Fraser's Coupe "Re-Build"

[jethro13]

IMG_20130405_172550_176.jpgI have quite a few pictures to reduce in size and then post on the NorthRacecars AC installation, SpeedHutt custom speedo, dash and other work I've completed since March. I will post this picture from Last Friday at a local car meet (Ruby's in Redondo Beach, CA) where I was parked next to a HUGE yellow late model Dodge Daytona. Pretty funny actually. I was the only FFR car on hand, and I literally had to walk away from the car to take a break from talking to the constant crowd around the coupe. That, and there was a couple first gen camaro's I had to see. These Daytona cars really really get attention.

[Fluge]

Thanks for posting all this...very helpful. Looking forward to the A/C info... Getting close to installing the evaporator.

Marc

[jethro13]

IMG_20130327_141506_376.jpgIMG_20130327_144449_894.jpgAfter an initial conversation with Richard at NorthRace cars I started my AC installation. The kit arrived with pretty much everything I needed except the ball$ to cut into my firewall. With some guidance, advice, and a couple 12oz'ers of liquid courage I cut in from the passenger seat with a 4.5" grinder using a metal cut wheel. It was really easy, I just neglected to cover up my engine and such so sprayed aluminum dust/shavings everywhere - note to those going down this road. I cut the opening a tad shorter than recommended, placed the unit in, checked for clearance front (outside of firewall into engine compartment) and inside (under dash with room for the hoses etc.) and mounted the system with the supplied hardware. This was the hardest part of the install, everything else was really really easy. I made a cardboard template for the plenum, and two more for the triangle end caps. This fab. I outsourced to a local shop that had a sheer and brake. Cost was $75 for work + meterials - and they made my center piece that connects my lower dash to the trans tunnel (you will see this on my dash install later). Picture is the unit installed into the dash, and measuring where to cut holes in the end caps for the high pressure lines.

[jethro13]

Next was where to install the condenser and compressor. The condenser required mounts so I used 2" angle aluminum for the job. I positioned the unit toward the passenger side of the car with the hard lines attached so that I could do this once, not three times. I measured up, cut the angle for what I was doing, and bolted it in - pretty straightforward. On the driver's side I ended up mounting my horns onto the mount as it was much cleaner than their previous location.

[jethro13]

The compressor just bolted right up, my setup already had room for it as I'm not running a power steering pump, and was already using a March pulley kit that matched the belt setup on Richards kit. I painted up the mounts blue to match my recent engine dress-up. After it was in, I used a moto-cross tie down strap and measured up how much pulley belt I was going to need. I bought 4 belts from Napa, ended up going with the 3rd largest one that was larger than my measurement. So when you measure, buy sizes above and below as recommended in Richard's instructions. The hoses you see are not yet crimped in, just getting everything ready as I go to make sure things clear and i don't need more hose than provided.

[jethro13]

There was a small aluminum mount strap for the Dryer in the kit, but I opted for something more substantial. I poached a coil mount from one of my Camaro's and stretched it out just a bit to mount up the Dryer. I bolted it through the passerger side footbox. This placement was chosen after trying several different potential hose and fitting configurations from the evaporator/core box out to the Dryer, then forward to the condenser. These pictures show everything mounted up, wired in safety switch, and after I had measured cut and crimped the pressure lines.

[jethro13]

Two more calls to Richard to make sure I understood the diagrams and necessary fittings, I laid out the hoses for cutting. After all the pieces were mounted up, I used the fittings (all supplied in the kit) that worked the best for my setup. I ran the big (#10) hose from the evaporator/core along the firewall, behind the engine, and up along the passenger footbox to the compressor. This was the cleanest for my config. The line from the compressor to evap. (#8) ran down, forward just around my radiator overflow, forward of the X brace and on top of my manual steering rack, then to the lower hard line that comes out near the Pass. side suspension. The (#6) line from the Dryer forward I ran on the small tubing all the way to a small 90 fitting coming off the top of the evap. Hope this makes sense if you have any specifics you can call me or ask here - I usually check in once a week or so. After cutting up and double checking I ran the hoses and fittings to my local AC guy, $25 to make all the crimps.

This week I will take the car back to the local old-school AC shop, pressure test, fill it up, test it, then install the Plenum end-caps.

[jethro13]

Earlier in the process, I ran two heater hoses (both from NAPA with 90's built in) from the water pump back to the Core. I cut the top hose just behind the Carburetor to install the cable activated on/off valve for letting hot engine water into and out of the heater core. I ran the cable through a small grommet in the firewall, back under the dash, and will mount up on my center console next to the AC and Fan control switches.

[jethro13]

The parts that are not included in the kit and up to you to figure out are the Defrost vents. There's too many different ways to do this, so Richard leaves that up to you and your build. I'm still waiting for them to arrive from http://www.oldairproducts.com and when they do, I'll remove my dash (its temp. installed with just two screws) cut the holes, run all the vent hose, and re-install the dash again. For now, the electronics are all hooked up, the fan blows, heat comes out if I pull the cable (to open the valve) and I will know if the AC setup works after we test and charge it and I hookup the wire to the compressor. More on that after it happens.

