RM1Sepex Build Thread

[RM1SepEx]

You mean than thin little one? No idea what it is for ask Chris, Erik or Wayne as they are all ahead of me... Ask a FFR tech perhaps? That would make sense to avoid a fueling explosion, do they do that on their other cars???

[wallace18]

The small strap is for the filler cap. It grounds it to the frame for fill ups. It is part of all FFR kits .

[RM1SepEx]

thanks, nothing in the build manual, leaving questions for us newbies!

[VD2021]

The small strap is for the filler cap. It grounds it to the frame for fill ups. It is part of all FFR kits .

Except GTMs.

.....Haven't heard of any issues....now wondering if I should add a set.

[wallace18]

Except GTMs.

.....Haven't heard of any issues....now wondering if I should add a set.

I am sure it could not hurt.

[longislandwrx]

The steel fill tube then should probably be grounded too then, just tuck another braid under one of the rubber hoses.

[RM1SepEx]

I don't think so. The issue is a spark upon filling, just like how you don't fill the plastic fuel container when it sits on your truck's bed. You get a gnd from the nozzle to the fuel cap assembly, the hose doesn't matter.

[longislandwrx]

Just looked at how narrow the fill hole was, I was thinking you could miss the cap but that looks difficult considering the diameter.

[RM1SepEx]

So, rather than a quick jump in and go kart I want to button stuff up better.

I mounted the fusebox just over the fuel tank behind the rear firewall. I want to add a thin piece of .030 aluminum as a rear cover to the engine compartment and make several pieces, making removal of some of them easy by using riv nuts. Thoughts?

fuse 1.JPG

fuse 2.JPG

I'm also concerned with the slots that they leave in the cockpit in front of the rear firewall. What are people doing to seal off the interior?

rear firewall slots.JPG

[AZPete]

Dan, I'm working on the same panels because it will be a good place to hide wiring and also clean up the engine compartment. Now the top panel for the rear of the rear firewall is out being bent 90 degrees at the bottom so I can install it with rivnuts from the gas tank side, hence be able to remove it. The top of that panel will have rivnuts on the engine side - easily reached. I'm using .040 aluminum (16 x 50 finished size) but it's a large span with no rivets into the frame in the middle so I'm worried about flexing and noise so I plan on filling the space with a stiff foam to prevent vibration. I'll post photos when I've got it powder coated and installed.

Re the gaps below the gas tank, I'm guessing that it's good to have some place for gas to drain out in case there's a tank leak. A pool of gas could make for a memorable day.

[RM1SepEx]

Since my engine is already installed I'm going to use smaller, separate pieces for the engine compartment wall. I need to make sure that fuse box access is available, perhaps a smaller panel/cover?

Those slots are open to the interior of the car! road noise water etc...

[RM1SepEx]

I removed the angled bar in front of the driver's seat, sliders will be in place soon.

So next issue:

Hooked up my throttle, the pedal is mounted as described in the manual... I did shorten the pedal rod to move it off the floor and bent it to be closer to the distance from the firewall to that of the clutch and brake

1 the ball won't fit through the 1/4 hole, needs to get to about 5/16
2 the split double nut is a horror story/nightmare to try to use in practice
3 I added a fender washer with a slit in it to reinforce the aluminum firewall panel
4 the ball is too small for the pedal's hole too, had to add another washer with a slit in it. RTV to hold it in place perhaps?
5 the firewall flexes all over the place when you depress the throttle
6 even with all of the slack taken out of the cable, it can't return to idle

What did other's do????

Shifter next

[wallace18]

I removed the angled bar in front of the driver's seat, sliders will be in place soon.

So next issue:

Hooked up my throttle, the pedal is mounted as described in the manual... I did shorten the pedal rod to move it off the floor and bent it to be closer to the distance from the firewall to that of the clutch and brake

1 the ball won't fit through the 1/4 hole, needs to get to about 5/16
2 the split double nut is a horror story/nightmare to try to use in practice
3 I added a fender washer with a slit in it to reinforce the aluminum firewall panel
4 the ball is too small for the pedal's hole too, had to add another washer with a slit in it. RTV to hold it in place perhaps?
5 the firewall flexes all over the place when you depress the throttle
6 even with all of the slack taken out of the cable, it can't return to idle

What did other's do????

Shifter next

Dan look at my thread what I did with the throttle cable.

[metalmaker12]

I will have to take a video this weekend to show you what I have done, but I got 900- 1000 rpm idle. I have a dirty iac and need to clean it up and put a new gasket, but once warm is idling perfect.

[RM1SepEx]

Mine will idle fine w/o hooking up the throttle cable, the problem is the throttle cable doesn't have enough cable outside of the sheathing for the distance from the firewall to the pedal and the intake around the throttle cam on the other end.

The pedal assembly is too flimsy too...

[metalmaker12]

The cable has just enough length

[RM1SepEx]

Tom, post 97?

Where did you mount the top of the pedal bracket? I see that both of the lower holes go through the firewall vs only the bottom one

[RM1SepEx]

The cable has just enough length

is the top of your pedal assy on the tube as shown in the maual? Mine is and from the firewall to the pedal is too far. I think Tom bolted his directly to the firewall

[wallace18]

is the top of your pedal assy on the tube as shown in the maual? Mine is and from the firewall to the pedal is too far. I think Tom bolted his directly to the firewall

You are correct. This gave me plenty of cable length. IMO the FFR pedal brkt is junk. I did not use it. There is no real reason to use it IMO. I have no firewall flex and plenty of cable.

