RM1Sepex Build Thread

[RM1SepEx]

I have no idea what it's function is... :-)

[longislandwrx]

What logic does the pump controller use?

Spock_Week17.jpg

It is a voltage regulator that can drop the appx fuel pump duty cycle from 0%, 33%, 66%, or 100% based on what the ecu is demanding.
If you were to datalog what voltage your pump is seeing you might see it go from 5v-14v's
It will also kill the pump if the engine stalls, something that doesn't happen if you just run the pump off a relay.

Car will run fine if you hard wire the pump, but you'd probably want to tune as you will most likely be running rich. It's there, and already wired and a nice safety feature. I'd use it.

[RM1SepEx]

I'm leaving the fuel pump controller but I think I can take advantage of it's location and avoid having to extend the tail light wires so much. I have seven feet of wire between it and the fuel pump and sender plug. It should clean up some of the rats nest wiring...

Next question... Just off the air bag sensor pig tails I have what looks like light connections... My roll over came with totally trashed front lights so I'm not sure what they are. Check out the photos, are these for lights, if so which ones?

LH AB Sensor and light.JPGRH Air Bag Sensor and light.JPG

Other questions:

How do you disconnect the stock fuel line connectors w/o some special tool?

I found an unmarked plug, it is off the left headlight loom somewhere around a piezo speaker beeper. Itr is a translucent, single connection plug, covered with black grease. I forgot to label it or it fell off in storage and handling

LF unident.JPGfuel 2.JPGfuel 1.JPG

[RM1SepEx]

Found a tool at Napa for the fuel line... a little grinding to fit but I got them off... :-)

[longislandwrx]

the specialty tool is only like $4 for a plastic one, or $20 or so for a set.

That connector is the passenger side horn

The piezo is the door chirp.

Additionally, the connected sensor on the third leg is the ambient temp sensor for your climate control. I don't think it ties into the ECU.

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks, I found both marked horn, so that one isn't the horn (horn plugs are black)

does the door chirp depend on the door open switches that I tossed? :-)

Any idea on the connectors that look like lights for my 05? I'm sure donor year matters.

The metal NAPA tool was on sale but wouldn't fit due to the Subaru bracket... I modified it to work. Now I need to install an in line fuel filter since my 05 only had one in the tank.

[Xusia]

If Subaru felt the one in the tank was sufficient, why add an extra?

[RM1SepEx]

because the F5 tank doesn't allow for the in tank unit... so I now have no filter...

[Xusia]

Ah-ha!

[RM1SepEx]

so... looking at the fuel filter, coolant overflow tank etc... Where is everyone putting those?

Doesn't make sense to me to put the coolant overflow on the left and run a tube to the turbo coolant tank on the right... Why not put the coolant tank on the right? I'm thinking another tank off the radiator would be prudent too...

The fuel filter placement is also a question, I'd like to leave that area between the engine and firewall "clean" if possible. Options? I'm thinking over the low portion of the tank on the left... in front of where F5 put the fuse panel

[RM1SepEx]

harness 1.JPGharness 2.JPGharness 3.JPG

Just weighed my dieted harness... this weight includes all relays, fuse boxes and the cruise control unit

My original weight was 42 lbs, now it weighs 26

wasn't hard to do, just tedious.... removed the sheathing (save it) from everything except the main trunk of the harness. IDed systems to remove and just manually traced and pulled, cut wire at each end and if need be gently pull it through the trunk section... (Airbags and the window controls esp) after I reused the sheathing where I could, its just heavy plastic wrapped around the wire bundle. Then I re wrapped it with 2 rolls of tape.

Once I get the fuel buttoned up I can start laying the wires.

[Zodiac]

what tools are needed to remove pins and crimp after shortening or installing longer wires? I plan on doing my wiring harness soon also

edit: found it lol its pretty easy

obd1.pin_removal.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

I didn't extend anything yet... :-( And when I do I won't be removing and replacing pins... I've has issues with that technique before. easier and safer to just cut the wire a few inches away and extend with solder and shrink tubing. If you do each wire 2 inches apart down the line you don't get a big lump in the harness.

[RM1SepEx]

So I bought a fuel filter today at NAPA... BTW 2005 filter = $35... 2002 filter =$20 wild huh!

