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Thread: Carl's Mk 4 Roadster Build

  1. #361
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Jeff,

    Thanks. It is not threaded so do I use a tap and cut threads into the cover or is there another solution?

    I am worried that the above solution would put debris in the engine oil pan.

    Carl
    Last edited by carlewms; 08-26-2015 at 08:02 AM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  2. #362
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    get a small freeze-type plug and press it in.

  3. #363
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Autozone Cannot Provide a 3 Turns Lock To Lock Power Steer Rack ...

    Although AutoZone has a registered slogan Get in The Zone with Autozone ...they left should take up a new slogan ... We Cannot Get it RIGHT in the The Zone.

    As you know I decided to convert from the FFR manual rack to a power steering rack ... the part number for the rack is Autozone or Durmast Part Number 6406 which is 3 turns lock to lock.

    The first rack ordered was shipped directly to the house ... it arrived damaged with a pinch in the the passenger side hydraulic line.



    I returned this rack to the local store and received a replacement rack ... instead of 3 turns lock to lock it was 2.5 turns.

    This rack was returned and today I went to pick up what was supposed to be the correct rack. This time I took a set of vice grips with me to check the turns ... Guess What ... 2.5 turns again ...

    I asked for my money back and I was told that since I did not have a receipt (although they had a tag on the box showing clearly who it was for and that I had paid) I was told I needed the receipt to get my money back or credited to the CC. They would give me a store credit (as if I would want to spend anymore money at their establishment). I would understand this if I was walking in their with the rack to return it but I do not understand it when they have the rack AND my money.

    Lessons Learned:
    1. The staff at the store said that although the part number was for a 3 turn lock to lock, they could not guarantee it so if your considering returning one to get the right one or your ordering a "new" one the odds are not in your favor that you will get the right one;
    2. The local staff is pretty much useless when trying to get anywhere beyond the computer screen. I am not blaming them ... they are just not trained correctly;
    3. If you do order, do as Jeff K suggested, check the lock to lock before leaving the store;
    4. While your at it check to see that there is no damage to the hydraulic lines;
    5. Pray that you will ultimately get the right part if you stick with Autozone; and,
    6. Order it from one of our vendors who really back up their sales.

    Sorry for the rant ... Rant over ... moving on.

    Carl
    Last edited by carlewms; 08-27-2015 at 09:54 PM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  4. #364
    2bking's Avatar
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    Carl, maybe the stars are aligned in your favor but you just don't know it. When I ordered my kit from FFR, Jason told me to get the 2.5 turn rack which I did. I doubt you will be able to tell much difference between the two ratios. If you think it's a little too twitchy when you drive it, dialing in a little more castor will help.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  5. #365
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Futzing Around in the Garage Again ...

    After the very frustrating experience trying to get a power steering rack from AutoZone ... I got out in the garage and got to hooking up some of the components on the engine.

    The FAST EZ EFI System: The throttle body was installed on the engine. There are only three connections to the throttle body on a returnless installation: 1) The coolant temperature sensor; 2) the fuel line; and the connection to the ECU through the main harness. MAF, IAC, etc are built into the throttle body.



    As part of the installation of the fuel line, the pressure sensor wire to the sensor is installed in the transmission tunnel (there is a ton of excess wire for the connector to allow for installation near the tank and on larger cars which I may diet down after I get everything running right).



    The main harness is hooked up to the ECU which is installed in the DS foot box (the location normally reserved for the Ron Francis fuse box. Shown in the "down" position, it swings up out of the way for normal use.



    The connection wandering off to down to the lower right is for the cable for the small hand held device to program the system.



    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  6. #366
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Nice! I've been thinking that I need to learn about these systems.

    Jeff

  7. #367
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    One Wire Alternator Installation ... Wiring

    I have looked through the threads for information on how to wire a one wire alternator ... and I am confused even more now (probably more paint fumes from the garage).

    Here is how I have it wired so far ...



    Is this correct?

    Thanks in Advance,

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  8. #368
    Senior Member jrcuz's Avatar
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    Carl,
    I'm enjoying your build progress, it looks great
    PS I think your engine install date might be off by a year
    JR

  9. #369
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    jrcuz,

    Thanks and the signature is now fixed.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  10. #370
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Looks good to me. Mine goes to the firewall solenoid just above the starter and has a cable to the starter. Same difference electrically.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  11. #371
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Hooking up the "stuff" ... Now That the Engine & Transmission Are Installed

    I also picked up some Stanley "L" shaped brackets to use for the base for the Adel clamps. This will save fabricating them from aluminum stock.

