Alignment of body over rear axle? Rear wheels don't look centered in the wheel wells

[Neptune's Snorkel]

I've noticed in a lot of photos of FFR 33's that the rear wheels look a little close to the front of the fender (wheel curvature is not centered in the curvature of the wheel well). I understand that there are necessary aesthetic
compromises to make the suspension perform AND allow the wheel/tires to move without rubbing the rear fender . But, I was wondering if this is functionally intentional, accidental (on the part of other builders) or if different
axles (stock 8.8", 9", and aftermarket varieties) affect this.

I'm starting to source donor parts, and I would like to clear this up before moving forward. Any recommendations?? I plan on running a lightly-modded LS6/T56, and I prefer longer gearing for streetability and fuel efficiency.

[Arrowhead]

It's pretty much a function of the design of the chassis/body from FFR. There's no adjustment in the suspension arms so the only way to change it by custom control arms, a diffrent rear axle w/ custom mounting brackets or an IRS.

[KGB911]

deleted

[hdnik]

I can attest to the slickness and simplicity of its installation. Thanks Dan. The package is high quality and nicely powder-coated. Mine is the 4 link package. Both upper and lowers are adjustable so I am able to extend wheel base to the limits of the driveshaft (about 3/4" or so) with no real fabrication, set desired ride height and then re-set the pinion angle back to spec. Based on what i know to be true, I should now be able to fit about 27.5 to 28" tall tire in the centre of a full fender'd 33. A very reasonably priced modification.... Great blast for the buck!

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[Foristell]

Deleted, non supporting vendor

[Olli]

You will have to find information from Dr Ruth on your own as he is not a sponsoring vendor of this forum.

Olli

[myjones]

I've noticed in a lot of photos of FFR 33's that the rear wheels look a little close to the front of the fender (wheel curvature is not centered in the curvature of the wheel well). .

At SEMA 2013
I asked Jim S. how/why the wheelbase didn't match the body and he got mad and said it wasn't off-center and we were all wrong.
For clarity;
I like what Jim created in the 33 and I admire his work. But the body seems to not be up to the same quality as his design and
I still don't know why they differ. It is most obvious on full fender car and any no fender car with taller rear tires to visually compare
to the body crease that locates the rear fenders.

I saw what you did and like several others have I found a way to check it out. I found the fender to be a 32" mold so I cut a pair
of circles that size and tucked them tight in the wells. Then I pulled a string through the centers and measured to a datum point
on the frame. Then I installed the entire FF 4 link to proper ride height and re-checked to the datum point. I came up independently
with the same offset that two others had each using their own method to verify. IIRC we were all within 1/8" and two of us had
exactly the same dimension. The 33 at SEMA had bike fenders and it wasn't obvious on that car, maybe because you don't get to
see the concentric half circles for comparison.

I did get an answer though on why the 33 has one set of holes for the UCA's while most other FF cars have several.
The first multi-hole tabs were a clearance problem for the 3 link so they were bobbed. I bought a good set of adjustable
4 links with heims and sorted it out my way.
DB

[Foristell]

Hi Nick,

I really like what you have done on your build. I will be receiving my 33 kit in the next few weeks. I will be using some of your ideas on some things I thought could have been done a little better than what I experience at build school. I like the adjustable 4 link setup. It looks like it would have less tendency to bind up that is mentioned as a downside of the 4 link rear suspension. Will you be using a rear anti-sway bar?

Thanks,

-Larry

[hdnik]

No anti roll. I drive like an old lady this will be a cruiser is all. I'm trying to make it as comfortable as I can. Thanks for the kind words. I PM'd you... I assume you saw that?

Im im just taking my time and trying to think each step through... Lotsa help here on the forum.

[myjones]

No anti roll. I drive like an old lady this will be a cruiser is all. I'm trying to make it as comfortable as I can.
Im im just taking my time and trying to think each step through....

I don't drive like an old lady, but I do have back pain often. The reason I used a rear sway on mine is so I could go with softer springs
and get that "cruiser" ride. The softer you go the more you need the sway. The other issue is fender to tire clearance. With the stiff
FF springs the suspension doesn't travel very far. Go softer and you need to manage the travel. One part of that is to control the body
roll. If you go soft and hit a bump in a turn you add the body roll and the compression together and you get a tire rub on the low side.

You also have to watch the driveshaft clearance in your final set-up as that has a tight tolerance to the frame as well.

DB