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Thread: Carl's Mk 4 Roadster Build

  1. #241
    2bking's Avatar
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    I like the squared off bottom for extra room. That's an idea I haven't seen before. Is that alodine on your aluminum? If so, are you doing that at home?
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  2. #242
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    King,

    No alodine...just dirt.

    I will cover the inside with leather and treat the outside with SharkHide.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  3. #243
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Dash Progress Sort of Slow Going

    It has been a while since I have updated the build thread ... because it has been a while since I have really felt like I had made some progress.

    With the wiring done in the front and the rear of the car I needed to tackle the dash next but to get the wiring done I needed to get the glove box finished and the dash covered ready to mount the gauges and switches.

    The glove box door turned out to be difficult for me at least ... I had a lot of trouble getting the hinge system lined up correctly. After getting the configuration needed I installed the glove box using flush mounted rivets.







    I initially planned to just cover the dash with just the leather but after one false start (where I managed to really screw up a nice piece of leather), I decided to add some felt under the leather. Should have listened to the advice of those here ...

    Here is the end result ...



    Close up of the important end of the dash ...



    If all goes well tomorrow I will get the wiring done ...

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  4. #244
    2bking's Avatar
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    Carl, what did you do with the unused wires from the ISIS master cell?
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  5. #245
    Infinity Box
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2bking View Post
    Carl, what did you do with the unused wires from the ISIS master cell?
    Carl,

    The unused input wires going to the MASTERCELL connector are really easy to remove. Take a look at the front of the connector, the part that plugs into the MASTERCELL. There is a plastic retainer on the front. The A connector is clear. The B connector is grey/green. On the narrow side of the retainer, you can see a white plastic finger that holds it in place. Gently push on these fingers and the retainer will pop off.

    The grey strain relief is held closed by 4 plastic tabs. Use a small screwdriver to gently pop these up and open the strain relief.

    From there, you will see that the terminal at the end of each MASTERCELL input wire is held in place by a white finger under the area where the retainer was. Use that same small screwdriver to gently pry up on the finger. This will release the terminal and you can pull the wire out from the back of the connector.

    When you're done, snap the retainer back onto the front of the connector and close the grey strain relief.

    Jay
    Jay Harris
    Infinitybox, LLC
    http://infinitybox.com/
    Manufacturers of the INFINITYBOX Intelligent Wiring System

  6. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by VdubJoe View Post
    Thanks for all the info. I was wondering if it had a limp home mode.
    I am going to be using the Fast XFI and their dist. So that question is answered.

    Joe
    Guys,

    There is actually a "limp home" mode built into the ISIS System. Under the cover of the POWERCELLs, you will see a set of pins labeled Over-Ride Headers. These bypass all of the electronics on the POWERCELL board and give you a way to turn on the outputs in case of a catastrophic event like a damaged CAN cable. You take the address header jumpers and put them on these over-ride headers to turn on your mission critical outputs like lighting, ignition and starter solenoid.

    Jay
    Jay Harris
    Infinitybox, LLC
    http://infinitybox.com/
    Manufacturers of the INFINITYBOX Intelligent Wiring System

  7. #247
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Jay,

    Thanks for the inputs. Right now I am in the middle of wiring the dash...

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  8. #248
    2bking's Avatar
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    Jay,
    So....... If you remove the unused wires and decide to add a circuit back later, is there a schematic that shows pin numbers and wire color codes?
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  9. #249
    Infinity Box
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    Yes, there is a diagram on our website that shows which cavities on the input connector correlate to which inputs.

    You can easily put the wires back into the connector if you need to.

    Jay
    Jay Harris
    Infinitybox, LLC
    http://infinitybox.com/
    Manufacturers of the INFINITYBOX Intelligent Wiring System

  10. #250
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Wiring Questions?

    The dash wiring is coming together at last...but something I need to confirm:

    Wiring of the red "ignition" light and a one wire alternator: Research on the forums seems to suggest that the lamp is wired:

    - Red or Positive Wire: Switched or Ignition on ignition switch
    - Black or Ground Wire: Connect to Alternator one of two female spade connections under a black rubber cover



    The way it supposedly works is the ground is broken at the alternator when it is working breaking the circuit tuning the light off.

