RM1Sepex Build Thread

[Erik W. Treves]

They just came in Dan...so if you called before they came in....you are not in the cue in my opinion, also they are working on a "completion kit" or "a box of fix-parts" to address some of the issues....so you can either wait for that to all come together....or call and ask for them to be shipped seperate...which is what I did....i will have mine tomorrow....

[RM1SepEx]

so what did you have to do re the throttle pedal Erik... it is too low and hits the floor if depressed. It also sits about 4 inches deeper than the brake and clutch pedal

DSCF0008.JPGDSCF0009.JPG

[Xusia]

Dude, that little kart flies!

[Erik W. Treves]

Dan.

I have not mounted my gas pedal yet since my throttle cable was back ordered...it's in that "completion" box...I was going to mount it where ever made sense for my feet...also take a look at the center console...to me it looks like it crowds your foot as well... so I will be modifying this area too...I was going to hang the pedal tonight..I like my pedals pretty close and on the cobra and I modified the pedal placement there as well. I seem to recall the gas pedal was a lot lower in the wrx as well...which bugged me there too. I haven't look at the manual yet for mounting position yet...

[metalmaker12]

so what did you have to do re the throttle pedal Erik... it is too low and hits the floor if depressed. It also sits about 4 inches deeper than the brake and clutch pedal

DSCF0008.JPGDSCF0009.JPG

I mounted my pedal, on my thread, I cut it down 1" and re welded it.

[RM1SepEx]

Chris, you shortened it to get it off the floor, did you raise it up, it is so low vs the brake and clutch. I'm thinking bending it could work...

Just got off the phone with them... Boxes coming... Christmas before September 1st????

Somehow I was sent an old hot rod gas tank! New one coming too!

Anyone else looking at using the stock seats? I'm having mounting issues there too.

HELP Anyone not using their stock rear sway bar bushing mounts or have a spare pair? Don't know how I lost mine...

[Mechie3]

Dan, I was sent a new PS bracket. Dimensionally it's very close to the aluminum one I made and it looks like it would fit. I didn't mount it up, but did mock it into position. The diameter fits well and the height looks good. It's a little narrower to miss the fitting too.

[metalmaker12]

Chris, you shortened it to get it off the floor, did you raise it up, it is so low vs the brake and clutch. I'm thinking bending it could work...

Just got off the phone with them... Boxes coming... Christmas before September 1st????

Somehow I was sent an old hot rod gas tank! New one coming too!

Anyone else looking at using the stock seats? I'm having mounting issues there too.

HELP Anyone not using their stock rear sway bar bushing mounts or have a spare pair? Don't know how I lost mine...

I cut one inch off on the pedal side of the pedal steel shaft. ( remember to remove plastic pedal if anyone tries this ) which raised the pedal off the floor and puts it is a nice location next to the other pedals. I am just waiting for cable to finish install. Pm me your email and I wil send you numerous pics.

[RM1SepEx]

Craig, Tony is putting a new rack mount in my care package. Thankfully it went from it mounts on the bottom to we will box one up for you...

Chris, I sent PM for more detailed photos... I'll see how I proceed after some feedback from Factory five and your work.

I finished up the mounting of the rear suspension... almost ready for it to roll around!

[RM1SepEx]

In my update pkg I got a pair of 1/4 thick aluminum struts of some sort... Anyone know what they are for? I can't find anything in the manual or the update kit to give me a clue as to what they are!

DSCF0033.JPG

Tony Zullo tells me that these are for our new inside door panels! Can't wait to see them...

[Racebrewer]

Per Joe at FFR "Door pull straps"

Cool.

John

[RM1SepEx]

so, running my brake lines today... provided parts can not work as provided.... time to get out the flaring tool to customize the line lengths...

[metalmaker12]

so, running my brake lines today... provided parts can not work as provided.... time to get out the flaring tool to customize the line lengths...

Hmmm some guy mentioned that

[RM1SepEx]

I have two 60 inch lines in hand and need three 20 inch lines to finish... The directions just don't work and you can just add up the fittings and see that there are not enough to do the job!

Did you change where the clutch flex attached? I need another rivet on tab and clip. Letting the steel line go across to the flex line laying under the intake is downright dangerous! I moved mine to the strut across the rear shock towers...

DSCF0021.JPGDSCF0022.JPGDSCF0019.JPG

I also received a revised 05-07 steering rack bracket... I still had to modify it, the bracket still interfered with the fitting. And those aluminum spacers are 1.09 long not .865 as in the manual... There are more variations that Factory Five haven't seen yet!

[RM1SepEx]

They just came in Dan...so if you called before they came in....you are not in the cue in my opinion, also they are working on a "completion kit" or "a box of fix-parts" to address some of the issues....so you can either wait for that to all come together....or call and ask for them to be shipped seperate...which is what I did....i will have mine tomorrow....

