RM1Sepex Build Thread

[Erik W. Treves]

left one is about 9 3/4"

[RM1SepEx]

I have 6 inch threaded tube with hiems on each end and, yes just about 9 3/4... I guess I'm in the ballpark, just seemed like I was leaving less thread in the tube than I'd like to see.

[Erik W. Treves]

sounds about right then...

[RM1SepEx]

My next questions:

What does the "other" nipple on my Turbo expansion tank connect to? The manual shows a tube going down on page 274. The other one goes to the rear puke tank

I have a 3rd tube under the two fuel line connectors, can't read the blue masking tape anymore... what do I do with it?

I have a 1/2 OD tube coming off the intake manifold on the left side... connect to ? or just plug it...

Anyone have an easy, clean soln for a charcoal canister and location?

expansion tank.JPG

extra nipple.JPG

intake tube 2.JPG

Intake tube.JPG

[wallace18]

My next questions:

What does the "other" nipple on my Turbo expansion tank connect to? The manual shows a tube going down on page 274. The other one goes to the rear puke tank

I have a 3rd tube under the two fuel line connectors, can't read the blue masking tape anymore... what do I do with it

I have a 1/2 OD tube coming off the intake manifold on the left side... connect to ? or just plug it...

Anyone have an easy, clean soln for a charcoal canister and location?

expansion tank.JPG

extra nipple.JPG

intake tube 2.JPG

Intake tube.JPG

The 3rd line is for the evap system. I blocked mine off. I am using a junkyard cannister ( small) just to my vent line on the tank. The other nipple on the tank can go to a nipple you install in the top water outlet. This is a good idea if you want to have an easy way to bleed air out of the cooling system.Wayne showed me this tip. I threaded a 1/8" NPD nipple and connect it to the coolant tank.There are several lines you may need to plug on your intake due to lack of emission stuff, ect.

3392513 004.jpg

[fateo66]

My next questions:

What does the "other" nipple on my Turbo expansion tank connect to? The manual shows a tube going down on page 274. The other one goes to the rear puke tank

I have a 3rd tube under the two fuel line connectors, can't read the blue masking tape anymore... what do I do with it?

I have a 1/2 OD tube coming off the intake manifold on the left side... connect to ? or just plug it...

Anyone have an easy, clean soln for a charcoal canister and location?

expansion tank.JPG

This is the turbo's coolant return line (the feed comes from the head)

extra nipple.JPG

This is for the evap system. Typically a solenoid opens up to suck fumes out of the gas tank threw this line. Since the 818 is not designed like that I would cap it so that you are not sucking in fresh air when the solenoid activates.

intake tube 2.JPG

This is the brake booster vacuum port. If you do not plan on running the power brakes plug it

Intake tube.JPG

See above

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks for all the help! Just getting up from my afternoon nap, time to get back to it for a while...

I can't see/find anything on the head where I would connect a hose to the "extra" barb on the turbo coolant tank. The barb farthest to the rear is connected to the turbo coolant line, the middle one (that was broken off in the accident and I repaired with the brass one) I can't find a head connection to the right head area, the farthest forward comes off above the pressure cap and goes to the puke tank.

So where do I look on the right head? 2005 WRX

I'll cap off the other two, no power brakes and that behemoth of an evap system is long gone... :-)

[RM1SepEx]

The hose from the head goes to the turbo, from the turbo to the tank... so that isn't the issue.

Wallace 18 "The other nipple on the tank can go to a nipple you install in the top water outlet. This is a good idea if you want to have an easy way to bleed air out of the cooling system.Wayne showed me this tip. I threaded a 1/8" NPD nipple and connect it to the coolant tank"

I don't understand what you did... This tank is already the top of the system.

[wallace18]

The hose from the head goes to the turbo, from the turbo to the tank... so that isn't the issue.

Wallace 18 "The other nipple on the tank can go to a nipple you install in the top water outlet. This is a good idea if you want to have an easy way to bleed air out of the cooling system.Wayne showed me this tip. I threaded a 1/8" NPD nipple and connect it to the coolant tank"

I don't understand what you did... This tank is already the top of the system.

This is how Wayne explained it to me. On the WRX normal the radiator hose comes off the outlet and runs uphill to the radiator. This allows air to escape going up hill. In the kit you run the hose pointing downward to attach to the flex pipe going to the front of the car. This traps air in that area. There has been documented overheat problems because of this. Just put in the nipple run it to the extra one on the tank and Viola no more air trapped. It is so simple. FFR is possibly working on this fix as well. Don't quote me on that. I just wanted to pass on this tip to others as well. It is up to you to do it or not. JMO.

[RM1SepEx]

So this nipple had the hose that connected to the nipple on the right top of the radiator that I had to plug?

Could I just connect a hose to it with a valve so that I can use it to bleed the system? Can't you just do that from the cap on this turbo expansion tank?

I don't have a tank with an extra nipple to connect it to... You or Wayne have a photo???

