GUNS' 818SR Build Thread

[Xusia]

There really isn't anything about the spacing that is important. You want them close enough so you don't have big gaps between the rivets where the silicone sealant will cause a slight warp in the panel.

I did thousands of rivets on helicopters in the Marine Corps. There, the rivets were structural and spacing was important. Here with these it isn't. It is more for appearance than anything. Having them all in a nice straight line and with even spacing really makes it look a lot more professional.

Awesome, thanks!

Rather than tear up my undies causing them to potentially get in a bunch...

Good one!

[mindinclouds]

Speaking of drill bits, does anyone have a good source for the #11 and #30 bits recommended in the build books for the other FFR cars? My local roadster guys said it made the whole riveting process easier as they are few thou bigger than 1/8 (.191 vs .187) and 3/16. I see this one - http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...UGE-DRILL-BIT/ , but no experience with them.

My regular day job is in a different kit industry (Aircraft). It is difficult to put an 1/8 rivet in an 1/8" hole... +1 regarding using #30 for 1/8" rivets (standard practice on aircraft). For 5/32 rivets we use a #20 and 3/16" we use a #12.

One of the major suppliers that is very popular is AVERY TOOLS

Super people. Even though they carry a lot of tools that an FFR kit builder would likely never need, I am sure they would be happy to help you with the basics.

Note... not affiliated with them in any way, but I have done business with them many times and always satisfied.

[BullDogMosport]

stylespilotshop_2269_6220913741.jpg

Built 3 Airplanes and will build an 818R - after I sell my Porsche 911 race car and wait up to one year for a kit...

[BullDogMosport]

Oh sorry.. picture is a Rivet Spacer for drilling ALL the holes nice and straight... Most AirCraft supply places have them

[GUNS]

stylespilotshop_2269_6220913741.jpg

Built 3 Airplanes and will build an 818R - after I sell my Porsche 911 race car and wait up to one year for a kit...

Just bought one on amazon, thanks!

[AZPete]

Mechie3, we assumed you owned more than one pair of undies so you'd better buy some elastic.

[Mechie3]

Mechie3, we assumed you owned more than one pair of undies so you'd better buy some elastic.

Apparently I've been doing it wrong.

[GUNS]

Decided to do a test fit of the suspension while waiting for the firewall panels to come back from powder coating. Is anyone else having trouble lining up their lower A arms? I know RM1SepEx is having a similar issue. Look at the following pictures to see the rear bushing not lining up with the frame. I can't even get the bushing to mount below the chassis bracket as depicted in the manual.

[C.Plavan]

Did you flip the sides? I remember you have to swap rear bushing sides.

[Mechie3]

I have aluminum arms. I'll try and drill them tonight and test fit them. Just have to remember where I put them....

Couple questions though: You did swap the end pieces right? Do you have aftermarket bushings? Lots of them are offset. IIRC, even on the factory WRX setup, removing and installing these sometimes requires you to pull really hard on the arm to line stuff up.

[sneasle]

I order weekly from Mcmaster Carr for work, they offer decent discounts when you're buying in bulk. http://www.mcmaster.com/

I'll add a vote for McMasterCarr here. I've used them for years for supplies for school, work, and personal projects and they have always given me great customer service.

My orders always shipped out of Atlanta, usually have my stuff in less than 2 days (in Alabama), usually next day.

[RM1SepEx]

they won't fit
I made 1/4 inch spacers under the low side and put the high side on the top. The manual says one thing yet shows another... PM me your emails and I'll send it to you by email.... everyone so far has done this, some w/o the spacers but I think that stresses the bushings too much... I got there Sunday AM and have been having internet issues... If you are using the shorter arms from a wagon etc... your problem is bigger.

Mine fit under on the right but the holes wouldn't line up... on the left, wouldn't go under AND tyhe 90 return under the upper bracket forces the arm forward so that you can't line up the forward lower pivot in the brackets.

[Mechie3]

Sort of related: what hardware did you use to mount the top a arms RM1? The manual didn't specify.

[metalmaker12]

[QUOTE=RM1SepEx;111439]they won't fit
I made 1/4 inch spacers under the low side and put the high side on the top. The manual says one thing yet shows another... PM me your emails and I'll send it to you by email.... everyone so far has done this, some w/o the spacers but I think that stresses the bushings too much... I got there Sunday AM and have been having internet issues... If you are using the shorter arms from a wagon etc... your problem is bigger.
Mine fit under on the right but the holes wouldn't line up... on the left, wouldn't go under AND tyhe 90 return under the upper bracket forces the arm forward so that you can't line up the forward lower pivot in the

I used a 1/4 inch pin pry bar and got it to line up just fine. I mean they are a little difficult, but no real issue. The manual, what's that lol, I barely looked at it yet. If you need advice pm me. Also you have to cut the remaining threads off on the left lower control arm on the aluminum arms to not hit the aluminum panels, btw that's not in the manual. And the left upper control arm needs to be cut down also

[RM1SepEx]

I posted the same thing on my thread with photos, took the time to chop the photos so they would fit... :-)

Metalmaker, I tried to PM you sunday to discuss and your mailbox was full!

We came up with the same soln!

