If I find a 2000 to 2004 4.6 engine with an automatic transmission, what modifications need to be done to fit a manual transmission to it in the roadster? Bell housing...
Thanks,
Smily
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If I find a 2000 to 2004 4.6 engine with an automatic transmission, what modifications need to be done to fit a manual transmission to it in the roadster? Bell housing...
Thanks,
Smily
To start with, which manual trans are you considering? T-5, TKO 500/600, Tremec 3650 ? It should be fairly easy to find the combination you are looking for. Bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and a very important pilot bearing. Then back to the 4.6 you would then need a computer/ wiring harness for the specific year of motor FOR A MANUAL trans. If I am forgetting something, or some of the info is wrong I hope others will chime in. I have a 4.6 DOHC out of a 03/04 Mach 1, which came with the Tremec 3650.
Mike
Mike pretty much covered it.
FFR Daytona Type 65 Coupe
67 427 Cobra
57' Belair
72 Pinto Wagon ,306" 1/4 miler
34 5 window coupe Ford
2003 Mustang GT
99' ZX9
85 Goldwing
All toys still in the Scuderia!
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Interesting, I would like to use as much from a donor to start with, so I really need to look for the best combination already in the donor.
I am thinking a good low milage engine/tranny, 5 lug, front and rear disc.
I want to do IRS, so Im thinking the FFR kit there.
Street car, not drag or autocross. Good horsepower, 260 to 300 (yea some would say that is not good )
Air conditioning heater,
Get the car on the road and upgrade later. I have learned to get the rear end I want and block type in the original build. Modular, big block or 5.0 pushrod.
Thanks for all this input,
Cheers,
Smily
Power steering from donor
As I mentioned yesterday when you asked about using a V6 car as a donor the front spindles and rear axle are wider. Nothing insurmountable but if you use these components considerations need to be made with regards to wheel/tire selections for proper fit.
Each builder's idea of "ideal" is different but in a nutshell most prefer either the FFR proprietary spindles or OEM ones from a '94 or '95 Mustang (V6 or GT are the same). '96 and later spindles are wider and depending on the wheel & tire used can put the edge of the tire beyond the fender. EDIT: My bad, I just realized that you are planning IRS so the following straight axle comments do not apply. I'll leave in case someone comes across it in the future who might find it helpful. In back going to the Fox Mustang width rear allows for the most popular wheel and tire combinations. A rearend from '94-'99 can be brought to Fox width by fitting it with aftermarket (North Racecars) axles and caliper relocation brackets. The axle housing from 2000-2004 is wider and has to be narrowed with replacement axles to reach that width. It can be used as is but requires custom offset wheels to do so.
Good luck.
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff Kleiner; 03-07-2012 at 07:23 AM.
Just my .02, I found it easier to buy the components I needed either new or used from e-bay or other sources than to buy a donor and go through dismantling, cleaning, and such. Then after that you have to try and sell what you didn't need/use. That just seemed too time consuming (for me). On the flip side you do get a good working idea of the components, which can be invaluable for some. I was in the same place as you Smily, not sure which direction to go for the engine/trans and rear end, then which spindles to get etc. Once I narrowed down the engine/trans/rear end I wanted everything else was fairly easy to plan. Not sure if you have bought the build manual or not, but if you haven't, you should. It gives you a lot of information on component selection. Currently I am still in the "buying parts mode", which means I haven't ordered the kit yet. Others will disagree somewhat with my opinion and that is fine, I respect all others comments, especially the ones that have been around the block a few times.
Mike
It just depends on what's more valuable to you. Time VS. Money.. Different people will always place different values on their time.
I had more time than money a few years ago, so I bought an $800 donor and saved a ton of money when I built my car. There is no "right way" to do it. It just depends on the person.
Proudly Driving: FFR MKIII #5392, '89 donor, 306 EFI, T-5
GT40P-Heads, 3-link, 8.8 / 3.55 Rear, 4 Wheel Disk Power Brakes,
17" Halibrands, 4X4 Headers, Koni Shocks
This is a really good forum. Thanks Jeff, Mike I may go your way with a pallet donor approach to save room in the garage, Joe, I will have time but my stupid nature is impatient lol.
Last night I told Debbie, "This may be too expensive and she replied a new car is going to cost you $35,000 so why worry about it?" That is why I have been married 36 years to this great bride of mine
I agree, this forum is a great place to get ideas, or bounce ideas off of others that have "been there, done that". Joe and Jeff can definitely give you a perspective that I can't. I have been buying parts for almost a year, with not too many left to buy, but I may hold off on buying the kit until fall. There are quite a few reputable auto dismantlers (sp), I have bought the majority of my bigger parts from them, LKQ Automotive is where I got a complete 2004 Mach 1 engine/trans combo complete from air cleaner to oil pan, all accessories, sensors, computer, etc. all with 71,000 miles. Another one is MPS auto salvage. Just try to find something near you because shipping can be quite expensive.
Mike
3yearplan,
If you don't mind sharing, how much $$$ are into the donor-ish parts by doing the junkyard / ebay thing?
I went to my local Ford specific junkyard and the price they gave me for the big components was as much as I have seen some running Mustangs being sold for. I came out of there with a price of $1000 over what I expected and would still need some small parts.
For what it's worth, around here I can buy a complete Fox-width 8.8 differential for $100-$200 from craigslist on any given month. I recall that 5 liter automatic cars came with 3.27 gears, which I've read is a nice ratio given a Roadster or Coupe's weight, and the unit is less likely to have been abused. If I were building a solid axle car I'd have them stacked up like cordwood for spares.
I got the engine/trans combo (trans still bolted to engine), from LKQ for $3100. Yes that is a lot compared to a 302, or variant, even quite a bit compared to the sohc engines. But for me it meant that I didn't have to piece together the set up. Meaning I didn't have to look for all the accessories separately, sensors, wiring harness, computer, fuel rails, all the little sh*t that can add up quickly. The clutch disc/pressure plate look very good and most likely won't even need to be replaced before the build. I didn't spend much on the rear end either (can't find receipt right now), it is a '94, which meant I knew I was gonna change the axles, and the gears, 2.73 weren't gonna cut it. If I were in the south or western part of the country I would have gotten more parts locally. Salt can tear up a car in no time flat. So Avalanche for you a running donor might be a better bet, for me, outside Detroit, not so much. Some of the smaller stuff I just bought new, radiator, fan shroud, FFR rack and pinion. Again, this worked for me, maybe not for others.
Mike