Boig Motorsports

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  5
Likes Likes:  2
Page 17 of 22 FirstFirst ... 71516171819 ... LastLast
Results 641 to 680 of 872

Thread: Carl's Mk 4 Roadster Build

  1. #641
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Peoria, Arizona
    Posts
    40
    Post Thanks / Like
    Carl, forgive me if I am missing something here, but I am amazed at the amount of body work you are doing, your work looks remarkable. Is this typical? Does everyone have to go through this effort?
    Thanks,
    Todd

  2. #642
    Jazzman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    1,164
    Post Thanks / Like
    Short answer: yes. Either you do it yourself or you pay someone else to do it. (That is if you want a good paint job!!) Talk to Jeff Kleiner or Jeff "Da Bat" Miller about how many hours it takes to get a good paint job done. I have heard estimates from 100 to 150 hours to do it right. The pros can probably do it more quickly due to experience. The actual laying on of the color coat is close to the last step in the process. The reason a great paint job looks great is all the work you never realize that goes on before the color is ever applied. Keep up the good work Carl! You are an inspiration!!

    "Good paint jobs are not cheap, and cheap paint jobs aren't good!"
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  3. #643
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Peoria, Arizona
    Posts
    40
    Post Thanks / Like
    WOW!!!!
    What about all the alignment issues, is that typical?

  4. #644
    Jazzman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    1,164
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Brew211 View Post
    WOW!!!!
    What about all the alignment issues, is that typical?
    Yep. These cars are being built from the ground up. Everything that Ford or Chevy might do to your daily driver has to be done on these cars. Every car has to be aligned. It is the final step in setting up the suspension. We can "eyeball" the fittings when we build the suspension, but to get the angles right so the car steers straight and true, an alignment is critical. The weight of the car also impacts the angle of the tire tread on the ground, thus affects tread wear. Some do the alignment themselves, others (like me) will take it in for an alignment after it is all completed. There are others who know a whole lot more than me about steering geometry and caster and camber angles for optimum performance, but that's it in a nutshell.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  5. #645
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Peoria, Arizona
    Posts
    40
    Post Thanks / Like
    I am so sorry, what I meant and should have said was the body alignment with the Doors, hood, and trunk issues I have seen with Carl's body work. Thank you Jazzman for the time you spent with your response. I do understand the car alignment of course.

  6. #646
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    8,003
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Brew211 View Post
    I am so sorry, what I meant and should have said was the body alignment with the Doors, hood, and trunk issues I have seen with Carl's body work. Thank you Jazzman for the time you spent with your response. I do understand the car alignment of course...
    As I said to Carl in a reply to this thread a couple of weeks ago---for the most part what he is encountering is pretty typical.

    Jeff

  7. #647
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks all ... after throwing mud on the doors for the last two days. I feel like sort of like The Karate Kid ... Mud On ... Sand Mud Off and repeat multiple times.

    After doing just what I have done so far ... I totally understand why the "paint job" on one of these cars can be so expensive and time consuming if done correctly.

    Brew211 none of this should discourage anyone from building one of these cars ... When I started I never intended to do the body work; I was going to pay someone else to handle that part of the build. Well time and mainly budget got in the way of that plan.

    When I started I had zero experience doing any body work whether on metal or fiberglass so experience is not a prerequisite for attempting the body work in my humble opinion.

    Additionally you have wonderful resources in this and other forums whether researching the tools needed, the ins and outs of the unique features of these bodies or just plain encouragement when things don't go right.

    Last, as much as we sometimes ***** about the bodies, from what I can see from the other manufacturers (except Superformance which really doesn't count on the body work side) the FFR product requires less body work than the others.
    Here is an ERA from a friend on another forum for example:



    BTW I am actually have a blast doing this type of work.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  8. #648
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Peoria, Arizona
    Posts
    40
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Carl, I must be honest, nothing so far seams intimidating with the exception of the body work. That does not look fun to me......... but I will take your word for it.
    Great Job!

