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Thread: Andrew's 818S - LYTW8

  1. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Andrew, even the race spoiler doesn't go all the way to the wheel well opening if you stick it out 3" on the front side. But yes, it does seem the R version is deeper, but only by maybe 3-4". I have some pics up of mine and you can see a gap between the wheel well opening and the back of the splitter but it's not as pronounces as your pic with the S splitter.
    I'll look more closely at your pictures. I would love to have an S spoiler overlaid on an R so I could determine where exactly the length differences are.

    With the current part it would not be terribly difficult to make a mold and modify it for better fit on the new nose.

  2. #282
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    The R splitter is 22" from middle front to middle back.

  3. #283
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Andrew, considering you're probably not sticking out 3", the race splitter would be pretty flush with the fenders. But at 3" no. If you stick out what FFR recommands, on the race splitter it sits flush with fenders.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  4. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    Looks rather puny, but I guess OK for a street car.
    Was thinking of you when I was at Daytona.
    Attachment 63596One version (not shown) does not have Gurney flaps in front.
    Attachment 63598
    I love the Intrepid. I designed an built all of the cars electrical systems.
    Interesting note. It had 5000 pounds of downforce at about 100 mph and broke its tail lights in a few laps. Leds were just coming out and I had to custom build led lights-nowhere to buy in 1990.
    Last edited by frankc5r; 02-03-2017 at 01:28 PM.

  5. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Andrew, considering you're probably not sticking out 3", the race splitter would be pretty flush with the fenders. But at 3" no. If you stick out what FFR recommands, on the race splitter it sits flush with fenders.
    Frank, do you have a picture of this in your thread? I don't recall seeing it.

  6. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankc5r View Post
    I love the Intrepid. I designed an built all of the cars electrical systems.
    Interesting note. It had 5000 pounds of downforce at about 100 mph and broke its tail lights in a few laps. Leds were just coming out and I had to custom build led lights-nowhere to buy in 1990.
    Do you work at Pratt & Miller?

  7. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    The R splitter is 22" from middle front to middle back.
    Sweet. I'll compare to the S and then I can see how it all lands. It seems a little silly to buy an R, but it may be necessary. My S is the absolute junk see-through single layer of carbon with fiberglass backing anyway.

  8. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aero STI View Post
    Do you work at Pratt & Miller?
    Worked for P&M before it was P&M. Gary PRATT started in company in late
    70's and it was called Protofab. Became P&M in 1989. C5r vettes started in 1999 with first race
    in 2000. Particularly remember working with Dale Sr and Jr in 2001 at Daytona 24 hr. IMG_0662.JPG

    Picture from 2017 Roar test.

  9. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aero STI View Post
    Frank, do you have a picture of this in your thread? I don't recall seeing it.
    Yeah. Oh wait, you mean a pic of the race splitter flush with fenders? That I did not cuz I didn't fit it like that. But I can fake fitting it like that tomorrow and take a pic. My whole front end is on.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  10. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Yeah. Oh wait, you mean a pic of the race splitter flush with fenders? That I did not cuz I didn't fit it like that. But I can fake fitting it like that tomorrow and take a pic. My whole front end is on.
    That would be much appreciated. Thanks!

  11. #291
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    Here you go, man!


    2017-02-05 12.07.34_1.jpg2017-02-05 12.19.56_1.jpg2017-02-05 12.20.08_1.jpg2017-02-05 12.20.14_1.jpg2017-02-05 12.20.27_1.jpg


    Just one thing, I had to support the splitter with 2 boxes and it's short 1" from touching the body, the boxes where not tall enough. You can see it's flush with fenders on the wheel section, it can be better than that if you spent a few mins more to make it 100% flush, it was difficult for me with the boxes and 1" underneath the body as well.

    The splitter was 1" or 1.25" sticking out. Any more than that and it will NOT be flush with fenders.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  12. #292
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    That's very helpful Frank!

    I purchased Craig's hood hinges and had them powder coated black. I hope to install them this week and keep making progress with body work. This winter has been so unseasonably warm in Michigan. It's making me very anxious to get the car done.


