Started a new Hotrod build today.

[michael everson]

Started a new Hotrod build today for a customer in Vermont. This car will be powered by a Coyote engine, Tremec TKO and 8.8 with 3 link. I will try to update this post every weekend as I progress.

Here is the first part bolted to the chassis. The pedal box will have a hydraulic master for the clutch as well.






Here is the first batch of many that will get powdercoated black. This batch includes some of the front suspension parts, Ebrake parts, Brake light switch mount, and a few more bits.






These are the front lower control arms after powdercoating and assembly.




Steering rack mounted.




The customer has decided to go with the Boyd fuel tank. This thing is a work of art.

[michael everson]

I used 1/4-20 button head screws to secure it in 6 places.




You will need a right angle drill in order to reach the side mounting tabs.



On the rear body mounts inside the wheel well, I choose to tap the hole 3/8-16 instead of using a 5/16 bolt Makes it easier to assemble.



More to come.

[wallace18]

I am glad someone who has much experiece is doing this thread. Thanks for sharing.

[michael everson]

Started fitting the firewall today. Placed the upper in its spot that mounted the lower panels and got everything lined up.





Once I was happy with the location I clecoed several holes to hold them in place. Then I drilled and tapped each hole 10-32 and secured with button head stainless screws



I tapped the holes on the joint between the upper and lower plates. that way only one set of screws are needed to hold both in place.

[H R Lucky]

Mike,
(you said) "Started fitting the firewall today. Placed the upper in its spot that the lower panels and got everything lined up."

I am a novice in building a FFR 33HR but from everything I've read on the forums I was under the impression that you had to fit the body onto the frame in order to be sure the firewall is aligned correctly. If that's not true then it will save me a lot of trial fitting my firewall. just want to get it right for my own clarification.

thanks,
Nevin

[first time builder]

Mike, Looking good as usual but boy is your wife going to be pissed about the oven !!!

Kenny

[michael everson]

Nevin. There isnt much room to adjust the firewall due to the frame members passing through it. See pictures. Your better off fitting the firewall to the chassis then trimming it (if needed) to fit the contour of the body.
Mike

[michael everson]

I got all the floor and rear wall drilled. This will be installed later, but its easier to do it now before theres lots of stuff in the way. I find it easier to cut the driver side panel and install it in 2 pieces. I cut it right near where your left foot would be. Less chance of scratching the powder coating once this is done.







Also preinstalled the complete steering system. I found the bolts to mount the column are too long and need to be cut or replaced. They actually hit each other before they are tight.


Here is the power steering unit installed. I will remove it before installing the engine. I am sure it will need to be clocked differently with the Coyote engine.

[michael everson]

More pictures of the front suspension parts powder coated.



Upper control arm



Rear end with 3 link kit has been installed. This car will be using Wilwood brakes front and rear.

[michael everson]

Had the day off from work today, so got some more done on the Hotrod.
I spent the day powdercoating and assembling the front suspension and brakes.









Here are a couple of pictures of the massive Wilwood brakes.

[michael everson]

These brakes are amazingly well thought out. Every part fit like a glove. Even the instructions from Wilwood show the parts on a FFR.

[michael everson]

Here is the start of running the brake lines. A third line will be run once I get the hydraulic clutch parts n.

[michael everson]

And finally after the brake lines were completed, she was dropped onto the ground. These are not the final wheels. Just borrowing these to roll around on.







My next project for this coming weekend will be to assemble the drivetrain and put it in place. I will then start tackling the air conditioner and heat. Wish me luck.
Mike

[Boz1911]

Thanks for starting this thread. My 33 will be here in a few weeks and you're already answering several questions I had. I'm building an old school 408 stroker motor as we speak. My differential is ready to pick up, and every day it seems I'm ordering more parts from somewhere. Been a while since I've done anything like this so I'm excited and nervous at the same time. Biggest thing I've had to grasp is that I am going to make some mistakes, fix them and go on.

[michael everson]

It's really just nuts and bolts. Easy to fix those kind of mistakes.
Just take your time and you will be fine. Factory Five has done a wonderful job with the new manuals, packaging of components and overall quality compared to the last one I built.

[ursa5000]

Great pictures of the build....please keep 'em coming. I'm really interested in how the power steering unit will be squeezed in after the engine install.

Da Bear

[Boz1911]

It's really just nuts and bolts. Easy to fix those kind of mistakes.
Just take your time and you will be fine. Factory Five has done a wonderful job with the new manuals, packaging of components and overall quality compared to the last one I built.

That's encouraging. Been building the 408 while I've been waiting. Finally finished the bottom end after solving a bunch of issues regarding the main cap girdle. Here's a mock-up pic, still have to degree the cam and check valve to piston clearance.P6190035.JPG. I know powder coat is more durable but do you think painting the front suspension components will hold up? Don't think my wife will let me use the oven...

[michael everson]

Spent the weekend mating the transmission to the engine and installing the package. Here are some pictures of the progress.











Really didn't have any issues installing the drivetrain except the rear lift hook. It was almost impossible to get it out once the engine was installed. Next time I will find a better way to lift it.