  9. #649
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like

    Body Work Continues ... Doors Revisited Again

    After a lot of time in the Olde Goat Garage ....

    The doors are installed and ... almost ... fitted. The trunk lid installed and fitted and the mold release seams readdressed.

    "Installed" meaning attached to the frame. "Fitted" means a lot of filling and getting the gaps the even as well as adjustment at the hinges. Getting between the two states has been quite an experience for this newbie.

    Of the three items the doors required the most time ... and filler.

    Doors

    Overall Strategy: From Jeff K. - "Make the Hole fit the Door". The steps I took were based on the work of all those that have gone before me and the expertise of Jeff Squared (Jeff K and Jeff M), EdwardB and others.

    Preparations: in my case I had already applied and rolled the seams at the inside edges of the door.

    1. Fit the top of the door front and rear using the adjustments at the hinge;
    2. Fit the bottom of the door front and rear using the adjustments at the hinge;
    3. Move the body in or out at the front and rear of the door; secure the body where it goes under the body only after it is in the final position;

    This is an iterative process one which iterated several times. Here are the results:









    4. Clean the entire area of the door with 1) Microfiber towel with soap (Dawn works as a degreaser as well) and water; 2) Scotchpad with degreaser; and, 3) Completely rinse with clean water;
    5. Let everything dry thoroughly;
    6. Apply Eastwood's Pre Paint Preparation;
    7. Wipe off using a clean paper towel ... it's important to use a clean part of the towel each time to avoid spreading contamination; and,

    8. While the area was drying (the pre paint prep evaporates in just a few minute), prepare the Rage Gold

    Apply the Filler: Based on the recommendations of the guys that do this for a living I used Evercoats Rage Gold as a filler.

    1. Depending on the temperature and humidity... the filler working time will vary considerably so I found I had to plan accordingly. The way I did it was to use a marker to note the sections to be filled, divide up the work and mix just enough to cover those areas;



    2. Apply the filler ... i mainly use these yellow spreaders. Deciding how much filler to apply is tricky; you want enough that when sanded there is enough filler remains but not so much that you have waste;



    3. Before the filler gets completely hard ... clean away any excess dropped on the body and knock off the rough edges on the surface; and,

    Here are some Work In Progress photos ...

    The jamb of the door was back filled after getting the gaps right ... or at least close



    4. Let it cure for at least 20 minutes.

    Sanding: details on the next post.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  10. #650
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Peoria, Arizona
    Posts
    40
    Post Thanks / Like
    HOLY SMOKES! That is a lot of work...... well done!

  11. #651
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like

    Door Interfaces with Body ... Mk 4

    Thanks for the comments ...

    I am struggling a bit on how to finish off the intersection between the tops of the doors and the body front and rear.





    What did you do here?

    Thanks,

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  12. #652
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like

    Body Work Continues ... Doors Again Again and Again

    Taking the advice from Jeff K ...

    I needed to do some more filling in (I chose to use HSRF) to get the gaps down from Grand Canyon size to something more reasonable. The journey has started but sometimes I feel like am in a tunnel, can see the light in the tunnel ... but I am not sure it is a train headed my way.

    Here are few photos of the journey so far ...

    The starting point DS rear interface with the body ...



    Starting to build up the interface ...

    Building up the back of the door panel with HSRF ... this stuff is hard to sand if you let it fully cure. I found it easier to wait until it turned and then knocked off the big stuff first and then sanded quickly there after.



    Here is a view from the top ...



    I have made it this far in the effort ...



    If I have time tomorrow I will get back into the Rage Gold (assuming that is the right thing to do) to the final form smoothed and more sand paper to get the gaps right.

    Any helpful hints would be gratefully appreciated.

