Trick Flow

[avgjoe]

Pretty sure you need the F/P guage on the supply side otherwise you'll be reading 0 since the return goes back to the tank and it's not pressurized. Hook up the MAF also; it'll probably start w/o it but will run poorly and possibly lean. Lots of info on the EEC-IV here www.fordfuelinjection.com.

Joe

[Jim Schenck]

Joe is right on, the pressure gauge needs to be on the send side, return side would have no pressure since it is open into the tank.

[R Walter]

Well the engine is finally in and running....Off to the dyno next week to break it in and tweek it. (numbers to follow)
I've run into something strange. When I turn off the ignition I hear a short "whistle" from the engine. Tom Coon has the same thing.
Anybody else have this.....any ideas on what is happening?


Robert Walter
West Coast Challenge car #3

[tcoon]

In regards to the fuel pressure, if you used the rail mounted regulator which goes on the (required) stock fuel rail, it is on the proper rail...perhaps you got the fuel lines switched? Definitely sounds like something I would do!

[tcoon]

Just another thought...did you disconnect the fuel pump? Perhaps it got reconnected with the polarity reversed and is running backwards? I DEFINITELY have done that one! It really sucks! Haha!

[mhoward1]

The whistle seems to happen to everyone. It is probably from the new intakes.

[johngeorge]

Tom, my whistles like mad, specially at idle and when you shut it off.

[tcoon]

Thanks for that info. I was planning to spend the day taking off the upper intake (again) chasing a possible vacuum leak. Think I'll hold off as it seems to be running well. Much smoother since I found a bad plug wire to #6. Heading back to dyno tomorrow!

[johngeorge]

Tom, my Dyno guy hooked up the smoke machine to the vaccume line checking for vaccume leaks and found none.. Have your guy do the same if you are worried about it. Brian Sanders contacted trickflow about the whistling and they said it was the ammount of air flowing past the throttle blade at idle, and to reduce it drill an 1/8" hole 1/4" from the center shaft of the throttle blade. The whistling hasn't bothered me that much to try the mod yet.

[Mark Dougherty]

Waynes whistles like mad also.
but somehow he doesnt hear it while on track.
just step on the gas and you dont hear it.
LOL

[avgjoe]

The hole sounds like a good idea, but would it be legal? I understand that it wouldn't make any difference performance wise but would you be DQ'd at Nats?

Joe

[tcoon]

Well, bad news. After replacing the plug wires and resetting TPS, idle speed, etc made the return trek to the dyno, only to find I'm still at 260 hp 256 torque. Very bummed!

Returned home. Pulled all plugs and they are cleanly burned and all the same. Full compression test shows 150 lbs all cylinders, with no variation, probably the cleanest compression test I've seen. Idle remains quite poor. Minimal whistle while running, just when you shut it off.

As far as I can see, the only viable next step is to start taking things apart, it seems I either have the wrong cam or one that is poorly ground. Any ideas? Can you measure lift without removing the cam to see if the specs are as advertised?

I must say that, after many dollars spent and countless hours of work I am quite disappointed to have gained only 30 hp! not to mention I'm about 55 hp off the chart. I guess I could compensate by filling my tires with helium. Oh well...back to the drawing board.

[Jim Schenck]

Tom,

I would look at all the easy stuff before diving into the engine, particularly since everyone else has been getting good numbers.

Things like:
Mass air meter, check the plug, check the output voltage, check sensor wire for damage
Computer, do you have one you can swap out and try?
Ignition, does the timing advance when the spout is plugged in
Any air or exhaust restrictions?
Are all cylinders firing, I use a paint marker and put a dot on the base of each header tube to make sure they all burn off (maybe an injector isn't firing)
Any driveline restrictions, like a dragging caliper or slipping clutch

Then getting into the engine:
Is the valve lash set too loose
Could the cam be off a tooth

[ED@TFS]

PM sent Tcoon

[vnmsss]

Eddie and Jim.....Thanks so much for helping Tom out....I stopped by his place on Sunday after his long haul back from the dyno at Thunderhill, and I know he'll be glad to get this thing sorted out.....

