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Thread: Carl's Mk 4 Roadster Build

  1. #81
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Finishing Up ISIS MEGA Fuse Block installation Preps, Etc.

    Overnight, I continued the painting cycle on the support plate now shifting to semi gloss black to topcoat the POR-15. The high humidity is impacting the drying time.

    Here are the physical characteristics of the Optima 51R battery:

    Length: 9.31 in
    Width: 5.06 in
    Height: 8.94 in


    The height is important to the installation of the MEGA Fuse Box which I plan to install above the battery on the crossmember.

    I started the fuel tank installation preparations. I unpacked and cleaned off the galvanized tank with acetone and followed that by general purpose cleaner to get the "waxy" protective coating off the exterior of the tank. I was planning to paint with POR but instead decided to treat the tank with SharkHide instead.

    image.jpg

    In the next step, the straps were cleaned up, rough sanded and painted with POR-15 then topped with semi gloss black. while waiting I assembled the parts for the installation.

    image.jpg

    The bolts, nuts, and washers are supplied with the basic kit from FFR. The Breeze EZ Fuel Kit has everything else.

    image.jpg

    The Breeze kit is perfect for those looking for the entire package from one source Breeze eliminates the hassles of sourcing parts individually customizing their kits to meet your needs. I did not need the in tank pump so they deducted it from the package.

    The fuel level sender package goes in the large hole in the lower section of the tank. Install the "square" gasket in the groove on the tank and then insert the sender noting the position of the two tabs which dictate the only way the sender can be installed.

    image.jpg

    I used a large flathead screwdriver to drive the retaining ring to its final position over the fuel level sender.

    image.jpg

    The tank vent was also installed. Breeze provides a larger vent which allows more air to vent from the tank preventing overflowing during refueling. Care must be taken to ensure that the rubber grommet does not go through into the tank during installation. Definitely use a rubber lubricant like Armorall to make this job easier.

    image.jpg

    The next connection is the fuel filler on the side of the tank. The seal was a little difficult to install but finally went in with a little massaging.

    image.jpg

    Carl
    Last edited by carlewms; 07-15-2013 at 06:20 AM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  2. #82
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    Carl,

    Great build thread. I've enjoyed keeping up with it as I go along with my build. I've gotta ask... how did you end up getting your differential in? I messed with mine all afternoon, and I thought by the end of it, that it wasn't possible because of the rear cover being different from all the ones I've seen in pictures. But then I saw yours and realized you have the same one I do.

    I used the technique described in all the posts I've seen in the forums (i.e. jacking it up with the drive shaft connection going straight up and the axle connections going front to back, and rotating as it goes up), but the rear cover of the CS keeps hitting the rear mounting bracket on the frame, no matter which way I spin it. You got any advice for the trick that you figured out?

    Thanks for any help.

    Noel

  3. #83
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Noel,

    Getting the differential in was a bear. This what I did that was different than the manuals method:

    1. I tied a line through the driveshaft end and ran the line up over the frame above the differential essentially hanging the differential by the driveshaft flange;

    2. I had help;

    3. My helper and I, as we got the differential up to the point of turnoff the drive shaft end forward, supported it from the bottom as we slacked off the line supporting from the top. This was an iterative process;

    4. As we moved it up we realized I needed to shave off some of the differential if I was ever going to get it in place, I used a grinding wheel to take off some off case and I recall that this included a little on the back cover. It was not much probably less than 1/8 th of an inch;

    5. After that, using the process above, we maneuvered the beast in to place.

    In hindsight I would use an engine installation stand to hand the differential because it would be easier to adjust the height of the differential and different stages of installation.

    Hope this helps.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  4. #84
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Carl - Your build is coming along very nicely and it looks great. You're really sweating the details, which will surely result in a great car when it's done... can't wait to see more!
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlewms View Post
    Noel,

    Getting the differential in was a bear. This what I did that was different than the manuals method:

    1. I tied a line through the driveshaft end and ran the line up over the frame above the differential essentially hanging the differential by the driveshaft flange;

    2. I had help;

    3. My helper and I, as we got the differential up to the point of turnoff the drive shaft end forward, supported it from the bottom as we slacked off the line supporting from the top. This was an iterative process;

    4. As we moved it up we realized I needed to shave off some of the differential if I was ever going to get it in place, I used a grinding wheel to take off some off case and I recall that this included a little on the back cover. It was not much probably less than 1/8 th of an inch;

    5. After that, using the process above, we maneuvered the beast in to place.

    In hindsight I would use an engine installation stand to hand the differential because it would be easier to adjust the height of the differential and different stages of installation.