    Carl
    Last edited by carlewms; 04-08-2017 at 07:35 PM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  13. #653
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Auburn, AL
    Posts
    2,146
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for the pictures and documentation on your learning curve with the body work. I see a 2nd factory five in my future and am on the fence on trying the body work on the next one. I am enjoying following your progress. Sorry but I sure don't have any helpful hints for you but keep up the good work!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  14. #654
    Senior Member jrcuz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Stafford Virginia
    Posts
    675
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hang in there Carl!
    JR
    Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
    First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint

  15. #655
    Boydster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Maryville, TN
    Posts
    1,104
    Post Thanks / Like
    Keep at it Carl. You are braver and have a lot more patience than I do. Bravo.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  16. #656
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like

    Body Work Update ... in Video



    Work in Progress ... sometimes too slow at progress.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  17. #657
    Senior Member dallas_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    449
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    2
    Your patience will be rewarded grasshopper.
    FFR 7123 tilt front, Levy 5link/wilwoods/LCA's, webers.
    SL-C, LS3 525, Mendeola SDR5,

  18. #658
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like

    Body Work Continues ... But Not Without Some Mistakes

    ust to make sure the story is complete ... there have been a few "booboos" so far in getting the body work ready for painting ...

    1. Sanding Too Much. In my zeal to get the right shape there have been two times when I actually sanded a hole in the fiberglass ... not a big holes but ones that required applying 3M HSRF to repair.



    Note: The hole in the photo has been expanded for clarity.

    2. Forgetting or Failing to Install All the Seals. The seals (bulb seal on the aluminum panels) and the weatherstriping (on the frame around the hood opening) must be installed before attempting to get the doors fitted to the body. The trunk seal should be temporarily installed and the hood trimmed and supported with seal and or rubber buttons as required.

    3. Cracked Door Latch Support. Somehow I managed to crack the support ... either from dropping the door or most likely from pulling on the door when I "glued" it to the body with Rage Gold ... another blunder.



    4. Glueing the Doors to the Body. This occurred on more than one ocassion ... I got lost in sanding and shaping one area while the filler solidified in the gaps on the doors. The fix usually involve at minimum a utility knife and in one worst case a large flat blade screwdriver and a rubber mallet ... oh and a whole lot of pulling to get the door to break loose. Note that this is likely the cause of the problem in #3 since I could have been putting pressure on the door with it still latched.



    5. Pinholes, Pinholes and More Damn Pinholes. After getting the sanding done to 120 grit I inspected the surface carefully and found a lot more pinholes than I actually expected. I think the causes for their sudden appearance ... 1) Sanding through the gelcoat in some places; 2) Improper mixing of the Rage Gold; and, 3) Applying the filler too late ... meaning as it was turning or setting. I used a 3M product

    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  19. #659
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for the feedback ...

    Here are some more questions requesting your wise and sage counsel ...

    1. How much gap between the body and the side pipes where they exit the body? It would seem that you want it tight but not tight enough that the two touch under heavy acceleration as the engine twists a little.



    2. Side Mirrors. Everything I have read and, in some cases experienced, is that the fender mounted mirrors are basically non functional ... at least for a view down the side of the car. Because of budget considerations spending $250 on a set of these is out of the question (although they are highly recommended on the FFR forums).



    They mount on the sides of the windshield using the hardware for the wind wings.

    I am looking at some motorcycle mirrors like these ...

    from the Motorcycle Superstore

    Thoughts and feedback please ...

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  20. #660
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    8,003
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have at least 3 cars out there wearing inexpensive Speedway Peep mirrors.

    http://www.speedwaymotors.com/4-Inch...rror,3811.html

    Although not focused on them this photo kind of gives you an idea of where they're installed. I don't think I've driven any of the cars with them enough to form an opinion but the owners all seem to be satisfied with how they work out.



    I went a different route with my own car and used Raydots and mounts from Finish Line but with some mods.



    I originally ordered one with a flat lens for the driver's side and another with convex for the passenger side. Turned out that I couldn't see for squat! Took the mirrors apart, removed the glass lenses and replaced them with some cheap stick on convex ones from Pep Boys or Autozone which fit perfectly into the opening. What a difference!



