RM1Sepex Build Thread

[wallace18]

like an inner tube?

Maybe a thick one? Not like a bicycle tube. I used some rubber I had from some old insulation.

[RM1SepEx]

Motorcycle tube is thicker... I also have some 1/8 inch thick stuff, natural tan color

[RM1SepEx]

Chris, Can you shoot me a photo of your shifter setup? I feel that the shifter is about 3 inches too high... Not sure about the fore/aft location either

Am I supposed to cut my fuel filler tube shorter? The lower section of my filler tube is waaaay longer than the one in the manual on page 180

DSCF0034.JPG

[metalmaker12]

My shifter and everything is all disassembled, waiting for tank, I like the shifter high so I am not a good reference.

[RM1SepEx]

did you have issues with the fuel filler tube as shown above?

New fuel filler tube coming... I've been asking about it for WEEKS! UGH

So the sent me the wrong fuel tank AND the wrong filler...

[RM1SepEx]

My shifter and everything is all disassembled, waiting for tank, I like the shifter high so I am not a good reference.

Waiting for tank?

[RM1SepEx]

Busy weekend, trip to Mass with my trailer to pickup a newer car for my Nephew Saturday...

Finished rear firewall bulkhead. I used 10-24 stainless screws with pan/washer heads and riv-nuts

I drilled all the holes 1/8 first and used clecos to ensure alignment, then re-drill for riv-nut and clearance holes in the top panel using the 1/8 holes as pilot holes to ensure the correct position.

I use super glue on each riv-nut before insertion to increase holding power. Another good tip, use a small cap for an oil reservior to dip the drill bit into before each hole. Adds tons of life to the bit, drills better and cools the bit after each hole too! And yes my 3/8 Skil drill is over 30 years old!

DSCF0035.JPG
DSCF0038.JPG
inserts.JPG

[metros]

Good idea on the oil cap and using pilot holes.

Old tools are always the best tools. I love finding old tools and picking them up cheap, plus they're typically better quality than new equivalents.

[RM1SepEx]

too many people only have battery powered drills now. While I love my 18V DeWalt drill and impact/driver drilling holes is best done either with a plug in or air powered drill. Higher RPM and longer work times... and you use a key to tighten the chuck!

This old Skil was actually my wife's drill before we got married, my original Craftsman died after doing my house... too many holes for pipes and wires using the speedbore, spade type bits. It's not long for this world, many sparks from the old brushes...

[D2W]

Love the old skil I have an "old" drill, don't even know the brand. It was my dad's might even have been my Gpa's. Aluminum housing that gets hot if you use it too much. I rarely use it anymore as I have a milwaukie holeshooter for when I need a plug in drill, but I'll never get rid of it.

[Justen]

Maybe a thick one? Not like a bicycle tube. I used some rubber I had from some old insulation.

I will probably use some rescue tape to wrap mine where it contacts the frame, Its self fusing silicone.

[Wayne Presley]

Chris, Can you shoot me a photo of your shifter setup? I feel that the shifter is about 3 inches too high... Not sure about the fore/aft location either

Am I supposed to cut my fuel filler tube shorter? The lower section of my filler tube is waaaay longer than the one in the manual on page 180

DSCF0034.JPG

I cut the GRM one just behind the rolled lip.

[metalmaker12]

I cut the GRM one just behind the rolled lip.

Ditto, cut my tube in the same place

[RM1SepEx]

Ditto, cut my tube in the same place

so why did they tell me they would send out a new one when I asked if I was supposed to cut it?

And why do we all need to hit such issues w/o communication from Factory Five BEFORE we get there and spin our wheels????

[Racebrewer]

Thanks for the tip on using Super Glue on the Riv-Nuts. It makes lots of sense. Any particular Super Glue or just Generic?

Much appreciated,
John

[Joe Scott]

Dan,

there was two revisions on that filler neck, depending on which filler assembly (metal filler) was two different ways to install it. i think Tony just sent you the newer filler because it was straight to the point on the install, needing no modifications or extra hose. on all the 818's currently going out do not have any filler neck issues

Joe@FFRTECH

[BrandonDrums]

So I bought a fuel filter today at NAPA... BTW 2005 filter = $35... 2002 filter =$20 wild huh!

