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Thread: Removing the body

  1. #1
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    Removing the body

    Since I am not the one that installed the body on the frame, what steps need to be taken to remove the body? I presume doors and Trunk lid need to come off.. How many and where are the bolt/connection points?
    Thanks

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    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    you should probably read those sections of the manual - but the short version (after doors/trunk) is that there is a single bolt in each rear wheel well, then rivets (or similar) all around the firewall, and (depending how final it was 'installed") rivets where the lower door sill hits the chassis.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    you should probably read those sections of the manual - but the short version (after doors/trunk) is that there is a single bolt in each rear wheel well, then rivets (or similar) all around the firewall, and (depending how final it was 'installed") rivets where the lower door sill hits the chassis.
    He didn't do the rivets in the firewall, i'll have to look everything over. I'll do some reading on the process

  4. #4
    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
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    The inner curved side aluminum panels in the trunk need to be removed, since the furthest back peak of that panel tucks into the body in the corners by the tail lights (the body will hang up if you try to leave them on) and then that lowest flat aluminum trunk floor panel up against the body needs to be removed (if done per the manual it's riveted to the body).

    To James' (RoadRacer) point the two single body bolts in the rear need to be remove, also any cowl rivets, bolts, etc. (Each builder fastens slightly different) and then some folks (me included) also screwed the rocker panel area of the body to the frame.

    If the waterfall (rear curved fiberglass panel behind the seats) is installed that will need to be removed as well.

    If it were me, I would start removing the obvious and then when you think you have everything try lifting up to see where else it may be anchored.

    Good luck
    33 Hot Rod w/ 302 & Tremec T5; paint color is 68 Ford Mustang GT LimeGold
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build-Thread

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    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
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    Forgot one since I'm not using it, but the roll bar if yours has it installed will need to be removed

    Jim
    33 Hot Rod w/ 302 & Tremec T5; paint color is 68 Ford Mustang GT LimeGold
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build-Thread

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    Quote Originally Posted by 33fromSD View Post
    The inner curved side aluminum panels in the trunk need to be removed, since the furthest back peak of that panel tucks into the body in the corners by the tail lights (the body will hang up if you try to leave them on) and then that lowest flat aluminum trunk floor panel up against the body needs to be removed (if done per the manual it's riveted to the body).
    I have had my body on and off a couple of times with the curved side panels in place. You lift the front of the body until it clears the firewall then slide the body back to clear the curved panels then lift the body off.

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  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dgc333 View Post
    I have had my body on and off a couple of times with the curved side panels in place. You lift the front of the body until it clears the firewall then slide the body back to clear the curved panels then lift the body off.
    ^_that will work on a Gen 2 body but not on a Gen 1 body.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
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    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33fromSD View Post
    The inner curved side aluminum panels in the trunk need to be removed, since the furthest back peak of that panel tucks into the body in the corners by the tail lights (the body will hang up if you try to leave them on) and then that lowest flat aluminum trunk floor panel up against the body needs to be removed (if done per the manual it's riveted to the body).

    To James' (RoadRacer) point the two single body bolts in the rear need to be remove, also any cowl rivets, bolts, etc. (Each builder fastens slightly different) and then some folks (me included) also screwed the rocker panel area of the body to the frame.

    If the waterfall (rear curved fiberglass panel behind the seats) is installed that will need to be removed as well.

    If it were me, I would start removing the obvious and then when you think you have everything try lifting up to see where else it may be anchored.

    Good luck
    Great info, Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    ^_that will work on a Gen 2 body but not on a Gen 1 body.
    I'm a Gen 2

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