RM1Sepex Build Thread

[CptTripps]

I was planning on plasti-dipping the whole thing for "year one" and then working on the body in earnest when the snow falls.

Sounds like that's not even an option if the body is that far off to begin with.

[RM1SepEx]

as you work on fitting the body the slight twists and turns "assist" you in identifying voids under the gel coat, they just pop and piss you off! :-( I need to use a high intgensity light on mine, looking for defects. Then the issue is how to repair them while leaving a "no paint" finish... I have some ideas but have not developed a technique.

next are the areas where for whatever reason the mold wasn't filled and the panel just stops in some misshapen manner. Mine has these at the edges of the nose where it meets the fenders and the rear fenders where they meet the rear clip. The area needs to be roughed up, built up with fiberglass matt (my first thought) to a level just below finish and then covered with gel coat and sanded to finish dimensions. I'm thinking that I can build up supports for the fiberglass matt using aluminum and wax paper as a simple release agent.

The next area is the ends of the hood, mine is broken on one end (they wrapped it and inserted it in a cardboard tube, so they knew it was broken when they packed it!) I think that with such a thin area I'll need to drill a hole and insert a hardwood peg as a base for the fiberglass to make it extra strong. Again it needs to be built up just below the desired shape and gel coated.

Lastly the upper rear corners of the fenders are not even close to the same shape. I'm not sure what I can do there, I want to see how the doors line up as Aloha818 indicated he had to add to the front edge of the door! If I need to do that I'll take a trip to FFR and see what I can do..

Back to wiring up my steering column and cruise control. I'll document it here soon, I've expanded on what AZPete has done with his.

[RM1SepEx]

Cruise Control install update:

P1110981.JPG P1110989.JPG P1110990.JPG P1110991.JPG

P1110992.JPG P1110993.JPG P1110994.JPG

I attached the cruise control stalk above the key using one of the control mounts to the column and another screw on the other side of the cruise control stalk. The left lower mounting tab was removed for clearance.

Extensive removal of the plastic cover is required for clearance. I'll be making an extended cover to reach the dash as the FFR design leaves a couple inches of space to the dash and gauge pod

The wiring is pretty easy. Look up the Subaru wiring diagram for your year (thanks fate66!) you are replacing the clockspring (steering roll connector) by making the cruise stalk not rotate with the wheel. The solitary black wire from the cruise stalk is the horn. The NRG adapter has a brass ring in the back to provide a rotary contact surface. I'm using an old feeler gage for my contact. It is bolted through the black plastic remains of the control assy where the clock spring used to sit. The horn connection to the black wire is connected underneath. The feeler gage is bent to provide some surface contact force.

The other cruise control stalk wires are connected as the wiring diagram shows, in my case connector ST2 (flat connection to clockspring) and B68 (black plug to harness, other end is the other side of the clockspring, ST1)

B68 ST2
1 5
2 3
3 4
4 1
5 2

(Thanks AZPete!)

you can see that I now have a nice clean cruise location, easy to see and operate!

Blinker cancelling (again thanks AZPete) you need to attach the plastic cylinder to the NRG adapter. The diameter of the plastic piece is about .050 too large. You need to shim it somehow and attach it to the adapter. IMPORTANT: The cylinder needs to be oriented properly for it to cancel the signals rapidly. Looking at it from the driver's seat the extended portion of the cylinder must be to the left, centered as much as possible. I used a single screw to hold it in place. I used brass shim stock to shim the cylinder, anything would work, AZPete used aluminum tape I think.

Now questions, I need to extend my steering wheel closer to me, the controls are too close to my flat 007R wheel. I'm looking for how thick the two NRG quick release adapters are. I could make a custom spacer, I would do an inch to be comfortable.

Anyone out there can measure the thickness, I don't see it specified on any websites!

[Frank818]

Dan, about the NRG and s/w, I have the hub SRK-100H and quick release SRK-280NB and they are supposed to be the same length as the OEM s/w. If that is the measurement you need, let me know.

[RM1SepEx]

Frank

They have multiple quick releases, 3 versions of the regular one and a "thin" one, your's is version 2.8 apparently

Yes I need that measurement

[Frank818]

5 versions of the regular one, 1.0, 2.0, 2.5, 2.8 and 3.0. Yes it's the 2.8 I got.

I'll take a pic of the measure. They are not assembled yet but I guess measuring each and adding up should give the total length.

[RM1SepEx]

just put he quick release together, I need that thickness

5 versions, all still avail, holy S**** batman!

[ehansen007]

How did the front hood hinge system work out? I'm getting ready for that mod too.