Sounds like you're already done with this but many WRX guys remove the in-tank fuel filter and convert post '04 wrx and STI models to use the under-hood filter instead. I've done this myself. Basically you just use some 3/8'' (I think) fuel-grade (duh) hose to replace the span between the fuel pump and fuel plate nipple and then you remove what looks like a fuel pressure regulator (which is actually just a weak damper redundant to the stock fuel pressure regulators. It's worthless but you can just put another line on it too) to put the fuel filter there. I've had this setup on my 05 for 4 years now.

After 90k I wanted to replace the in-tank filter and at the time there were no stand-alone replacements. Literally, the local Subaru dealership couldn't even find a part number for the in-tank filter and they told me it was a permanent filter that could only be replaced by installing a new assembly. That wasn't true but that's what got me to decide to covert to the older style.

When I got mine out and cut it open, I found it was made out of basically rolled up cardboard and was filled almost completely with sediment. You can't clean the in-tank filters out, the only way to get them open is to break the housing and the filter media is paper that basically disintegrate when you handle it.

Here's what your in-tank assembly will then look like after removing the in-tank filter:


Here's how you can install the filter keeping that little magnet damper thingy. It goes on the top line connecting to the engine.

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks for the tip on using Super Glue on the Riv-Nuts. It makes lots of sense. Any particular Super Glue or just Generic?

Much appreciated,
John

The little $1.00 tubes in multi packs from Walmart are my favorites as they end up getting stuck together you can't open the tube again and you waste it anyway.... The glue really adds a good safety factor to the assembly.

[metalmaker12]

so why did they tell me they would send out a new one when I asked if I was supposed to cut it?

And why do we all need to hit such issues w/o communication from Factory Five BEFORE we get there and spin our wheels????

I also have the updated filler neck. Dan, they have been busy with many updates and shipments, most of our issues are very minor in the whole scheme of things. If you have any concerns email me, I am in clear contact with them very often.

[Xusia]

This bottle may cost more than the Walmart stuff, but it's the ONLY superglue bottle/container I've ever seen that doesn't get clogged. You get to use ALL the superglue:

http://www.freedivestore.com/fin-acc...uper-glue.html

[RM1SepEx]

Metalmaker....

Any tips on getting the wiring situated? It's awful hard to do alone dragging that 30 or so lbs of wire etc...

Did you just try to lay it out in general location next to the car? Work it in through the passenger compartment...

[metalmaker12]

Your a tropper for sure, I give you a lot of credit man. I just laid it in the tunnel completely plugged together and just plugged in the engine plugs and moved down to the column plugs. You have to extend the brake light, clutch switches and all the head light, fans and horns (if your using the oem horns)and tail lights, along with tranny, reverse and neutral safety. Eventually you will also have to extend the column wires to fit the interior center console piece in. Use zip ties to hold it in place as temporary holds to get it tight in the tunnel, but not to crazy, you might have to fix a relay etc. Get it all together and see if you get power to cluster.Than take two shots and call me in the morning when your lost and I will guide you. The bigger pain is the e brake cables. I am at a stand still waiting for my Boyd tank

[RM1SepEx]

did you extend before laying it in the car or after? I'm not sure how accurate their extension #s are and slight routing changes will effect how long they need to be, I know for sure that I may choose different routings based on what I've seen out of them so far!

My broken thumb's still giving me a problem and I burnt my hand on my Kart's exhaust 2 weeks ago so I've got some bothersome stuff going on as well.

I played with the shifter and ebrake placement, I can see what you mean with the ebrake cables and I don't know what I'll do with shifter. I'm still waiting for the new seat rails and I'm thinking the stock steering wheel won't work with the stock seat, wheels too close. The stock seats barely even fit in the seat space... UGH

[metalmaker12]

I extended once in the car to get good measurements, like I said the build book for me is a guide, and I just went with instincts. Yea I scrapped the idea of stock seats, steering wheel, FFR tank and stock offset wheels

[RM1SepEx]

I've been procrastinating on the wires, once I got almost everything else B/O I've been doing those things first. I moved my gas pedal up almost 1.5 inches and I'm still not happy w position. BTW can someone shoot me a photo showing how that stupid pedal spring goes? I removed it to weld the pedal rod w/o melting the pedal and can't see how it goes!

Life keeps getting in the way, delaying my work on the 818... tractor problems stopping my daughter's lawn mowing, carb clogged up on my DD2 Kart due to STUPID ethanol mandates... Now it's running strong again and my new MG Green slicks won't seat on my rims! Have to get something mounted today for tomorrow's autocross!

