With the body at the paint shop for the next 4-6 weeks, I thought I would start on the wiring. I'm using the Ron Francis harness, Russ Thompson turn signal assembly, Smith gauges (got the 7 gauge kit from Peter Bayer at Nisonger), rectangular tail lights (**********), Lucas switches and Optima 34R Red Top battery. I'm waiting on a glove box kit and dash vinyl from Alex Dailey so just installed the switches, gauges and lights in the bare dash for the wiring mock up. Pretty much followed the instructions in the RF manual for all of the gauges. Once I had that completed, I fitted the dash in the car and started connecting the various switches.
I had purchased a Lucas ignition switch (with no ACC - I later found out Lucas does make an ignition switch with an ACC connection for $50). The RF harness had ring terminals on the switch wires but the Lucas ignition switch had spade terminals. Posted on the forum as to handle the "spare" ACC wires in the harness but got no answers. I then decided to just buy a RF ignition switch (from Summit Racing) which is probably safe to say a more reliable component than the Lucas one. Also, it had male thread stud connectors so it was very easy to attach all of the switch wires (RF switch has ACC connector). Fortunately it fit the 3/4" hole I had made in the dash for the Lucas switch.
I had wired the relay and mini starter I bought from Mark Reynolds exactly as was illustrated in the RF manual but got nothing when I turned the key. Researched the forums and found similar posts and a member had posted a picture of the suggested wiring layout. The relay has two large posts and one small one. I had run the cable from the battery and the wires from the alternator, ignition and fuse panel to one of the large post and the cable from the mini starter to the other post. The small post held the wire from the clutch safety switch that I had modified to a push button under the dash.
The revised layout per the forum post had the cable from the mini starter moved to the same post as the cable from the battery. They had then run a #12 wire from the large post to the small post on the starter solenoid. I changed my wiring to this layout and the starter ran but sounded like the gear was not engaging with the flywheel. I pulled the starter and saw some mark on the edge of the gear ring so thought maybe the starter gear wasn't engaging all the way. I took it to the local auto electric garage and the owner tested it and showed me that it was working properly. I explained to him how I had wired it and he told me both of the large cables should not be on the same post. He told me to move it back to how I had it and he would add a jumper wire from the large cable post on the starter solenoid to the small one (see pic). I put the starter back on the engine and tried starting it again, For a second or two, the starter didn't engage but then it caught and now works fine. I need to add coolant and gas to the tank and the engine will be ready to fire.
I did get lucky and the wipers worked correctly on the first try of the switch. I had followed the diagram that came with the wiper kit and no problems. I temporarily connected the headlights and front and rear turn signal lights. The front and rear light connectors are WeatherPack units which makes it a little tricky to temporarily connect wires to them for testing. I took some 18-20 gauge butt connectors and pushed the metal connector out of the plastic housing. I connected one end to the various light tail pieces and was then able to push the connector over the pins inside the WeatherPack connectors. Worked pretty good and the fit was tight enough to hold them in place.
I'm using the rectangular tail lights so I had to modify the wiring since the light only has a single, double filament bulb. I wired the tail light so one bulb filament was for the tail/park lights and the turn/brake used the other filament. Actually it was simple....just put a double tail on the wire that was connected to the taller filament (which was the less bright of the two filaments). Works perfectly with the Russ Thompson turn signal setup and the stock pedal brake light switch. Since the rear of the light is open, like many members I made a rear cover for the light. I made out of fiberglass and lined it with silver foil tape that is highly reflective. Also, I replaced the stock 1157 bulbs with some RF Bright Bulbs that are 25% brighter.
I did have a problem with the 4-way hazard switch I installed. It kept interfering with the regular turn signals. Turns out the Lucas toggle switch I was using wasn't a DPST switch which is what's required. Researching the forum I found out that you can use a SPST simple ON-OFF switch if you install some diodes in the turn signal wires. I also discovered that Lucas doesn't make a DPST toggle switch so that option is off the table. However, I had a spare wiper switch so played with it for a few minutes and got it to work without any modifications other than you have to move the toggle twice to active the 4 way flasher (the wiper switch is a OFF-ON-ON unit).
I was real happy that I had installed a Moroso heavy duty battery disconnect switch in the trunk. It allowed me to easily disconnect the battery when I was playing with all of the wires behind the dash. I'm not making any permanent connections since I have to pull the dash to cover it. Also, while the dash is in place. I've been mapping out the best way to route the wires. The large plug connectors on the end of the dash harness and main harness really get in the way.
Sorry for the long post. Hopefully something here will be a help to someone. The extra wires in the battery pic are for the Battery Tender charger. I just have to plug it in to the connector tied to one of the frame tubes. Works great.
Ron
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