[RM1SepEx]

I'll be warming up the garage and playing with mine this morning. Did you use the weird split double nut on the cable ferule?

Works much better w/o the bracket, too bad I modified my pedal position with the bracket... now I need to readjust the position.

just about done working on the shifter now... I think I want it 3 inches shorter!

[RM1SepEx]

parking brake cable stay

manual says 5/16 button heads, I didn't get any.... Did everyone just use std bolts?

[wallace18]

parking brake cable stay

manual says 5/16 button heads, I didn't get any.... Did everyone just use std bolts?

I have a stock of S/S hardware I use. I don't think it matters too much what you use there. I am going with the Lokar PB the subie one is not working out so good. IMO. The split nut was weird to use for sure.

[Wayne Presley]

I did not use the bracket on mine or the GRM car. I mounted it directly on the firewall and used the snap in bracket on the original cable.

[RM1SepEx]

Back from Vegas Wayne? sounded like an awesome trip, I'm sure you wowed them with your car. Can't wait to see the HP and Torque #s

[metalmaker12]

Dan, I used the FFR supplied bracket, reinforced it and ran the cable with just enough room for the system to idle just right. I will take a short video to show you my setup. It works good and drives great, no need to worry.

[RM1SepEx]

Chris, I just set it up w/o the bracket, I didn't like the flexibility of their bracket and since the cable was too short...

I HATE the stock shifter... too much flex/slop in the plastic, too high etc... I'll start by cutting it down God only knows where I'll end up.

What did you use for seat bolts? Did you use hardware from the kit? I need to get creative as I need low profile both on the top for my sliders and on the bottom for ground clearance.

[VD2021]

I am sure it could not hurt.

Noted. It's now on my to-do list.

[metalmaker12]

I put in grade 8 3/8 bolts with washers and locknuts in from the bottom. I went and just made you a video for the cable.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Chris, I just set it up w/o the bracket, I didn't like the flexibility of their bracket and since the cable was too short...

I HATE the stock shifter... too much flex/slop in the plastic, too high etc... I'll start by cutting it down God only knows where I'll end up.

What did you use for seat bolts? Did you use hardware from the kit? I need to get creative as I need low profile both on the top for my sliders and on the bottom for ground clearance.

To mount my seat right to the floor used these two parts"

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90596a400/=pb7mo8


http://www.mcmaster.com/#91355a087/=pb7nc4

I used 25/64 bit in frame cross rails and 5/16 drill in seats. I did not weld the nut in at this point. The flange on the nut is in the bottom of the car.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

I already put my aluminum under the seat but I might be able to use those into the slider and down into the seat support tubes...

[C.Plavan]

Have any pictures of the removed angled bar- I'm getting ready to cut mine out too. Did you leave anything, or grind it down?

[RM1SepEx]

cut and ground. I'm putting in an interior so it will be covered by fatmat, then a thin foam and vinyl

[metalmaker12]

Kinda late or I missed it, One question, does that bar have structural importance

[C.Plavan]

Kinda late or I missed it, One question, does that bar have structural importance

Being that I am building a 818R- I'm not worried about it because of all the additional bars everywhere. Someone did say a FFR rep said you could cut them. Worst case, just weld up a different mount/bar that does not interfere with the seat adjustment.

[RM1SepEx]

if you look at it that bar should stiffen up the "open box" of the passenger compartment. The center tunnel area adds no stiffness though it could! I asked for numbers, didn't happen, best to keep the wife of 30 years (Jan of this year) happy and comfortable

[metalmaker12]

if you look at it that bar should stiffen up the "open box" of the passenger compartment. The center tunnel area adds no stiffness though it could! I asked for numbers, didn't happen, best to keep the wife of 30 years (Jan of this year) happy and comfortable

Happy wife=happy life

[RM1SepEx]

or the more common statement

Mama's not happy, no one's happy! :-)

[RM1SepEx]

So... seat sliders in, just need to bolt them down!

Anyone else trying to use the stock seat belts? The stock Subaru belt brackets don't work well with the space available. The belts have a hard time sliding back in to the reels, the seat is up against the side of the car...

Thoughts? Ideas?

[Canadian818]

So... seat sliders in, just need to bolt them down!

Anyone else trying to use the stock seat belts? The stock Subaru belt brackets don't work well with the space available. The belts have a hard time sliding back in to the reels, the seat is up against the side of the car...

Thoughts? Ideas?

Just finished catching up on your build thread. I expect my build thread to be much like yours, filled with questions. Thanks for sharing.

I expect everyone is using the stock subaru belts for now, except for the "R" builders since there's no harness bar yet. I'd imagine it'll be available soon since it was on the green sema car.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Dan
My seat belt came from the back of a wagon donor.
They release when straight up.
During my glider test they are mounted in the wagon seat belt mounts.
FFR designed it to be on the inside of the fire wall. My seat hits the spool in that position.
I mounted the spool on the engine side of the fire wall.
Had to use left side belt on right side and vice versa, but no issues there.
I wish I had a better picture for you, but this is it. My son in my car. his is at the powder coaters.
I'm using kirkey seat, so I will end up with a 5 point.