    Can someone confirm please?

    Thanks,

    Carl
    Last edited by carlewms; 09-17-2014 at 03:17 PM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  11. #251
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Dash Wiring Part 1

    I am finally nearing completion of the wiring of the dash ... between work and other things I finally got a round to it.

    I initially planned on doing a custom wire loom for the ISIS dash but after trying to connect the micro connectors together ... I gave up! Between the fat fingers and the aged eyesight, it became obvious that it would take me forever to make up those darn small connectors

    With the ISIS dash most of the wiring is low current/low voltage and, with the use of LED indicator lights and gauge lighting, the 12 V power is very low current as well. There is not any 12v power going through any of the Lucas switches, even the ignition switch.

    To make the dash easier to remove I am also putting all the ISIS controls on one connector, the low voltage and grounds on another connector so that only two are required to remove the dash from the car.

    Here are some of the components I used:

    Completely Insulated Sure Fit Female Connectors ... these have heat shrink completely covering the connector and solder that melts on to the crimped connection.

    Pre Crimped and "unshrunk" on the left and Post Crimped and "shrunk" on the right.



    McMaster-Carr Part Number: 9397K12

    The other connector that came in handy was this Molex female spade connector with a male connector on the side. These make jumping from one gauge or switch easier ...



    McMaster-Carr Part Number: 72065K52

    Because I am using one indicator light for the turn signals I also had to make the modification to add a diode in each of the positive wires going to the LED indicator.

    Radio Shack Part Number: 276-1661



    I found the EEA website had great tutorials on connecting diodes/resistors to wire to make sure the connection was sturdy.



    Here is the end result ...



    Installed on the dashboard ...



    The results in the next post ...

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  12. #252
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Dash Wiring - Part Two

    Here are some photos of the semi wired dash ... most of the wiring on the dash is completed except three of the switches on the left. The wires trailing in front of the dash will be connected to a single molex connector to allow for quick disconnect of the dash.



    I still need to neat it up some of course ...





    As a precaution I also checked continuity of the connections through the switches and the grounds.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  13. #253
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    X2 on that EAA site for soldering diodes... those guys building airplanes know all the tricks!
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  14. #254
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Dash Wiring - Part Three

    I continued wiring over the weekend...focusing on getting the the pins on the wires going to the MASTERCELL and trying to organize them a bit.

    I installed a 6 pin molex connector to the wires requiring power from the front POWERCELL:

    Ignition: Gauge Power (red)
    Parking Light: Gauge Needle Lighting, Gauge Lighting (white, white)
    Turn Signal Indicator Light: left, Right Turn Signal Lights (violet, brown)

    I re wired the wiper motor switch so that it is isolated and wired according to the ISIS instructions and the diagram I got off the forum for wiring the motor for park and high and low speeds. This is the only switch on the dash with 12v going through it on the dash.

    After further research I found the wiring and pin layout for the wiper switch and then checked for confirmation by checking continuity with the switch in different positions since there are no markings on the switch. The switch is off-on-on type with a Lucas Part Number: 32597. One frustrating "feature" of these Lucas switches is a total lack of marking on the components. These switch and wiper motor wiring drawings are courtesy of Holden Vintage and Classic in UK.

    Switch Wiring:



    Motor Plug Wiring:



    The other thing I learned ... The off position is with the toggle at the top position (at least as far as the diagram is concerned) so I am technically mounting the switch upside down (I wanted to have up signify "on" with the switch in the lower position being "off").

    The four wires for the switch are:

    Power or Hot: Ignition (red) which on ISIS comes from the Light green Output 3 from the front POWERCELL
    Fast Speed: Fast Speed (brown)
    Park: Park (white)
    Slow Speed: Slow Speed (yellow)

    From right to left in the photo below:



    I also found that I could create labels for the wires by using a small font on my label maker, then inserting the label inside some heat shrink to seal it on the wire. I doubt it is original idea ... but I found it cheaper than other methods and more durable. Here are the results:

    Here is the technique I used:

    1. Using Black on White label maker tape (or any other contrasting color combination), print the label in a font size suitable for the wire diameter. I used 10 pt font but 12 pt can work for 14-16 AWG sized wire;



    2. Trim the width tape down so the tape is about 1/2 to 2/3 the diameter of the wire;



    3. DO NOT REMOVE the backing and insert inside the heat shrink and position so the heat shrink so that it's slightly longer than the label...so it seals it up nicely;

    4. Insert the wire; and,



    5. Apply the heat to affix the label.



    I am stalled on finishing up the termination of the wiring to the MASTERCELL awaiting some more connectors to come in the mail.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  15. #255
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    Fantastic!