[AZPete]

Dan, nice work on the cruise control. I'm amused that you are looking for an adapter to move your steering wheel further from the stalks because when I had the same problem a smart builder in Freeport, ME (sound familiar?) told me to get a 6x6 block of polyethylene from McMaster-Carr, drill it, and turn it to the diameter to fit. I got it, turned it, and it works perfectly! Do you remember your own suggestion?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...heel-installed

[RM1SepEx]

Pete, yes I do remember... I'm looking for what my options are before I commit to a strategy... how thick did you make your's?

the hood worked out OK, I ended up using a 1 inch long bushing and bolt on each side. I used a threaded rod to make sure that both sides were lined up to avoid binding. The hood is so damn flimsy tho... It needs some stiffening.

My next problem is I want wipers but I don't want to cut my hood. I still haven't seen good photos of what FFR did... I might just do it on my own. I have FFR's new hood support but it is too low... I think I'll put one in the center of the hood, adjustable. The hood fits better when it has arc in the center. I'm thinking that some sort of aluminum support ribs would help the hood. Right now I would need to hold it up with supports on both sides. It will need a tether to avoid getting caught by the wind and flipping too far/getting damaged

[Mechie3]

Hood support from FFR? Is this a new piece?

[RM1SepEx]

a piece of aluminum, covers hole for master cyl, has a piece of rubber on the top... they sent me one...

P1110995.JPG

[Jaime]

Any hope of getting the factory steering roll connector to fit in the adapter body? I would love to mount the cruise control switch in the extension instead of on the column.

[RM1SepEx]

Not the one I bought... it only provides for the horn

[carbon fiber]

as you work on fitting the body the slight twists and turns "assist" you in identifying voids under the gel coat, they just pop and piss you off! :-( I need to use a high intgensity light on mine, looking for defects. Then the issue is how to repair them while leaving a "no paint" finish... I have some ideas but have not developed a technique.

next are the areas where for whatever reason the mold wasn't filled and the panel just stops in some misshapen manner. Mine has these at the edges of the nose where it meets the fenders and the rear fenders where they meet the rear clip. The area needs to be roughed up, built up with fiberglass matt (my first thought) to a level just below finish and then covered with gel coat and sanded to finish dimensions. I'm thinking that I can build up supports for the fiberglass matt using aluminum and wax paper as a simple release agent.

818 BUILDERS - BEAT EVERY INCH OF THE BODY WITH A STIFF SHORT BRISTLED WIRE BRUSH IF YOU WANT TO FIND ALL THE VOIDS. You can use the light method too but both methods together is better. You can use cotton "flox" (ground cotton) to mix with the resin to fill the voids. It's available from composite supply companies. mix some VINYL ESTER OR POLY resin, and mix in a little flox at the time until you get a "wet" paste. Too dry and it wont bond inside the void. Tape around the void to keep from getting it on the good areas. As far as the no paint thing, forget it. You'll have an easier time prepping and painting it yourself than trying to fix all the voids to visually acceptable levels. Also guys, be careful putting these panels into too much bind with these supports, it could cause spider web cracks in the gelcoat. Maybe not at first, but after some miles they can pop up. Fiberglass should sit properly without being forced very much to avoid spider web cracks.

[Jaime]

Sure, but is it possible to remove their clockspring and fit the Subaru clockspring in its place?

[RM1SepEx]

Sure, but is it possible to remove their clockspring and fit the Subaru clockspring in its place?

NOPE, they don't use a clock spring, they use a rotating rear surface and a single spring loaded contact. Look at the last photo in my post above #723 that entire rear surface is a single contact hooked to the horn wire coming out the other side. If you short this to the steering shaft or the chassis the horn beeps

[Frank818]

just put he quick release together, I need that thickness

I hope that helps.

2014-06-26 16.46.50.jpg

[K3LAG]

Sure, but is it possible to remove their clockspring and fit the Subaru clockspring in its place?

The Works Bell hub will probably let you do what you want, but it is a good bit more expensive. Figuring out how to mount the switch on the hub will be the challenge though. It would have to be mounted to the hub behind the quick disconnect as the quick disconnect doesn't have anyway to pass the connections through. It's probably more trouble than it's worth, but then again so is a lot of other things we do on these cars.

Larry

[Jaime]

I was looking into that. I would really like to find a low-profile hub that fits over the stock clockspring. Then, I could machine my own spacer and put mounting points on it for the cruise switch.

[K3LAG]

I was looking into that. I would really like to find a low-profile hub that fits over the stock clockspring. Then, I could machine my own spacer and put mounting points on it for the cruise switch.

