Midwest Classic Insurance

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Page 3 of 34 FirstFirst 1234513 ... LastLast
Results 81 to 120 of 1358

Thread: RM1Sepex Build Thread

  1. #81
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    Wayne and Erik put the bushing above the bracket... That modifies the suspension geometry. You can do that if you use a spacer under the other leg, it is about 1/4 thick. If you don't use a spacer when you tighten it you will distort the aluminum bushing housing, not a good thing to do to aluminum, when aluminum fails it cracks, a dangerous condition IMHO and Tony's as well.

    They did a bunch of work to develop a high performance design, I'll make mine correct. Only the early cars will have the issue, I'm not aware of what chassis number will start getting the modified bracket, mine is #17

  2. #82
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Huntsville, Al
    Posts
    2,119
    Post Thanks / Like
    I measured out the change in geometry when I mounted the bracket on top (with spacers) and emailed the difference to Jim...end result was it was in the noise...road test will verify...good catch and I am glad they are fixing it.
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

  3. #83
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    I didn't want to dig out my old books and figure it out... 1/4 in across the 14 inches or so between the pivots isn't very much. I just figured that it should work as designed and poked and measured, discussed with a friend etc... our first soln was spacers and I even have a very nicely machined set in aluminum... LOL

    I was more concerned with someone with the shorter wagon arms... the bushings can't reach those other holes if placed on top

  4. #84
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Huntsville, Al
    Posts
    2,119
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yeah 10-4.. Good call.
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

  5. #85
    Senior Member Stickshift84's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    127
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well, I just swapped the ends on my control arms (wagon/steel) and they do work. I had to trim a little of the upper bracket on the frame to get them in but they fit and will be located correctly to the manual. Lower on top of bracket and upper under bracket.

  6. #86
    Mechie3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    5,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    You guys are talking about trimming the piece of steel bent under the mounting tab on the frame? I just tried putting the passenger side in as described (top is under, bottom is over). The bolt hole doesn't line up like RM1 noted on the bottom hole.

    Stickshift: When you swapped them, is the leg with the bump on the bottom like the manual first describes to swap them?

    What nuts are you using to bolt this together? I measured the bolts to be M14 x 1.5, but don't see that on the hardware list. Is there a different nut that came with the donor?
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  7. #87
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Exeter R.I
    Posts
    2,834
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    Mechie I used m14 Subaru bolts and nuts, and I have ordered two more. As of right now I put 1/4''spacer under the inner leg, but I will mod the frame gussets to accommodate the bushing to fit under and over like recommend, also I am going to get some high grade chassis paint for touch ups.

    Btw, my headers only cleared the drivers side engine mount by a tenth and I had to finagle them in to fit. I am going to trim that back a bit to ensure clearance under load. See Dan you have brought it back out in me!! Lol
    Last edited by metalmaker12; 08-07-2013 at 05:56 AM.

  8. #88
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    607
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    You guys are talking about trimming the piece of steel bent under the mounting tab on the frame? I just tried putting the passenger side in as described (top is under, bottom is over). The bolt hole doesn't line up like RM1 noted on the bottom hole.

    Stickshift: When you swapped them, is the leg with the bump on the bottom like the manual first describes to swap them?

    What nuts are you using to bolt this together? I measured the bolts to be M14 x 1.5, but don't see that on the hardware list. Is there a different nut that came with the donor?
    Same. I'm going to have to trim the tab and re-drill some holes. Not sure if I want to drill into the frame brackets, or just widen out the bushing holes. Probably the latter.

  9. #89
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mechie

    see the pictures, post 73

    bushing bump on bottom
    yes remove the vertical tab around 1/2 inch should do it on the left
    factory bolts

    Dan

  10. #90
    PLATNUM Supporting Member
    wallace18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Trenton, Florida
    Posts
    5,385
    Post Thanks / Like
    Could you post a picture of what it looks like after you fix the control arm problem? Thanks.

  11. #91
    Mechie3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    5,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    factory bolts

    Dan

    I'm using factory bolts, but the OEM setup screws into threaded holes on the car so I don't have nuts to go with my bolts and wasn't sure what nut you were using with the bolt.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  12. #92
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    607
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    I'm using factory bolts, but the OEM setup screws into threaded holes on the car so I don't have nuts to go with my bolts and wasn't sure what nut you were using with the bolt.
    I'm going to take a bolt to Lowe's and find a nut for it.

  13. #93
    Mechie3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    5,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Ok, thanks. Was trying to figure out if I was missing something (physically or mentally). lol.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  14. #94
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    Bolts and nuts: I didn't pair mine up when removed... I used a bucket and reconditioned everything. So I'll need the nuts later! :-)
    Control arm issue. I just fit both of mine...

