RM1Sepex Build Thread

[Mechie3]

I put tape all on the connectors and labeled it. I bit myself in the but when it came to labeling the large suspension bolts. Told myself "ehh, I nkow what these look like". Derp!

[RM1SepEx]

tape... came... OFF ... sheepish grin

[VD2021]

I would expect someone with a service manual could identify those fairly quickly for you.

[RM1SepEx]

I expect someone with a WRX could easily too... :-)

The service manual route isn't that easy. The next person to get to the wire harness or someone with theirs in a box can ID my taped "issues" easily

so I took the time to document what you end up with mbefore I make extensions:


wipers and brake res, long enough now to reach photo 1
wipers and brake res.JPG

what is this white plug for? comes out of the root pigtail where this relay box connects (1 foot away?) photo 2
white plug.JPG

tunnel shot w wires tucked in photo 3
tunnel 4.JPG

trans and final cat plugs to extend photo 4
trans and final cat.JPG

Tail lights pigtail, not sure what will need to be done until body is mounted photo 5
tail lights.JPG

odb2 and clutch and brake plugs photo 6
odb2 clutch brake.JPG

head lights, fog lights and horns see thumbnail

fuel pump and sender wiring to solder to provided hardware photo 8

fuel pump.JPG









What is the PN for the aluminum piece that covers the flex tubing at the dead pedal? I can't find them! photo 7
corner space al.JPG

[fateo66]

I expect someone with a WRX could easily too... :-)

The service manual route isn't that easy. The next person to get to the wire harness or someone with theirs in a box can ID my taped "issues" easily

so I took the time to document what you end up with mbefore I make extensions:


what is this white plug for? comes out of the root pigtail where this relay box connects (1 foot away?) photo 2
white plug.JPG

The white plug is used for diagnostics and re-flashing the ECU

But you will want to unplug those green "test" connectors or else your car will be in limp mode, which makes your fans go crazy and limits your power.

[RM1SepEx]

The white plug is used for diagnostics and re-flashing the ECU

But you will want to unplug those green "test" connectors or else your car will be in limp mode, which makes your fans go crazy and limits your power.

mucho gracias!!!

they were unplugged and they just looked like they went together, no wonder I didn't label them!

I'll arrange for easy access to all 3 under the dash!

love your build, some serious Superbaru knowledge!

I'm an old fart that's more comfortable with a Japenese two stroke, or an old V8! Thanks for the help... Any ideas on my other two questionable plugs? I'm getting close, going back at it with the shrink tubing and solder this afternoon.

[Mechie3]

I had a japanese two stroke. It pissed me off too much so I went with an Austrian (I think) 2 stroke. :lol:

[RM1SepEx]

Right now I have three Yamaha RD350B 1973-1975 bikes, 3 Yamaha KT100 kart engines, 1 PRD RK100 kart engine and a Rotax DD2 from Austria

I run 1/2 synthetic 1/2 caster oil... on the back of my RM1DD2 I have a happy bunny cartoon, passing gas, "My exhaust smells better than yours!" Can't beat the power deliver of a 2 stroke on the pipe. 2 years ago at Loring we exceeded the Digitron's RPM limit... I called to ask why it was displaying dashes... RPM in excess of 20,000 ! the DD2 makes power at low RPM, only 12,000 by a 34 HP kart is exhillerating. Kind of like your FMod with the Rotax and yes it is Austrian, they make a sweet, reliable motor. Have crankcase seal problems on the old Kawasaki 440? We did on our Red Devil FMod

[icky]

On the test mode connector, I would splice an easy to reach swich, assuming that your using a factory ecu with that harness.

[fateo66]

I updated the above post with ID of the photos where I had questions

here are some more...
I have a horn plugged into a single conductor black plug with a latch, it connects to the harness at the cruise control harness exit and the point where the ballast resistor ? pigtail comes out... I also have two apparent horn connections near each headlight harness connection

you can see the 3 large white plugs that connect a big porton of the harness together. I've removed a bunch of wires so I'm sure that the light green wire did not come off the plug alone before dieting the harness. It has a single conductor black plug w/o a latch. I think it is the parking brake

The other question was the light white two conductor connector that comes off a short 8-10 inch pigtail from the main fuse box. It comes out at the same point as the green two wire connector for the washer pump

Also photos of my tunnel section with the top cut off. Now I can drill and rivet the sides in place and have a nice closed space to arrange the wires... Hopefully I'll be able to get the relays etc on the top for easier access. I trashed the top piece cutting it off, it curled big time. It's hard to cut a stressed 90 degree bend. I'll shear up a new removable top and use riv nuts... I've placed the rear heavy cover that shields the E Brake cables etc... It was bent for tight fit to the aluminum w/o the rubber bubble molding to protect the wires from chafing... doesn't "fit" well... what did others do?

Are we supposed to use that plastic edging that we used for the seat belts around the round wire pass through hole in the front firewall?

Attachment 21986

Attachment 21987

Attachment 21988

mucho gracias!!!

they were unplugged and they just looked like they went together, no wonder I didn't label them!

I'll arrange for easy access to all 3 under the dash!

love your build, some serious Superbaru knowledge!

I'm an old fart that's more comfortable with a Japenese two stroke, or an old V8! Thanks for the help... Any ideas on my other two questionable plugs? I'm getting close, going back at it with the shrink tubing and solder this afternoon.

Perhaps I missed them, were these the other plugs you were referring too?

I'm a little confused as to what you are referring to in the first picture but that horn that has one wire coming out of it is for the alarm system.

The white connector is for a second (rear) windshield pump ...Or if you want a little extra free power it can become an intercooler sprayer...

