Tunnel Top E Brake Assembly

[cv2065]

Working on a couple of options for a tunnel top e brake location on the passenger side. Lots of great info out there for ideas. I bought the Lokar e brake assembly and carved out a plate from 1/8” steel for the silver double cable adjustment bracket that comes with the Lokar kit. Question is this. If I used the FFR cables instead of the Lokar ones, and ran them through the cable holes at the back of the tunnel as designed, and then ran the cable straight to the Lokar adjustable clevis, do I still need to run the cables through the aluminum double cable adjustment bracket? It seems redundant as I can adjust the slack with the clevis assembly but maybe I’m missing something?

[cc2Arider]

I'm doing something similar, and purchased Lokar WCA-8070 "Cable Union Block with set screws" for this purpose...

Where I plan to differ a little is to adapt my own cable anchor mounts. The general FFR location is fine, but I'd like to pair the cables horizontally instead of vertically. I'm also attempting to lessen the angle of the original tabs since I'm not trying to route the cables under the main tube (as in the standard FFR guidance).

I'm in the middle of mocking up my powertrain in the chassis and hope to have some pictures available for my e-brake mounting bracket soon. I don't want to commit to anything until I can confirm my design fits with the TKX shifter location

Craig C

[cv2065]

When I did the handbrake on the side during the last build, I used edwardb's pulley method, which worked great where the cables rode on pulleys vs under the 4" tube. They went straight from the FFR mounted cable bracket through the pulleys and then to the Lokar style union block on the handle. I think I'll go this route but no pulleys and have it go straight from the FFR mounted cable bracket to the union block on the handle and leave out the aluminum Lokar cable adjustment bracket. It's much closer to the FFR cable bracket being on top of the tunnel so much less routing of brake cable.

[MSumners]

Used the Lokar and looked like this. I recall cutting the ffr cables and securing them in the set screw block.

[cv2065]

Used the Lokar and looked like this. I recall cutting the ffr cables and securing them in the set screw block.

That’s perfect and exactly what I was thinking. Your cables come straight from the fixed cable mounts on the frame correct? Thanks!

[OB6]

Used the Lokar and looked like this. I recall cutting the ffr cables and securing them in the set screw block.

I recall seeing this in your build thread and immediately deciding to do the same. Nicely done.

[cc2Arider]

Looks good MSumners!

Craig C

[MSumners]

That’s perfect and exactly what I was thinking. Your cables come straight from the fixed cable mounts on the frame correct? Thanks!

Correct I ran the cables just like in the manual. They are just cut short and attached to the E brake by the brass block with the set screws. So far holding up and works great!

[dbo_texas]

Curious why you guys are going with the Lokar kit instead of the FFR handle (mounted to top of tunnel)? What are the advantages? I have seen plenty of folks use the Lokar kit, but wasn't sure why.

I actually prefer the look of the FFR handle, but mounting it may be a bit trickier, and then maybe mounting the cables to the FFR kit will be more difficult because I'll need to shorten them and crimp a new stopper on them. My build thread has a video of how I "think" it will work. For edwardB's 65 Coup, he used the FFR handle (which I believe is the same as the Roadster) and mounted it similarly w/ good success.

[EZ$]

To those using the Lokar handle on top of the tunnel cover, I hope you have better success than I did. Installed mine exactly as the one pictured by Msummers above. Was never able to get enough force on the brake to get it to hold. With the brake set I could still roll the car with virtually no effort. Ended up abandoning the setup and installing an EStopp. Now with the brake set, if I try to drive the car with it set, it will stall the engine.

[dbo_texas]

Curious why you guys are going with the Lokar kit instead of the FFR handle (mounted to top of tunnel)? What are the advantages? I have seen plenty of folks use the Lokar kit, but wasn't sure why.

I actually prefer the look of the FFR handle, but mounting it may be a bit trickier, and then maybe mounting the cables to the FFR kit will be more difficult because I'll need to shorten them and crimp a new stopper on them. My build thread has a video of how I "think" it will work. For edwardB's 65 Coup, he used the FFR handle (which I believe is the same as the Roadster) and mounted it similarly w/ good success.

For anyone using the FFR handle kit, if you had to shorten the cable lengths, how did you terminate the end to mount into the FFR saddle? I have a large crimper used for my battery cable terminals - wondering if I can just crimp the aluminum blocks on the ends and whether that will be strong enough to hold from the force of the brakes.

[cv2065]

Curious why you guys are going with the Lokar kit instead of the FFR handle (mounted to top of tunnel)? What are the advantages? I have seen plenty of folks use the Lokar kit, but wasn't sure why.

I actually prefer the look of the FFR handle, but mounting it may be a bit trickier, and then maybe mounting the cables to the FFR kit will be more difficult because I'll need to shorten them and crimp a new stopper on them. My build thread has a video of how I "think" it will work. For edwardB's 65 Coup, he used the FFR handle (which I believe is the same as the Roadster) and mounted it similarly w/ good success.

I think the biggest reason is the clevis that comes with the kit. Makes it easier to terminate the cables into the handle vs the FFR version. I also like the handle itself a little better and it comes in a gloss black powder coat.

[MSumners]

Interesting, Not sure what’s different. 4 clicks will lock the wheels on mine.

To those using the Lokar handle on top of the tunnel cover, I hope you have better success than I did. Installed mine exactly as the one pictured by Msummers above. Was never able to get enough force on the brake to get it to hold. With the brake set I could still roll the car with virtually no effort. Ended up abandoning the setup and installing an EStopp. Now with the brake set, if I try to drive the car with it set, it will stall the engine.