    Right side had to adjust the hole location about 3/8 inch towards the outside of the car, see sharpie markup on bushing

    on the left side once I removed the vertical section about 1/2 and applied some Hyd force I was able to get my busing in place. The hole movement does not allow modifying the bushing. It will be too close to the side edge of the bushing. I need to dig out a die grinder and modify the steel mounting hole.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #95
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    Finished!

    I ended up using my small air powered cut off tool (3 inch) and my air die grinder with one of those nasty tips like you use to port an engine

    I just need to get a couple of replacement bolts... and I can button up the front suspension

    I've included a shot of my powder coated front firewall.

    You need to grind the LCA stud that goes through that left LCA bushing to clear the firewall. I took it back to the nut using a drum sander

    DSCF0057.JPG DSCF0058.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by RM1SepEx; 08-07-2013 at 05:15 PM. Reason: added addl photo

  16. #96
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Clovis, Ca
    Posts
    2,225
    Post Thanks / Like
    I wonder which chassis #'s will start having the fix.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  17. #97
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    I'm using factory bolts, but the OEM setup screws into threaded holes on the car so I don't have nuts to go with my bolts and wasn't sure what nut you were using with the bolt.
    Found the place I stole them from, the rear strut bolts, time to get some nuts! :-)

  18. #98
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Clovis, Ca
    Posts
    2,225
    Post Thanks / Like
    Not trying to be an A$$, but did you see that your front control arm bolts are in different spots in picture 3 of 5? Just looking out for ya buddy!
    Last edited by C.Plavan; 08-07-2013 at 11:16 AM.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  19. #99
    Mechie3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    5,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    So, summary, to make sure I've followed right:

    Passenger side: Slot aluminum bushing bracket, trim gusset as required.
    Driver side: Slot steel bracket, trim gusset as required.

    So you robbed Peter to pay paul, and now Peter wants to be paid back with some M14 nuts. I'll have to see if i can find any lying around.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  20. #100
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    Not trying to be an A$$, but did you see that your front control arm bolts are in different spots in picture 3 of 5? Just looking out for ya buddy!
    OOPs brain fart when I tossed it back together to get the photo! Corrected it above (crudely I must add!)

    I didn't need to trim the brace on the passenger side...

    Mechie3 I'm using adj rear lower transverse links, can you give me the center to center distance of stock links? I need a starting point as I bolt that stuff together...
    Last edited by RM1SepEx; 08-07-2013 at 01:17 PM.

  21. #101
    Mechie3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    5,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    Mechie3 I'm using adj rear lower transverse links, can you give me the center to center distance of stock links? I need a starting point as I bolt that stuff together...
    What's it worth to you?

    We have a nifty hole centerline measuring caliper (uses cones to self center). I'll borrow it tonight and measure the links at home.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  22. #102
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'm having problems fitting the passenger footwell/dead pedal, anyone have a solution?

  23. #103
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    607
    Post Thanks / Like
    Good job man. I just spent a little over an hour cutting and grinding my driver side mounts. Looks like mine are misaligned in a different way than yours. Mine fit underneath but are angled. To get them straight I have to trim back that tab that hangs down. I'm afraid to cut too much of it off in case it has some structural properties to it. I decided to stop cutting the chassis when I got to my 3rd beer.

  24. #104
    Mechie3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    5,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    I'm having problems fitting the passenger footwell/dead pedal, anyone have a solution?
    A rubber mallet. I installed the side panels starting from the rear, then the front one, then placed the dead pedal, and then the upper panel that goes over it. I also too the small 90 deg flange and bent it a little farther (don't remember which direction, it's at the powder coaters right now). I did take a few light taps from the mallet to get it in position. I then started at the top of the small right angle flange, drilled, cleco'd, then, pushing in really hard, did the next hole down. Eventually it all lined up so I could drill the bottom flange on the floor pan. I then did the upper panel, and then the joint between the two.

    Spacing on the rear lateral links is about 16.25". I left the calipers at work (doh!) and used a tape measure.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  25. #105
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    I played with it like that too but started having it pop the floor down like an oil can... It looks like it would fit fine if the firewall was back about 1/2 inch... I'm not coating those so I put it off until later. I figure everything inside the car will be covered with fatmat and either carpet or foam and vinyl. My garage is a bit of a mess right now... I couldn't find that rubber mallet today!

    Thanks for the measurement. I just needed an approximate starting point...