    Hope this helps.

    Carl
    Carl,

    Thanks for the response. I'll give that a shot. I'm heading to the build school this coming weekend, so I'll re-attack this job two weekends from now. Thanks again...

    Noel

  6. #86
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Back in the Garage Again...to Work on the Roadster

    After a hiatus for a three week business trip to Hawaii and American Samoa and a long weekend working on my boat project in NC, I finally get to resume the build.

    I returned home to find the bell housing, starter and clutch components waiting at the garage door. For some reason I got the cable for the clutch even though I ordered the hydraulic version.

    The engine, transmission, and the cooling system components arrive tomorrow.

    I received the FAST EZ EFI 1.0 from Levy and after doing some research, decided to return it and upgrade to the 2.0 version. After getting some great feedback I decided to install an in tank pump instead of the external inline pump. The 2.0 version allows for an in tank pump and does not require a return line. If I desire I can also use the system to control the ignition system.

    The sheet metal mods continue to add up. Mocking up a modification to take advantage of the space above the shallow side of the gas tank will require some significant mods to the trunk sheet metal.

    image.jpg

    Although tempting to modify the frame, I decided not to mess with the structural integrity of the frame. The mod will add about 1 cubic foot of space in a box 26x16x4.5 inches. The space will also house the rear ISIS POWERCELL for powering all electrical components in aft section of the car.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  7. #87
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    The Heart of the Car Is Here at Last ... Thanks Gordon Levy

    I received my Christmas in August present from Gordon Levy today.

    The 347 Stroker arrived today as well as the transmission and radiator.

    The engine as delivered. I will be making the following modifications to the engine:

    1. Add the air conditioning compressor;
    2. Modify an FE expansion tank to use on a SB engine;
    3. Add the EZ EFI 2.0 Fuel Injection System;
    4. Reroute the spark plug wires to look more like the originals (i.e. come down from the distributor to the middle of the valve covers and then down to the plugs;
    5. Depending on how it mounts I may move the oil filter to a remote location (I just do not like having more connections that could leak if I do so);
    5. Depending on budget I will get matching air filter and valve covers.

    IMG_4012.jpg

    Aluminum bell housing ... cleaned it up before treating with POR 15 and a top coat of gloss black rattle can.

    IMG_4017.JPG

    I am still waiting on the Forte Hydraulic Clutch package to arrive.

    Super Allow T5 Transmission. I am probably not going to paint this with POR15 but instead clean it up and treat it with SharkHide.

    IMG_4016.JPG

    I now have a whole heck of a lot of work to do ... including scoping out the other drive train parts like engine mounts, etc.

    Carl
    Last edited by carlewms; 08-21-2013 at 06:51 PM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  8. #88
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Sheet Metal Weekend

    Finally got some quality build time this weekend almost exclusively focused on preparing the trunk and cockpit sheet metal parts.

    I setup a work station to prepare the panels: laying out an old towel on the work table made for a good surface to work with the panels which I found to get easily scratched up if not careful (a stray remnant from drilling a hole sure can cause a mess). I also keep a foxtail close by to keep the work surfaces clean of debris.

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    The tools I used include a fine point marking pen, the rivet spacing tool provided by FFR, a metal scribe/punch, blue masking tape, and, of course, the ever present drill with a #30 or 1/8th inch bit.

    The technique that worked best for me was:

    1. To reinstall the piece using cleckos to check the outlines where the panels should be drilled;
    2. Using the marker pen, carefully outline the frame members on to the sheet metal. At this point I also note any interferences where riveting would not be possible (weld joints, inaccessible spots, etc.);
    3. Utilizing the measuring rule lay out the rivet points taking into account the information learned above;
    4. Next, using the scribe, I carefully punch out the locations for the rivets;
    5. Folding back the towel, drill out the panels and immediately clean up the metal shavings;
    6. Fit the panel to the frame to check fit using the cleckos to hold it in place using the FFR drilled holes; and,
    7. If fit is good, I drill the holes in the frame leaving the panel on the frame for now.