Finished the fuel setup, put the filter just over the tank where the level sender is... I had to make an aluminum strap to mount it as my donor only had the in tank filter that won't work with our tank/fuel pump setup.

I also mounted the lower AL firewall... F5 has you riveting it from below with 3/16 rivets. I used 1/4 - 20 riv-nuts. Why bolt in a tank and then rivet the firewall over it?

Riv-nut tip: These can get spun out, add strength by putting some super glue on the underside of the riv-nut, all around the shoulder. When you clamp it down you get the added strength of the super glue.

[Xusia]

From the video I saw, riv-nuts aren't removable (just as rivets aren't removable; without drilling anyway), what's the advantage to using them?

Thanks for the learning!

[RM1SepEx]

If you rivet on the firewall you can't remove it w/o drilling out every rivet.

I can remove the firewall bottom by removing seven 1/4 -20 pan head screws from under the car.

I'll be attaching the top of the rear fire wall with the riv-nuts as well. the top firewall covers about 1/2 of the car's wiring... I don't want to drill out rivets to get to the fuel pump or wiring! (tomorrow AM's work, Patriot's football tonite!)

My body won't be riveted on either... If I make it removable I can just remove a bunch of screws and get it painted, repaired etc...

pop rivets should be considered permanent. Riv-nuts and screws allow you to disassemble something.

[metalmaker12]

Twist, solder and heat shrink, looking good Dan, I have everything working

[RM1SepEx]

My back order box in in FedX's hands right now. Last time it came the next day... :-)

so I should be about another week before I can start her up. Did you position the components like shown in the manual Chris? I'd like to get the ECU under the firewall and improve access to the fuse panel as well. Perhaps if I rotate the fuse panel to face forward I can put a removable door behind the driver's seat...

Moving the ECU would allow me to put the radiator overflow on the right bulkhead vs the left... I need to make up a charcoal canister too... I found an old tread a while back on this forum that could help design one... my original is an ugly beasty, I'd like a smaller aluminum one to put in the rear.

does the orientation of the fuel pump controller matter? Did it do something when my donor rolled?

[metalmaker12]

I have them mocked up and held on with zip ties, do nothing permanent yet

[RM1SepEx]

yup, I've got a bag of 100, 12 inch zip ties... used 5-6 today too!

[longislandwrx]

Thanks, I found both marked horn, so that one isn't the horn (horn plugs are black)



does the door chirp depend on the door open switches that I tossed? :-)

ok on my 05 harness the three leads coming out of that bundle are the ones I said. Does it come from a different area?

and no it should still chirp, just wont do anything. good for locating the car though.

[RM1SepEx]

It comes out with those other two pigtails... I'll have to mark it with a ? and check it when I can apply power (next week??? )

Any idea on those other ones? Short pigtail comes out right by the airbag sensors on both the front and rear side...

[Mechie3]

I like the idea of bolting those parts together. I wonder if pen nuts on the lower firewall would work. Seems the rivnuts facing upwards would look a little messy as you'd see the compressed rivet end. Got a pic?

[RM1SepEx]

I did take a pic but it's too dark... I'll get one tomorrow. I'll cover mine up with something. You could use acorn nuts, they would look good.

[Mechie3]

Just rechecked the manual. It says to reuse the in tank filter. Did you try it and it didn't fit? I haven't tried as my submersible fuel line is on back order. Wonder if its a universal figment thing or different for different model years.

[RM1SepEx]

Can't, it isn't made to be used externally with hoses. It only has a hose barb on one end, the other is a female connection with an internal O-ring

[Mechie3]

I'm confused. You can't put your in tank sock back on the pump? I'm lost with the whole external use with hoses. My 06 donor only ever had the in tank sock.

[RM1SepEx]

not talking about the sock! The original fuel tank pump setup includes a fuel filter, 2.5 inch dia, say 4 inches long. One end connects to fuel hose, the other has a female (internal) connection using an O-ring... I doesn't fit the F5 units, it can't be used externally or inline with fuel hose. I bet your 06 donor has the same one mine does... I also had no stock external filter...