    Here is the view from the driver's seat. Yeah, it has that "objects in mirror may be closer than they appear" thing going on but most importantly you can tell when something is there and then pinpoint EXACTLY where.



    On the passenger side visibility was compromised a bit by the windshield post. Although I could see objects it just wasn't positioned for a quick glance so I extended it out about 2" and now it is much better. I know this won't be for everybody for aesthetic reasons but I can live with it and the clearer field of vision it provides. Chalk one up for "form follows function"!



    I've found that mirrors are very important on these cars since people tend to drive along hanging out off of the back quarters taking photos or cell phone video. Being able to tell that they are there at a glance with good mirrors is mandatory!

    Cheers,
    Jeff

  21. #661
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Auburn, AL
    Posts
    2,146
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have the mirrors mounted on the wind wings. I like them but have no experience with the fender mounted mirror so I cant tell you if they are much better. I am 6'3" and have the high back seats so my getting out of the car may be a little different but I was surprised to find I keep hitting the mirror with my left knee when I get out. Was hoping to get the positioning set and tighten down the adjustment so it doesn't move around but I keep bumping it. Had not really heard that complaint on these mirrors before. May be a unique problem to me but thought I would mention it. The finish on the piece itself is very nice.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  22. #662
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks all ...

    Jeff thanks also for the lead on the mirrors ... I think the peep mirrors are for me.

    How did you mount them on the windshield post? Did you use a mount like the ********** one on your car to use as a base?

    Again .. thanks all.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  23. #663
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    8,003
    Post Thanks / Like
    Carl,
    They have a clamp that will straddle the windshield post and gets secured with setscrews. If you're so inclined you could modify it to become a bolt on mount like Chris did here:

    Quote Originally Posted by Cwood8656 View Post
    I made a small aluminum plate to replace the clamp on bracket on the peep mirror. I drilled and tapped two holes for machine screws, and made a large central countersunk hole to allow access to the screw that mounts the mirror to the base. Drilled two holes in the pillar and mounted with a couple of chrome plated cap screws. I didn't want to use the central screw to mount the mirror because I was worried that it would loosen over time and rotate.







    HTH,

    Chris.

    Cheers,
    Jeff

  24. #664
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like

    Windshield Installation Part One

    For the last two days ... I fiddled with the final placement of the windshield.

    One of the most tiresome tasks in the build, the installation of the windshield is also one of the most frustrating. The bodies are definitely not symmetrical and FFR states in the instructions that the windshield frames vary depending on their vendor source. These factors combine to cause an iterative process of mounting, measuring, removing and adjusting the holes in the body to get the the windshield in place.

    Ideally this is a two person job ... but in this case I had to improvise a little. I used a cargo strap with rubberized hooks to hold the windshield at the desired angle. The ratchet on the strap allowed for minor incremental changes to the angle of the windshield to the body.



    On Friday before starting Craig and I watched the Build School video on the process of installing the windshield posts on to the frame around the windshield. The chrome plated brass screws into the brass plate in the windshield frame was the delicate part; too much torque and the brass just strips out. So far so good; but some filing of the screws to get the posts completely secured to the windshield and prevent them from cracking the glass.

    I am also checking with Whitby Motors to get their SS replacements for the brass plates in the windshield. Using their steel plates with SS screws from MC will reduce the chances of striping the screws. The screw part is JIS 18-8 Stainless Steel Phillips Flat Head Screws, M5 x 0.8 mm Thread, 8 mm Long, packs of 10. I called them yesterday and they are sending me the inserts and the screws ...

    There are several constraints or parameters from all those that have done this before me:

    1. Requirements for installation of the FFR Premium soft top ... the distance from the top screw on the frame to the rear of the door needed to be 27" (Note: I have also seen where the final angle between the windshield posts and the cowl should be 53 deg ...

