I've been apart of this community ever since the 818 was announced and I'm proud to say that as of today I have officially begun my 818 build. I bought my 2002 WRX the summer after the 818 was announced with the intent to daily drive/track it until it was time to turn it into an 818. Well that time has come and today I cancelled my insurance and began tearing it apart.
I am happy to say that I am as excited about the 818 as I was when I first heard about it. I have about 10 years of HPDE experience in a variety of cars and sort of found myself in a conundrum. I tried to make the DD/track car thing work, but that proved to be too difficult to me. I found it hard to balance the track/street performance aspect. To solve the problem, I looked towards a track focused platform. The problem with this is I found that any platform that was desirable for me was far too expensive for a track toy. I found myself wondering why no one could offer a performance based/track oriented car that was still street able for under $30k. Then along came the 818 and filled that gap perfectly, so to speak.
My goals are to build an 818SR. I will start with an 818S and build it to suit the track more than the street. The R seems to be a little too extreme for me right now as I still want a somewhat street able car. I'm planning on keeping the engine stock for now with a good tune to get comfortable with the car. Eventually I'd like to end up with about 300 whp.
So on to the build. To start, I am by no means an experienced mechanic. I have done basic tasks like exhaust, suspension, brakes, wheel bearings, and minor electrical. This is going to be a learning experience for sure and that's part of the fun. So for anyone that is not sure if they have the skills to build one of these, follow my thread because I am the poster child for this. I'm going to start with the tear down of the WRX and continue on into the 818 build. I'm starting the tear down about 6 months prior to approx kit delivery date to give myself ample time to remove and refurbish the parts. I'd rather have everything sitting in my garage waiting to go then be rushed to get the parts ready.
I'm going to remove the engine/trans first so Day 1 began with the removal of necessary items to allow for engine removal. I removed the IC, Radiator (coolant shower was awesome), reservoirs, electrical connections, and hoses. I made sure to label everything! I know that 6-9 months from I'll be looking at a hose and wonder "where the hell does that thing go?"
I have a pretty busy schedule, so I'll be working on the car/updating this thread when I have time. I'm sure I'll be asking a lot of questions throughout, so thanks in advance. I look forward to the adventure!
I am drving my 2004 WRX wagon (purchased in early September for the 818) right now and plan to start to tear down once the donor list is final as I do not wish to spend time salvaging parts I won't use or destroying/losing a part that I will need.
I look forward to seeing your work progress. I would love to have a four post lift but my garage bays are under my house. Where did you get your lift? How do you like it so far? Would you change anything having installed and used this lift?
That's a very good point and something I've put a lot of consideration in. With that being said, I'm not going to part out anything until I know exactly what will be needed. Needless to say I'm going to have a very cluttered garage for a while.
As far as the lift, you can get it here: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/At...-Mid-Rise-Lift . It is by far one of the best purchases I have ever made. As you can tell, my garage does not support a four post lift, or even a Max Jax. The great thing about this lift is that it allows full access to the underside of the car, unlike most scissor lifts. Installing the lift is very simple. The only things you'll need is a 30 amp outlet and compressed air to release the locks. When I was DD'ing the WRX, I would just park over it everyday. It's also somewhat mobile in case you need to move it around. The other benefit vs a post lift is that It doesn't not impede use of the other bay whatsoever, which keeps the wife happy.
Good luck with your teardown. I started many months ago. I am still doing some little things. Working on the donor thread may be some use to you. Feel free to ask questions, some of us may help you avoid problems we ran into.
I used the (what you need list) from the FFR website. I store them in a enclosed trailer I have outside my barn. By keeping parts that will be used together it makes the storage easier IMO. I am lucky to have ample space to work and store. Although I have lots of car experience this will be my first Kit car. I am researching as much as I can from the other FFR forums and utube videos as well. Also I learn from our other 818 Bro's in their posts as well.
I put all bolts into a ziploc bag and labeled where it came from. My wife brings home these 2.5'x1.5'x6" plastic trays from the hospital. I put components into those based upon their use. One for suspension bits, one for random brackets, one for pedals and cylinders, others for random items and put them all on shelves. Items definitely not needed were sold or scrapped.
It would be great if you also kept a running total on man hours as you went. This will give me a good idea on the amount of lead time for the donor. I'd like to be sure to start soon enough be to done before my delivery but dont' want a lot of parts laying around forever either.
818 Project Status:
Delivery date: October, 2014
Donor search set to: On Hold
I realize that a "build thread" seems early, but I wanted to keep my teardown and build all in one location. Plus, we're really not that far out from builds. I recommend a sub forum for build threads.
Just an update. So far after 13 hours I am ready to pull the engine and transmission. Understand that 13 hours is probably excessive, but this is my first time doing engine/trans pull and I'm taking my time (part of the reason I started the teardown so early). I'm going to attempt to lull the engine and trans still connected. If that doesn't work I'll just separate them and pull separately.