    With the wiper switch: nothing get attached to poles 1 and 7?
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

  16. #256
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Dale,

    Terminals 1 and 7 are connected and do not have any connections.

    Thanks,

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  17. #257
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlewms View Post
    Dale,

    Terminals 1 and 7 are connected and do not have any connections.

    Thanks,

    Carl
    Thanks, I just didn't understand what they meant by "connected".
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

  18. #258
    2bking's Avatar
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    I like the wire label method. It's a little late for me but would have used it earlier in my wiring. I printed the labels and used clear packing tape to attach them but the tape isn't very robust when subjected to chemicals and heat.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  19. #259
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    Carl-

    The wire labeling method is a terrific idea. Please forgive me in advance of stealing your idea!

    Your build is continuing to look great.

    Regards,

    Steve

  20. #260
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Dash Wiring - Part Four

    With the with all the traveling for business I have not had a chance to get out and work on the car is much as I would like. Here are some updates of the wiring harness installations and connectors are used to connect the sensors for the gauges, power and switch inputs to the MASTERCELL.

    The dash wiring is cleaned up and wire tied together to get it as neat as possible under the circumstances. Because of my lousy eyesight and fat fingers, I chose to leave some of the bulkier connectors and extra wire that came with the SpeedHut guages in place rather than build a custom harness for the guage power and lighting.



    After deciding to use Molex connectors between the dash and the different parts of the ISIS wiring harness, I settled on 5 connectors for the dash side of the wiring. The connectors used are:

    Male Connectors: Molex Standard .093" Male Crimp Terminals 22-18 AWG (02-09-2118C)
    Female Connectors: Molex Standard .093" Female Crimp Terminals 22-18 AWG (02-09-2119C)

    Windshield Wiper Switch: I decided to run this separately to the bulkhead connector since this was the only pure 12v switch on the dash.



    Plug: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Plug - 94V-2 (03-09-1042)
    Receptacle: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Receptacles - 94V-2 (03-09-2042)

    Low Voltage/Low Current: A fifteen pin connection was used to connect all the inputs and grounds to the MASTERCELL from the switches on the dash the dash. Since the MASTERCELL can be ruined by 12v power I wanted to make sure all its inputs were wired and ground separately.



    Plug: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Plug - 94V-2 (03-09- )
    Receptacle: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Receptacles - 94V-2 (03-09- )

    RT Turn Signal: The turn signal, high beams and flash to pass are connected at the base of the steering wheel through a molex 6 pin connector.



    Plug: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Plug - 94V-2 (03-09-1064)
    Receptacle: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Receptacles - 94V-2 (03-09-2061)

    Gauge and Indicator Lighting: A six pin connection was used to connect the 12v power side of the three indicator lamps, the dial and gauge lighting and the gauge power. The ground is on the left.



    Plug: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Plug - 94V-2 (03-09-1064)
    Receptacle: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Receptacles - 94V-2 (03-09-2061)

    Gauge Sensors: The gauge sensor positive and grounds are routed through a separate 18 pin connector. These are then fed to one side of the bulkhead connector which will serve as the one spot going through the firewall for all wiring.



    Plug: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Plug - 94V-2 (03-09-xxxx)
    Receptacle: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Receptacles - 94V-2 (03-09-xxxx)

    Some lessons learned about selection and use of the plugs and receptacles:
    1. Make sure you order the free standing version...not the panel mount version;
    2. You need equal numbers of plugs and receptacles...dont ask why;
    3. Order the right crimper and removal tools;
    4. Label the wires; and,
    5. Make sure to the to consistently use the terminators on one side of the plug ... all pins on one on the male on the plug and female on the receptacle for example.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  21. #261
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Dash Wiring - Part Five

    After getting the dash somewhat squared away ... I wired up the bulkhead connector to allow for the passage of wires through the firewall. After looking at several options to go through the firewall I decided to use a Weatherpack 22 position connector.