    2. The body should not (meaning shall not) touch the windshield metal ... meaning only the rubber seal should touch the cowl and the windshield posts SHOULD NOT touch the body where they penetrate to the frame; and,

    3. Don't stress the glass by putting pressure on it from the installation of the posts ... use shims and or gently twist the brass posts so that they fit on the frame without imparting any pressure on the frame/glass. The ends of the posts tend to duck feet out as you look forward; not always matching up with the frame.

    Here are the results so far ... PS



    Even this is not necessarily the final position since there is a little leeway in the mounting ... the frame has 1/2" openings and the windshield is drilled for 3/8" bolts. Therefore it seemed to me the best thing was to get the hole locations on the posts marked such that there was sufficient room for the holes ... For example here is a poor photo of the problem I initially had on the PS post.



    It is a hard to see but the left or bottom hole would only be incomplete going through the back of the windshield post.

    DS



    For me the most useful parameters seemed to be the distance from the hood edge to the rubber on the windshield and the distance from the top screw of the post to the rear of the door body side. I am worried that the distance from the first top screw to the back of the door is different by about 1/4".

    As part of the iterative process of fitting the windshield I did goon up the DS holes in the body ...



    The inside of the body is almost touching the post so I will need to expand it a little while filling in the outside ... A LOT!

    I have not actually pulled the windshield to drill the holes in the posts yet so if I am doing something way wrong please comment. The goal is to get the windshield finished on Wednesday.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  25. #665
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like

    Windshield Installation Part Two

    After about 5 hours of futzing with the variables ... and there are many we finally got the windshield installed.

    Some highlights ... or low lights of the installation:

    1. We had to expand the holes in the body considerably to get the right alignment of the windshield posts and get close to the proper alignment for the premium top ... We had to move them back to get proper alignment on the holes in the frame. I will have a little fiberglass work to close up the holes (or uses bigger pieces of aluminum).

    2. With the exception of one nut on the upper bolt of the windshield post we used regular versus lock nuts (during the final install I will use some Locktite on these nuts).

    3. At Craig's recommendation we made and installed thin plastic washers on the small chromed brass nuts that attach the windshield posts to the brass part on the side of the windshield. This allowed us to get the posts tight without filing off the screws. NOTE: I have ordered the SS inserts from Whitby for future installation ...

    4. After test fitting the windshield we had to bend the lower part of the post slightly to make them parallel with the plate on the frame.

    5. Last but not least we had to install shims between the posts and the frames. At the suggestion of EdwardB on the other forum, I purchased 1/8", 1/16" and 1/32" body shims to substitute for the washers ... making installation much easier.

    Each installation will vary but we ended up with the following shim installation:

    DS Upper 1/16" + 1/32"
    DS Lower 1/8"

    PS Upper 2 x 1/16"
    PS Lower 1/8" +1/16"

    Here is a photo of the type of shim used ... I purchased them at NAPA.



    Here is the semi final installation of the windshield ...



    Thanks to Craig for getting the Olde Goat's roadster to this next level.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  26. #666
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    10,548
    Post Thanks / Like
    Looks good. The windshield installation can be a little tedious. Couple points FWIW. The screws on the side posts can't break the glass. This is a common misconception. The glass is on the other side of the metal channel of the side frames. The screws to be concerned about are the visor mounting screws. Those are the ones that can break the glass. For the side post screws, if too long they will hit the back wall of the side frame. Or, it's easy to strip the brass strip as you described. The Whitby SS strips are good improvement. I've used them on each of my builds. The will come threaded for 10-32 though. Not metric.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  27. #667
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like
    EdwardB ... thanks for the rapid feedback. With respect to the Whitby SS strips when I ordered them they told me they come with the screws. If that is not the case I need to get them on order from M-C.

    Again thanks ...

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  28. #668
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    10,548
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by carlewms View Post
    With respect to the Whitby SS strips when I ordered them they told me they come with the screws. If that is not the case I need to get them on order from M-C.
    Right. The strips come with the 10-32 mounting screws. But I've found them to be too short. Maybe you'll find they work. I replaced with McMaster 95145A243 and adjusted the length as needed.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  29. #669
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    So. Bay (So. Calif.)
    Posts
    872
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'll throw this into the mix.