    Here are some of the results:

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    For those panels which face the exterior of the car (wheel wells for example) are all treated with a double coat of under coating. I tape off the parts that will be mated to the other panels or the frame.
    Last edited by carlewms; 08-27-2013 at 10:01 PM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

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  10. #89
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Sheet Metal Installation ... 5 Number 30 Drill Bits Later

    I made significant progress on the cockpit and trunk sheet metal over the last few days. With the exception of the modifications I need to make to the trunk, the passenger side foot box and the installation of the transmission tunnel so that I can remove it easily and finish some drilling to the frame.

    image.jpg

    All parts that are exposed to the elements have been treated with undercoating. I mask off the areas that will be riveted so that the undercoating wont interfere with the figment of the panels on the frame.

    image.jpg

    I finished fabrication of the upper trunk interior side panels. I wanted a more finished look for the upper trunk. Apparently FFR formerly provided these panels. After creating a template, I cut and fitted the panels taking care to make sure there was no interference with other trunk components.

    image.jpg


    image.jpg

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  11. #90
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    Carl,
    Really enjoying your build progress. You are making great headway and a lot of your mods are identifical to what i did.

    I don't know exactly how far you are on your trunk mod, but you can gain a couple more inches on your box by cutting the top shelf off at cross bar. With the IRS you can also create a second storage box on the upper level. I was inspired by the trunk battery box, but maximized it for the available space. The small box measures 9"x18"x6.5"deep. The new trunk floor measures 17.5"x26"x5"deep.










    Also, while you're fabbing, don't forget to expand your PS footbox, there's a lot of opportunity there for comfortable foot room!
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  12. #91
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    MP Tech,

    Thanks for the compliments ... I am really enjoying the build part of this deal a lot.

    I am planning the expansion of the PS footbox and have already expanded the right side panel on the DS to give some additional room near the accelerator pedal.

    One challenge I am having is finding a local source for the 6061 T6 .04 in aluminum panel. I have used Big Box stuff so far but would prefer the heavier gage for the trunk mods and PS footboy. Where did you procure your sheet aluminum?

    Did you weld the sides of the boxes or tab and rivet them?

    Are you planning on covering the boxes or just leave it as additional space?

    Did you put anything between the bottom of the large box and the top of the tank?

    The smaller box would be perfect for mounting my rear ISIS PowerCell as well.

    Thanks for sharing and providing the dimensions for the boxes.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  13. #92
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    I did a similar DS bump out too and picked up 1+ inches.
    MK4 DS FB expansion

    The PS is the largest project and really frees up a lot of wasted space on that side (take every inch you can get!) (there's a good picture in here of the difference in size of the original and the modification).
    Passenger Footbox Extension
    and this one....
    PS footbox / header clearance on a mk4 w/302


    I got my 6061 T6 .04 aluminum panels from a local Metal Supplier (Shapiro's in St. Louis), but I believe RichGRSC has a great supplier that ships for almost the same cost!

    Did you weld the sides of the boxes or tab and rivet them? Riveted

    Are you planning on covering the boxes or just leave it as additional space? still undecided, Rich covered his and they look great!

    Did you put anything between the bottom of the large box and the top of the tank? just 1/2" of air


    Buidling is GREAT, the only thing better is DRIVING! (my build has come to a halt since I got mine licensed and the weather has been great!)
    but I'm planning to take my body back off at the end of the month and finish my build and ship the body off for painting over the winter.
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  14. #93
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    Carl,
    Great looking build!
    You may want to check out Online Metals
    I have used them for almost all my metal. Aluminum and steel. I even got a 3/4"x1 1/2"x6" block of aluminum to make a transmission mount space I think it was $5. I do have the advantage of an hour drive to the will call in Seattle but I have had them ship before and its not bad. At least you can compare. Most of the stuff you get at HomeD is way more even with shipping.
    Rod
    FFR 3749 MkII, 428PI, TKO-600, IRS, Pin-Drive, Tri-States body, Under Car Exhaust
    Rod's BB Street Cobra Build

  15. #94
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Rod,

    Thanks for the lead to Online Metals. I checked it out and they have exactly what I need at reasonable prices including shipping. I placed an order and based on their schedule I should see the material on Monday at the latest.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  16. #95
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    MPTech,

    The small box looks like an excellent site for a cooler of your beverage of choice ... a new tailgating option. I bet you could insulate it and have enough room for a six pack with some ice ... LoL. Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  17. #96
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    I wondered that too......... confirmed it last year.