[michael everson]

Trans in place.

Here is the radiator with my fan shroud installed. Every HotRod should have one of these. Im not just saying that because I have 100 of them in stock.







Strange place to mount the computer.

Block offs in place. I chose to remove the nipple and pipe tap the hole instead. Really don't like those rubber caps for coolant.

[Boz1911]

Are you having to relocate the oil filter? And yes I think I need one of them shrouds.

[michael everson]

Here is the start of the Air conditioner install. If you see me doing something wrong please let me know. No need to reinvent the wheel.

I mounted the bulkhead fittings as described in the FFR manual. Make sure you do this after the floor is installed. Makes it real difficult to get in afterwards.



I then started working on the unit behind the dash. I decided to mount it on one of my Firewall kits to give it more rigidity and more places to secure it. This will also allow me to mount the fuse box to the same panel. Its in the same location, just a little more secure.

[michael everson]

I decided to run the hoses through the fan cover rather than over and around it. Much cleaner look, but will require me buying some more 45 degree fittings. The fittings are only $4.00 each, so no big deal.

[michael everson]

Here is a shot of the underside of the floor aluminum. I put some fire retardant material on there to help with the heat. It will also be insulated on the inside as well. I have seen the carpet under the seat melted on a couple of HotRods I have worked on.



I finally picked up the right alternator and got that mounted. It was pretty straight forward. I had a terrible time trying the remove the non ribbed pulley from the tensioner. I ended up braking the bolt. Had to buy a new one. They are loctited in so use heat.



One of the bolts FFR supplied was the wrong length.



Spent some time today mocking up the trans tunnel. It is a very tight fit over the Tremec. Not much room for error. It fit pretty well. Not sure why FFR made the center removable, but I like it.





Any one that has installed the air, where did you mount the drier?
Mike

[wallace18]

Here is a shot of the underside of the floor aluminum. I put some fire retardant material on there to help with the heat. It will also be insulated on the inside as well. I have seen the carpet under the seat melted on a couple of HotRods I have worked on.



I finally picked up the right alternator and got that mounted. It was pretty straight forward. I had a terrible time trying the remove the non ribbed pulley from the tensioner. I ended up braking the bolt. Had to buy a new one. They are loctited in so use heat.



One of the bolts FFR supplied was the wrong length.



Spent some time today mocking up the trans tunnel. It is a very tight fit over the Tremec. Not much room for error. It fit pretty well. Not sure why FFR made the center removable, but I like it.





Any one that has installed the air, where did you mount the drier?
Mike

Mike I made a bracket and installed it on the right frame rail. You can see it on my build thread.

[Tom Veale]

Hi Mike, Re: Battery Box...............

I had to replace the battery in #007 today. (hard to believe it is old enough to need replacement!) It started showing just 11 volts on the key, so replaced it. With the small size (9"Lx9"Hx5"D) I had to look around a bit for a replacement. I bought a D-51 Optima battery (not the least expensive, but I've had good luck with them) which fits the small box you fabricated just fine. It certainly was easier to replace than if it had been mounted in the FFR suggested place. Without even charging the new battery it spins the engine far faster than the old battery and fires immediately.

I don't know if you are still doing it the same way, but thought I'd comment on how nicely the battery box worked on my car.

Thanks, Tom

[michael everson]

Due to the fact that I am waiting on some air conditioning parts, I thought I would move on to another part of the project. I am doing the initial fit of the body. The main body is on and secure. I started fitting and drilling all the trunk aluminum. I find it easier to cut the rear aluminum in half. It makes it easier to install and easier to service the fuel filler area if needed. I mad a patch panel to mate them together.



With a little trimming, you can get the 3 link box flanges to be on the underside of the trunk. I know it will be covered with carpet, but it still looks much better.



here is a shot of the trunk latch mounted. I prefer to screw it in place instead of riveting. This way I can fit everything and remove it for paint. I used Riv-nuts for the threads.



Fuel filler has been moved to the outside of the body. One note. If you delete the fuel tank from FFR because you are going with the Boyd, you might want to reconsider. When they deleted the tank, I got nothing related to the fuel system. Not fuel filler, no fuel hose, no fuel filter etc. Might want to rethink that depending on the credit.



Some of the air conditioning hoses have been run. I am waiting on some more fittings from Vintage air. If you use the assortment of fittings that come with the kit, it makes it hard to run everything neatly. Most of the fittings are only about $4.00 each. I bought several more fittings that were bent at 45 degrees. Made if much neater to run the hoses. Especially under the dash.



Note the fuel lines. I left them long until I figure out where the FPR will be mounted. Want to get all the air and heater lines run first.

I will have some more updates this weekend.
Mike

[michael everson]

Its been a while since I have updated this build. I have been so busy with work and family that not too much got done.

I finally have the fuel system figured out. Just need to install one more fitting that arrived today.



The customer supplied wheels look really nice. I believe the are 19 inch in the front and 20 out back. The fronts look a little funny with the fenders. They don't share the same radius. I am hoping the body shop can make them look a little nicer.

These wheels are true Knockoffs.









