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Thread: Making your own oil cooler and brake duct grilles.

  1. #1
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Making your own oil cooler and brake duct grilles.

    For my fellow Roadster builders who are on a budget, or just like to make things themselves, here is what I did. Cheap and simple.

    Go to a commercial kitchen supply store, and purchase a "large" crispy pizza crust pan. They are made of extruded aluminum, and should cost less than $10. Who knows, you may even be able to purchase one cheaper at Wal-mart if they sell them.

    I did this while my body was still off the car, but by simple measuring it could still be done with the body on. I held the pizza pan up to the back of the openings, and traced them with a marker. Then allowing for some extra material, I cut out the pieces. After that I held the pieces behind their respective openings, and using only my fingers, I squeezed them in to a shape that conformed with the opening. You may first want to make a few relief cuts along the edge to help do this. Your kind of molding them enough to wrap around the rear of the opening..if you get what I mean..lol
    In my case, I allowed for the quickjack body bolts to help retain them, by cutting two holes on one side of the grilles, for the bolts to pass through. Silicone the other areas at the back for additional retention. Some fellows just use silicone by itself, and don't bother with the body bolts. and I will probably do just that, for the oil cooler grille, as I can't see any other easy way to fasten it.



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    Senior Member riptide motorsport's Avatar
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    Perfect!
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    Senior Member NicksPapaw's Avatar
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    Great job Bill. This can also be done using a gutter guard found at your local HD or Lowes. Doesn't always have to cost a bunch to work correctly.
    Steve
    MK 3.1 #6422, Complete Kit, 340hp Ford Racing Crate Engine, WC T-5 Trans, 3.55 Rear, Barcelona Red Mica Metallic, Silver Stripes

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    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Yet another reason I love this site - such great ideas from all the builders. Keep 'em coming!!!
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

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    Senior Member NICK C's Avatar
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    Thanks Bill. Too cool.

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    Bill, great job on the grill's. BTW Necessity is the mother of invention!!

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    That is slick way to fix a grille. Nice!
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    Talk about timing. This weekend three of us were talking about this very same subject.
    I have some leftover SS mesh from Pegasus that I used for a radiator stone guard. I
    will give that a try, but the pizza pan idea is a good alternative. Thanks for the BUMP Bill.

    Mack

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    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    FWIW mine are held in with GE silicone from Home Depot. Still tight after 22 months.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
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    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Wondering if this material would work?

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/46059475

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    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynntuna View Post
    Wondering if this material would work?
    That should work fine. Might be a little harder to bend back, but just cut a few more reliefs in it, (or darts as women would call them when working on a dress material).
    You could use a hammer and a piece of pipe, to form the rounded ends easier.

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    Senior Member canuck1's Avatar
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    MMM... pizza! This thread is making me hungry!



    Sean
    MK 3.5 roadster (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis) 396W stroker, 4 bbl mass air EFI, QH (self-tuned), AFR 195CC Renegade, XE274HR, GP 4-1-4 SS headers, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, SAI mod, bumpers, 2 X roll bars, I² electronics, PS, hydroboosted brakes: 95 GT front, custom MK VIII calipers/Cobra discs rear, FFR front, Levy rear LCA's, Forte front, VPM rear bars, CF dash, mod comp layout w/Auto Meter Ultra-Lites, Lucas tri-bar headlights, coupe taillights, painted by SRP (again!)

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    Senior Member jakester888's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    In my case, I allowed for the quickjack body bolts to help retain them, by cutting two holes on one side of the grilles, for the bolts to pass through. Silicone the other areas at the back for additional retention.
    I don't want to go through the quick-jack bolts - and I'm not as confident that Silicone would make a good bond between fiberglass and aluminum. Is there a special fiberglass/metal bonding glue I can buy?

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    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    There are several epoxy glues available that would work with both materials. Gorilla glue for example.
    Could be difficult to remove afterward, if you ever needed to, as that stuff really sticks.

    Several builders have used silicone for this purpose, (and fo holding the FFR fender vents in place), and somewhat surprisingly, it seems to hold better than one would think.

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    Silicone works just fine!
    FFR 5136 Started as a donor...donor guages, engine, trans,etc. Now...TFS street intake,stage 1 cam, GT40p's,24# injectors and 80mm MAF,70mm TB,Z-spec t-5, and PSE Halibrand wrapped with Nitto 555 G2’s. My ever evolving dream car!!

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    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    A bump up for new builders..
    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

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    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
    FWIW mine are held in with GE silicone from Home Depot. Still tight after 22 months.
    Will update this. 5+ years on the road @ 12,000+ miles & the GE silicone is still holding fast even with a cold air duct on the oil cooler vent.

    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Nice.

    As long as there are no anchovies.

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    Does FFR sell,larger pieces of the material that they sell for the air ducts that can be used to make the grill insert

  22. #20
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Thread back from the dead. Will add my screens are still on after almost 9 years with silicone. Radiator shield is a dirt track Nomex piece cut to fit & sprayed flat black with outdoor grill paint.

    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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  24. #21
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Kevin have you noticed any change in running temps since adding the Nomex?
    I've been lucky so far, as far as rad damage from road debris, but I shudder whenever a dump truck, or low deck, hauling an excavator pulls in front of me. Nomex would be a simple solution.

  25. #22
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    I used the Ultra Black gasket maker to adhere the grills, just like silicone but sticks even better.
    As for the grill material, I used expanded SS purchased from Online Metals. I wanted SS for the corrosion resistance. As large piece of the expanded SS was used to make a radiator protector. I used screen door trim to make a protective edge for the protector and then used the industrial Velcro to adhere it as I wanted the protector removable.
    Just another way to approach making these parts.
    MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, started 12/2011, registered 9/2014, sold 3/1/2018.
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  26. #23
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    I sent a request to FFR to see if I could purchase a large piece of the air duct mesh for the front grill. They have not responded . Does anyone know where to purchase the mesh and what are the specs. As always disappointed in the lack of response from FFR

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