I've been asking... still not here! And I got my update box... they are working on some revised seat brackets for me too, the 05-07 brackets don't work so they were working on drawing up and cutting out some new ones for me.

I NEED my axles, rear transaxle plate and throttle cable!!!

[metalmaker12]

Why do you think running the clutch line under the intake is dangerous. I used the factory clutch line bracket and mated it to the tower brace

[RM1SepEx]

watch the videos, the engine moves a lot! the flex needs to be mounted to the frame somehow, when it is under the intake the hard line ends up doing all the flexing... gonna break when you least expect it!

There is a reason you have the flex at that connection and not mounting the hard line allows it to "flex"... LOL. I'll dig through the boxes looking for that factory bracket... great idea!

[metalmaker12]

Dan I did not attach my clutch line to the engine, it is elevated under the intake and above the block. I have good clearance and I am hooked up to the factory mount that is mounted to the cross brace.

[bstuke]

"Door pull straps"

Doors = Overrated...

Now how to permanently attach them!

[RM1SepEx]

Dan I did not attach my clutch line to the engine, it is elevated under the intake and above the block. I have good clearance and I am hooked up to the factory mount that is mounted to the cross brace.

that would work, check the new manual for their soln, that won't work, it makes the hard line do the flexing, the flex to hard line connection isn't mounted to the frame...

Here's what I ended up with after buying a 1/2 dozen fittings. I did use a couple metric fittings off my donor too. The master cylinder connection was very close to the windshield surround. Now by using the metric fitting with no adapter it fits easily.

I put together the radiator extension and mounted the radiator. Both the stock radiator and my aluminum 2 row have big time interference issues with the left bellows of the steering rack. I think that we have clearance on the body work to shim it up 3/8 or so... Am I correct?

[Erik W. Treves]

Dan with respect to the master cylinder line...I would not worry about tucking it under the windshield surround...look at your last picture and ask yourself after the car is done how will you put or even check the fluid level?? on mine I did this and there is a cover plate in the aluminum box to cover the hole..I have since cleaned up the openings so it looks better and more finished.



The radiator hose is VERY close..mine just cleared...I ended up cutting the mounts and raising them about 1/2 inch...I have a ton of room now.

[RM1SepEx]

Yes, I have been wondering about the fluid levels once assembled. On yours you did what? Cut an access hole and made a cover?

What do you mean about cutting the mounts and raising it 1/2 inch? you had no problem raising the entire radiator 1/2 inch? Photos?

[Erik W. Treves]

So here is the upper hose...it looks close but it isn't..you can see the shadow...I still have about 3/4 inch before I even contact the hood.



I tried to highlight the area...hard to see hope it comes out...the red lines is where I cut.. the green box is the piece of steel I added ..took all of about 15 minutes to make the mod.

[metalmaker12]

You know the shifter bushings on the plastic shifter we have to take off ( just the rubber part) they fit under the radiator and raise it just enough do you can get the clearance you need and still be secure, I even used the metal insert and rubber other two bushing to mount the top of the radiator to the mount. It worked well, I will send you pics when I can

[Frank818]

I guess this radiator clearance issue (and maybe the brake fluid level too?) has been raised to FFR?

[RM1SepEx]

You know the shifter bushings on the plastic shifter we have to take off ( just the rubber part) they fit under the radiator and raise it just enough do you can get the clearance you need and still be secure, I even used the metal insert and rubber other two bushing to mount the top of the radiator to the mount. It worked well, I will send you pics when I can

Nice! two on the pins on the bottom, two under the bolts on the top!

[metalmaker12]

Nice! two on the pins on the bottom, two under the bolts on the top!

yeah on the bottom just the rubber insert, just tried it one day and it worked out

[RM1SepEx]

So it is time to attack the harness!

I've spread it out on the garage floor, You can unplug several obvious areas like door harnesses
7 DSCF0041.JPG 8 DSCF0040.JPG

I've started cutting all the sheathing and plastic holders off the harness. I want to strip out a ton of stuff that we don't use. Anything that was wired into the doors for example, I have no need for power windows or locks, power mirrors or door open switches. I'm not using ABS or airbags so that stuff can come out too. I am running a stereo but not the stock one, I'll add that later so the stereo wires can go too. So I have some questions on some pieces and am looking for some knowledge from Subaru guys out there..

