Has anyone split their Fiberglass trans tunnel into two pieces? Seems like it would make installing and the routing of wiring a little easier. Any thoughts on downsides or cons?
Thanks
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Has anyone split their Fiberglass trans tunnel into two pieces? Seems like it would make installing and the routing of wiring a little easier. Any thoughts on downsides or cons?
Thanks
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
I had to split the tunnel to fit over my TKO500. After I got the two pieces held in place with cleco's I used pop rivets to add an aluminum strip on the bottom, fiberglassed the top and used body filler to smooth it out. A little primer and its like new again.IMG_6654.JPGIMG_6668.JPGIMG_6670.JPGIMG_6674.JPGIMG_6682.JPGIMG_6686.JPG
CVOBill
MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater
Some of the guys have just cut the front piece to squeeze a little more foot room by pinching the tunnel. I think I just modified the front of the center cover to make a wiring change. I flipped my tko shifter forward and used an offset stick to get it back a little. I have a little more set back than most. This combined with the front split allows me to get the tranny and engine out by only removing the front center section. Behind the shifter I just glassed it like Bill did above. Heat/sound barrier is the most important part of the tunnel fab.
I ended up doing a more major change to try and gain more room for our legs and feet. I still have to make some more minor changes however I have gained about 1-1/2" at the accelerator pedal location due to the change and some room further back. I have a TKO600 transmission so its thin at the back end but the bell housing is still thick at the front. Some more minor changes to allow for clearances so the tranny does not rub anywhere and we will be done.
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The challenge is still how to run the wiring and seal it up afterwards. Going to pick up a variety of rubber glands that we may be able to use to try and keep it as clean as possible.
That's good to know. I plan on the same tranny, and will likely build an all-aluminum cover like tcollins did but I was curious on actual numbers for extra space possible.
So is it best to use that space for accel only, or bump the pedal box over and share it over to the clutch?
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
We were comfortable with the accelerator space as is even though my son wears size 11 shoes. Having the accelerator pedal a little back should be fine however we may not mount it until I mock up the seat on the slides and check to make sure my wife can reach everything properly (she's 5'6 and shorter legs compared to us guys at 6'). It comes down to personal preference in the end.