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Thread: Engine Mount Issue

  1. #1
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    Engine Mount Issue

    I am trying to get some feedback regarding the engine mounts. Even though the mounts are symmetrical, there is basically a left and a right mount and this is because there are pilot guides on them. Does anyone disagree with this? However, upon inspection of the engine mount support brackets that are welded to the frame I noticed that the left bracket has two openings for pilots, while the right only has one opening for a pilot. This means that both engine mounts can be used on the left side, while only one can be used on the right side. Here is where it gets tricky, because if you go with the existing setup, then the engine sits back 1" too far. I assumed this was correct and thus cut my driveshaft by 1" and it turns out that my driver's side header hits the footbox. But because the bolts on the engine mounts are not centered, if the mounts are switched then I would gain the 1" back. In the latter case all I have to do is drill a hole in the right bracket to accept the pilot. I would imagine that others are experiencing similar problems with their headers hitting the left footbox and having to cut their driveshafts. I know tolerances vary, but 1" is quite a bit and it causes many other problems down the line. Maybe FFR will now give me a free driveshaft as a sympathy prize for all of my troubles
    Last edited by Coupe2740; 09-12-2012 at 12:16 AM.

  2. #2
    Trick Tool Maker, Super Moderator Hankl's Avatar
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    This all depends on which motor mounts you have. FFR designed the kits to use the Ford motor mounts, where this all goes awry, is when Energy Suspension, or some other after market mounts are used, so blaming FFR is going down the wrong path.
    With the aftermarket mounts, some allow you the flexibility to move the engine forward 1 1/2", or place it in the factory designed position, again, depending on whose mounts you've used. Cutting your driveshaft is all on you, probably not what you wanted
    to hear, but all of us are here for a reason, remember the measure twice, cut once advise, it especially applies to any self assembled car. Only, it's ask twice, then verify, and then cut!

    Hank
    “If you didn’t have enough time to do it right the first time. How come you always have time to go back and do it again?” FFR1000186CP

    Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
    Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.

  3. #3
    FFR Rookie Craftsman
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    Howdy coupe 2740,

    I posted on the other thread but I'll post here too.

    Swap your mounts.

    This "solves" several problems. It balances the car better and gives you mor clearance with your headers and it makes it easier to reach your stater, bellhousing bolts etc.

    Here's a link to a thread I started on a different forum about the same question.......

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/21-ffr-...e-forward.html

    Solved my problem.

    Paul
    FFR 4859GT 414W (stroked 351W, 4.0" stroke, 4.060" bore). Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front disc brakes (Mustang Cxxxra parts), 12" rear disc brakes (Corvette parts). 2003 Mustang Coxxa wheels, 275/40 front, 315/35 rear.

    Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.

  4. #4
    Member kiki231's Avatar
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    you cannot swap mounts without first disassembling them and moving the indexing pins around to fit in the frame plates welded to the chassis. No need to drill.

  5. #5
    Trick Tool Maker, Super Moderator Hankl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiki231 View Post
    you cannot swap mounts without first disassembling them and moving the indexing pins around to fit in the frame plates welded to the chassis. No need to drill.
    Not necessarily true, again, it depends on which mounts you have, I used the Prothane, and did not have to change anything.

    Hank
    Last edited by Hankl; 09-03-2012 at 05:29 PM.
    “If you didn’t have enough time to do it right the first time. How come you always have time to go back and do it again?” FFR1000186CP

    Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
    Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.

  6. #6
    Member kiki231's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hankl View Post
    Not necessarily true, again, it depends on which mounts you have, I used the Prothane, and did not have to change anything.

    Hank
    HA! -- see-- never trust the words of a newby like me!! I have yet to earn the straitjacket!
    Last edited by Hankl; 09-03-2012 at 05:29 PM.

  7. #7
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    Paul,

    Does swapping the engine mounts cause any problems for you with the placement of the headers coming through the body when you are moving the engine around....

    Thanks

  8. #8
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    Turns out I could not swap the mounts after all because the engine would sit a bit too far forward and I did not have enough play in transmission cross member. So I just cut the bolts out of the engine mounts and welded them 1" aft, that way the engine sits 1" further forward. Problem solved, now all I have to do is have my drive shaft lengthened a bit, as 2.5" sits outside the butt of the transmission. I guess there should only be about 1" of play with the yoke. Oh well, one problem solved, one problem created.

    Thanks everyone for the input.

    Rob

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