[metalmaker12]

I am just putting an external filter only, just like it should be, old school.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

here is a picture of the Subaru filter in an 06. it is #40 right above the pump.

fuel.jpg

In the manual FFR doesn't show the in tank filter.
Bob

[wallace18]

If you rivet on the firewall you can't remove it w/o drilling out every rivet.

I can remove the firewall bottom by removing seven 1/4 -20 pan head screws from under the car.

I'll be attaching the top of the rear fire wall with the riv-nuts as well. the top firewall covers about 1/2 of the car's wiring... I don't want to drill out rivets to get to the fuel pump or wiring! (tomorrow AM's work, Patriot's football tonite!)

My body won't be riveted on either... If I make it removable I can just remove a bunch of screws and get it painted, repaired etc...

pop rivets should be considered permanent. Riv-nuts and screws allow you to disassemble something.

You can also use 10-32 screws to hold panels and firewalls in place. You just drill and thread the steel tubing. It looks nice when done. I did this on my 33. They even make drill taps that do it all at once making it easy.

[RM1SepEx]

Tom,

I considered doing just that but on the lower 818 firewall would be using the 10-32 up from underneath into the 1/8 thick aluminum firewall, I didn't think 4 threads per screw would be strong enough in aluminum... I didn't want to use a screw every inch to minimize load on the threads and about 1/2 of the lower firewall's edge is open space of the floor pan. I considered a strip of 1/8 inch thick steel plate to thread as a sort of nut. You could use captured nuts too. Some of the steel tubing is thick enough to use threaded into the steel tubing (1/8 or 3/16) but others are only .063 - .065 thick, that would only be 2 threads engaged. Those screws give just a bit and I was afraid that it would be be squeeks all the time...

When I upholster my interior it will be covered.

[Mechie3]

That makes sense. I thought you were talking about the sock not the tennis ball. I might get a billet filter. Jegs makes one with AN fittings already a part of the assembly.

[Goldwing]

Another issue on the lower portion of the firewall as you described (I don't have my kit yet for reference) would be dissimilar metal corrosion. Steel screws holding aluminum paneling is fine because you have coatings minimizing interaction with the screw head. Steel threads directly threaded into aluminum with direct metal to metal contact in a load bearing joint could be a problem in a few years after lots of temperature cycles. Epoxying a backer nut in place behind the aluminum could be a solution, but again, I can't picture what we're talking about. Just wanted to point out the dissimilar metal bit.

[RM1SepEx]

Here are photos of the lower firewall and my external fuel filter. The riv-nuts don't stick up any more than the fuel tank mounting bolts

FedX just dropped off my B/O box still missing some parts inc throttle cable and got fine axles vs course axles UGH

fuel filter.JPGriv-nuts.JPG

[Mechie3]

The rivnuts don't look bad at all. I was imagining the bent over standard rivet look. I'll have to see if I have enough room to drill out my rivet holes or if it puts me too close to the edge.

[metalmaker12]

I used rivnuts on the upper firewall to lower and to frame, also on the center console to be able to remove when needed

[RM1SepEx]

I used rivnuts on the upper firewall to lower and to frame, also on the center console to be able to remove when needed

That's my plan! Anything that can be made removable is good!

Just got of the phone with Tony, they have the correct axles, going out today, the throttle cable also came in today so I'll have another important box Monday! aFTER THAT i ONLY WILL HAVE THE LARGE cv BANDS AND MY cf PIECES AS BACK ORDERS. Ooops, caps lock disease.... sorry

[Zodiac]

being removable sounds great. only thing on rivnuts i was able to find was cutting the top off or using a vice grip to crimp and pull/push through the hole. is this what you mean? or are you talking about rivscrews? i found this site RivScrews which seems like its very easy to remove. Not sure on reviews for it just yet

[wallace18]

Another issue on the lower portion of the firewall as you described (I don't have my kit yet for reference) would be dissimilar metal corrosion. Steel screws holding aluminum paneling is fine because you have coatings minimizing interaction with the screw head. Steel threads directly threaded into aluminum with direct metal to metal contact in a load bearing joint could be a problem in a few years after lots of temperature cycles. Epoxying a backer nut in place behind the aluminum could be a solution, but again, I can't picture what we're talking about. Just wanted to point out the dissimilar metal bit.

That is why I use rubber backed S/S washers to help with the corrosion.