    I drilled out one of the holes and ground that side going on the engine manifold to match the contour where the manifold bolts are located. The six brackets were panted with POR-15 which will be top coated with high temperature engine paint which replicates a raw metal part.



    1/4" 20 1/2" bolts and lock nuts are used to secure the adel clamp to the bracket



    Eastwood's Bare Grey Steel Replication paint gives it the look of an older part while the POR15 protects the part from corroding...



    So far I have the installed the coil, the upper end of the hydraulic line for the clutch, installed the FAST EZ EFI throttle body.

    The fuel line to the throttle body is installed and the fuel pressure sensor in the line is installed and wired up. The couplings that come with the FAST are easy to install on the hose as long as you lubricate the hose a little; I used W-40. Here is view of the complete installation (the front of the car is toward the bottom of the photo).





    The hydraulic line from Fortes comes with a banjo fitting at the MC end.



    I feel like I am jumping around to targets of opportunity vice being very systematic in my approach to getting everything hooked up but I am still making progress. Some of this is brought on by missing parts that arrive in dribbles ... cause The Olde Goat orders them in dribbles.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  12. #372
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Coolant Overflow Tank Installation

    Saturday I awoke bound and determine to make major progress in the engine compartment...

    The 2 Qt Moroso overflow tank, which is quite large, required some thinking (I know dangerous) to get it into the limited space available. The F-Panels are filled with the electronics so that left the only place behind the radiator in front of engine to the Driver's Side (to allow getting to and pulling the battery).

    To installing the tank in this location required adding a support brace across the top of the x frame and relocating the horns. After purchasing a 1/8 in 1.5 x 1.5 in at the local ACE hardware, I cut and shaped it to fit over the welds and around other installed items like wiring and the brake lines.



    I tapped the flat part of the frame for 1/4" by 20 thread and attached the piece to the frame. The tank was then positioned to the DS and attached to the support brace using 1/4" x 20 - 3/4" bolts and lock nuts. I fabricated two brackets to provide a little more support for the upper part of the tank.





    The support brace will be primed and painted in gloss black to match the rest of the frame.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  13. #373
    Senior Member KDubU's Avatar
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    That is a big tank! Nicely done getting it installed. I'm looking at various tanks as well but figure I have time before having to order one. There is a really nice one from Billet Specialties but not sure if it's large enough. Great pics, I will learn a lot from your build.

    Also on the AZ subject, I've now returned two racks. One for the same damage you had and the second because it was leaking fluid. My third one is awaiting pickup, we'll see how this one fares.
    Kyle

    Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, Painted Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes on 03/15/2017. Sold in 08/2018 and totally regret it.

  14. #374
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    I chose the larger tank because of suggestions from the forum...some felt a 1.5 qt tank was not quite large enough.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  15. #375
    Senior Member dallas_'s Avatar
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    Carl,
    You know they have set the dates for the Texas Cobra Club spring meet right?
    FFR 7123 tilt front, Levy 5link/wilwoods/LCA's, webers.
    SL-C, LS3 525, Mendeola SDR5,

  16. #376
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dallas_ View Post
    Carl,
    You know they have set the dates for the Texas Cobra Club spring meet right?
    I did not but will check the site and add them to the calendar ... thanks.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  17. #377
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    More Wiring in the Engine Compartment ...

    Up early installing the horns on the brace installed to support the overflow tank. I aimed them forward for now. While they are mounted higher than before, I am still a bit concerned about water ingestion.



    Since I had removed the spark plug wires at the distributor during the engine installation, I needed to make sure I had the right firing order. Levy says it is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 counter-clockwise.

    I continued getting the MSD system wiring clean up into one loom to the engine coil, distributor and RPM output for the tachometer and the EFI system.

    The loom is routed up the same side as the power loom going to the aft POWERCELL and across to the PS of the engine keeping the DS clear for the mechanical throttle linkage. After routing the wiring to get all the cuts made to length, the wires were wrapped in wire loom and the ends wrapped with self vulcanizing electrical tape. The loom is supported at the rear of the engine on an Adel clamp attached to the engine on a custom fabricated bracket.

    Here is the work in progress ...



    I use the small wire ties to keep things together while running the braided material over the wires. The orange and white thing to the upper right hand corner is from DelCity and makes installing the braided loom a piece of cake.