At least the weather has been great and the MC riding and convertible driving has been awesome! New top going on my 91 325IC, going in the shop Monday. Only 22 years out of the original fabric soft top!

[RM1SepEx]

Metal,

which side did you run the wires that connect to the transaxle connections and the last O2 sensor?

[metalmaker12]

Drivers

[metalmaker12]

My cell is 401-523-9249, text me with questions

[RM1SepEx]

So between the manual (little use) and Metalmaker's inputs (more helpful) here is where I got to today with the wiring:

I think that Factory Five's add x inches to wire y instructions are not much help, there is too much variability depending on placement and routing...

so I dumped the harness in the car and started hooking stuff up starting with the engine connections

As you move along you need to rearrange the harness and untwist and untangle. It is a big help if most of the sheathing is removed.

My rear harness must be way different that the one's used to do the manual. I was able to entend it all the way to the rear of the car and loop some of it around the transmission for a photo. My fuel pump controller can be place beside the transaxle. I have over 7 feet of wire between the fuel pump connections and the controller. My tail light extensions will be very short.

You have to extend all 3 of the connections to the transaxle and the rearmost O2 sensor. Metal and I are running them down the right side of the car. I'll be doing that when I start up again Monday, autocross tomorrow.

If you strip the sheathing the 10 GA starter wire appears long enough to avoid needing to extend it.

If I place the main fuse panel up vs the angled frame member over the tank but under the rear firewall it leaves much more room to stretch the harness forward vs mounting it over the left trailing arm pivot as shown in the manual

It appears that everything going to the steering wheel, gauges etc will need to be extended, not just the few wires identified in the manual.

I'm going to cut up the tunnel aluminum to make it easier to put the wire in and service it if I have a problem. I'm going to make 3 cuts: first remove the back portion that contacts the rear firewall on both sides. This area gets covered by the smaller, heavier gauge piece anyway. I can mount these two pieces permanently and now still remove the fire wall and gas tank. I have a confined space to pack in the wiring vs trying to lower the cover over what will be a huge rats nest of wires.

Next I'm going to cut off the top. I'll mount it separately with riv nuts, I may make a new piece with the sides bent over for a better finish, I'll be upholstering it anyway.

I pounded the ECU tabs flat, I think I can use them to mount the ecu over the tank on the right side. I'll make a small aluminum cover for the back side

I have a couple questions:

The green plug from the cruise control in the wheel, what does it plug in to? ( Photo 10 )
I have a plug near the main fuse block, clear in color same pigtail output area as the windshield washer pump, what is it?
I have single plugs near each headlight harness for the horns, confirmed by Metalmaker as horn connections, I also have a black connecter with a latch that is still connected to a horn... You can see it in one of the above photos by the ECU. It comes off the harness the same area as the ballast resistor... (I think that's what it is, says caution high temp on it) 3 horns, really? ( picture 4 )
I have a single light green wire that ends with a black spade connector that comes of the biggest of the 3 large white connecters, must have lost the ID tape... any ideas? parking brake perhaps

dash.JPGrats nest 2.JPGrats nest 1.JPGhorn +.JPGfuel harness +.JPGfpc tail light harness.JPGecu.JPGecu flat 2.JPGecu flat 1.JPGsteering wheel.JPG

[metalmaker12]

The last one sounds like the parking brake, if its GB I am almost certain it is. Take pics of all your question wire connectors and send them to me, I will figure it out for you.

[GUNS]

Great progress Dan! Thanks for the info on the wiring, it's going to be very helpful when I get to that point.

[RM1SepEx]

the last one sounds like the parking brake, if its gb i am almost certain it is. Take pics of all your question wire connectors and send them to me, i will figure it out for you.

gb ??

[metalmaker12]

Green black

[RM1SepEx]

I updated the above post with ID of the photos where I had questions

here are some more...
I have a horn plugged into a single conductor black plug with a latch, it connects to the harness at the cruise control harness exit and the point where the ballast resistor ? pigtail comes out... I also have two apparent horn connections near each headlight harness connection

you can see the 3 large white plugs that connect a big porton of the harness together. I've removed a bunch of wires so I'm sure that the light green wire did not come off the plug alone before dieting the harness. It has a single conductor black plug w/o a latch. I think it is the parking brake

The other question was the light white two conductor connector that comes off a short 8-10 inch pigtail from the main fuse box. It comes out at the same point as the green two wire connector for the washer pump

Also photos of my tunnel section with the top cut off. Now I can drill and rivet the sides in place and have a nice closed space to arrange the wires... Hopefully I'll be able to get the relays etc on the top for easier access. I trashed the top piece cutting it off, it curled big time. It's hard to cut a stressed 90 degree bend. I'll shear up a new removable top and use riv nuts... I've placed the rear heavy cover that shields the E Brake cables etc... It was bent for tight fit to the aluminum w/o the rubber bubble molding to protect the wires from chafing... doesn't "fit" well... what did others do?

