What did you do to, about or for your coupe today?

[Rodster]

Anyone running an MSD Atomic EFI system? I am. I have not found much info on this and that forum, so I will post stuff as I make my way thru it. Anyway, the Atomic system comes with fuel pump and filters, these are 3/8-inch. But the Complete Kit tank and fittings are 5/16. . . so I got some adapters from Summit.

Anyway - today I started to mock up where to mount the external fuel pump and how to run the lines. Didn't get too far, I need to figure out what and how to do this. Here are some pictures of my fuel pump mounting plate.

Other than making sure nothing will hit or crunch the filters, pump and lines - are there any other precautions or hints that I should be aware of? The flex fuel line will run along the passenger side chassis rail, like most builders have been doing. The second filter will mount near the passenger seat area, but have not decided on the final location.

kh6wz-fuel-system1-004.jpg

kh6wz-fuel-system1-005.jpg

More details on my WordPress site:

http://wayneyoshida-kh6wz.com/2013/1...system-begins/

[John Dol]

Just make sure you can get to it where ever you put it!

John

[Dick Z]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuMuB...ature=youtu.be

First go kart drive!

Complete Type 65 Coupe kit, Ford Racing 306, T5/S10 tranny, IRS. Received 1/24/13.

[Fluge]

Congratulations Dick. I was so excited on my first go-kart that I forgot to record it.

I had to make an additional access panel through the trunk floor in order to access the fuel filter from above. The fuel pump can be accessed from above or below.

Marc

[Rodster]

Been busy with work, business travel, holidays and some kind of flu. But got a chance to hang these inside the house - -

kh6wz-001.jpg


kh6wz-002.jpg


In the garage: Started making a new bracket for the external fuel pump (again), decided to run a return fuel line system, will be installing that this weekend. Planning on where the access panels will go in the trunk area.

Coupe builders with IRS - Mark VIII / Ford Racing pumpkin and FFMetal battery box:
How do you fill/drain the rear end? I noticed at my last work session the battery box blocks the fill and drain plugs in the rear. Not too big of a deal, but this means the rivets will have to be replaced with screws/nuts or - removable pins or something.

I am thinking of adding a threaded rod or something on one end of the battery box, creating a hinge point, then I can remove some screws on the opposite side and tilt the battery box up to access the pumpkin fill and drain holes.

This is not a great picture showing what I mean - but take a look anyway:

kh6wz-003.jpg

Any suggestions are welcome.....

Thanks and Happy New Year.

[Rodster]

Dick Z - she sounds great! Congrats on the significant mile stone!

[John Dol]

Dick,

Congrats on the go cart, I can remember mine like it was 4 months ago. That's probably because it was 4 months ago.
Is that Citroen yours? Growing up they were the car of choice for college students since they were cheap and good on gas. Don't see those much here though. Always felt like you were tipping over when cornering.

John

[Dick Z]

No 2CV's for me, John, but I love seeing them when we're in France. They're just the antithesis of the coupe.

[Austexican]

Today, I installed my Russ Thompson sun visors and my wife and I joined up with some of the Austin Cobra Club at the Cars and Coffee meet at the Oasis Restaurant on Lake Travis. Even at a meet that draws a number or Ferraris, Aston Martins, Jaguars, Maseratis, Vipers, various Cobra roadster replicas, a Lotus, and one McLaren; the only Daytona Coupe draws a crowd! The most unusual vehicle was a 1959 Volkswagen pickup. The three sides of the bed fold down to form a flat bed truck. I wonder if the VW's load rating would allow it to serve as a car transporter for the Daytona? That would be a comical combination.

[Rodster]

Finally got back to the garage to get some work done. Got all the interior sheet metal drilled and Cleco'ed. Here's something that bugged me for a while, but as I was drilling this area, I pushed the "A" piece inward from under the chassis, and closed that gap between the floor and the A-piece. This is the area I am talking about:

img_8007-kh6wz-65-coupe-cockpit-al-fixed-space.jpg

And a closer view:

img_8008-kh6wz-65-coupe-cockpit-al-fixed-space.jpg

Question:
Does something cover this area, or do I need to fabricate a new piece? Both sides are the same. This is the driver side at the rear of where the door would go:
img_8005-kh6wz-65-coupe-cockpit-al-correct-or-not.jpg

Does something fill that small triangular space?

Started running fuel lines. My 302 has an Atomic EFI and I will be running return lines. That should be easy....

[Fluge]

Trial fit the door sill pieces. They have to be installed after the body so don't drill the holes yet. You'll be able to see what kind of overlap there is between the sill piece and the piece you are asking about.

Marc

[loeffler1]

The floor area in mine at the 4" tube did not fit qnd I ended up fabricating a piece to cover the gap. One of the many pieces you'll find that needs to be fabricated. before long you'll be an old hand at it!!

[TimC]

I put the engine back in.

[snakebit31]

Wet sanded the whole body

Timb,
I have no experience with the red bodied coupes, just my grey body roadster and coupe. When I did my seams, they had to be ground out and leveled with filler. I uses a glass strand filler mix (kitty hair), then sanded and filled the body as needed. With you wet snading, are you going right to paint?

Rob

[Timb]

Hi Rob
I ground down the seams as well but my thought was I should wetsand/scuff the whole body before applying the filler to promote a better bond. I am deep in rage gold and sanding right now

[John Dol]

Finally a break in the weather between two storms. Thirty degrees outside and with my little heater made it do-able to not freeze my tongue to the frame.
Worked on my wiring, and so far my horns are working. I have the Russ Thompson turn stalk so it complicates things a little. Getting close though to finishing that up. I ended up wiring the horn to the stalk button, and the plan is to use a foot switch for the brights. Keeping my fingers crossed for more mild winter days!