The Works Bell hub does fit over the stock clock spring. Look at the pictures in my build thread. We might want to move this discussion to the Suspension, Steering and Brakes forum so as not to clog up Dan's build thread.

Larry

[RM1SepEx]

Trunk hinges interfere with the engine cover, both sides! you can see in the photo where my nice new black paint has been worn off the silver hinges when adjusting the hinges. It holds up the trunk and engine cover on my left side.

So to those ahead of me did you grind the trunk hinge stops off? They hit the engine cover on both sides and bind if the engine cover is held down. In my case the left side appears to be quite a bit higher than the right...

P1110997.JPG P1110998.JPG

BTW a closer look at the manual shows the stop tab ground off... Why do I have a big problem only on one side????

[RM1SepEx]

Next question, doors:

manual states that you use Subaru screws to mount latch mechanism, you can't the M6 x1mm x 20mm? screws are too short, another place says use supplied screws, I didn't get any... so how long did you get/buy, I think 35 MM would do it

next, did you use the front door latches or back door latches, manual doesn't say

did anyone keep their power door lock mechanisms?

did anyone eliminate the aluminum plate on the outside of the door skin at the latch, or countersink it, the screws will stick out quite a bit with those small holes

Thanks in advance

[Mechie3]

I countersunk and bought grade 10 equivalent metric flatheads. Forget the metric designation. I can look for the bag and part number later. I kept the power lock but stupidly cut the pigtail off the harness.

[RM1SepEx]

front or rear latch mechanism

did you keep the outer plates?

what about your trunk hinges???

[Mechie3]

Kept the plates. I countersunk them. Don't remember which mechie3. I matched the colors of the plastic pieces. Didn't do trunk yet.

[RM1SepEx]

I ground off the tabs, fitment just keeps getting better, I think forcing them into position them having them sit in place really helps. They distort quite a bit out of the mold, they are damn thin.

I need to add a brace like Chris and Wayne did to pull in the rear clip to get a more even gap, hoping to integrate it with an aluminum trunk.

none of my latch mechanisms match the ones in the manual... still not sure which are correct or what rods to use.

Hopefully ACE will have the screws tomorrow, metric assortment can be slim, worst case another McMaster order!

Frustrating how many trips and orders I've had to make for an all inclusive, every bolt included kit!

BTW, I've decided to make a targa hoop over the roll bar to move out the sides and facilitate a much simpler top assembly. It needs to fit in the trunk and be able to be setup in a couple minutes. I also want wing windows attached to the doors, makes a huge difference in cockpit air buffeting

[Aloha818]

I ground off the tabs, fitment just keeps getting better, I think forcing them into position them having them sit in place really helps. They distort quite a bit out of the mold, they are damn thin.

I need to add a brace like Chris and Wayne did to pull in the rear clip to get a more even gap, hoping to integrate it with an aluminum trunk.

none of my latch mechanisms match the ones in the manual... still not sure which are correct or what rods to use.

Hopefully ACE will have the screws tomorrow, metric assortment can be slim, worst case another McMaster order!

Frustrating how many trips and orders I've had to make for an all inclusive, every bolt included kit!

BTW, I've decided to make a targa hoop over the roll bar to move out the sides and facilitate a much simpler top assembly. It needs to fit in the trunk and be able to be setup in a couple minutes. I also want wing windows attached to the doors, makes a huge difference in cockpit air buffeting

I had followed the manual on the trunk hinges without issue, I'll look again to see if I have an issue. On my doors I bought new screws, countersunk, did not use the FFR aluminum cover plates, and used the latches and catches from the front doors of the donor.

When I get to the trunk aluminum (custom) I will also use part of the structure to pull in/strengthen the top middle of the rear bumper.

Looks like your still moving forward!

[RM1SepEx]

I ground the hinges so that they are flat across the level of the rivet that makes up the hinge pivot. You need to do this in both the down and up position. This leaves me 1/8 clearance from the engine cover, no interference to rub. I rtouched up my black chassis paint job.

I also mounted my first door frame, I used a layer of fiberglass cut from my body and a paint stick on the bottom and a paint stick, two aluminum latch plates and a layer of fiberglass (.375) in the latch area. This will put my striker in the correct location for final door fitting. I used the hinge door stop as described, the door opening is only about 18 inches... is that correct?

[RM1SepEx]

doors are a PITA

I spaced up my doors, mounted everything up, drivers door hinge stop works, pass door opens WIDE door stop doesn't contact the hinge.

My door frames are all the way forward no way that you can mount the latch to the body and hold any sort of thin door gaps, they stick out more than my 1/8 gap, I can shut the door just barely and there isn't a door skin sandwiched in!