I have the engine cover fitted. It may need a minor amount of clearance to get around one of the heater hoses. The cover really makes it look nice.



I finally got the stock Ford Air conditioning compressor installed. It needs a minor mod in order to clear the frame. Otherwise its a great fit. Now I just need to figure out the hose connections to this thing.
Much more to come this weekend.

[wallace18]

Its been a while since I have updated this build. I have been so busy with work and family that not too much got done.

I finally have the fuel system figured out. Just need to install one more fitting that arrived today.



The customer supplied wheels look really nice. I believe the are 19 inch in the front and 20 out back. The fronts look a little funny with the fenders. They don't share the same radius. I am hoping the body shop can make them look a little nicer.

These wheels are true Knockoffs.









I have the engine cover fitted. It may need a minor amount of clearance to get around one of the heater hoses. The cover really makes it look nice.



I finally got the stock Ford Air conditioning compressor installed. It needs a minor mod in order to clear the frame. Otherwise its a great fit. Now I just need to figure out the hose connections to this thing.
Much more to come this weekend.

Mike where do you get the brackets to install the A/C and alt?

[michael everson]

There are no brackets for the A\C It bolts directly to the block. The alternator bracket comes with the kit from FFR when you specify Coyote in the options.
Mike

[77233349975]

There are no brackets for the A\C It bolts directly to the block. The alternator bracket comes with the kit from FFR when you specify Coyote in the options.
Mike

I am at the compressor stage. I can find no info from f.f. or vintage air except the 2000$ bracket they sell . if you could , the part # for the compressor , belt and the tensioner would be a BIG help! and lots of pic to. I have ben watching this thread in hopes you would get to the ac part . I have the same engine in #490. thanks much !!

[michael everson]

The compressor is the stock ford part. I bought it from Fortes. The belt is also a ford part. There is no tensioner. The belt is called a "stretchy belt". It is forced in place. If this system works, it will be much cheaper than VAs front runner kit. I just need to figure out the compressor connections.
Mike

[77233349975]

THANKS ! for the info. this will get me way down the rood. thanks again !!!!! mike s.

[WIS89]

Mike-

I like the button head screws on the firewall. Just a very nice look. I am curious if you have ever done this to a MK IV, and if so, if you had any pictures.

I am thinking about doing button heads on my MK IV build, but would really like to see what it might look like first. I am also considering powder coating the heads, or polishing them depending on how I treat the firewall. I'd value your opinion on the powder coating/polishing idea.

I like following your '33 build. You are making some great progress! It is awesome seeing so many pictures and how it demonstrates the build progress so nicely. Well done!

I hope you keep the pictures going with the rest of your build. Thanks!

Regards,

Steve

[michael everson]

Here is some more update pictures. I spent the day working on the hood, side panels and doors.

The hood and side panels required quite a bit of trimming for a good fit One of the side panels was cut too short at the grille end bottom corner. It was short by 3\4 of an inch. Will need to add a piece to it.



You can see the gap in this pictures. No way to make that much up with adjustments.



Hers is the passenger door. Took lots of time to get it to this point. Its hinged and open and closes. Still needs handles, windows and final fit.

[michael everson]

I spent a good part of the weekend fitting the hard top and windshield. The windshield fit pretty well. No real issues.





The hard top is another story. It is standing up almost an inch in the back. Not sure why its like this. I will start fiddling with it and see if I can get it better.

[wallace18]

Wish I had an answer for the top being off that much. Mine was only about 1/8" off. Something is definetly not right there.

[esff32]

Michael,

The build is looking good, I love watching other people's build...i always seem to learn something new. I was wondering if you used the provided dust boot for the lower ball joints or bought aftermarket ones? I, like others, cannot get mine to fit over the shoulder of the ball joint. Any help would be great. Thanks, Evan

[michael everson]

Been a while since I posted on this. Getting a lot of little things done. Doors are finally fitted and done wit the exception of cutting the window slot. I will do that once the hard top is bolted down. The auto door poppers are installed and working fine. Power window mechanisms are in as well.
The hood hinge is finally installed and working. Just need to drill and install the firewall catches. Next goes in the waterfall and side panels. Once that is done its off to paint for all the cleanup and color. If they paint it off the chassis, it will come back for wiring while the body is at paint.



Shot of the wide rear tires

[michael everson]

Made some more progress today. The hood pin receivers are now installed and operational. I opted to make my own out of aluminum stock. They will be polished and clear powder coated once the car is complete.





Hood prop is clecoed in place.



This picture shows the first attempt at getting the waterfall in place. It fit really well. Just some minor trimming at the bottom of the door openings.

http://s151.photobucket.com/user/mic...4c2f0.jpg.html



Side panels are all fitted and bolted in.





One issue I did run into today was the lower nose cone. Once the side panels were in the cone no longer fit very well. I think it needs to be cut down the middle front to back and reglassed to make it narrower. Wondering if anyone else had had to do this. I don't see any other way to take up the excess radius to get it tighter to the grille.

[michael everson]

Here's a couple of pictures after its cleaned up a bit. Really starting to look like a car.