Starting the doors soon and wanted to ask about filler. Since the doors need quite a bit of build up, especially at the cowl, would Rage Gold be fine there (applying multiple thinner layers) or should I use a reinforced filler in these areas?
I used Rage Gold & Fibertech from Evercoat along with a little fiberglass on the door. Just understand that my door modification worked and worked well; however, I'm the only guy that I know who did this.
When the doors are in the proper position the filler doesn't have to be deep. I didn't think to hold a scale up when taking this pic but can tell you that the thickest part is <1/8"
I can see from your photos that your door needs to move upward so that the top of it is even with the body where it curves around from horizontal to vertical. Also your door needs to move outward, especially at the bottom. You should have the body pushed in as far as possible in front of the door. Once you have the front of the door flushed with the body at the lower curve pull the body outward just ahead of the rear wheel until it flushes with the rear edge of the door. There's a lot of give and take when adjusting the door fit (top of the door out...body in...bottom of the door out...top of the door in...raise the door up...body out...rinse & repeat ) but if you put the effort in here it will reduce the amount of filler it takes to get the contours right.
When the doors are in the proper position the filler doesn't have to be deep. I didn't think to hold a scale up when taking this pic but can tell you that the thickest part is <1/8"
I can see from your photos that your door needs to move upward so that the top of it is even with the body where it curves around from horizontal to vertical. Also your door needs to move outward, especially at the bottom. You should have the body pushed in as far as possible in front of the door. Once you have the front of the door flushed with the body at the lower curve pull the body outward just ahead of the rear wheel until it flushes with the rear edge of the door. There's a lot of give and take when adjusting the door fit (top of the door out...body in...bottom of the door out...top of the door in...raise the door up...body out...rinse & repeat ) but if you put the effort in here it will reduce the amount of filler it takes to get the contours right.
Did you slot the holes under the rocker area so the body can be moved in and out? I am nowhere near the expert that Jeff is but I see a door that is low and a body that is too far out. Push the door up at the hinges and the body in and I think most of the problem will go away. I'd rather add a bit at the bottom edge of the door than build up the top that much.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
Did you slot the holes under the rocker area so the body can be moved in and out? I am nowhere near the expert that Jeff is but I see a door that is low and a body that is too far out. Push the door up at the hinges and the body in and I think most of the problem will go away. I'd rather add a bit at the bottom edge of the door than build up the top that much.
Yeah, the body sections at the front of the doors has been pushed in as far as they can go already. Also, the door can come up some. When I fitted it last week it was not nearly as low but certainly not flush with the cowl. Not bad either. It has sagged a bit, nuts weren't the tightest - will be corrected. As with all body work, the solution will be finding the middle ground between different points vs at one spot or the other..
When you do your gapping use only one paint stick and always use the same stick.
If you get the doors and gaps looking tight, it will really make your car look right.
Make sure you pay attention to areas where the body dives in as well.
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) but if you put the effort in here it will reduce the amount of filler it takes to get the contours right. 
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