    The ignition system wiring was joined up with the sensor wiring for the voltmeter, oil pressure and coolant temperature at the rear of the engine before being routed forward on the PS to the components and sensors.



    The coolant temperature sensor for the gauge is on the DS and the one for the EFI (shown) is on the PS. The latter is wired into the throttle body.

    Here are the results:







    The day ended after installing the wiring from the starter to the alternator ...
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  18. #378
    2bking's Avatar
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    Looking good Carl. I like the harnesses covered with the braid and if I had mine to do over, I would use the product. Where did you get it?
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  19. #379
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    King,

    I started with a Painless kit for an EFI based engine but ended up adding more from McMaster Carr.

    Thanks,

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  20. #380
    Senior Member dallas_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlewms View Post
    I did not but will check the site and add them to the calendar ... thanks.
    Just wanted to make sure you had it so we can see the finished product.

    Looking great, keep up the good work!
    FFR 7123 tilt front, Levy 5link/wilwoods/LCA's, webers.
    SL-C, LS3 525, Mendeola SDR5,

  21. #381
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    More Engine Compartment Stuff

    I finally installed the Delco multi pin connector in the firewall centerline low enough to clear the wiper motor mechanism and to the DS enough if I ever install a heater or air conditioning. It is ugly on the engine compartment side but it will ultimately be covered with a more period connect fiberglass or aluminum box.
    Engine Side



    Dash Side



    Reminder: The reason for not just routing the entire harness through the firewall was to allow the harness to be disconnected completely at one spot in case of future engine removal.

    I had thought I had the inside panel of the DS foot box temporarily in place but I installed the floor over the tab just below the horseshoe ... So now it is not coming back out. This has created some issues .... I had to expand the hole to pass through the EFI throttle body and the fuel pump power connectors as well as the hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder.



    Since I had forgotten to drill all the rivet holes (luckily most of them) were done I had to squeeze in a drill with angled bit holder to drill what I could reach. Installing the dynamat will be a little challenging but doable. I mocked up the inside side top of the DS foot box to make sure the top of the wall was in the right location and to make sure there was enough room for the mechanical throttle linkage post just inside the foot box. The panel is now permanently riveted to the frame.

    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  22. #382
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    The Ugly Delco Connector Gets New Clothes

    After finishing the box or cover for the electrical bulkhead connector I prepared the wiring from the engine compartment (sensors, etc.) to the connector. After making a paper template and cutting the aluminum sheet, the brake was used to bend the box.

    I got a little frustrated because I did not give myself as much slack wire as I should have for the installation so there may be a few do overs to get it right. Here is the mess I am trying to hide. The bulkhead connector is very useful because it allows all the engine compartment to dash wiring to be disconnected at one point...but it sure is ugly. The obvious solution was some type of removable cover that allows easy access to the connector and somewhat looks like it belongs on the dash.



    The cover was primed with three coats of grey primer and the top coated with 3 coats of Eastwood's Eastwood Detail Gray Paint (Part # 10036) although it really only required 2 coats. The color really comes grey with a hint of copper ... Close to the color of the 289 valve covers.







    Three 1/4 x 20 bolts and rivnuts are used to attach the cover to the firewall one on top and two on the bottom. With an 8 inch over hang just the front will actually be seen with the body installed. The wiring coming to the box will go through a hole in the bottom keeping the sides clean. Some molding was applied to the edge facing the firewall and the wire looms were run through grommets.on each side of the cover.



    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  23. #383
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Quick Update ...

    New Power Steering Rack from Breeze received and installed ... I just need to get the supply and return lines and install them;



    Painted and reinstalled the support bracket for the Moroso over flow tank and the horns;



    Shined up and installed the Moroso overflow tank;



    Reinstalled the horns so they are facing down and rewired them in parallel to clean up the wiring in braided loom and improve reliability (if the wiring to one fails I still have the other horn powered);



    Ron Davis radiator is installed permanently .... Well as permanently as anything on these beasts ever is;



    Mocked up the coolant hoses/pipes from the engine through the T-Filler to the upper side of the radiator. It was a good thing I had a bunch of hose laying around ... Lots of scraps and hose parts left around.

    Coolant to Radiator ....



    Coolant from Radiator ....



    Started mockup of the hood hinge assembly ....

    Individual posts and photos to follow ... When I get a chance.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  24. #384
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    A video of the completed coolant system hose/tube hookup ... the last bit to do is the overflow line to the Moroso over flow tank.