    Yep, 3 of them will fit just fine



    my wife said it would be perfect for her shoes!! (WTH??) (the only shoes that would go in there would be my walking shoes, when I take off my driving shoes!
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  18. #97
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    More Sheet Metal Work In Progress

    Taking the good advice from MPTech and others made some modifications to my plan to expand the trunk space.

    First I will take the 2 in that exist between the square tube located at the rear end of the upper trunk by cutting off that portion of the upper trunk floor. Here is a photo of what I plan to do with the lower floor.



    I want to have the new space covered so I will install two piano hinges to make what is essentially a horizontal bi fold door over the new space.

    I also created a new panel to cover the ISIS MASTERCELL above the transmission cover forward under the dash. I will also use this panel to mount such things as the AC controls (if installed), the seat warmer switches and other aux switches. It will be mounted using rivet nuts so that I can remove the panel for access to the MASTERCELL



    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by carlewms; 09-07-2013 at 08:09 AM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  19. #98
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    More sheet metal work over the weekend as well as continuing planning on the dash layout.
    Here is what the dash layout looks like so far.

    image.jpg

    The panel (removable) will cover the ISIS MASTERCELL and have switches for the seat warmers, map lights, and heater (or AC if I install it).

    I also managed to spend more money... I started buying the bling for the engine as well as all the hardware for the mechanical linkage.

    The drop off between the cockpit floor and the driver's side foot box bothers me. I think the abrupt drop will be harder to carpet and would be an additional wear point. To solve the problem I fabricated a transition part:

    image.jpg

    In addition, the driver's side inside panel and the foot box top were fitted up and the interior sides under coated.

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    I upgraded the top to have the access way to the top of the pedal box. These will not be installed until I have the hydraulic clutch kit from Forte which I expect any day now. I also plan to install the insulation and sound blocking material before the final button up.

    Carl
    Last edited by carlewms; 09-09-2013 at 09:53 PM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  20. #99
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    I really like the way you are doing your car up! Great mods! Keep it coming.

  21. #100
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Lower Trunk Floor Modifications Step 1

    I started the lower trunk modifications ... and took an approach many others have with some slight modifications. I also wanted to try to minimize the use of specialized tools using only hand shears, jig saw, dremel tool with grinding wheels and bench top sander to shape the panels that need fabricated or modified.

    First I do not have access to a 30 in sheet metal brake so this approach takes the least amount of "bending" from my perspective. I will have only one bend to make that will not fit into my 24 inch brake and I will use a make shift shop brake to make that one bend.

    I did not want to have to recreate any of the bends and cuts already in the trunk floor provided with the kit particularly at the forward and rear of the flooring.

    Here is how the panel looks before modification:



    First I cut off the front of the panel leaving a lip at the forward lower lip of the panel:



    This approach includes reclaiming about 1.5 inches of additional space at the forward end of the lower trunk.



    I then modified it to fit around the weld beading on each of the frame members to the side of the trunk.

    In order to get the modified panel to fit against the vertical square tubes that support the front straps of the gas tank, i used the Dremel tool with a grinding head to carefully grind the weld bead down. These will be treated with POR15 and painted with semi gloss black prior to installation:



    The upper trunk floor will be trimmed back to the square tube (about 1.5 inches) before final installation.

    Next Steps:

    1. Remove the rear section of the original trunk floor;
    2. Fabricate a new floor for the upper tank area to the right of the trunk that adds about 1.5 inches in space;
    3. Fabricate the box that goes on the left 2/3 of the trunk to create the new space in the lower trunk.

    Carl
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by carlewms; 09-13-2013 at 11:10 AM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  22. #101
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Lower Trunk Modifications Part 2

    First Breaking News ... I cannot fabricate the boxes without a finger brake purchased or home made. So the darn boxes are NOT done. Instead I focused on the floor and other details needed for a clean trunk installation.

    After fabricating the floor above the higher section of the tank I cut out the box and immediately ran into problems. I cannot bend the the boxes and do require a proper finger brake to make these boxes. I will order the 30 inch 3 in 1 on Monday or farm it all out for about the same cost. I would prefer to buy the equipment, learn a new skill than pay the same amount to some one to produce the two boxes and the expanded foot box.