    The LCA issue still has me a bit worried, who knows how the tolerances have added up and how straight our front ends will be? If those brackets move side to side 3/8 of an inch our front wheels can be moved accordingly and we could have some fender centering issues. I understand that can happen with some of their other vehicles... my confidence is shaken I guess! I made up my own chassis and jig for my reverse trike... getting it straight and square was a real PITA Who knows how straight our parts are too?
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  26. #106
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Exeter R.I
    Posts
    2,834
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    I set up weld fixtures and weld all day so I know stuff still distorts no matter how you set it up, but from my measurements the actual chassis is very square at all corners and mounting points and I am confident we will be fine.

    Mechie, all my spacers are actually stainless, and like 4 are aluminum

  27. #107
    Mechie3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    5,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hmm, maybe mine are stainless too. I didn't do the magnet check. The ones I machined were all within .005" (most right on) and the upper links were tight! I did have 1 aluminum one, which was odd. lol.

    I do remember the dead pedal frustrating me, but the second one was much easier. It did take a bit of "encouragament", but once it fit it's relatively easy to get it to fit again.

    Have either of you tried mounting the shifter yet?
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  28. #108
    Senior Member Flamshackle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Aotearoa (New Zealand)
    Posts
    648
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    The LCA issue still has me a bit worried, who knows how the tolerances have added up and how straight our front ends will be? If those brackets move side to side 3/8 of an inch our front wheels can be moved accordingly and we could have some fender centering issues. I understand that can happen with some of their other vehicles... my confidence is shaken I guess! I made up my own chassis and jig for my reverse trike... getting it straight and square was a real PITA Who knows how straight our parts are too?
    You should be able to get specification measurements and cross check it very easily surely?

    It should be very simple to confirm if the chassis is flat and accurate.
    __________________________________________________ _____________

    That man is no fool, who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
    __________________________________________________ _____________

  29. #109
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Exeter R.I
    Posts
    2,834
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Hmm, maybe mine are stainless too. I didn't do the magnet check. The ones I machined were all within .005" (most right on) and the upper links were tight! I did have 1 aluminum one, which was odd. lol.

    I do remember the dead pedal frustrating me, but the second one was much easier. It did take a bit of "encouragament", but once it fit it's relatively easy to get it to fit again.
    Have either of you tried mounting the shifter yet?
    More fun to come boys!!

    I am close to mounting the shifter, but had a snag, so I have to fix that first.
    Last edited by metalmaker12; 08-08-2013 at 04:49 AM.

  30. #110
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    Everything I have checked looks pretty square, remember you are measuring to welded areas etc... as Metal said with heat comes distortion... I plan on doing some more measurements today... It's my background as an engineer... find a problem, look for another! :-)
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  31. #111
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    Sadly I was correct... I messed up and elongated the wrong hole on my right aluminum bushing... my right wheel would have been almost 3/8 behind my left wheel

    My methodology:

    It is almost impossible to choose what to use as a reference, my aluminum is on the front so here goes...

    I set the control arms level and found the closest front frame ref at a level. It just happened to be at the same height as the top of the LCA bushing bracket. I put a piece of masking tape there for an easy to find mark.

    On the control arm end I found that the machined face behind the ball joint mount aligned with the measuring tape

    DSCF0008.JPGDSCF0006.JPG

    My measurement on the left side is 14 1/2 inches (can't discern past this level due to lack of hard measuring points) remember this mounting point was slotted for a bracket that was mounted too far forward, that is why we cut the vertical part of the mount.

    On the right side I was short by almost 3/8 of an inch! I had modified the lower mounting hole in the right LCA bushing. That swings the ball joint rearward, rotating the virtual triangle. I located my original mods based on minimizing bushing stress. Any slight misalignment of the front LCA mounting hole, even a small amount, moves the rear mount. My slotting of the rear inner hole made the dimension shorter than the other side where the mount was modified fore and aft.

    When I readjust the bushing to use the correct hole location on the right lower LCA bushing, I get 14 1/2 inches.

    So we need to all make sure that we adjust properly.

    My next question is what is the correct dimension to put the wheel in the center of the wheel well, time to contact Tony again!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by RM1SepEx; 08-08-2013 at 10:44 AM.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  32. #112
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Exeter R.I
    Posts
    2,834
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    Dan find center of the frame front and rear and measure to mount points, than from those points you can determine were the arms front and rear will reside. Sat i am re -intallimg my arms and will document.