    The problem is that, while a great connector, it is very ugly. While not worried about the part inside the dash, the connection on the outside of the firewall would not look very authentic. I am solving that by fabricating a metal cover like the one on the originals.



    While the connector comes with multiple sizes of terminals and plugs the standard weatherpack parts work on the connector.









    Next ... finishing a couple of the connectors from the MASTERCELL and the starter/ignition wiring.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  22. #262
    2bking's Avatar
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    Very nicely done. The 22 pin Weather Pack was a nice find. You must be getting close to your first start.

    I'm using the "one button" start on my Infinity Box (name changed from ISIS) and had used a keyed ignition switch but didn't think it completely through as there are problems doing it that way. I ditched the ignition switch and ordered the "In Touch" key fobs and circuit board. With the fob I can turn on accessories without the fuel pump running and the ignition circuit active.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  23. #263
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    King,

    I did the following with the start button/ignition switch ... which I think will work.

    Instead of using Input 20 "One Button Ignition Start" to wire the button start switch, I wired Input 4 "Starter" to the button and wired Input 3 "Ignition" to the ignition switch. To start the car, the ignition switch must be in the ignition position and you have to press the button.

    I will know soon if this will work.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  24. #264
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    More Dash Work ...

    I have been slowly getting the wiring of the dash done.

    The main dash side is complete ... the firewall side needs a few more connectors added and then the harness cleaned up with braided shielding and tape (which will come after electrical testing).

    The last bit to wire in on the dash was the map light and the switch on the PS side of the glove compartment.



    Just below the dash I fabricated a panel to cover the MASTERCELL from the InfinityBox (Formerly ISIS) and covered it with leather to match the dash. The clock is mounted but the remaining switches for the two lights remain to be installed. I will probably install power ports on either side along with a USB charging port which will be wired directly to the battery so I can charge up the iPhone and iPad as needed.

    I purchased a panel to fill in the bottom of the dash as well but that will probably not be dealt with until I get ready to deal with the body fitment and definitely after testing is completed. Here are some photos:



    It looks a little bare above but when the additional switches and power ports are installed it will fill out a little. If I install a heater the controls for the heater will also be on this panel.



    The two grommets in the top of the transmission tunnel cover are for the CAN cable going to the rear POWERCELL in the trunk and other inputs from switches such as the storage bin and trunk lights.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  25. #265
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Mocking Up the Completed Dash, Under Dash Panel and the Tunnel Cover

    With the proverbial "honey do" list ... not as much progress this weekend as I would have liked but here is a quick up date.

    I installed the under dash panel ...



    The under dash panel is attached to the transmission tunnel cover and firewall using black sheet metal screws with countersunk washers. The section above will be ultimately covered by the transmission tunnel carpeting.



    Inside the space created by the under dash panel allows for routing of the wiring to and from the rear POWERCELL.



    I still need to decide on the switch positions to go on the under dash panel.

    Naturally I could not wait to get the rest of the dash at least on the frame to see what it all looked like.

    From the DS ...





    From the PS ...



    I next fabricated a bezel for the steering wheel shaft. Here it is before I polished it up to match up with the gauge bezels.



    The cutout at the top of the bezel is to account for the bezel on the Oil Temperature Gauge (since I had raised my steering column slightly to allow for more room). The cutout on the left is for the wiring from the Russ Thompson turn signal stalk.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  26. #266
    Senior Member dallas_'s Avatar
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    Carl,
    That's looking really nice. Can't wait to see it in person next spring!
    I see you've signed up for the TCC annual meeting.
    John
    FFR 7123 tilt front, Levy 5link/wilwoods/LCA's, webers.
    SL-C, LS3 525, Mendeola SDR5,

