Buying your donor car?

[artistwantab]

Hey guys I have been lurking for a long time and Kalstar has been very helpful in his advice.

I have bid and lost a couple of auctions for my donor car. I have two basic questions and not sure if Kalstar will be available to answer my question before this new cars auctions end.

Would you inspect the car before purchasing?

Would you be concerned if it doesn't have the engine start seal?

The car has front end damage but minor from what I can tell on the photos and its a bit of a drive but not unreasonable.

Any help would be so appreciated.

[fastthings]

Are you saying the donar you may be bidding on has an engine that won't start? I did not buy a donar. I would think that the motor in tne donar would be the part you would want to be in the best condition. Lots of other stuff could be bought off the net.

Make sure the motor is good.

[artistwantab]

No the donor just didn't pass the start from Copart.

I just don't know how they judge that. It could be minor like a bad starter? It looks great otherwise.

[fastthings]

Well then, it would be good to ask them. If you found out all it was is the starter, then it well sell low as a non runner, and you will get it for a good price.

It could be major, it's the chance you take.

[Joe Mush]

Sometime with front end damage the radiator could be pushed into the engine. If that's the case the car can't be started. With coparts not being able to see it is a gamble but if you get it at the right price it can be worth it.

[artistwantab]

Well that answers my question.

Headed over there to look at it myself.

[Kalstar]

I agree with Joe, it might be minor. Even if it was worst case an engine is not as expensives as you thing. The bigger issue if it has electrical issues. it all comes down to price paid. If your close enough go look at it.

[KeithBoden]

Just to comment on the part about losing some Copart auctions, and possibly help with some things to do to win in that area, I've been watching them closely over the past 2 weeks. Today the going prices for 5 flood salvage Corvettes (which may or may not be what you want) were:

$5900 (unknown sale type)
$5500 (50th Anniversary, Reserve $6300)
$8100 (Z06, on approval)
$3600 (on approval)
$5100 (pure sale)

All of the final virtual (live) auction prices were $1500 to $3200 higher than the highest preliminary bid. In my opinion, take part in the virtual live auction, whether through Copart direct, or AutoBidMaster. Watching all the other cars go by, almost everything had live activity, and none of the Corvettes went to the highest preliminary bidder as far as I could tell watching the bid names and speed of counter bid. I think I ended up as the top bidder on one of them by pushing the bid up by bigger amounts till it was getting close to what I estimated the car would go for, but everyone probably has their own bidder psychology theories

[artistwantab]

Thank you.

I didn't win again but I like your advice. I think I may be too cautious at a fault.

So the prices you noted are the final prices of the auctions. How did you locate those because I can't seem to find how much the final sale prices are so I feel as if I am bidding without any idea of the going rates?

When I contact copart about the how much cars sold for they didn't respond. I also read on the internet that copart bids against bidders and that the "on approval" auctions are controls to make sure they get what they want.

Maybe I am over thinking all of this.

Just to comment on the part about losing some Copart auctions, and possibly help with some things to do to win in that area, I've been watching them closely over the past 2 weeks. Today the going prices for 5 flood salvage Corvettes (which may or may not be what you want) were:

$5900 (unknown sale type)
$5500 (50th Anniversary, Reserve $6300)
$8100 (Z06, on approval)
$3600 (on approval)
$5100 (pure sale)

All of the final virtual (live) auction prices were $1500 to $3200 higher than the highest preliminary bid. In my opinion, take part in the virtual live auction, whether through Copart direct, or AutoBidMaster. Watching all the other cars go by, almost everything had live activity, and none of the Corvettes went to the highest preliminary bidder as far as I could tell watching the bid names and speed of counter bid. I think I ended up as the top bidder on one of them by pushing the bid up by bigger amounts till it was getting close to what I estimated the car would go for, but everyone probably has their own bidder psychology theories

[Joe Mush]

Save the lot number and you can search in copart it will come up with final price

[artistwantab]

Save the lot number and you can search in copart it will come up with final price

I just tried that and all I get is "The Auction has Ended"

Here is the lot number.

28884982

[Joe Mush]

Your right, maybe it only keeps them in the system a shot time

[artistwantab]

Your right, maybe it only keeps them in the system a shot time

Not sure. I will try again tomorrow and see if they update it.

The auction ended today but I was curious about this because I am going to bid after the new year and want to get my ducks in order.

[RM1SepEx]

you have to watch the Copart auction and note it yourself to get a final price, copart doesn't give them out. Some copart auctions include an opportunity to check comparables, (for a fee of course!) these do list final prices for the comaparables.

copart won't even boost a car's dead battery to attempt to start so if it does when they turn the key that is your only chance. You can pay someone local to check the car for you.

Some other auction establishments allow an inspector to boost or otherwise "work" on a car to start it... Copart doesn't want to cause more damage by a start attempt etc...

[artistwantab]

Thank you for all the information.

I am hoping January is my month. You mentioned other auction houses? What other places are there?