[metalmaker12]

On my thread I installed a tee to bleed the system just the same if a one was paying attention

[RM1SepEx]

So you ran from that tee in the lower line up to the "extra" nipple? Your photo showed the tee but not where the vent line went...

[metalmaker12]

This is how i am doing it, and most others. "Tee is in upper line"
Turbo coolant tank rearward outlet to upper hose tee for easier burpage
Turbo coolant tank forward outlet to an overflow tank
Up front now
Radiator cap to another overflow tank
Radiator small passenger outlet-plugged

Don't take all my pics as bible , I had the lines up front both going to the tank, my dad ran them like that, not knowing the routing but the small outlet is plugged now

[Mechie3]

Tee is in upper line...


What is the upper line? The top coolant outlet from the motor?

[RM1SepEx]

check out his photo

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...1&d=1379987699

the hose from the upper engine radiator hose has a tee in it, apparently that hose connects to the barb on the turbo expansion tank, this allows you to burp the system as the routing tends to form air pockets

[Mechie3]

I see. One more part to make/buy...

[RM1SepEx]

I may try to try to burp mine w/o...
I'm a glutton for punishment, I did own a v6 Fiero (hard to burp), and currently own an old E30 BMW (hard to burp)

[metalmaker12]

Also, the vent on the tank can go to the smaller dia lower fuel vent line on the engine

[RM1SepEx]

you could drill and tap and install the nipple into the aluminum outlet...

[RM1SepEx]

Posted on another thread how to remove seat airbags, don't remember which thread...

rehash

unzip rear panel
pull out ends of the panel, it just flips under and clips into a plasticpiece on the seat
pull the airbag wire out between the seat pan and back carefully
rip tape holding wire in place
cut the two hog rings holding side panel tight
remove two 10 mm nuts holding bag assy to seat back
carefully work airbag assy out of it's foam pocket
foam is glued to the airbag assy, carefully peel it off
fill the area of the airbag with replacement foam. I bought cheap camping pad at WalMart and cut 3 layers to size
work it back into place
replace hogrings or just use a couple tie wraps to hold the side panel tight
zip it up and work the plastic clip back in place at the bottom of the seat back

Done, 2 seats, remove just under 5 lbs!


weight of each seat airbag: 2 lbs 4 oz as per my digital postal scale


Here is a shot of my organization of the ECU, cruise control unit, alarm horn and ballast resistor? As well as some other build status shots

ecu mnt.JPG

ecu mnt1.JPG

frnt puke.JPG

rear puke.JPG

shifter 1.JPG

shifter 2.JPG

[metalmaker12]

you could drill and tap and install the nipple into the aluminum outlet...

Yea you could, or do what I did, anything to help burp it.

[RM1SepEx]

Where did you find your "device" with the nipple in the hose connector? Is it aluminum? I also noticed that you ran your ebrake lines around the outside of the frame, I ran mine through the middle thinking it would work with less drag with the easier bends

[metalmaker12]

Yeah it is aluminum, I had it lying around from another build, but you can get them on ebay, speedway etc. My e brake would not work correctly unless I ran it around the frame to keep tension on the lines. I tried with less tension and got no real braking force

[RM1SepEx]

I've been procrastinating on my first start, trying to get some more mechanicals buttoned up.

I don't like their new 06-07 seat brackets, thought I could get another 1 inch of headroom...

so I welded in the corner that they had cut off from the left support to allow drilling another set of holes. Theoretically they could cut two sets for two seat heights and if the front holes are ovals it should even allow changing the seat angle by using the lower rear holes with the higher front holes as an example. doing this makes you fold your legs more allowing taller drivers to feel more comfortable.

seat rails.JPG

I have to remove the top hole on the rear of the rail that isn't attached to clear the seat tilt mechanism, but I've gained a full inch of headroom.

I'll forward this information to engineering, hopefully later builds will include more flexible seat rails.

[nkw8181]

Thanks for the extra headroom!

[RM1SepEx]

I cut off the top rear hole on the left driver's rail to clear the tilt mechanism and the seat sits fine with a full extra inch of headroom... A small portion of the seat is down below the rails but there is clearance with the 1 inch x braces in the seat area. next I'll try to tilt the seat pan and raise the front of the seat. I'm hoping with the front higher I can get my 3/4 in high sliders under the rails and allow my seat to slide a couple inches forward for the wife... If I can't do that... she will need a pad to push her forward to reach the pedals.

My sliders will fit and I think I can get her 2 inches of forward travel... With the sliders I think I can drop the seat even farther down on the rails. I wish that 1 inch tube going diagonally across the frame wasn't there. I was able to use the low back holes and higher front holes to tilt the seat pan. I had to use a file to extend the oval hole a small amt

[RM1SepEx]

So, I've been out of it for a while, bad drug reaction... been on big time antibiotics, finally up and around again, lost a week

Noticed that I have a damaged steering rack boot. Anyone got one hanging around?

Moved the 818 onto my lift so I can manipulate the height, hopefully it will be easier to debug my electrical problems... My starter doesn't engage... need to check the solenoid, spins but no flywheel engagement.