    I also took the tank back out since I needed to do it for the installation of the sheet metal on the PS and the new quick jack bolts fitted up. This also allowed me to undercoat the complete tank. Here are the results:

    image.jpg

    This is how it looked before I started.

    image.jpg

    I created the panel to over the left side of the tank using 6061 T6 .036 in thick aluminum I panel.

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    Since the plan is to have a bifold cover for the box, in installed a piano hinge along the horizontal section of the forward wall that transitions to the lower to upper trunks.

    image.jpg

    The hinge is attached with 3/16 in rivets.

    Part 3 to follow.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  23. #102
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Lower Trunk Modifications Part 3

    After completing the right side of the trunk top I decided to add a section on the DS of the trunk to square away the access to the box. This also moved the side of the top out to match up with the hinge line. This avoided modifying the DS of the bifold door to clear the frame section in the corner.

    image.jpg

    Since I am reclaiming 1.5 inches of space by moving the lower to upper trunk transition panel forward, I needed to cover the end of the frame exposed now. I probably gone with some type of welded insert but since I have no welder this was easier for me.

    image.jpg

    I will rivet it in so all the tabs are underneath the visible panels.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  24. #103
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Drivers Side Foot Box Access Panel

    This morning I got up and finished the rivnut installation of the access cover on the DS foot box top. Getting the rivnut locations to line up with the cover required some resizing of the access panel holes.

    image.jpg

    The parts from McMaster-Carr arrived this afternoon and I installed the access panel with these knobs:

    image.jpg

    Here is the profile view of the knob from McMaster-Carr

    image.jpg

    Carl

    I may add a gasket material to make it more weather tight.
    Last edited by carlewms; 09-18-2013 at 07:39 AM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
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    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
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  25. #104
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Details, Details and more Details

    Working through a few more modifications ...

    I finished coming up with a version of the rear quick jack bolts for the rear bumper. All the parts came from McMaster-Carr using the same bolt and thread size as the originals:

    image.jpg

    The threaded rod is cut long enough to give plenty of room once the body is on to cut to the appropriate length.

    Another of the mods being installed is the transmission tunnel fresh air vents. As others have done I purchased GMC Yukon vents from eBay, primed the vent and painted it semi gloss black.

    image.jpg

    To help force the air to the vent while in motion I fabricated a sheet metal scoop to go not the inside wall of the transmission tunnel. Here it is in primer, but will be under coated as are the other sections inside the tunnel.

    image.jpg

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  26. #105
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    More Mods

    Yesterday I completed the fabrication of the second, or in my case the DS transmission tunnel, air vent scoop. Here are some some photos showing the steps in the process:

    In order to create the scoop, I laid out the lines on the sheet metal marking which ones are cuts and which are bends. It is sized to fit just outside the 4 inch diameter of the GMC Yukon vents which I painted semi gloss black.

    image.jpg

    I then cut out the basic shape using hand shears and bent it into shape. This time I marked the holes and drilled them before bending.

    image.jpg

    After two primer coats, I sprayed it with a professional version of under coat paint. The good news is the rough surface of the undercoating hides my much less than perfect sheet metal skills.

    image.jpg

    The scoops will be installed on the forward transmission tunnel walls after the cockpit floor panels are installed permanently.

    Car
    Last edited by carlewms; 09-21-2013 at 04:25 AM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  27. #106
    2bking's Avatar
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    Carl, your build is very nice with a lot of personal touches. I think you know your away around sheet metal.

    I like the tunnel vent scoop and am wondering whether you are looking for cool air on a hot day or warm for an autumn drive. I'm thinking the air coming from below will be mostly radiator exhaust and from around the headers. I will be driving mine mostly in the hot climate of Texas. So, will they be helpful for me?
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  28. #107
    2bking's Avatar
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    Carl, I noticed in the picture in post #52 and again in #61 that the spring hat on the bottom of the shock is very close to hitting the lower control arm. Mine looked this way and contacted the arm with very little up swing. I search the forums and found the fix is to make equal spacers to center the shock. I made 4 at .750 long.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  29. #108
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2bking View Post
    Carl, your build is very nice with a lot of personal touches. I think you know your away around sheet metal.