    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  25. #385
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Breeze Hood Hinge Installation Notes

    After finishing the painting of the hood hinge parts the night before (POR-15 plus two coats of Semi Glass Black), I got them installed on the frame per Breeze instructions measuring multiple times to make sure the support bracket was exactly 5 3/4" from the top edge of the radiator support frame.



    The only real challenge I had was a slight misfit between the flanges on the support bracket and the frame rails (to the front of the car). There was a very slight twist in the bracket and, after measuring, even some differences between the DS and PS rails to the quick jacks



    There is so much adjustability in the Breeze part I don't think it will be an issue when mounting the hood on the the hinge. The only other deviation from the instructions was adding some grease to the hinge.



    Here is the complete unit installed ...

    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  26. #386
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Th build is looking great Carl!

    Quick question: would you like me to move this to the build thread forum? I could leave a redirect...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  27. #387
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    David,

    Thanks and yes please move it.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  28. #388
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Thank you Carl and David! I love Carl's build thread, but it sure will be helpful to have all the build threads in one place. I read them all! Great Job Carl. I hope someday to see firsthand the fruits of your labor!

    Kevin
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  29. #389
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Mechanical Throttle Linkage - Part One

    This is the first day's work on the linkage ... hooking up the EZ EFI 2.0 Throttle Body to the RT Go Pedal

    After studying (probably over studying) various versions of mechanical linkage setups on the forums ... particularly the posts by CCRsAC (Chris) on FFCars.com, I ordered the components from McMaster-Carr and Midwest Controls. This was before Mike Forte came out with a nice kit customized to the FFR roadster. The parts sat on the shelf eagerly waiting for their time in build process. Well that day finally arrived!

    Here are the items completed before getting the mechanical linkage location planned:

    1. Engine installed;



    2. Firewall correctly positioned;

    3. Additional support plate installed on the cockpit side to support the rod ends;



    4. The DS inside foot box panel positioned and at least temporarily installed;



    5. Throttle pedal installed (in my case Russ Thompson's version);



    6. The carburetor or in my case the EZ EFI 2.0 throttle body installed; and,

    7. The 1/4 in Ball Joint Rod End installed on the Holley style throttle link on the throttle body.



    The firewall marked up in preparation to drill the holes for the firewall 3/8 in ball joint rod ends. This part of the process took a while for me at least. I was very worried about making sure the system was positioned to properly open the throttle from idle to WOT (a sweep of about 60 degrees) and not interfere with the other components, air filter and the aluminum panels. Measure twice, thrice and cut once.



    The DS foot box inside wall marked to drill the hole for the 3/8 in rod. The hole was not drilled until the firewall ball joint rods were in position.

    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  30. #390
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    After waking up at 1:00 am I headed out to the garage with a rested body and mind. After checking the numbers and alignment to the throttle body one last time...

    1. The hole for the 3/8 in Ball Joint Rod End was drilled in the firewall;

    2. The Rod End was attached to the firewall with 3/8" x 24 x 1" screws with a fender washer on the engine side and a lock washer on the inside. I may eliminate the large fender washer ... It is not really required.



    3. Although I had marked out the position for the hole, cutting the hole through the DS inside foot box wall required another mockup to make sure the hole was going to be aligned with shaft.

    4. Using the remainder of the 3/8" shaft and a 2x6 drilled out to support the Rod end on the PS, I ran the rod through the installed rod end. Using a magnetic level the rod leveled vertically, a rule to get it parallel to the firewall and the hole through the panel was then marked for drilling.





    5. The hole was drilled with a step drill bit to a size larger than the rod's 3/8" diameter.



    6. The position for the 3/8" Large Ball Joint Rod End was then mocked up by installing the DS rod end on the rod and attaching the bell-crank for to check for clear rotation and movement of the 1/4" rod to the throttle pedal.



    7. Hole for the DS foot box 3/8" ball joint rod end was drilled and the end installed. I decided to eliminate the large fender washer.

    Last edited by carlewms; 10-04-2015 at 03:20 AM. Reason: Mechanical Throttle Linkage - Part Two
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  31. #391
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Carl, I did mine similarly to you.

    I ended up w/ the bell cranks pointing upward and parallel to each other. I wasn't satisfied w/ the setscrew holding the bell cranks so I pulled the shaft out and ground two flats on it.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  32. #392
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Craig,

    Thanks for the information. I plan on putting two flats on each end to make sure the bell crank set "screws" have a good solid place to land.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  33. #393
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Drive Shaft Installation ... Woes

    While waiting for the left hand die to arrive (it did today), yesterday I looked at getting the drive shaft installed. What I thought would be fairly straight forward ... well turns out to be a little difficult.