I went ahead and removed the brakes/axles just to make it a little easier to get the tranny. If you are going to remove your axles at this point, keep in mind that these things have a tendency to seize to the hubs. I replaced my wheel bearing about a year ago and removing the axles form the hubs were a giant PITA.
I'm doing a good job of labeling and using zip lock bags for everything, but not so good at tacking pictures. I pan on taking a lot more pictures during the actual 818 build portion. I made a spreadsheet to keep track of all costs/time associated with the build. It's nothing fancy, but I can upload it if anyone is interested in using it.
BTW, having this lift is making everything soooooooo much easier. If you are on the fence about getting one, I highly recommend it! Happy New Year!
Looking good GUNS, it does not matter how long it takes to tear it down as long as you get it done clean and organized. You got time til the kit arrives. As Wallace mentioned, a good piece of advice is to take the engine,tranny and subframe down in one shot. In your case you have a nice little lift. Get a pallet (with wheels if you do not have a pallet jack) and have the engine, tranny and all mounting bolts off, along with all hoses, wire linkage, driveshaft etc. Make it totally free. I would also remove the radiator, condenser and any other bolt on stuff to give you a lot of room. once it is free and resting on pallet, raise the car slowly and make sure it is lifting away from the unit.Take your time and use your head to make it easier. Be safe and good luck. Being organized will totally help you down the road, I would save slot of stuff since the what you need list is subject to change. I got ride of my donor because my neighbors were getting jerky, so I hopefully grabbed all that I could. A funny thing, that is not mentioned on the what you need list is the harness and ecu, off coarse we need this, but I would think they should list these important items .
Last edited by metalmaker12; 01-01-2013 at 10:56 AM.
After watching an amazing Outback bowl (Go Cocks!) I had my brother and buddy help pull the engine. We decided to just pull it out the top since just about everything to do so was already disconnected. It went pretty smooth, the AC condenser got a little banged up on the way out, but no big deal. The only real lesson learned with pulling the engine and tranny out the top is make sure you either plug the tranny or drain it. I have a lake of transmission fluid on my garage floor right now. Once I get the mess cleaned up I'll continue on the rest of the tear down. Thanks for all of the great advice so far. I'm already having a blast, although I do miss driving the WRX.
Made some progress over the weekend, but I'm not where I want to be right now. I've had a few troublesome bolts that have eaten up some time. Does anyone have a good technique for separating the engine and transmission? I've tried chiseling with a putty knife, screw driver, chisel with no luck. I tried using some heat, but maybe not enough. So, any ideas?
You have to remove the clutch fork pin, so you can pull the fork out. It's seems like it is stuck on the throw out bearing.
Btw PB blast is amazing for locked up bolts. If you can lock the engine down to a pallet or something and place a large breaker bar above the rear output shaft and give it a pry up than down, side to side etc, that should do it if you have all the bolts and pin out. I second jumping on it if all else fails lol. These images may help, if not I will make you a video
Clutch fork pin is removed and clutch fork is disengaged. I'll try those techniques you suggested. I'm also going to try and jack up the tranny while the engine is on the hoist to try and take the pressure off the studs. We'll see what happens!
It is just teasing you, Remove the clutch slave and rubber booth and spray some pb blast towards the tranny spline, let it sit for like ten . You will get it. When I get a problem, I step away for about 5 -10, think about it, and hit it again, nine out of ten I get it.
mne was a ***** to sererate too... PB Blast all mating areas, hold it down as an assembly, pull twist and jump up and down, side to side... the dowel pins were most of the issue... It will come apart. It took two of us and my friend Mark is pretty big, applying the torque. I couldn't do it w/o extra hands
yea the pins need pb blast, a little heat, and love as well, You may need extra hands, or maybe I am just stronger than Rm1sepex lol. So we all want a video of this tranny removal on a live webcast. It should be fun to watch.
I was finally able to get the engine and transmission separated and I did it all by my lonesome. Sorry, no live telecast video, but I did take some pics.
I started by lifting the engine slightly and then jacking up the end of the transmission. the theory behind this was to help relieve tension in the guide pins and studs:
I then took the thinnest putty knife I could find to start chiseling away at any gap I could find. I found this knife at Lowes and it is very thin at the tip, but gradually gets thicker (so to speak) which worked great for creating bigger gaps.
Once I had a gap going, I chiseled in a flat head screw driver to create a bigger gap and hold what progress I had made. I then took a second flat head to create an even gap around the entire bell housing to give myself enough room for a pry bar.
Hard to see, but there are 2 screw drivers, a top and bottom left:
Once the gap was big enough I just worked it with a pry bar until it finally came apart.
Very happy to have this out of the way. it even went easier than I was expecting, especially after my first attempt. Once I was able to create a gap, it actually came apart pretty easily.
Does EVERY WRX valve cover leak at that same spot? Probably the 10th I've seen.
Not every, but a lot. These cars are 02's, so they're 10 years old. The uppipe gets rather hot and is very close to the passenger head which hastens the drying out of the rubber seal. There's also a half moon seal on the back. I put 09 WRX heads on my 06 motor and they don't have the half moons (one less thing to leak).
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