  33. #113
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by metalmaker12 View Post
    Dan find center of the frame front and rear and measure to mount points, than from those points you can determine were the arms front and rear will reside. Sat i am re -intallimg my arms and will document.
    my measurements show that the lower mount holes are correct/symetrical... the uppers are much harder to determine...
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  34. #114
    Mechie3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    5,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'm just going to let you guys figure this one out.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  35. #115
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    I am stupid

    put a broom handle across the front of the car, it nestles right in to the frame and brackets. The aluminum tabs for the sway bar links are less than 1/4 inch away! Easy to set the arms perfectly in line... just hold them when the distance is correct and tighten the bolts. Now what is the correct distance for easy, even alignment in the wheel wells?

    Eric, you just put the body on can you check your arm location(s)?
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  36. #116
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Huntsville, Al
    Posts
    2,119
    Post Thanks / Like
    Not sure how you want me to measure, I have a ton of stuff in the way like all the coolant lines...
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

  37. #117
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Exeter R.I
    Posts
    2,834
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    When it comes time nick and I will post a thread on the alignment

  38. #118
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik W. Treves View Post
    Not sure how you want me to measure, I have a ton of stuff in the way like all the coolant lines...
    I'll ask you a different way:when you bolted up your LCAs you slid your front mount up into the forward mount and seated the rear mount above the outer frame bracket. You insert the front bolt and manipulate the rears to line up the holes. You put a spacer under the inside rear mount. Insert bolts and torque them down. How did you determine where to tighten down the rear mount? How did you make sure that the other side was at the same place? Since this location makes a big difference in where the actual center of the spindle ends up and where the wheel ends up in the eventual body location what is the optimum location?

    I was looking at it today and noticed that the steering rack mounts make a perfect place to put a straight edge across the front of the car. I can adjust the rear mounts a bit and get both sides to locate the tab for the sway bar linkage on my aluminum arms a smidge under 1/4 inch behind the line made by the broomstick, the line made by the front of the 818 and the LCA mounts.

    I'll ask Factory Five what the design's nominal location is to center the tires. Builders can then use this simple trick to get them in the correct position every time.

    Since you just got your body on, can you use something to check on your car... even a 3 foot section of 1/4 round bar stock slid in could be used to get an idea of where your wheels are.

    I'll add a photo tomorrow but I think it is pretty easy to visualize...

    Thanks!
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  39. #119
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    178
    Post Thanks / Like
    What about centering the steering wheel and then using a laser level on the rotors (use a 2x4 for a spacer) to go back to a board mounted to the rear mounting bracket. Compair measurements.

    Just an idea.

  40. #120
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Huntsville, Al
    Posts
    2,119
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    I'll ask you a different way:when you bolted up your LCAs you slid your front mount up into the forward mount and seated the rear mount above the outer frame bracket. You insert the front bolt and manipulate the rears to line up the holes. You put a spacer under the inside rear mount. Insert bolts and torque them down. How did you determine where to tighten down the rear mount? How did you make sure that the other side was at the same place? Since this location makes a big difference in where the actual center of the spindle ends up and where the wheel ends up in the eventual body location what is the optimum location?
    umm... I didn't measure or check anything.... simply put it in added required spacers so there was little to no stress on the arms and torqued them down. The fit of the bolt relative to the mount isn't a machined fit to begin with... Front initial alignment is at 3* caster, -0.5 camber with 5 inch ride height (too high!) wheels are centered to the naked eye in the wheel well opening, however the side sail positioning and squaring of the nose and fenders will really determine how it all "looks"... my locost 7 was off 1/16 -1/4 in total square from front to back which made the front suspension off "slightly", like 1/4- 5/16 off relative from left to right...I thought it was going to be a huge deal at the track...I couldn't tell... not saying it wasn't wrong then or that I was wrong for not ensuring that the left and right arms are totally square....I honestly didn't see it being a huge issue if it is off "slightly" since the alignment will ultimately determine how it drives (flame on here as you want).... I would measure it the way you did for comparison ,but between the coolant lines, sway bar end links, all the radiator aluminum and wheel well aluminum being in...I don't think I can give you an apples to apples measurement....not sure what to say...my overall angle of the control arm at the level position is 1* pitch up because of the whiteline bushings...after speaking wit Jim this ended up being in the "noise" and his ultimate answer was, see how it feels under braking...good enough for me...I flown way more screwed up helicopters in combat as a maintenance test pilot doing recoveries....so with a head nod from Jim I moved on...not saying I won't be back here asking you later how you fixed yours...lol...but I am ready for my first safe drive!
    Last edited by Erik W. Treves; 08-08-2013 at 09:54 PM.
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

Page 3 of 34 FirstFirst 1234513 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Breeze

Visit our community sponsor