    I like the tunnel vent scoop and am wondering whether you are looking for cool air on a hot day or warm for an autumn drive. I'm thinking the air coming from below will be mostly radiator exhaust and from around the headers. I will be driving mine mostly in the hot climate of Texas. So, will they be helpful for me?
    I cannot remember where I saw it, but there are those that report that you actually get cool air from the vents; others that say the air is hot. I am going to test at go cart stage just to make sure it works before final installation by leaving the boot off the emergency brake and see what happens.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  30. #109
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2bking View Post
    Carl, I noticed in the picture in post #52 and again in #61 that the spring hat on the bottom of the shock is very close to hitting the lower control arm. Mine looked this way and contacted the arm with very little up swing. I search the forums and found the fix is to make equal spacers to center the shock. I made 4 at .750 long.
    Thanks for the heads up. I will check and add the spacers. Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  31. #110
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2bking View Post
    Carl, I noticed in the picture in post #52 and again in #61 that the spring hat on the bottom of the shock is very close to hitting the lower control arm. Mine looked this way and contacted the arm with very little up swing. I search the forums and found the fix is to make equal spacers to center the shock. I made 4 at .750 long.
    I finally got to chance to check the spacers tonight. Here is what I found: the spacers are installed per the manual with a shorter spacer in front and a longer spacer on the rear side. The installation this way does put the hat very close to the LCA. It looks like I should pull these spacers and follow your lead. Thx Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
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  32. #111
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    No Build Action ... But the Parts are Arriving as the Dollars Keep Rolling Out

    I have been away on business travel for the last 2 weeks precluding actually working on the car but not preventing spending money on the car ...

    After initially planning to use a cable clutch per the FFR manual I changed plans going to a hydraulic clutch instead. I received the parts (except the master cylinder yet to be ordered) from Mike Fortes while I was gone.

    image.jpg

    Thanks to some forum help, I now can go forward with my plans to use an FE style burp tank on the SBF engine.

    I first have to acquire a straight thru coolant neck down from the engine block:

    image.jpg

    Use it to replace the current 90 degree neck down:

    image.jpg

    I will then make the modifications to the burp tank to connect the tank to the neck down. Others on the FFcars.com site have done this with success. It will go with the old school look I am trying to achieve. I picked an FE burp tank for about $60 on eBay but it needs the mods to make it work on a SB.

    image.jpg


    image.jpg


    image.jpg

    For information on the modification, check out this link: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/160-mod...all-block.html

    Carl
    Last edited by carlewms; 10-13-2013 at 08:06 PM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  33. #112
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Installation of the Wilwood Clutch Master Cylinder

    After picking up some lock and jam nuts that were mysteriously missing, I finally got the MC installed with the pedal travel adjusted so that I could get full stroke of the cylinder.

    I, like others, had to either cut into the square tube or modify the clutch pedal. I chose the later and decide to do it in place. :idiot2:

    White a real pain to do in place, I do think I was able to get least amount of the pedal arm removed while simultaneously getting the maximum stroke. The indentation of the pedal arm also acts like a stop.



    The clutch and brake pedals are about even with the movement of the pedal to give max stroke to the MC. I think this is the right starting point for adjustment when the transmission is installed.





    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  34. #113
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Trailer Purchased

    On Thursday my latest acquisition arrived from NC. One of the members of the CACC posted a 16 ft trailer for sale and the price was right. It included the wheel chocks, tie downs and the hitch. It needs a little TLC but nothing major. Here are a couple of exterior shots:

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    Before a major haul I will put new rubber on the trailer. A little polish with a wax followup will cleanup most of the exterior. The interior really only needs some tidying up of the wiring. I need to get the included sway control bar cleaned up and get the rust off the fittings (or replace the unit).

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  35. #114
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    EZ EFI 2.0 Update - Conversation with Tech Support

    I finally had a chance to speak with the FAST EZ EFI Tech Support regarding the use of their rubber fuel line with ethanol blended fuels and some other stuff:

    1. The rubber fuel lines they now provide with their kits are certified/qualified to be used with fuels blended with ethanol.

    2. With the 2.0 version of the system you can install it as a returnless system; their returnless system controller varies the speed of the pump (I guess depending on demand) to maintain the constant pressure instead of using a return loop with a pressure regulator. In addition to the return line this eliminates the addition of the pressure regulator and vacuum hose. They claim to have been running a test vehicle for 36,000 miles on the returnless system without failure;

    3. With the 2.0 system you can control the ignition as well but I have yet to see how it saves you anything since you still need an ignition box ... This however could be my lack of understanding of the system :uglystupid2:

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  36. #115
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Fuel Line Installation Part 1

    Now that I got the clearance on using the rubber hoses that came with the FAST EZ EFI system, I can get back to getting the fuel line run from the tank to the engine compartment. I want to get the fuel tank reinstalled and the lines run while the car is on the higher dolly position because access is easier.

