modification done.

And then did the Second Skin Mega Block thermal insulation in the floor. The stuff isn't cheap so i'm expecting exceptional results. It's only 1/2" thick so I doubled up on it. Waiting on some 3M 5200 to seal and finalize it.
20230219_200647.jpg

Looks good. Keep in mind you may need to adjust the yoke height (up or down) once you get the drive shaft on car and the car is sitting at ride height.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

Looks good. Keep in mind you may need to adjust the yoke height (up or down) once you get the drive shaft on car and the car is sitting at ride height.

Jim

Thanks Jim, I've got the spacer option kind of built in a little better now. I had a few shims left over from my T56 swap in my Camaro so that's one of the reasons I went with a GM trans mount for the bolt pattern

[Just 1 More]

You wouldn't think something as simple as adjustable seat tracks and seat mounting would kick your *** but, for whatever reason, it sure kicked mine. I had serious brain issues, overthinking it and trying to over engineer it. In the end, I simply mounted the sliders to the seats, which required nutserts in the seat frame then 1/2" spacers for the slide release/locking mechanism to operate. Then marked and drilled through both levels of floor aluminum. Cut and drilled out the 5/16" studs that came swedged in the sliders, replace with grade 8 - 1/4" bolts, grind the side of thick flat washers so they fit in the seat track channel, tack weld the head of the 1/4" bolt to the washer so that it won't spin and you can run a lock nut up on it from underneath without having to hold the head in the seat track yet isn't welded to the seat track incase you need to remove it. I didn't want the aluminum panels to crush down on themselves when I tighten the bolts so I made 1" aluminum spacers, cut the foam/heat barrier to accept the spacers and sealed them with foil tape. Like I said, Simple.

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[JimLev]

Those look like the same sliders I bought. I then swapped my FFR seats (without the sliders) for a set of high back Mazda Miata seats that came with sliders.
When I have time I think I’ll chop off the non OE sliders on the Miata seats and install the ones I bought as they work really nice.

[Just 1 More]

nothing exciting, just made my fuel vapor system yesterday. The check valve fitting goes to the vapor cannister then to an old fuel filter that has a sintered bronze filter in it.
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Confirmed that I have the vapor canister upside down, tubes should be on top.

[Ltfracing]

Just wondering what wheels are on it,and what size tires,thank you