    I am in the process of fitting the windshield. The body is temporarily on, and I have drilled (and tapped) my 1/2" holes in the brass vertical end mounts. I have done some minor bending and twisting of the vertical mounts to get them as parallel as I can, considering the limited visibility with the body on. I will do the final "aligning" of the brass mounts after I remove the body in a month or so.

    I have also installed the Whitby SS inserts. They do come with the 10-32 screws and tapped holes, but I am considering not using those screws.

    During this initial and preliminary fitting of the windshield, I needed to mount, then take off the brass end supports, many times. Rather than screw in the Phillips screws each time, I had a bunch of 10-32 x 1 inch set screws handy. That way I could easily screw in the set screw by hand, then run a nut down, by hand. All very sturdy for fitting. I even went so far as to make some standoffs (about 1/2 or 3/8 inch long I think), that I tapered on one end and that fit nicely into the countersunk holes in the end support. Very fast on and off, and no chance of over tightening and little chance of cross threading with those set screws going in by hand. The three lower fasteners can stay in the windshield, but the top one is at an angle and had to be put in after the brass support is mated to the windshield.

    The icing on the cake is they really don't look all that bad either, even with the extra long ones in there now. So....

    I am now considering this process for the final mounting, especially since I will be using the ********** side mirror mounts. I won't have to size the screws for mirror mounts, or even the brass supports. I'll get some shorter set-screws, and just screw the set-screw in by hand, which will be all the way in until it snugs up to the inner windshield rail rim. No over tightening this way. And no way of having the screw too shallow either. Then a nut on top of that, just snugged up. I will need to get some countersunk washers, or make some to fit in the counter sunk cavity on the vertical mount. Also, I'll grind off the little dimple on the end of the set-screw so it's flat, and allow another 1/2 turn in the insert. Probably will add a dab of Blue Loctite for the set-screw in the insert.

    The advantage is using every available thread to mount the windshield. And with only using 1 3/4 to 2 threads max, I'll take it.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by boat737; 05-18-2017 at 10:55 AM.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  30. #670
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have been pushing forward to get the items done so I can get the car ready for photos.

    The lights have all been installed ...

    Headlights were a bit more of PIA than I expected ... and the manual doesn't help a lot. Specifically:

    1. I had to expand the hole in the plastic bucket for the wiring and use larger grommets ... my fat fingers just couldn't make the much smaller grommet work;

    2. When attaching the bucket to the body the manual shows using only one screw (although the photos seemed to show more than one). I ended up using 4 of the 5 supplied;



    3. The clip provided to keep the exterior ring or cap steady was easier to put on before installing the bucket;



    4. I had previously modified the clips that hold the ring to the light as done by others before me. Before I install the lights for the final time ... I will use longer screws and some locktite to make sure they don't vibrate off;



    It is starting to look like a real car now ...



    The Rear lights ... pretty much as expected although I clocked them 90 deg so the lettering on the lenses is right side up. The rear lights are a pain to get tightened down ... You have to install the washers and nuts from under the car. I did remove the rear wheels to make it easier. If I can get away with it I will reinstall after painting before installing the body.

    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  31. #671
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like

    Doors ... Revisited

    This is a catch up post on the doors ...

    Here are the photos of the doors after a lot of work on the gaps and the intersections between the door tops and the body.

    Passenger Side:



    There must be a wide enough gap so that no part of the door touches the body when opening and closing ... also taking into account the thickness of the paint on both parts.



    Driver Side:





    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  32. #672
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Vancouver Island BC Canada
    Posts
    1,877
    Post Thanks / Like
    Carl, it's good that at this point you allowed for the thickness of the paint, in figuring out the door gaps. The hi-build primers will fill in those gaps as well. Same goes for the trunk lid, although there may be more adjustment available with the MK4 trunk hinges, than my MK 3.1 had.
    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

  33. #673
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like
    Bill,

    Thanks ... I think my trunk might be ok but I definitely need to work on the gaps for the hood (way to tight right now it seems).

