1 year ago today I ordered my BluePrint 302 engine.
I am finally getting around to opening the crate up.
Looks like the engine hoist legs does not fit the width of the crate to lift it out. IMG_20240411_232253_161.jpgI
I guess I need to cut the corners of with a sawzal?
Let me know.
Not trying to be a smart a.., but first extend the hoist arm to the maximum length that will be more than the engine and transmission weigh. How do you plan to attach to the engine, a lifting plate bolted to the intake or chains bolted to the heads? The air cleaner needs to come off either way and possibly the carb too. Your hoist is a 2 ton model, so you can move the arm out to the 1/2 ton position.
I made a cart to move my Coyote and trans and I made it in a wedge shape to fit between the legs of my hoist. If you have a old large spare tire, or can get one from a local tire shop, they make great temporary engine cradles. All you need to do is lift the engine high enough to get it off the transportation fixture. With the transportation fixture removed, you can then position the hoist to lift the engine with the proper hoist arm position to lift the engine into the car.
MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, started 12/2011, registered 9/2014, sold 3/1/2018.
1970 Mustang Fastback Coyote powered Boss 302 tribute. Started 10/14/16.
Gen 3 Coupe Base Kit non-donor build. Ordered 4/5/2024 to be received August 2024.
I ended up using a combination of tools to elevate the crate itself to be on top of cheap HoBo moving dollies. These are narrow enough to allow the hoist legs to be under the center of gravity of your powertrain
Craig C
PS: Use your hoist and a lifting strap on your crate to get the moving dollies underneath. One side at a time (front/back), but be careful the whole crate doesn't shoot out between efforts
I see an engine levelor all ready to go. So connect that, extend your boom arm, and see how close you are. The levelor chains will give you some help in that it can be pulled a bit toward the boom hook. If it still doesn't quite reach, I'd buy maybe 18in of chain to extend the hook from the end of the boom. Let the hoist pull up as well as forward. Once out of the crate, lower it to the floor, and remove your extra length of chain.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
I am going to tackle this problem this morning. I was planning to use the 2 ton position to give the most height. Let me see how much further the arm extends in the 1/2 ton position. I do have the engine leveler. Haven't hooked it up yet. Thanks for the reminder to take off the cleaning element.
One more question. Since this is a 302 ( bit smaller than some installs) do you think it makes sense to put the headers on before installing the engine?
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago.
Got Corvettes out of my system, and now back after 18 years to build a MkIV.
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, 427 Stroker, Holley Sniper 2, Hyperspark, TKX, IRS, Wilwood Big Brakes
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I am going to tackle this problem this morning. I was planning to use the 2 ton position to give the most height. Let me see how much further the arm extends in the 1/2 ton position. I do have the engine leveler. Haven't hooked it up yet. Thanks for the reminder to take off the cleaning element.
One more question. Since this is a 302 ( bit smaller than some installs) do you think it makes sense to put the headers on before installing the engine?
if you're doing shorty headers and J pipes, you'll have room w/ the headers on the block. If using 4 into 4/long tube headers, you'll need to install those after the block is in.
do some research on this forum and the other one. many good threads on best practices when installing the drive train.
engine leveler helps a lot. dropping the front and raising the rear of the frame also helps w/ the angle needed to stab everything in.
Now that it's out of the crate I discovered that I have the wrong bracket for my hydraulic clutch. After a quick call to Forte, the correct one is on its way.
get a used tire or something softer underneath if you're planning on keeping it on the hoist for some time. the ram on the hoist will eventually relax and lower the engine and you don't want to ding up your new oil pan. most tire shops will let you grab a used tire destined for the landfill for free.
I bought a engine stand from one of the parts stores, they bolt in place of the motor mounts on the side and allows you to be able to move the engine around if you are not installing it soon.
I have been thinking about an engine stand. Probably be week or two before the engine goes in. I also found a spare tire in my backyard that I will stick under the oil pan.
Make sure it's just the tire. If it's mounted to a rim / wheel then the oil pan could get damaged.
MkII: 408 Dart block dry sump, 750cfm carb, G-Force T-5, 8.8 rear with 3.55 gears, 3-link, Kirkey seats, black ceramic coated twister mufflers with shields and adjustable turn down tips, passenger roll bar, front and rear roll bars. 2020 GT500 Magnetic metallic, with white and lime green stripes.