Tools for Cutting Front Suspension Links/Control Arms for Alignment

[GlennC]

Getting ready to do final alignment. I'm pretty close now but I suspect I may have to cut the lower links/control arms tubes a little. Is there a better method other than a hacksaw to cut these tubes? Tube cutter, Jigsaw, etc?

Thanks

[RoadRacer]

I always use a cutting wheel on an angle grinder.. faster and cleaner. Then rethread with the right die. Tap and die set is super handy you’ll use them often

[RoadRacer]

But I do want to clarify because you should NOT be cutting the arms - maybe shorten the thread on a rod end.. but not the arm tubing itself

[GlennC]

James, appreciate the info. From previous posts on the subject I understood that some builders had to cut the tubes a 1/4" - 1/2" shorter as well as the rod ends in order to obtain the proper adjustments. Am I wrong in interpreting that the tubes themselves need to be cut?

Glenn

[Just 1 More]

But I do want to clarify because you should NOT be cutting the arms - maybe shorten the thread on a rod end.. but not the arm tubing itself

James, Is this really something that needs to be done?

[jeskam]

I used my belt sander. Worked perfectly.

[Dgc333]

Why do you think you need to cut the lower control arms?

I put mine together per the dimensions in the manual and they were pretty close once I had the engine installed and on the ground, there was about 4 or 5 threads exposed. The passenger side had some positive camber which required lengthening the lower control arms but it was only a turn or two.

[GlennC]

I have a fairly early manufactured kit. Some guys with the earlier kits ran into a problem of not being able to get their camber/caster adjustments because of running out of adjustment. Some of these guys had to manually shorten some of these components in order to get to where they needed to be on front end alignment. It is my understanding that FFR corrected the problem with later kits. Again, not everyone had to do these modifications, dependent on when your kit was manufactured, tire/wheel combo, & ride height you were running. When I did a rough alignment I set the control arms per the dimensions and I was pretty close. My camber was right around 0*, toe-in right on, & caster close enough. This allowed the car to be drivable on a temporary basis. I've noticed though, the more miles I've put on the car, & the more adjustments I've made, I've developed more negative camber than I should have. I'm getting ready to recheck my alignment specs & make adjustments as necessary. By eye it looks like I may not have enough adjustment on the rear lower control arm to get to the proper camber. Again, I may not have to make any modifications to tubes or rod ends but if I do I was just inquiring as to the best way to do it.

[Dgc333]

Understood.
FYI, the swaged suspension arms can be purchased from Speedway Motors in custom lengths, an alternative to cutting the ones you have

[RoadRacer]

James, Is this really something that needs to be done?

I’m not sure I did have to, but I do remember some did. But this was 2017 era for sure

[33fromSD]

Not saying you don't have to cut them, I agree some folks with older kits had to, but before cutting anything I would make sure of a few things:

1) Final alignment should only be set once the vehicle is completely done (final ride weight).
2) Final ride height should be set before final alignment.
3) When setting the alignment be sure to roll the vehicle back and forth several feet to help settle the suspension. This should be done several times in an alignment.
4) Personally, I like to get the alignment close and then drive it 10-20 miles before rechecking it and adjusting it and blessing it as final.
5) Recheck alignment after the first 200-300 miles, because settings will change some due to the suspension settling / breaking in.

I know a couple guys locally who were so gong-ho / worried about setting their alignment in go-kart stage which is fine to do it as an exercise to get familiar with the alignment process, but keep in mind it's going to need to be redone anyway after it's at final ride weight & height, so I would not take too much stock in alignment specs in the early stages.

Jim

[JimLev]

Glenn, how early is your car, what is your chassis number?

[GlennC]

Sorry I'm late in responding. Chassis # FR51000160HR. Just got some info concerning making adjustments. Some were able to obtain their camber adjustments by adding some threads with a die to the linkage adjuster. Something to look at?

Glenn