  27. #267
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    John,

    Thanks. Yes I am planning to attend with the car...although it may be in gelcoat.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  28. #268
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    OK, that's it! I'm not following this thread any more or I'll never finish my build; just too many great ideas and mods, Carl.
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

  29. #269
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Dale,

    Thanks...I am getting impatient with my own mods and delays... Oh well move forward.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  30. #270
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Carl,

    Your car is turning out great - keep up the good work and don't let the mod time give you grief... it's all worth it in the end!
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  31. #271
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    The Underdash ... almost finished Save one Failed Lucas Switch

    I started this weekend with lots of lofty goals … here is what I actually got done:

    After checking the clearance on the DS, the MASTERCELL interferes with the installation of the charging plugs on the PS so I installed the USB charging port and the 12v DC charge port only on the passenger side of the under dash.

    A hole saw 1 1/8 in diameter was used to cut out the holes. Here are the results:

    The 12V receptacle is to the right and the USB to the left where it will be easier to see the two ports inside the USB charger.



    The plugs/outlets are held in place by a ring (similar to the ones on the Speed Hut gauges). Here is work in progress on the inside of the under dash.



    The switch for the PS light was installed. The one for the DS light has already broken...LoL for Lucas. The switch is physically stuck between the on and off position. I ordered four more from Finish Line...three for spares.



    Other than the missing toggle switch, the under dash is fully wired up through the female side of the 15 pin Molex plug.



    I wanted power available at all times to the 12v DC and the USB chargers so they will be connected to the battery via an inline fuse and a separate 12 gauge lead to the battery.

    The lights are controlled through the toggle switches and the MasterCell and will only be available with the ignition switch in the on position.

    Everything is labeled including all the wiring leaving the under dash.



    Here is the finished side view



    The pin connection diagram for the 15 pin Molex connector is ...

    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
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  32. #272
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Details, Details and More Details

    After the new upgraded clamps arrived from Aircraft Spruce I started the process of cleaning up the wiring throughout the car.

    Louis (my aircraft mechanic brother) told me about the wiring clamps from Spruce Aircraft. The photo below shows the differences (the standard ones are on the left and the upgrades are on the right):





    The differences are a bit subtle...but important to me. The most important was the smaller diameter attachment hole which made using the proper attaching hardware easier. The second was the wedge that fully surrounds the wiring harness when installed. This also allowed me to use stainless steel sheet metal screws to attach to the frame instead of rivets; allowing access to the wiring in case of a future problem or to add a circuit. Aircraft Spruce Part # MS21919- WDG"x" is a different number depending on size.

    Here are some photos of the installation on the frame:

    Supporting the wiring for the trunk light, license plate light and the pin switch for the trunk light:



    Harness for the brake and parking lights:





    I also used self vulcanizing tape to protect the branch junctions on the harness where there is no braid installed. This tape, which took a little getting used to install, seals up the wiring nicely also giving the looms a more old school look. Unlike standard electrical tape it only sticks to itself so it can be removed without making a mess of the wiring beneath it.

    After running out of the right sized clamps I place another order which will arrive on Friday so I can wrap it all up over the weekend.
    Mk 4 Roadster
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  33. #273
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    I thoroughly enjoy reading your posts! Thanks for sharing.
    Regrettably, I fell behind on your thread and I’m catching up now.
    Your wiring skills are STUNNING! And the timing is great for me. My initial wiring is done and my roadster was painted in early Spring, so I put the body back on, before completing the dash. Now that the driving season is over, I’m pulling the body back off to finish covering the dash, tidy up my wiring, add some quick disconnects, and finish some other mods I came up with over the summer. After seeing your post, I just ordered a Dymo Labelmaker, I REALLY like your wiring and labels.

    Couple quick questions:
    1. Where did you order clear shrink tube? All I can find locally is black and a variety pack of red, blue, green. (do you have a part number?)
    2. What are you using for your ground buss (looks like you got them from DelCity?) and how did you mount it on the back of your dash?