So I obviously need to mount them higher... looking at the latch position in the manual the steel support for the top front of the door and mirror brace would hit the windshield! They are 1/2 inch higher than mine

UGH

can someone do some open and closed door photos of a completed car? Has anyone written up a door hanging instruction guide that can actually work?

[RM1SepEx]

I think I've got it...

mount up the doors loose enough to move around with a rubber mallet. Loosely bolt in the striker brackets, position the strikers as per the manual page 381 plate about an inch in and the lower edge right at the top of the aluminum cover plate for the side panels/cockpit.

Once those are bolted through the bracket tighten them up. Install the Subaru latches to the doors, I bought new SS flathead 6mm x 1 mm screws. It depends if you use the front or rear latch assy when you buy screws. I bought 30MM long screws, they work for the back latches, not the fronts. The fronts need shorter screws to avoid interference with the mechanism. The manual shows the front latches, one of mine was damaged in the accident, the other doesn't work reliably so I used the rears... I even have child locks...

I've not finalized the position of any of my body panels yet. I've been using gravity to "work" the panels into shape over time. You can see how they are fitting now after about a month of slight tension using clecos and 1 gallon weights.

Now you can take the door and shove it up and forward while latched to the striker plate. you need to do this to have enough space for the striker, door and latch plate. tighten it up and viola, one door frame in the correct position. I'm going to pin them with 1/8 roll pins to make it easier to align later, everything has slotted holes

Now to add a support for the hood in the center across the 1 inch frame tube. The FFR aluminum piece with rubber on the top is too low. I think that with the proper support we can get a nice arc in the hood.

As shown earlier in my thread I'm not using hood pins on the engine cover. I've made 2 inch aluminum brackets to hold the front with either a bolt of Dzus from the inside. The left side of the engine cover still needs some "tweaking" constant light force from 8 lb weights (1 gallon of water = 8.34) God only knows exactly what each weighs, I have a variety of liquids in those containers!.

The rear of the enine cover will be held down on each side by a bolt or Dzus again... I've made 3 inch long and two inch wide, 1/4 in thick aluminum tabs to bolt to the edge of the side panels over the rear wheels. Again to avoid those ugly yet race functional hood pins.

You can see my hinged hood, I need to stiffen it I think...

There is no way to hold the 1/8 door gap at the rear w/o insetting the striker plates in the fenders, did everyone do that???

[ehansen007]

As for picture six, it's always a good thing to take extra fluids on long trips .

[RM1SepEx]

two 5 qt containers of oil, 2 gallons of pre mixed anti freeze and a gallon of washer fluid...

[metalmaker12]

Finally !!!!!! Lol j/k looks good man

[RM1SepEx]

I'm old, disabled and slow... my kid is graduating HS, as much work as your new baby!

Chris, did you set your door strikers into the fiberglass fender?

[Frank818]

Yeah you are now 1 step away from registrations!

Those flat head screws you are talking about, are they the same as the ones we might need to put at the bottom front of the doors? Ref to that red FFR prototype which had scratched the sills.

[RM1SepEx]

Frank, I haven't bolted on the door skin, I have 1/8 clearance so a flathead screw should work best. I won't use a metric screw there too $$$ I'll buy a package of stainless screws like these.... http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=so1s3p

Product Detail
Type 316 Stainless Steel Flat-Head Socket Cap Screw, 1/4"-20 Thread, 1" Long
Packs of 10
In stock

[wallace18]

Dan here are some pics that you asked for in your PM. You can see the door gap. Not 1/8" for sure. But it is even all around. I mounted the latch inside the door skin as documented by Wayne and the Grassroots videos. Then you can use small hardware to the skin. My striker is right on the body. The doors open and close fine. I had to tweak the door stops as well as trim the fender edge some.

IMG_0434.JPGIMG_0435.JPGIMG_0436.JPG

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks Tom!

so you relieved the door and used rivets to hold the door skin to the frame instead of the latch mechanism screws... you really mounted your strikers towards the inside of the car compared to the GRM and FFR info

Stupid me, watched those GRM videos a while back, should have reviewed them

did you add some sort of rubber strip to deflect and cushion the door when it is closed? I would expect that would make it easier to adjust the striker position and minimize rattles

[wallace18]

Thanks Tom!

so you relieved the door and used rivets to hold the door skin to the frame instead of the latch mechanism screws... you really mounted your strikers towards the inside of the car compared to the GRM and FFR info

Stupid me, watched those GRM videos a while back, should have reviewed them

did you add some sort of rubber strip to deflect and cushion the door when it is closed? I would expect that would make it easier to adjust the striker position and minimize rattles

No I did not use any rubber.