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Thread: Mechie3's 818S

  1. #1361
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    Craig, i got the louvers today abs they look great. What is the preferred technique to evenly bend each vane?
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  2. #1362
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    I usually try and use my middle finger on the bottom of the vane and then my thumb on the top and push to rotate it. If the frame starts to flex too much put one side in a vice. If the other end flexes too much while in a vice clamp a small piece of wood to it then bend the vanes.
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  3. #1363
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamra View Post
    We should meet up at nationals! It'd be great to meet you.
    Definitely. I'll be there Monday through weds. Likely wearing a Zero dB shirt. Just listen for the obnoxious sounding Fmods and I shouldn't be too far away.

    I placed an order for the fender top louvers. Turn around is typically 1.5 weeks. I'll make a thread when they're ready. I made two sets and Chad message me this weekend so I sent him the other pair. Guess he's sticking around after all.
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  4. #1364
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Definitely. I'll be there Monday through weds. Likely wearing a Zero dB shirt. Just listen for the obnoxious sounding Fmods and I shouldn't be too far away.

    I placed an order for the fender top louvers. Turn around is typically 1.5 weeks. I'll make a thread when they're ready. I made two sets and Chad message me this weekend so I sent him the other pair. Guess he's sticking around after all.
    Sticking around until someone wants the car bad enough
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
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  5. #1365
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    Ok...no zooming in on these not pretty looking welds. I repurposed the FFR seat mounting brackets and made some harness mounting tabs. Two mount on the outside of the sheet metal with a hole through the cockpit aluminum to fit the bolt. A short spacer will make sure the belt doesn't rub. The other two mount outside of the tunnel aluminum but a hole will need to be made to access the bolt head.


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  6. #1366
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Awesome! I need to copy that idea.

  7. #1367
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    OOOPS, I zoomed my mistake :-)
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  8. #1368
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    That's about where I welded mine too. I made mine out of 3/16 steel stock.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  9. #1369
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    I would rather have a strong weld than a good looking one any day of the week. JMO.

  10. #1370
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Presley View Post
    OOOPS, I zoomed my mistake :-)



    Haha. Wallace, I hit it with a mini sledge a few times and it didn't budge. Flexes less than the harness bar, so it's probably good to go. Here's hoping I never have to truly find out.
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    I am glad I did a search for rivnuts and it took me to this build thread. I was thinking about my future build and was thinking why isn't anyone using rivnuts for all the panels that could be removed for better access to other assemblies. I do not think needed on the firewalls?
    Mechie3. If you were to do it all over again would you go to the extra work of using counter sunk rivnuts in the frame ? Also wondering if you used any rubber or foam stripping etc to seal the removable panels when installed but still easily removable. No silicone sealant for me on anything removable!!

  12. #1372
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    I drilled and tapped the thicker tubes 10-32 vs rivnuts, but everything is removable, I've had to put the body on and off multiple times
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  13. #1373
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    The front firewall and much of the cockpit aluminum can be riveted in place as it doesn't need to be removed. The rear firewall and the body makes sense to be easily removable if for no other reason than to be able to inspect things (such as all those hoses that run inside the body). For the center tunnel I cut it apart (Dan's idea) and am making a separate top that bolts in. The sides are riveted in. Countersunk rivnuts would be useful in some places but not totally necessary. I'm using low profile 10-32 rivnuts that don't have much height anyways.
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  14. #1374
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    For the center tunnel I cut it apart (Dan's idea) and am making a separate top that bolts in. The sides are riveted in.
    I did exactly that recently. I missed that anyone else had, but I'll still consider it my idea too!

  15. #1375
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Lee, I did it in 2013..
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  16. #1376
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    Lee, I did it in 2013..
    Yeah... I'm slow, I know. When anyone asks how my build is going all I can say is "If you want to build a car fast, don't buy a house". My wife wants an epoxy floor in the garage... and 818 is still up on jackstands!

    Craig actually has an earlier kit than I do, but he has better excuses for not getting on the road yet: a young child and making all those cool ZDM parts for us!

  17. #1377
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    My kit's early too, health issues, life in general and my latest venture a 10KW solar panel install. I installed it with friends, bought the materials myself and trailered them 2 hrs home and saved $11,000 on the local solar installer's quote, even when he was offering a 10% discount! Just finished the wiring today, total time 49 man hours. Will be online as soon as the power company can install the double meter system for net metering. Final cost less than $2 a watt installed.

    I'm getting closer, my engine has some gremlins to debug and the second body install is ongoing. Add that to Craig's parts! I may never really finish! I've started fixing jell coat voids etc in hopes of a no paint build. What a PITA
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  18. #1378
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    Been a busy day. Months and months of work came to a point at a design review today. Made it through pretty well. 4 hour meeting cut down to 2. Awwww Yiss!

    Anyways....here's what I've been working on for Chad since Sunday. I made the mistake of teaching my intern to run the CNC and now all he wants to do is make parts for work related projects. Makes it harder to make non work related stuff during lunch.

    Being held up from underneath:


    All these photos have it sitting on top so I could step back a little:





    Wider view. It'll have one on both sides. I had only finished one side by last night.
    Last edited by Mechie3; 07-23-2015 at 03:23 PM.
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    Now that is cool and should be pretty effective!

  20. #1380
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Yeah awesome! Let's start a group buy!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
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  21. #1381
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    My favorite piece you have developed... Now finish your car!!!
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  22. #1382
    Senior Member Flamshackle's Avatar
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    very cool!