    The basic kit does not come with a DS so I had previously purchased one from a member of one of the forums. It came well packaged, has the 28 splines needed for matting to a T5 transmission tail piece and was well painted.





    I knew from online research that the fit was going to be very tight and that I might have to move the transmission down to get the splined section of the DS on to the transmission.

    After carefully measuring the distance from the transmission splined shaft to the face of the differential pinion, I found that I had about 5/8 inches for "play" meaning the DS was about 5/8th inches shorter than the distance between the transmission and differential flanges.



    I called FFR Technical Support and with the IRS they say that is sufficient play or difference since the IRS differential is fixed in the frame and the engine moves relatively little in the longitudinal direction.

    So it looks like I need to remove the frame below the transmission and allow it to move down so that I can get the DS installed.

    Any other ideas to consider?
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  34. #394
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Mechanical Thottle linkage Complete

    Now to the vroom vroom part working!

    Last edited by carlewms; 10-09-2015 at 01:11 AM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  35. #395
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Don't forget an adjustable stop for the pedal. I adjust mine so that the throttle blades open maybe 95% to be sure that my foot isn't trying to break my carb.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  36. #396
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Craig,

    Yes. The pedal stop is work in progress. I initially planned the one's like others have done but my rear brake line is just too close ... It's almost in perfect alignment with the pedal so I am creating a bracket that attaches to the 3/4 in square upright that keeps away from that brake line.

    Work is going to slow down a bit with travel over the next few weeks but I am shooting for first start on the 24th or 31st!

    Thanks for the tip on adjusting to 95% on the throttle blades. I have not even sat in the car yet to get the feel of the pedal either.
    Last edited by carlewms; 10-09-2015 at 08:00 AM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  37. #397
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    It has been awhile since my last post ... health issues and travel kept me out of the garage for awhile.

    I did manage during the period to finish and install a pedal stop essentially completing the installation of the throttle linkage.

    Most of the posts in the FFR world show a stop that is mounted to the front panel of the DS foot box ... that would not work in my case because the brake line was in the way so I had to make a bracket:



    The other lesson learned from the other builders was to make sure the "pad" where the pedal stopped was large enough to prevent the pedal from getting around it and sticking in the WOT position.

    I found a bed stand support with a large ... but ugly brown pedal at the woodworking store. After painting it with undercoating here are the results:



    Parts used:

    1/8" by 1" Aluminum Bar Stock (Lowes)
    1 Bed Stand Support
    2 Nuts
    1 Lock Washer

    Here are photos installed:





    With the pedal at the stop ...

    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  38. #398
    Junior Member
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    Carl,
    Nice job! I love seeing these "mini-mods". Thanks for taking the time to document and post it.

  39. #399
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    First Adjustment for Heel and Toe

    After Bill's recommendation ... i went out to adjust the throttle pedal so that at idlet it was even with a fully depressed brake pedal. It turned out that moving the pivot point of the RT throttle pedal was the easiest route. After moving it toward the front of the car and readjusting the pedal stop ... the throttle is at idle and the WOT is still achieved. The mechanical linkage made it easy. Here are the results which can be adjusted once I go cart ...



    With the brake pedal depressed (clearly doing it with my hand won't yield max depression but it is close enough for go cart)



    Here is a view from the front of the pedals

    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  40. #400
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    First Start Preparations ....

    I have searched the forum(s) and get a mixed bag of information on preparing and executing a first start. I need feed back on whether I have got everything that needs to be included:

    1. Verify that all electrical/hydraulic/cooling/fuel lines are clear of any moving parts and the headers
    2. Energize and check all guages for operation
    3. Partially fill fuel tank
    4. Turn on fuel pump and check for leaks
    5. Fill coolant system and check for leaks
    6. Fill Transmission Fluid
    7. Bleed Clutch Hydraulic System and verify clutch operation
    8. Fill Engine Oil
    9. Pre lube engine oil (drill to spin the oil pump) and verify pump pressure
    10. Move car to clear area outside the garage
    11. Position Fire Extinguisher
    12. Position Wet Towel(s)
    13. One person manning the fire extinguisher
    14. One person with the wet towels
    15. One person in the cockpit to start and monitor the gauges


    I guess some one should be taking a video for me as well ...

    Thanks in advance for your help on this one.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

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