    Thanks! Keep up the great work!
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  34. #274
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlewms View Post
    The one for the DS light has already broken...LoL for Lucas. The switch is physically stuck between the on and off position. I ordered four more from Finish Line...three for spares.
    Just something I learned... I have used the ********** SPST "Lucas" switches on both of my builds. Also had one fail outright and another stopped working after it was installed. I don't even remember how I learned about it, but noticed the ********** ones come in a generic white box. And the switches aren't marked. Started poking around and found that actual Lucas branded switches are in a green box, and the switches themselves have the Lucas logo. Found a website and company in England -- Auto Electric Supplies Limited -- that sells an actual branded SPST Lucas switch and also a knock-off for about half the price. Ordered several of the actual branded switches (not cheap, especially with the exchange rate) and they appear to be higher quality. Switched out the broken one on my Mk3, and proactively swapped the ones in my Mk4 before the body when on and they were hard to reach. Bottom line, I think the switches from ********** are knock-offs, and maybe not as good as the genuine Lucas ones. It that's possible. FWIW. Note this is only for the SPST switch. As best I can tell the wiper switch from ********** is an actual Lucas part.

    One other thing on your most recent post... Nice work. I thought I was the only one that obsessed about wiring details. (I know I'm not...). The replacement clamps you chose look nice. I found what I thought were improved ones at McMaster. I got a variety of sizes so they matched whatever cable size I was using. One suggestion. The cable run you put across the trunk hoop. Good idea, but personally I would rotate it 90 degrees, e.g. put the attachment on the bottom and the conduit on either side of the hoop. That way it's not hanging down into the opening. That opening is pretty small, and you will run into it frequently (at least I do) when loading in chairs, etc. Again, FWIW.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-12-2014 at 04:45 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  35. #275
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    MPTech,

    Here are the answers to your questions:

    1. Where did you order clear shrink tube? All I can find locally is black and a variety pack of red, blue, green. (do you have a part number?). This link is for the DelCity kit of translucent heat shrink which also has a glue that melts to seal up the connection.

    2. What are you using for your ground buss (looks like you got them from DelCity?) and how did you mount it on the back of your dash? It is from DelCity. My only complaint is the cover doesn't stay on that well but I am solving that with one wire tie.

    http://www.delcity.net/store/search/...p?item=80500DL.

    Thanks for the very encouraging words and compliments.
    Last edited by carlewms; 12-12-2014 at 09:36 PM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
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  36. #276
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    EdwardB,

    Thanks much...I went out to the garage and fixed the run along the trunk hoop so that the wiring runs on the front side of the hoop and the clamps are attached at the bottom...a lot better and more room.

    Although I am running much less current across the switches because of ISIS (now Infinity) I don't like that these knock offs failed for mechanical reasons. I have checked out a site in UK as well you might check out as well: Holden
    http://www.holden.co.uk/displayProdu...oggle+Switches
    Check out the video on how the convert their modern toggles using a custom bezel. I will check out the site you suggested as well.
    I think I will order the switches as well and replace as I get a chance.

    Again thanks for all sharing your experiences with us newbies.
    Mk 4 Roadster
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  37. #277
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    Thanks Carl! (didn't see the link for the clear tubing, but I think I found it. Clear Heat Shrink Tubing

    Am I looking at the right thing for the Buss Bar? $26.81?? yikes!
    so how did you mount the Buss Bars? (drill holes in the dash and use counter-sunk heads??)

    Thanks Again
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  38. #278
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    That is the correct heat shrink. Depending on how much you need there is also a kit with multiple sizes.

    The bus bars are expensive...but I didn't want scrimp when it came to grounds. I also like that there were two large points to ground to the frame. I installed three:

    Front: Top of the DS cross member. I had to contour the base to fit over the round tube.



    Dash: Just to the left of the speedometer. The one on the dash was mounted with Wellwood after roughing up the aluminum with 80 grit sandpaper (I had already covered the dash).

    Rear: On the rear vertical side of the lower IRS cage centerline.






    These bars allowed me to install two paths to ground using 10 gauge wire at each end.
    Last edited by carlewms; 12-12-2014 at 11:33 PM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
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  39. #279
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    Lucas Brand switches here: You just have to navigate around a bit. Or, call them.

    http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/Searc...WebCatalogID=0
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

  40. #280
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Dale,

    I used to order stuff from them when I had my MG ... Didn't even think of them this time.

    Carl
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