How to do Initial Alignment of MK4

[Slider]

I'm almost positive that I saw a really good post a few weeks ago on how to do the initial alignment of the MK4. And since I'm at that stage now, I'm looking for it, but of course, cannot find it. Does anyone else remember this, or where it might be located? Or just as good, does anyone have a good write-up available that they'd be willing to share? Trying to get this done tonight if possible. Thanks in advance.

[Mark Dougherty]

IRS or solid axle

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Solid. 3 Link

IRS or solid axle

[QSL]

I am going to be honest here. The rear we did align. But the front, I simply just made both arms look the same. I go karted it and it drove / handled excellent! LOL. I drove it on the freeway. 65mph about 40 miles on the way to the alignment shop. It was a little off, but very drivable and seemed to steer really good. I was very impressed. When I got to the shop, they told me is was wicked off, like completely F'd UP!!!

Moral of story... well, these cars drive great when you F them up!! LOL.

[Slider]

Love it! I guess I don't need to worry about being too perfect then! Thanks. (Still... if anyone remembers the posting I saw a few weeks ago, I'd still like to see it... if nothing else, just to help me get it close!)

I am going to be honest here. The rear we did align. But the front, I simply just made both arms look the same. I go karted it and it drove / handled excellent! LOL. I drove it on the freeway. 65mph about 40 miles on the way to the alignment shop. It was a little off, but very drivable and seemed to steer really good. I was very impressed. When I got to the shop, they told me is was wicked off, like completely F'd UP!!!

Moral of story... well, these cars drive great when you F them up!! LOL.

[RSxx]

I think i remember the post you are refering to, where is it beats me.
I believe his quick alignment involved 2 (one for each side) long square tubes lined up against the disc brakes , then Measure corner to corner and side to side. that apparently gave him some good starting alignment to then drive it to the shop.

hope that helps.

[Mike N]

Are you trying to get it close enough to drive to the alignment shop or are you trying to align it to final? Getting it close enough is not hard to do getting it to final specs takes some time and some special tools.

Basics. You want the rear end centered in the chassis. Take a long straight edge, tube, pipe, angle even a 2 x 4 would do in a pinch and set it touching the rear tire front and back at about axle height extending to the front of the car. If you are doing this by yourself you will need some blocks or bricks to support the straight edge. Measure from the straight edge to the frame at the same point on each side. The body mount under the door is probably the most convenient. Now adjust the panhard (track bar) rod to get the measurements the same on each side. You can always adjust this later to fine tune the tire to body on each side.

Next you want all four wheels pointed straight ahead. First set the thrust angle of the rear end. You know how sometimes you follow a vehicle and it looks like it's crabbing down the road, well that's because the rear isn't square to the chassis or the thrust angle is off. Using the same straight edge set it touching the rear tire front and back at about axle height extending to the front of the car. Now measure from the straight edge to the front wheel hub. Now do the same on the other side. They should be the same distance if not then the rear end is not square in the car and the lower control arms will need adjusting assuming that you have adjustable arms.

Now set the front wheel toe. Again with the straight edge touching the rear tire measure from the straight edge to the front and back of the front rim. For the wheels to be pointed straight ahead these measurements should be the same. Most cars are aligned with the front of the wheels slightly closer (1/16") than the rear this is toe in. You adjust this by turning the tie rod on the end of the steering rack. This is a very sensitive adjustment and once you get close only a small fraction of a turn of the tie rod will be needed. This is also much easier if you have two straight edges one on each side of the car.

Now go get a bubble level and stand it vertically against the front wheel use a spacer so that the level is touching the rim and not the tire. If you have a digital level then set it so that the front wheel is leaning in towards the center of the car by 1 degree. You can adjust this by the turnbuckles on the upper control arm. If you are using a bubble level then just set it plumb. Try to keep the upper control arm turnbuckles the same length front and back as this adjusts your caster setting that will be set by the alignment shop. For now you just want to keep them the same side to side.

Now you have done it once go back and repeat the sequence over again. If you were close before you started you should find that you will need very small or even no further adjustments. This will get you very close and the better equipment that you use the closer you will be. If you use a piece of angle and a digital level and take your time you will be very close. A 2 x 4 and a plumb bob well not so much but it will be better than nothing and way better than trying to do it by eye.

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Thanks so much. Just curious if it makes any difference if I'm doing this while it's on jackstands, or if I need full weight on the tires. It seems to me that I need it sitting with full weight on the tires, but it seems to me that I've seen others do it even with tires off (Front end anyway).

[QSL]

Yes, have all the weight in the car and on the ground.

[Slider]

Thanks to all who responded. Headed out to the garage to get it done! The feedback was good confirmation of what I suspected, and the details provided will make it that much easier! Thanks again.

Yes, have all the weight in the car and on the ground.