  13. #293
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    I hear you on the unusually warm weather, same up here, very motivating.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  14. #294
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    My Tillet seats arrived today. They're super light and very comfortable. The carbon fiber is flawless. Stark contrast to the FFR stuff. I'm excited to ditch the fabric Corbeau seats. After only two Michigan summers of limited sun exposure they're very faded.








  15. #295
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Wow! Wild looking seats!
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  16. #296
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    Andrew could you post some better photos of your door panel/dash interface. Did you have to cut out the frs door panels in the front to get them to line up well with the wrx dash?

    Nvm found the pics I was looking for
    Last edited by 07FIREBLADE; 02-26-2017 at 10:33 PM.

  17. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by 07FIREBLADE View Post
    Andrew could you post some better photos of your door panel/dash interface. Did you have to cut out the frs door panels in the front to get them to line up well with the wrx dash?

    Nvm found the pics I was looking for
    I carved into the dash rather than the door. There is a small lip removed at the bottom of the door, and then the end near the latch is shaped to match the door contour. Let me know if you still need additional pictures.

  18. #298
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    Last edited by Aero STI; 08-20-2018 at 03:36 PM.

  19. #299
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    I've missed some good stuff the past few pages. How did the pems work out on the headlight? Bwalker had to orient his screws in all the same direcrion. Did you have to do that?
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  20. #300
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    Last edited by Aero STI; 08-20-2018 at 03:37 PM.

  21. #301
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    Slick! You'll be really glad you have those hood hinges, with the tank being up front.

  22. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aero STI View Post
    Front tank design is off to Boyd Welding for quoting.
    It's easy to back seat drive... but why not gain more volume with it squarer on the right and use a bottom baffle detail much like a surge tank around the pickup area? Back in the day, we used simple hinges to act as trap doors for surge.

  23. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    It's easy to back seat drive... but why not gain more volume with it squarer on the right and use a bottom baffle detail much like a surge tank around the pickup area? Back in the day, we used simple hinges to act as trap doors for surge.
    Nothing has been built yet. I'll gladly take criticism and refine the design. I'm not following the squaring up on the right. The areas in the back of the tank are for the brake and clutch master cylinders. The bottom baffle might be cool. I can't believe my fuel level would be very accurate though. I'm going to be utilizing the Holley hydramat that I bought previously and I figured the angled design will naturally keep the fuel low in the tank during sweeping corners that starve a flat tank. The hydramat is a rectangle that nearly exactly matches the bottom of my design.



    The thing I'm most excited about is freeing up the space behind the seat so I can stick my turbo in front of the engine. With the dry sump I'll be able to plumb the turbo drain directly to the pan.

  24. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Slick! You'll be really glad you have those hood hinges, with the tank being up front.
    I know!

  25. #305
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    In red is my proposed change. Dashed gold is optional angled floor of tank. Cutout is to clear the steering. Vertical red is baffles on each side of the Hydromat. In the bottom of each vertical baffle you would have small notches to let the fuel in probably equivalent to some factor of what the pump can move and perhaps accounting for 30% more for E85. The Hydramat should do the trick without flaps being necessary. With the V shape you are losing near half of potential volume.
    gas tank.png
    You might want to give some thought to clearance of the tank to the frame, vibration isolation mounts and/or flexible mounts that can absorb some frame movement in case of front-end damage. In other words, don't fit it too tight or too solidly with hard mounting and stay off the tank seams and have crushable mounts. I'm not a big fan of squarish welded tanks because the seams might rupture. Might be something to ask Boyd about.
    There are aftermarket "vertical" sending units for the gas level that don't use a conventional swing-arm float.
    Last edited by Scargo; 03-04-2017 at 02:13 PM.