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  34. #674
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Blacksburg, Va
    Posts
    4,707
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    I'll throw this into the mix.

    I am in the process of fitting the windshield. The body is temporarily on, and I have drilled (and tapped) my 1/2" holes in the brass vertical end mounts. I have done some minor bending and twisting of the vertical mounts to get them as parallel as I can, considering the limited visibility with the body on. I will do the final "aligning" of the brass mounts after I remove the body in a month or so....
    Hi boat. When I was working w/ Carl, we laid the windshield across a table front side upward. As we looked at twisting the brackets I was looking down into the frame thought the slots in the body. As best as we could tell, the mounting surfaces on the frame are parallel w/ the car's centerline. So, I gave the brackets a twist and then we screwed them back onto the windshield. We looked at the lower portion and decided that if they were both vertical, that meant they were parallel w/ each other, and so would be parallel w/ the mount surfaces on the frame. I had been sweating this but it actually turned out to be pretty simple. As I remember, one bracket was good the first time and one needed a bit more twist. good luck w/ yours.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  35. #675
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like
    Here is a video update after mocking up most of the components on the body ... so I can take photos today to send to DMV and get this thing road legal ...

    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  36. #676
    Senior Member jrcuz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Stafford Virginia
    Posts
    675
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mighty FINE Carl!
    JR
    Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
    First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint

  37. #677
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like

    Issues Mounting ********** Over Riders

    1. The ********** overriders are chromed brass with the attachment bosses deep in the overrider whereas the FFR version is SS and has a plate across the back of the overrider.



    If they were SS i thought I could get a plate added to the backs like the FFR versions ...

    2. The holes in the ********** overriders is 3/8"-16 and the bolts provided by 7/16"-14. Changing the rear ones to 3/8"-16 would be possible but requires taking the gas tank off to get to the ends. The front could be changed a little easier but still leaves other issues to resolve (if I had caught this earlier in the build the solution would have been a lot easier);

    3. The front overriders need to be mounted at an angle (about 7% off the vertical). The solution others have used is to bend the bolt after installation which is not appealing to me at all;

    4. The brackets are actually fence post brackets to use on a gate where a two by four is inserted in the bracket to secure the gate but the legs are too long;



    Potential Solutions:

    1. Easiest: Say to hell with the over riders and just mount the quick jacks (which I do have)

    2. Buy the FFR versions which are currently not in stock and shim to get the correct angle on the front over riders;

    3. Look at the Superformance and ERA versions to see if they might work; and,

    4. Get brackets made that keep all the hardware inside the over riders (I initially tried this but my limited skills and equipment made it hard to get the 1/8" aluminum bent properly) and use acorn nuts on the visible parts.

    Any additional thoughts ...
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  38. #678
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    8,003
    Post Thanks / Like
    What is the center to center dimension of the overriders? What is the dimension of the FFR mounts and body? Doubt they match but it would be simple enough to redrill the chassis plates to match the bumpers, fill the body holes as needed then install them using the full length "through the body" tubes and grommets.

    Jeff

  39. #679
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nokesville, VA
    Posts
    1,125
    Post Thanks / Like
    Jeff,

    The spacing is the same 2.25"; the only difference is the diameter and thread of the bolts. ********** just supplies the overriders no hardware provided.

    I have your mod on the rear quick jack bolts and tried to find a coupler that took a 7/16"-14 on one end and a 3/8"-14 on the other but could not locate a source.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  40. #680
    2bking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Garland, Texas
    Posts
    799
    Post Thanks / Like
    Perhaps the 3/8-14 to 7/16-14 adapter Jeff mentioned would fix the problem. It would screw into the over rider and the 7/6-14 blot would screw into it. Pm me if that looks like a fix and I'll make for you.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

Page 17 of 22 FirstFirst ... 71516171819 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Replica Parts

Visit our community sponsor