Someone mentioned last week that their fresh transaxle fill didn't take much oil. Mine is showing full at less than 3 quarts. I'm guessing that once I get her started and moving around it will take more oil.

I'm considering removing that angled 1 inch tube in front of the driver's seat so I can slide it farther forward for my wife... no reply from Factory Five on how much rigidity I would lose. Anyone else have that discussion yet?

[Erik W. Treves]

Mine was the same way... I went ahead and put the other .7 in it before the dyno session....hope you are on the mend!

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks Erik, I'm almost always on the hairy edge physically with my MS. Expecting rain here tonite, shooting pain all over, hate it when the weather changes!

you got some very nice dyno numbers!

It's taken longer than I would like to button up some of the mechanical stuff... so much is really individual preference. I've learned to take the manual's directions as more of a suggestion. :-)

[metalmaker12]

I am up to temp and driving it all around my hood, it's fun!!!I am charging my go pro as I type for a run to tape from cockpit.i also grabed a new charger for my laptop so maybe a tune soon. I have just about 3.25 quarts steady, in tranny to top off at like 3.5 maybe. 3.85 gallon coolant to top of at 4 gal at degas tank, koyo radiator, and two overflows to fill line. My dad is like 5'5 and we moved the kirkey all the way up and it was good for him, idk about him seeing over the wheel without a pillow though. I am 5'9 ish and I can just see over the dash etc.
Wayne was very helpful with some tips on burping the system, go Wayne thanks again man!! Erik's got dyno fever with great numbers and I am going to run a base map to clean things up a bit prob tommorow, dyno in a few weeks or sooner. I am going to start to button things up and get the interior going, and onto body work.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My starter doesn't engage... need to check the solenoid, spins but no flywheel engagement.

Hi Dan
most importantly take care of your health.

Your solenoid plunger is working, because it is closing the electrical contacts that spin the motor.
The problem is mechanical in the head of the starter.
I suspect the pivot lever or bendix mechanism is gummed up from sitting for a while.

Keep any question coming.
Bob

[metalmaker12]

yea Bob is correct, free it up with some pb blast or other agent to get it to swivel out to its full length. hopefully this works

[RM1SepEx]

The donor was only rolled and totaled 2 years ago! Been sitting a long time...

My next big "other" problem is getting through the damn FAFSA financial aid stuff etc... two kids in college next year... My son will be 5th yr at RIT in BIOMed ENG, (last yr!) my daughter just got accepted in pre med at Pitt. Just mom and me at home next year!

[RM1SepEx]

I took a photo of my new wheel centers for the stock 05 WRX wheels:

wheel center.JPG

[Mechie3]

Those are some sweet centers.

My starter had the same problem as yours. At first I was concerned the motor had seized, but before I got upset I took the starter off and started it in the air. It took about 10 starts for it to stop going "click click" and actually spin. Mine only sat for 1.5 years.

[RM1SepEx]

Centers: turned aluminum in a lathe, 3 setscrews to tighten to the hole from the back side, PC semi gloss black to match the wheels, laser etched by a friend with Logo courtesy Dave, the Mad Dog!

Starter: Mine will spin but won't engage flywheel, haven't been able to debug/exercise it yet...

I need to wade through the wiring, will be my most difficult piece of the build due to physical issues and the holes in my brain from MS. Such work is good for limiting my long term disability!

Still fighting with my latest medical issues, Dr appt again this PM, not much work while I can't walk or sit much...

[RM1SepEx]

Here is my "burp" fitting and tank connection. Note that my 1/4 thick aluminum bracket is much simpler than Craig's! I did powder coat it black tho...

expansion tank.JPG

tube fitting.JPG

I was able to reuse the stock tubing with its bends. I used a 1/4 in pipe fitting to 5/16 barbed brass fitting. Drill a 7/16 hole in the aluminum coolant tube and tap with pipe thread. The straight fitting works great and access is easy. My fitting on the plastic tank was broken too so I had to install the same fitting on the other end.

my tank bracket can be cut with a band saw and offsets the tank just enough to clear the tube with the cover.

[RM1SepEx]

I went to align the front of my car today... I pulled the rack bellows to find the center and started twisting the tie rod to get the wheels straight.

The right side has very few threads in the outer, the left side is almost fully in.

rack left.JPG

rack right.JPG

I feel that I need to cut and extend the right inner tie rod...

Anyone else having a problem?

I have the newer 05-07 rack

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I went to align the front of my car today... I pulled the rack bellows to find the center and started twisting the tie rod to get the wheels straight.

The right side has very few threads in the outer, the left side is almost fully in.

rack left.JPG

rack right.JPG

I feel that I need to cut and extend the right inner tie rod...

Anyone else having a problem?

I have the newer 05-07 rack

Dan,
Take a look at my post 51
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...d-Thread/page2

[Mechie3]

I think mine is aligned the same as it came off the WRX. Is yours a wagon? If so, Bob's issue is likely the sames as yours.