  26. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    In red is my proposed change. Dashed gold is optional angled floor of tank. Cutout is to clear the steering. Vertical red is baffles on each side of the Hydromat. In the bottom of each vertical baffle you would have small notches to let the fuel in probably equivalent to some factor of what the pump can move and perhaps accounting for 30% more for E85. The Hydramat should do the trick without flaps being necessary. With the V shape you are losing near half of potential volume.
    gas tank.png
    You might want to give some thought to clearance of the tank to the frame, vibration isolation mounts and/or flexible mounts that can absorb some frame movement in case of front-end damage. In other words, don't fit it too tight or too solidly with hard mounting and stay off the tank seams and have crushable mounts. I'm not a big fan of squarish welded tanks because the seams might rupture. Might be something to ask Boyd about.
    There are aftermarket "vertical" sending units for the gas level that don't use a conventional swing-arm float.
    I think I follow you. I would need to do some major frame mods to get that to fit in the front. I'm basically taking Lance's design and fitting it to the stock subaru master cylinders. There should be 1/4"-3/8" space between the tubes of the frame and I have some nice 3M isolating rubber that I'm planning to use.

    Here's lance's completed tank for reference: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post222041

  27. #307
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Someone here removed the under-frame and bolted it back in place once the tank was in.

  28. #308
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    BobnCincy did that I believe. BillWalker also is doing a front tank and cut out some parts (or is planning to).
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  29. #309
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    I started widening the rear ducts. You can see the slit I cut on the upper and lower portion of the vent. I determined how much I could open them up without too much stress then created two identical foam templates so both sides will be the same size. I did some sectioning on the upper to get the shape closer. I fiberglassed the upper with two layers of 3 oz mat. Once dry I'll do a few more layers and also take care of the lower.










  30. #310
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Once you start modifying the fibreglass you just can't stop. The larger scoops look good, my drivers side is filled with intercooler but once I widened the passenger side I really like the bigger scoop, suits the car. Good work!
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
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    Arrived 01/02/2014
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  31. #311
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Yes, good work! I have thought that, when I get to it, I would slit from the vertical, inner, upper and lower corners and push the "released" inside panel in and fill that in. You started in the middle, which may make more sense.

  32. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canadian818 View Post
    Once you start modifying the fibreglass you just can't stop. The larger scoops look good, my drivers side is filled with intercooler but once I widened the passenger side I really like the bigger scoop, suits the car. Good work!
    So true! I've got some work on the back end to do then I should be done with the major fiberglass work.

  33. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    Yes, good work! I have thought that, when I get to it, I would slit from the vertical, inner, upper and lower corners and push the "released" inside panel in and fill that in. You started in the middle, which may make more sense.
    Many ways to skin this cat. I could see the corner slit method working pretty well too.

  34. #314
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    I applied 3 more layers on the upper and 5 layers in one go on the lower. I laid up the fiberglass for the lower on wax paper then pressed it into place and had some foam pieces keep it pressed in place. I put down a coating of the 3M vinyl ester high strength filler too. The rough work is done.






  35. #315
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aero STI View Post
    Many ways to skin this cat. I could see the corner slit method working pretty well too.
    Do you feel that the opening was all the flex you could get out of the fiberglass, did you run into frame behind it or was it just what you wanted? How wide is the opening at the top?
    I could see scoring the backside to get it to bend more if needed or desired.

  36. #316
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    That was fun to read, nice work!

  37. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    Do you feel that the opening was all the flex you could get out of the fiberglass, did you run into frame behind it or was it just what you wanted? How wide is the opening at the top?
    I could see scoring the backside to get it to bend more if needed or desired.
    Glen, I could have flexed it further. This is what I thought looked good and was reasonable flex. I tried the scoring method on the hood and it didn't work as well as I expected. Certainly nothing like plywood. The only real limitation I see would be interference with the fuel fill, but that's going away on mine anyways. My opening is around 4.5" at the top.


  38. #318
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    Last edited by Aero STI; 08-20-2018 at 03:37 PM.

  39. #319
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    that is exactly how I opened my vent up as well, makes it look more aggressive

  40. #320
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    Very nice build, but I have 2 questions: where did you source your seats from? Is that a seat cover on pass seat or a different style Tillett seat?

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