[RM1SepEx]

Did you flip the sides? I remember you have to swap rear bushing sides.

that isn't flipped, you end up with the flat bushing side down and the one with the slight inflection on top... see my build thread for photos

[GUNS]

Man I've tried these things every which way and they just won't line up. The have trouble lining up off the control arms as well, you have to sort of angle them to get them to work. I do have aftermarket bushings, but they are all the same size. I'm thinking I might have to offset my forward control arm bushings to move the entire assembly forward a bit.

[Erik W. Treves]

which aftermarket bushing do you have? They have offset centers which makes it harder. I had to flip them and add washers as spacers to take the anti-lift out of them which gave me a 1* pitch up on the control arm..worked out fine in the end. Also if they have been in a car before the bushings all have some memory in them so you have to fight that as well.

[longislandwrx]

Can you press the front bushing in another 1/4 inch? looks like that would line it right up. I will look at mine when I get home. (not installed yet)

[GUNS]

They are brand new Turn In Concepts Bushings. They are not an anti lift kit, just new bushings. I tried this before with the stock bushings installed with the same results.

[GUNS]

Can you press the front bushing in another 1/4 inch? looks like that would line it right up. I will look at mine when I get home. (not installed yet)

Maybe. Right now they are even. I'm not sure how that would effect the geometry if I offset that bushing. I'm guessing not much, but what do I know?

[metalmaker12]

I will post mine, I got them in ok with aluminum arms.

[RM1SepEx]

take the bushing off the arm, place it on the lower bracket and see if you can slide it under the top bracket, i'm willing to bet you a cold one it will not fit.

see page 71 of the build manual for the cad drawing for proper orientation of the bushing it is 2 5/8 tall.

On page 79 it states

The rear of the control arm bolts to the top of the bottom bracket and the bottom of the top bracket. The
inner set of holes is for the WRX sedan arms and the outer is for the 2.5RS and Wagon.

did you check out my thread and photos?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...d-Thread/page2 post 60, how do your's compare?

As far as I can tell EVERYONE has bolted them on top! Clamp your bushing on the top of the bracket... I just filled the space with a 1/4 inch Aluminum spacer

If you use the short arms, you can't put them on the top w/o cutting the bracket and ruining your powder coat... AND you can't upgrade to the much prettier aluminum arms OR ever convert the car to track setup...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I don't know if this helps. It is a picture from SEMA 2012
Bob
586.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

Sort of related: what hardware did you use to mount the top a arms RM1? The manual didn't specify.

Page 79

1/2 - 20 1.75 flange head and locknuts, I'd give you the PN but that stuff is in the garage and I don't want to go back out... I need to stop playing for the night!

Bob most of ours don't fit under like that but yes that is what the manual says tho the bushing is flopped over in the cad drawing so the jiggle in the bushing is on the top

Dan

[GUNS]

I don't know if this helps. It is a picture from SEMA 2012
Bob
586.jpg

Mine do not fit like that. The holes will not line up.

[GUNS]

Got this from FFR today in regards to the LCA bushing issues. I'm about to go into the garage and continue cutting as I have a lot of that "gusset" to trim.

[GUNS]

Ok, got the driver side done!


Began by cutting and grinding the tab or "gusset" that hangs down and gets in the way:






I then had to widen the bolt holes to allow the bushing to align correctly:


I plan on touching up the bare metal with gloss paint. Don't mind the areas where the Dremel got away from me.





Now I just have to rinse and repeat the other side.

[Nuul]

Very nice, that looks much better mounted that way.

[Mechie3]

Before AND after pics? Awesome!

I plan to do this tonight. I don't have front springs yet anyways so I've been working on other areas in the meantime.

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, please try my broom handle trick and see how well aligned you can get your arms, I'm interested to see how well it works with the steel arms.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...d-Thread/page4 post 124

[metalmaker12]

Broomstick lol your too funny, it prob works though. Noticed you did not even try to ask me,, I will got get a flame thrower ready lol.

[RM1SepEx]

I thought you had AL arms... I am interested in your measurements re this test

Did you try the fuel tank yet? I'm about to take mine out of the box...

[GUNS]

Update to the damage done during shipping. FFR will be replacing my rear bumper. Stewart will be doing a swap out the next time they are near by. Both companies were great to deal with during this and it took very little effort on my part.

[ehansen007]

That is great to hear! Good for you man. I can only imagine getting your kit after two years of waiting only to find out it's damage! . It happens though and it's great to hear they are backing it up. Doesn't surprise me either.

[GUNS]

Front firewall sealed & riveted:

[Mechie3]

Does your panel for the clutch cylinder sit flush? Mine is 1/2" off even with the sides all bottomed out.

[RM1SepEx]

what do you mean "sit flush"? mine looks just like gun's only in black

[metalmaker12]

Mechie mine was off as well, actually put my spacers, one on inside, one on outside

Btw guns, really like it bro!! Nice

[GUNS]

Does your panel for the clutch cylinder sit flush? Mine is 1/2" off even with the sides all bottomed out.

No, but this is mostly caused by user error. I messed up the panel that the clutch MC bolts through and the one to the left of it as you are looking at it. I drilled these before I had the manual and thought that the clutch panel had to overlap the flange on the panel next to it. It's actually suppose just line up next to it. I noticed this after I drilled and figured it wasn't a big enough deal to justify drilling more holes. I test fit the clutch MC and it still fits fine and you won't notice it when it's all bolted together.

I actually thought mine was not able to be centered, but I was able to finagle the panels enough to get it to line up, but this was after I had drilled.

RM, by flush he means having the panels centered over the chassis holes.