[jethro13]

Mailman came a couple weeks back with my new GPS Speedo from SpeedHutt, who makes the gauge kits for FFR. I wanted their GPS speedo mainly for LED turn signal and High beam indicators built into the unit so I didn't have to run big ugly turn signal lights/indicators in my dash. I also prefer to GPS for ease of install (no speedo cable, speed sensor, or other potential fail points), and you get 1/4 mile trap times, lap times, max speed, and to change the text from FFR to "Type 65 Daytona Coupe." Here's a picture, I'll post more when it is installed into the car with new dash and AC vents. I also had them convert my temp gauge from Celsius to Fahrenheit as I love metric, but have grown up looking at F in my old cars - so C is confusing. In addition I'm replacing the clock with an Oil temperature gauge. Driving this car i really don't need to keep time.....I guess its in the kit for esthetics. The temp conversion, replacing a couple glass lens etc. cost me under $25 from them and they turned around my gauges in 7 working days. Thanks SpeedHutt!!

[loeffler1]

jethro13

I would not mount the dryer on the passenger front footbox. Too close to the headers. I mounted mine much more forward near the front suspension on the 1" bar that runs forward. Also imsulated the AC hose that runs back by wrapping exhaust tape around the hose and bar where it runs over the exhaust header area. My 2 cents.

[jethro13]

good call Bill. I'll see if I can re-locate it forward.

[jethro13]

A while back, I replaced my HEI distributor with a Pertronix Flame Thrower III. Short version: I could never get it to fire/run/spark and went back to the HEI for the time being as it works great despite its bad looks and cumbersome nature. We spent a weekend tracking down everything in the wiring setup: net net is that off of the battery, even on off of a direct + post separate wire, i'm only getting 10.5v under crank. This is enough to power my HEI (through the un-buffered Ron Francis ign wire that also gets a clean full 10.5v), but according to Pertronix, not enough for their FT III - on paper it needs full 12v. A couple phone calls later they say it should work fine with 10.5v - and while that's great in theory - applied it doesn't work..... Looking a a few Chevy and Ford forums, I see folks saying the FTIII needs a full 12v, and the earlier modules (FT I and FT II) can work fine with 8-11v under crank, yet according to some, they are prone to no warning failure. I'm running a smaller Optima w/450 crank amps, and its 15lbs vs a full size 25lbs unit. I'm not going to change my battery since its helping with the car's balance where it is located now.

I sent the FT III dist. and coil back to Pertronix early last week, they have had it since Wednesday, and have heard nothing back at this point so my confidence is low. Hope I can swap the module to an FT II and get it going. Otherwise I may have to run a small triangle air filter or custom fab. an air cleaner to work with my HEI distributor, or consider another setup as well. Either way, I need to sort it out by next Monday as I need to get this thing to a dyno shop and get it fully dialed in for some back-roads hard driving before it goes to Willow Springs May 11th. Has anyone run the newer Pertronix FT III module or distributor successfully?

[jethro13]

Pertronix quickly turned around my Dizzy within a week of receiving it and they said it had a bad igniter and replaced it. We'll see how it works/lasts this week. On tap is to re-locate the AC drier as Bill suggested, install a splined QR steering wheel kit + Grant wheel I picked up from Jegs, run the GPS and oil temp wires, install Defrost vents, then put back the dash, test AC fan, if all good press/test and charge system. Then I will have left to do is install the oil pan from NorthRacers, Dyno the car (to get the correct ign. timing + carb adjustment). My brakes are pretty sketchy and I need to go through the front calipers to make sure they're not sticking (since the car sat for 3 years before I got it) and running the little GT single piston brakes out back. Looking at my F/R weight ratio (keep reading) I need much more braking in rear. After all that -then the car should be good to go willow springs the 17th, so I need to get myself working. Last Week I had the car's initial suspension set up by Johnson Alignment in Torrance, notorious local Porsche racers, for street and weekend track days - aligned, height adjusted, and scaled. They really liked the car, with exception of the F/R balance. Car is a$$ heavy 45/55% (even with my front mount battery!!) as predicted and chunky at 2,375lbs with a full tank of fuel, less driver. They put 190lbs in the driver's seat and you can see the results below. No problem for the street, and this is where this car will see most of its action anyway.

[CraigS]

I'd love to know how Pertronix thinks any normal car will have 12.0 volts while cranking. A fully charged battery in good condition will be 12.6 and in more normal use one would see 12.4. I predict they will have a lot of problems if that is actually a true requirement.

[jethro13]

I agree Craig, my 67 camaro with a Full size new Optima, stock LS1 starter (low draw) and no accessories (fuel pump disconnected) on pulls it down to 10.7v under crank. If I saw that fine print on the advertised specs (not the actual instructions) I would have bought their older system, or MSD but not the FT III. I'll pop in the new one this week, even if it works I'll be concerned with its future.

[jethro13]

Petronix system fixed, they had sent me the wrong Coil. New coil will fire up the car, and it runs great. I have not driven it since September just to complete the registration, and have decided to sell the car

[jethro13]

I finally had a moment and figured out how to seal up the small edges of the headlamp lenses where they still leaked a bit of water when I'm washing the car. I used Black Pinstripe tape, and it was sooooo easy and clean you really can't tell its there. I just carefully ran in around the edge of the door trim (see previous posts) that I had on the lense, and the bucket's edge. Here's a picture:

[jethro13]

P1010039.JPGP1010036.JPGP1010034.JPGI recently added white stripes and 1/2 white rear section to the Coupe. I used 3M vinyl (actually, a professional did....not me) stripes, and I sprayed plasti-dip on the rear as the pro's didn't want to deal with the small inserts etc. on the rear section. Both turned out great, and have given the coupe it's personality that was lacking.

[Joe Friday]

Hi Jethro is your car for sale?

[esff32]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replica-Kit-...US_Cars_Trucks