Is there any reason why I can't strip out EVERY ABS and EVERY airbag wire? BTW the airbag wires are all bundled in yellow, they stand out big time. There is a keyless entry box, is that just remote door locking/unlocking with no disable the car function making it a candidate for total removal as well?
3 DSCF0047.JPG 4 DSCF0045.JPG

There is a box labeled security unit, what is this?
6 DSCF0043.JPG

on the ABS harness there is a DENSO box, with orange and chrome shiny label RH, another on the other side of the entire harness that says LH with a blue and chrome label, what are these?
9 DSCF0002.JPG 10 DSCF0050.JPG 5 DSCF0044.JPG

There are two fuel level sending units... one with fuel pump one on the other end of the tank which one are we supposed to use the wiring from for the new one in out tank? And do all of the Factory 5 fuel sensors only read the bottom tank level for fuel level?
DSCF0001.JPG

What is this, the bracket says front on it with an arrow...
DSCF0048.JPG

[Mechie3]

Security unit is the shock sensor (factory upgrade option).

Keyless entry should be kept if you want to be able to disable the alarm. On both my subarus, inserting the key into the door and opening it set off the alarm if I didn't use the FOB ahead of time. It might be nice to be able to use the stock door open sensors to turn on/off an interior or puddle lamp. The rear door sensors will probably need to be shorted together to prevent the alarm from thinking the doors are permanently open.

[RM1SepEx]

in the trunk area harness there is a denso unit with a heat sink on the back, what is it?

DSCF0054.JPGDSCF0053.JPG

Thanks Craig, I'm planning on going aftermarket with a door popper system and use the extra functions on that for other stuff... so I should be able to totally strip that system?

by shock sensor, it blasts the horn if the car is bumped etc....

[JAubin]

I believe the unit w/ the heat sink is your fuel pump control unit.

[Mechie3]

Yes. If the car is bumped, it sets off the horn.

[Erik W. Treves]

9,10,5 I believe are the impact sensors for the airbags

the bracket with the arrow on it (last pic) is the ABS Accel I believe...looks like a little RDD2 thing...

Not sure I understand your fuel level question...none of that gets used. just use the the hook up from the sensor that is attached on the fuel pump assy. The aux level sensors are not used.

[RM1SepEx]

thanks Erik, that's what I figured. My fuel pump controller is about 7 feet from the fuel pump/sensor plug of the wrx that I need to splice in to... there is so much extra wire, it's no wonder the tunnel ends up a rat's nest of wires!

so if I remove all ABS and airbag wires, pull abs and airbag fuses what issues can I expect? Just codes to clear in the software... I plan on using a Cobb Accessport... Craig you mentioned an issue with the Cobb and climate controls use for launch control (which I don't want)

Thanks for the help, all. I'm hoping we can document everything so people can replicate my harness diet.

[Mechie3]

As per a different thread, Cobb apparently no longer uses the HVAC for launch control.

[RM1SepEx]

good, I'd like to adapt an old fashioned slide and flapper heater control system vs the new electronic CRAP (IMHO after spending 800 to repair my 04 Silverado heater control, all the units need to communicate w/each other yada yada yada) and in Maine I have no need for AC

[flytosail]

Visited -RM1SepEx yesterday and wanted to say thanks for taking the 30 minutes of time out of his build to cover a bunch of things for me. There are some things that are going to be easy for me and a few things that are going to hard. What might be an easy modification in the area of a radiator ount would shut me down for days staring at wondering how to fix it. The aluminum work should fall together for me.

Guess what I hope to say is to all the beta builders ... there are many of us watching you guys and buliding along with you in our minds. Thanks in advance for all of the feedback that you do here and to FFR.

[RM1SepEx]

No problem re your visit, nice to take some time off...

Diet of the wiring is ongoing
radio, speaker wires, door wiring for all doors including open door switches done...

electric mirror stuff gone
rear wiring around the fuel tank cleaned up and chopped off. The two existing fuel level senders are wired in series... way too much junk concerned with vapors and the charcoal canister... I'll be making up a custom aluminum one vs that old plastic behemoth that was by the gas tank.

All that yellow airbag stuff is next, then I'll see what I can do re the ABS wiring

[metalmaker12]

in the trunk area harness there is a denso unit with a heat sink on the back, what is it?

DSCF0054.JPGDSCF0053.JPG

Thanks Craig, I'm planning on going aftermarket with a door popper system and use the extra functions on that for other stuff... so I should be able to totally strip that system?

by shock sensor, it blasts the horn if the car is bumped etc....

It is the fuel pump controller. You can bypass it and the fuel pump harness, but I would just bypass the harness, cause the controller is a safety feature also. Here's how: For the fuel pump harness you need the connector prior to fuel pump harness with black orange (+)and black white (-)to the FFR pump. sending unit: a brown white from the multiple pin connector prior to pump harness to sening unit + and than groud unit to frame. If you got questions, and you will I can send images and call you to walk through it. There is many other mods and tweaks.

[Evan78]

What logic does the pump controller use?