In regards to the numbers everyone is pulling, I've only seen reference to John's numbers....Robert Walter is the only other racer out here doing the upgrade, and I believe he's going to the dyno this week.....Since the East Coast cars are all apparently coming in good, can you share who else has done the upgrade, and are they all pulling well over 310HP?

Thanks!

Karen

[tcoon]

Thanks all for your suggestions. I think I am actually making headway. At the suggestion of several folks I dove into the electrical system. First swapped computers to no avail. Next tried a new TFI module which yielded a vastly improved idle...hmmm...took a test drive and noted a marked high speed miss...eureka...it must be electrical! Next switched to a new coil, still had the miss but a little better. I happened to have an old junkyard distributor from a previous motor, swapped that out and the miss is gone! Now it pulls well all the way to 6000 rpm with a satisfying howl from the new intake. Idles fairly well at 900 rpm. In think we're there but only the dyno will tell for sure. Back on the road again this Sunday to find out. Stay tuned!

[Jim Schenck]

So far this year I count 13 cars in the East that I know have fully changed over, (or built new to the new specs), and one suspension only. There are more out there with the parts that I haven't heard if they are done or not. I don't have numbers from everyone, and it is up to them if they want to post them, but so far everyone has been in the same range, from around 310 to 325 hp.

[FFR#63]

I think I'm the last guy here on the west coast working on the engine upgrade. All the suspension work is done and I just pulled the old engine this weekend. I'll start build the new short block this week. I want to thank all of you who are blazing the trail for me!

[mhoward1]

I think I'm the last guy here on the west coast working on the engine upgrade. All the suspension work is done and I just pulled the old engine this weekend. I'll start build the new short block this week. I want to thank all of you who are blazing the trail for me!

Don't feel bad, I think I might be the last guy on the east coast.

[vnmsss]

Thanks Jim!!

[R Walter]

[B]dyno results
Scan001.jpgOh my goodness I think I got carried away on tweeking my engine! ....what am I going to do now?
Hummm maybe detune it?......nah I don't want to do that
I wonder if I just turned it in if anyone would notice......oh probably
Maybe I can photo shop the document.....nah that would be too obvious
I know ...I know what I can do. I'll petition for a "SENIOR CITIZENS FUDGE FACTOR".....that's the
ticket. And...since I'm also lefthanded how could I possibly be denied.

[tcoon]

Wow! That 5.0 is on steroids! Is his name Herbie? According to my highly precise calculations you need to add about 900lbs of ballast...I suggest you duct tape Aunt Jemima and her sister to the hood and trunk lid so as not to disturb your weight distribution! Of course then you might be disqualified for doing aerodynamic body modifications!

[FFRSpec72]

[B]dyno results

Seems a little low on A/F Ratio, maybe taking the turbo chargers off will help that.

[mhoward1]

Hmm... 441 WHP and a 7400 RPM Redline. Maybe I can get you to build my new engine.

[FFRSpec72]

Went to dyno today, first run 290rwhp, second run 250rwhp, third run 240rwhp. Found out that #1 injector was not connected, plugged that back in and 4trh run 300rwhp and then chnaged timming to +13 (was 16) and 5th run was 312rwhp and then chnaged the fuel pressure (as A/Fwas about 15) to 42 from 52 and 6th run was 322 and flat 13 on A/F, so no spikes in A/F and the rwhp and torque, max is at about 5600 rpm and then it falls off.

I figure after the rings seat I should be up around ~330. Hit about 143 mph on the dyno at 6000 rpm.

The whistle noise is really bad, anyone got rid of that yet?

[johngeorge]

Tony, good numbers.

for whistling noise:

Brian Sanders contacted trickflow about the whistling and they said it was the ammount of air flowing past the throttle blade at idle, and to reduce it drill an 1/8" hole 1/4" from the center shaft of the throttle blade.