    So here is the first of a series of posts focusing on the fuel line installation.

    I finished what I started yesterday on the preparations to install the fuel system from the trunk to the engine compartment, after determining from FAST that the rubber hose they provide is certified for use with ethanol blended fuels, I decided to use the hose provided in my installation.

    Determining the routing took a while to figure out ... Probably too much thinking.

    I will come forward from the tank and mount the fuel filter on the PS IRS box support member. This location will make it easy to remove while simultaneously keeping it and the line away from the moving IRS components.

    image.jpg

    Since there was no mounting bracket for filter supplied by FAST, I fabricated one from aluminum bar. Here are the photos:

    image.jpg


    image.jpg


    image.jpg

    The bracket was sized to hold the filter horizontally across the frame member. The notches in the ends was sized to accept a rubber grommet to hold the filter in place. I mounted a rubber grommet on each end of the filter that fits into the u-shaped filter supports.

    image.jpg

    When the AN 6 fitting is tightened on to the ends of the filter it slightly compresses the rubber grommet to secure the filter in the bracket.

    image.jpg

    Next...prepping and painting the bracket and reinstalling the fuel tank.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  37. #116
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Converting from Serpentine to V Belt

    As most of you know, I am trying to maintain an original look in my build.

    When I had the engine built, I did not specify the pulley belt system, so I have now a serpentine with a reverse flow water pump.

    So here are my questions/assumptions:

    1. Am I reducing reliability/safety by using a v belt over the serpentine system?

    2. I assume I will have buy a new water pump with a normal with a CW direction. Is this correct?

    3. Does anyone have the pulleys or a source for the pulleys? I have found online sources but most are aluminum billet versions and some individual pulleys like the crank (but know complete kits).

    Thanks in advance,

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  38. #117
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I've struggled a bit with belts and pulleys on both of my builds. There are just so many variables, including what accessories you're driving, offsets (including harmonic balancer, water pump, etc.) and drive ratios (whether to underdrive, etc.). There are probably more. I did v-belt with my Mk3, and serpentine with my Mk4. In both cases, only driving a water pump and alternator. Took some experimentation and returned parts in both cases. Good luck! Responses to your questions:

    1. No. V-belts have been used successfully for decades. They probably don't last quite as long, but they're also way cheaper. One of the big advantages of serpentine belts is they can drive from both sides. Can't do that with a V-belt, but depending on your setup may not matter. In general, I found a few more pulley options with serpentine because they're a little more common now. But the right parts should be available either way.

    2. Depends on your setup. If only running a water pump and alternator, then yes a CW water pump.

    3. I used March Performance on both of my builds. Not cheap, but good quality and they have a lot of options. Although I personally haven't called them, I've heard their tech support line can be very helpful to walk you through your setup. Mark Reynolds at Breeze also has a number of pulleys for our builds. Mike Forte is another option. Don't overlook the drive ratio aspect mentioned in my opening. Many go to underdrive pulleys to save some HP, but then later have cooling or charging issues. There are on-line calculators to help with this. I ended up NOT using underdrive on either of my builds. The possible 10-15 HP gain is not worth it for me.

    Here's a thread I started on the other forum setting up the 347 in my Mk4 build. Lots of responses and eventually worked it out. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...alignment.html
    Last edited by edwardb; 11-27-2013 at 11:53 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  39. #118
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Edward,

    Thanks for the very helpful response specially the one about under drive pulleys. I am with you, trying to save 10-15 hp is not worth having cooling or alternator issues.

    If I continue with plans to have AC, I will be driving, the water pump, alternator and compressor.

    Thanks,

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  40. #119
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Carl I think I had a question for you on the other forum which you just answered here w/ the plan for AC. Obviously I want you to build your car the way you want but ...an AC compressor on the driver side makes it a natural to stay w/ a serp belt setup. It's just so easy to run one belt and catch all four pulleys.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  41. #120
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Craig,

    Sooner than later, I have to finalize the decision on AC. The wife wants it; but I see it as more of a PIA at least with respect to the build and my desire to keep with an authentic look.

    Keeping the serpentine belt system with AC would make it all a lot easier and save on replacing the pulleys, brackets, etc.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

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