    I keep thinking that the coupe will need something like this to get the hot out.
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  23. #1383
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamshackle View Post
    very cool!

    I keep thinking that the coupe will need something like this to get the hot out.
    I have a feeling that coupe is going to be super hot. I would not want to be one of the first guys getting it for sure.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
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    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  24. #1384
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    As long as coupe is moving.the duct on roof should help A lot. Plus the ducts in the rear quarter glass. Overall, when the coupe is moving, it should be very well cooled. Not to mention the more streamline air vectors should probably help side vents and some lower rear bumper vents like Chad is putting in should move air better.

  25. #1385
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbjones121 View Post
    As long as coupe is moving.the duct on roof should help A lot.
    The prob is you're not always moving... so what do you do then?
    Frank
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  26. #1386
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    For AWIC equipped cars only I assume.

    It seem drawing hot engine compartment air up would be counter productive for air cooled ICs???

  27. #1387
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    The prob is you're not always moving... so what do you do then?
    Yes true, but when you are pushing your engine hard, you are not sitting still.

  28. #1388
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    Sorry, this is getting off topic. ....Craig the new louvers look great. can't wait to see both of them mounted.

  29. #1389
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    Fred's, unless you have a sealed duct (Hoses or full ducts like a Porsche 911 sealed off on inlets and sealed on top of intercooler) these vents would vent all of your incoming air before it got to the tmic. These would cross over the top of the FFR stock setup and all incoming air just goes right out.
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  30. #1390
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    I have a feeling that coupe is going to be super hot. I would not want to be one of the first guys getting it for sure.
    It is going to be very hot in there. If I were to go coupe I would put the intercooler up near the roof scoop, and have airflow go through a vent above the rear glass. I would box it off from engine heat and have fans suck the heat out the engine bay to limit heat soak. This should work. The tmic in stock location will heat up and inmo won't work. Remember it is direct air pressure to ic we need to achieve with limited heat soak. The wrx factory setup with stock boost and timing barely works right with thousands of hours of testing.
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  31. #1391
    Senior Member Flamshackle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    The prob is you're not always moving... so what do you do then?
    Same thing they do in the front of a Subaru. Exit the turbo Heat through the the scoop.
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  32. #1392
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Fred's, unless you have a sealed duct (Hoses or full ducts like a Porsche 911 sealed off on inlets and sealed on top of intercooler) these vents would vent all of your incoming air before it got to the tmic. These would cross over the top of the FFR stock setup and all incoming air just goes right out.
    Hi Mechie, My post wasn't really a question, but a caution to air to air intercooler guys. As you probably read in several of my posts, I have completely isolated the input air side of my stock intercooler from the engine compartment. In my case, if your louvers were reversed and actually "scooped" air into my car that would help get more cold air through the intercooler. I suspect however that the area above the humps is a low pressure area and your louvers will function as you intend them to, to remove hot air from the engine compartment in general.

    fred

  33. #1393
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    Got some work done this weekend. Splitting some time between 818 and F500.

    Welded in the last mount for the harness and got all of them primed. Will be painting them tonight. The Ebrake cover still fits, so that's good.



    Made a partial rear firewall. The lower section was already covered before putting in the motor. This covers just the middle. The idea was that the left and right side sections are needed for routing hoses, wires, etc. The middle isn't used (andthe top of the middle is covered by the large thick firewall) and this prevents hoses and wires from vibrating and getting caught in the alternator belt. I need to make it thicker. it was .040" material, what I had on hand. It will pop too much. Maybe make it from .0625 or .09. I'll probably mount my ECU on it as well.


    Finally finished cutting out the other hole in my hood for my larger louvers and got the trunk cutout as well (no pics).


    Updated my front hinge to the latest design. Now I can put all my front sheetmetal back together.


    We'll see how progress goes. Need to paint the harness mounts and then I can put 1/2 the body back on, take a pic, and send it all off to register the car (no inspection ). Have a two day autocross this weekend and took apart the front suspension on the F500 to do some work. Needs new ball joints, rubber pucks, turning down the rotors, already changed the clutch belt and need some carb work too. Next week I'm gone for ANSYS training so that'll slow stuff down.
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  34. #1394
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    I like your floor harness mounts and will be copying :-) Also, I use ANSYS regularly in case you have any questions feel free to shoot me an email.

  35. #1395
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    I used ANSYS back in college before it was a solidworks plugin. It's funny, I took the STR/Explicit training, but not the base training. ha!

    Almost forgot, I made a front AWIC core mount template yesterday and a template for mounting the AWIC pump as well.
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  36. #1396
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Great work as always! I really like the rear hump louvers, and IMO they look better mounted on top.
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  37. #1397
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamshackle View Post
    Same thing they do in the front of a Subaru. Exit the turbo Heat through the the scoop.
    True, natural exit.
    The option I prefer for now is what Porsche does, an air sensor in the engine bay and when it goes over a certain temp, it triggers fans to run and get the hot air out, on an after-run.
    In fact, I have a plan for after-run cooling, using some VW stuff and maybe Porsche. I fear heat soak a LOT, so I'll go overkill on that.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  38. #1398
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    Made the bracket for the bosch pump last night. It's just a simple piece that uses two of the frozenboost pump mounts (simple sheet metal bracket, rubber isolators, and Tbolt clamp) and allows them to hang off the side of the frame rail so I can get the best positioning for the hoses.

    Humble cardboard beginnings:






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  39. #1399
    Moonlight Performance
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    Nice!

  40. #1400
    Senior Member FFR-ADV's Avatar
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    Very nice! I hope you make this part available to us.

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