Are we supposed to use that plastic edging that we used for the seat belts around the round wire pass through hole in the front firewall?

black single wire connector w latch.JPG

light 2 conn plug off main fuse.JPG

single lt grn off 3 big plugs.JPG

tunnel 1.JPG

tunnel 2.JPG

tunnel 3.JPG

[RM1SepEx]

So I can't find my steering wheel's clockspring... anyone got one cheap, I'm not using the airbag but it looks like I need it for my cruise control connections? Am I correct??? And if you go to an aftermarket wheel what are people doing with their wiper and blinker control stalks, cruise stalk?

Am I the only one planning on keeping the cruise control?

[metalmaker12]

The green black single wire to the slip over style plug looks like the e brake, plus there does not seem to be any other single gb single wires thAt end like that from my research. Also if it comes from the section you are mentioning it is in the right location to be that wire . I am not running cruise and yes you need a click spring. I don't really need mine, i am running a seperate horn setup, so if your patient I will send you it.

[metalmaker12]

I haven't bought a steering wheel yet cause it is always the last thing I put on with the winshield

[RM1SepEx]

just stopped for the night, made great progress on the wiring etc...

I found that with some judicious wire tracing and a couple cuts and resolder joints you can juggle some of the wires routing to make it much cleaner and reduce the need to extend wires.

My yellow starter wire is plenty long as is my pigtail for the wipers.

If you lay it out carefully and untwist and separate the different sections it actually starts cleaning up pretty well. I think my modification of the tunnel makes it much easier to tuck the wires into the tunnel. I have several of the remote grounds that exist that can be grouped together and grounded inside the tunnel. All of the lighting ends up in one set of pigtails, and there are 3 connections to the transaxle and final CAT to lengthen and route back. I'm going to go down the left side along with the wires to my tail lights etc...

I may cut off some more wire bundle sheathing to free up some addl wire for the brake and other "control" wires in the front. I might get them to run "cleaner" and avoid making them longer yet!

I'll have more photos tomorrow afternoon, If I can find my GoPro's charger I might get a short walk around video done up too.

Chris, the wire in question looks like a pale green with no stripe. I do remember having a wire labeled for the e brake but the tape must have been ripped off... I hope that this is the right one.

I'll hook up the throttle tomorrow, almost everything is plugged in, perhaps I'll be able to attempt starting my little beast this week.

Bottom line: using the stock wiring doesn't look to be that intimidating... and it was my only real concern with the build. hopefully I won't have some sort of unusual problem but it's pretty much plug them in where you unhooked them and strip out what you don't want. I think that w/o stripping unneeded circuits the tunnel would be very full!

I did notice a brake line leak! nice puddle under one of my calipers... looks like I need to play with the left rear line again!

I'll be able to mount the ECU and the cruise control unit over the low portion of the gas tank on the right side...

No ideas on my other connectors in question??? Can someone check their harness please?

[metalmaker12]

Straight green for e brake correct , sorry for the confusion. The two small plugs under the main fuse box( green and tanish) is your question correct?

[RM1SepEx]

Straight green for e brake correct , sorry for the confusion. The two small plugs under the main fuse box( green and tanish) is your question correct?

Thanks re confirming the ebrake! yes the other two questions are:

Yes Chris, the light white or tan two conductor connector that comes off a short 8-10 inch pigtail from the main fuse box. It comes out at the same point as the green two wire connector for the washer pump.

I also have a horn plugged into a single conductor black plug with a latch, it connects to the harness at the cruise control harness exit and the point where the ballast resistor ? pigtail comes out... the connector and latch match. It appears that I never detached it from the harness. I also have two apparent horn connections near each headlight harness connection. If I assume this horn is wrong, what goes here?

Note to self: You must document/label better when you are ripping apart the donor. Even more important when you are doing it a year ahead of kit release!

I found a couple others out front, I'll take photos of those this morning after I get better light...