John

[jkrueger]

I added some engine compartment cooling vents.

[loeffler1]

How do these vents work facing downward? Does the air coming through the radiator catch on the vents and is forced through them? Seems as though the air would take the easiest route straight up the chute.

[jkrueger]

Yes, that is the intended effect. I want air that is coming through the radiator to be forced into the engine compartment then for that air to go out the side vents or under the car.

JC

[Owlknight360]

Hey JC,

I thought the whole point of the air channel from the nose opening, through the radiator and out the hood was to take the hot air and expel it. By adding the louvers in that area, I would think you would pull the hot air just exspelled from the radiator and soak it back into the engine. I would think that pulling air from under the nose or through the hood before the radiator discharge would be the best method.

Just my thoughts...

[jkrueger]

The air coming through the radiator though hot, has to be cooler that what is under the hood. It is not any different than an OEM car with air coming through the radiator and into the engine compartment. I just want to get some air moving by the engine to help cool the engine compartment. I have wire loom melting that is 8-12" from the exhaust pipes. We will see how it works the next time on the track.

JC

[Austexican]

I picked up my coupe from Phil Clarkson at South 1st Performance in Austin who installed FFR IRS with Lincoln rear and 3.23 gears (prev 3.73 and four point). Tomorrow I will test the setup at Harris Hill Raceway in San Marcos as a participant in the Texas Cobra Club Spring Meet track day.

[Rodster]

I made some brackets out of 1/8-in. aluminum plate: A fuel pump mount, and 2 "bulkhead" plates that mount to the triangular mounts for the IRS upper arms. These will be used to route/fasten the fuel lines (supply and return) and the e-brake cable on the passenger side. An identical bracket (mirror image) on the driver side will hold the other e-brake cable and the rear wiring harness.

Looks like this:
img_8404-kh6wz-triangle-bracket-installed-p-side.jpg

Another view:
img_8406-kh6wz-triangle-bracket-fuel-line.jpg

Mounted the fuse panel under the dash. Has anyone noticed how flimsy this panel is? I didn't like the flexing, so I added a small bracket to screw into, like this - see the little silver bracket in there?
img_8422-kh6wz-added-bracket-for-fuse-panel.jpg

How about that e-brake? My cables are about 4 inches too short! I ordered a kit from North Race Cars....
img_8370-kh6wz-e-brake-assy1.jpg

More details on my WordPress site....

[John Dol]

Wired the driver front lights. Used the weather pack connectors. Have to secure it to the body yet.



The loose wired are for the extra front blinkers that will be frenched in to to nose.

John

[TNcoupe]

Picked up my wheels from the powdercoater. Undercoated my hood to cover the overspray from painting 3 years ago. Installed a Canton road race oil pan and fixed radiator sheet metal that broke at speed one day.

[Bradyman]

Finished running the brake lines, installed the fuel tank and riveted the passenger floor and footbox in place. Good days work for me.
brake lines 477.jpgbrake lines 478.jpgbrake lines 480.jpgfootbox 479.jpg
Sorry, my first attempt to attach photos.

[Timb]

After much trimming, grinding, reglassing and sanding I got the rear spoiler to a shape and fit I was happy with.

[Garry Bopp]

Lookin' good, Tim!

Garry

[CobraKai]

Hey Bradyman, tell us about the paint on your aluminum foot box panels. Looks nice? Is it powder coat? Spray paint? What's the color?

Thanks!

Jeff

[Bradyman]

Hey Bradyman, tell us about the paint on your aluminum foot box panels. Looks nice? Is it powder coat? Spray paint? What's the color?

Thanks!

Jeff

Hi Jeff. It is a Martin Senour paint with clearcoat. Color is Sterling Gray Metallic #56-82209-A.
This is the same color that I will put on the body. The stripe color is still undecided but I have a Phoenix Yellow BMW M3 that I will sell when the car is finished and I may paint the stripe the M3 color in its honor.

[CobraKai]

Thanks for the info Bradyman! It looks fantastic. And I think a coupe that color with Phoenix Yellow stripes is gonna be wicked!

[Bradyman]

Thanks Cobrakai, we are as much as a year away from paint so who knows how many times I'll change my mind on the stripe color. At least the body color is set.

[CobraKai]

Thanks Cobrakai, we are as much as a year away from paint so who knows how many times I'll change my mind on the stripe color. At least the body color is set.

I hear you! I change my mind about color a lot. I always end up back with the classic guardsman blue and wimbledon white. I'm keeping everything else neutral just in case.

I thought of this car when you mentioned your color scheme. I love it.

BDR857.6.jpg

[Bradyman]

That is a beautiful car! My main color is a bit lighter and the stripe has less orange but it would be very similar.

[CobraKai]

Yeah, it looks good. If I ever decide to get a roadster I honestly think I'd go Backdraft Racing, in that color scheme. It's about 41K completely built. You just add the motor and tranny and go! They are really beautiful cars. Can't wait to see yours Bradyman!

[loeffler1]

Blasphemy!!!!!!!!!!!!

[CobraKai]

Blasphemy!!!!!!!!!!!!

I know Bill!!! But keep in mind I'm about 8 months into a coupe build and the thought of doing another one is just too much at the moment. Gimme a couple of years after this one is done and I bet I'm ready for another!

jeff

[TNcoupe]

Put wheels and new Nitto NT05s on today, moved oil temp sensor to new oil pan, replaced freshly painted sidepipes, washed and waxed.

[Bradyman]

Finished running the hard fuel lines and took it off the rotisserie.
fuel lines 485.jpgfuel lines 483.jpgfuel lines clamp 484.jpglowering 488.jpg

[CobraKai]

Looks good Bradyman. Where did you get the sweet fuel line clips?

jeff