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Senior Member
Going back to Go Kart Questions
Some background
I have a Gen 1 that was running and driving. However, when I purchased it the wiring harness had been pulled and many places I have found loosened bolts even the motor mounts for example. I reinstalled the wiring harness and have the car running and driving again but just enough of the harness installed to evaluate the drivetrain. I have a 4 post lift and am considering just yanking the body again to install a new wiring harness and give everything a good once over, touch up etc.
My questions are what is involved in pulling the body again besides the obvious things like fuel tank filler?
Can I yank the body and leave the radiator and grill still attached?
Where are the standard body mount points?
How heavy is the body, how many men to lift it off?
Thanks
MK2 Roadster - 347 - Boss 302 Crate 4x2 Weber 44 IDFs
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Moderator
once the body is off, you can carry it yourself - but you'll really need two of you to lift it off the chassis.
remove doors and trunk lid. If I were you, i'd mark very carefully where the door bolts are - a LOT of adjustment there. remove waterfall behind seats.
standard fixing places (do you have the manual, if not download one from ffr) are one bolt in rear wheel well, bolts all around the firewall edge, and maybe/probably rivets along the door sills. The trunk aluminum will "depend" - you may need to remove some (drill out rivets). You can leave radiator/shell in place.
p.s. I've never actually removed it, but these are the reverse of attaching it I think.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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It is relatively easy as RoadRacer suggests. Best advice as he stated is to get a copy of the build manual and see how it was built. The body is very light. I had the body on/off several times during my build and I used my engine lift to easily manage it by one person. Seeing as another person started the build and didn't finish, I would recommend taking apart as much as possible or at least check all the bolts for torque, etc. The one I recently completed, I discovered in several places in the suspension the wrong bolts were installed and many were not tightened to the required spec's. Better to spend a little time now than experience a major failure down the road!
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I just did this last month. To add to the above you値l need to remove the trunk side aluminum pieces and the aluminum at the very rear bottom.
With the trunk side pieces removed you値l see the rear body bolt that goes thru the rear well wells.
Remove the seats, roll bar, and waterfall. Then you can remove the door pivot shoulder bolts. This won稚 effect the door alignment.
With the above removed you can remove the trunk hinge shoulder bolts so you won稚 need to spend hours trying to align the trunk again.
You値l need to spread the body apart at the door hinge area to clear the door mount brackets.
I have an old Gen 1 manual that was given to me by another builder that sold his hotrod. If you want it let me know, I値l send it to you.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
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