The last wire is for your e-brake

[RM1SepEx]

Thank you... Makes sense now to have 3 horns! Add that to the extra pump connector (was obviously unused, it is full of rubberized crap) I'm now all set on connections.

If you look at the tunnel those 3 connectors are easy to access by the open end by your feet at the gas pedal end. I bought some illuminated round panel switches... could be easy to implement

God, I love this forum! :-)

[metalmaker12]

Glad we could all help, your getting there Dan

[RM1SepEx]

It's too bad my daughter keeps breaking the lawn tractor... carb work again yesterday! I've repaired the deck(s) 4 times this summer! Life in general takes up too much time.

I received another FedX tracking # yesterday! Seat rails and CV straps?

[RM1SepEx]

Anyone else planning on using the stock seats? Did you look at the update that they sent re new seat rails?

Bottom line, they don't fit either. The space is 21 1/4 long 3 of the rails are 23+ long!

They raise the stock seats HIGHER!

Driver's seat shown, left side of seat 1 inch higher than the right (tilted towards the center of the car?)

Will work with Tech support tomorrow!

Nice 80 degree day, Hawaiian shirt, convertible, going out to dinner!

seat 2.JPGseat 1.JPG

[nkw8181]

Maybe a dumb question but maybe there is some small deference in the way seats mount on different year models? This would account for some things I would think.

Nolan

[Mechie3]

2 of the rails could be 23" long if you mounted to the left/right running bars. The inside parts would interfere with the angled bar in front of the seat and can't be moved farther back due to the firewall.

[RM1SepEx]

Maybe a dumb question but maybe there is some small deference in the way seats mount on different year models? This would account for some things I would think.

Nolan

they have different mounts and mountuing for 2002-2005 and 2006-2007 naturally we found out with the original set of mounts my 05 has the 06-07 seats!

note that the brackets extend past the seats, the seat cushion gets smooshed by that diagonal tube at the front of the space for the seats. Those brackets are about 23 inches long... the seat space is 21 1/4 long

[RM1SepEx]

News flash... From Tony Z

The rails are longer to make them usable with the tall guy tank option, for us mere average sized guys we need to cut them off. The left side of the driver's seat is taller because that is what it took to get the seat level, the originals are boat anchors (as far as stock seats are concerned)

The updated instructions are incomplete and need new photos, they are working on it...

[Mechie3]

Here's a good pic to explain. These aluminum pieces were cut to 21" to test fit before cutting to final size. You can see there is no room to grow an additional 2" on the innermost piece. It already touches the firewall and the angled brace. The outer piece would be able to go forward/back more but there's nothing there.

[Silvertop]

Anyone else planning on using the stock seats? Did you look at the update that they sent re new seat rails?

Bottom line, they don't fit either. The space is 21 1/4 long 3 of the rails are 23+ long!

They raise the stock seats HIGHER!

Driver's seat shown, left side of seat 1 inch higher than the right (tilted towards the center of the car?)

Will work with Tech support tomorrow!

Nice 80 degree day, Hawaiian shirt, convertible, going out to dinner!

seat 2.JPGseat 1.JPG

It has been my plan from the beginning to use the stock seats, though I have to admit that I am wavering. The primary issue for me is seat height, and brackets that raise the seat even higher are ominous. I need to make sure that the final height allows me to pass the broomstick rule. A secondary concern is that I'm considering the desirability of being able to use 5-6 point competition belts, which precludes the use of the stock seats (no submarine belt slot). But final seat height is paramount. I'll be watching with interest to see how this plays out............

[RM1SepEx]

How tall are you?

[longislandwrx]

maybe they can be mounted more to the outside and slipped UNDER the brace?

[RM1SepEx]

I'll be trying them later today... I think anyone who is tall will be making their own mounts and removing foam from the seat area...

I just finished my wire extensions except for the front lights, fan and horns and the rear lights and I'm almost ready to turn the key for the first time... Everything is plugged in...

I'm not sure that I can wind down enough for my afternoon nap today! Can't attempt start until I finish up my rear trans plate allowing me to put oil in the transmission. I need to get over to a friend's and powder coat it tomorrow.

Dash Gauges.JPG

Powers up!

I have only one light plugged in, one of the license plate lights, and it is on even with the key out of the car...

Hey Chris, time for my shots???? :-)

[RM1SepEx]

So here goes, new seat rails, 05 WRX donor (note my seats are 06-07 NOT early seats Apparently they changed mid year)

I don't think anyone over 5'10" will be able to use an unmodiofioed stock 06-07 WRX seat

I've included 3 photos, front view, seat pan vs diagonal brace and under seat clearance.

I will attempt to get them to lower the seat rails or I'll make my own. It can be lowered by a full inch.

I cut off about 3 inches from the seat rails. The seat now just barely fits into the space. The seat tilt mechanism is touching the rear bulkhead, the front pad isn't compressed vs the diagonal as it was with the older brackets. IT would be possible to move the seat forward, perhaps an inch, at this seat height.

Seat pan location.JPG

Seat front.JPG

under seat clearance.JPG

[longislandwrx]

I have only one light plugged in, one of the license plate lights, and it is on even with the key out of the car...

Make sure you didn't hit the parking light switch/aka the battery drain switch on top of the column.

[metalmaker12]

Sounds like the parking light switch bro

[RM1SepEx]

I'll check the parking switch, which way is on? I did have the hazards on when I turned the key too.

Bolted up my header today... too damn low! 2 1/2 inches below the frame! UGH

spent the AM powder coating my trans cover and custom aluminum wheel centers. I post some photos after the laser work is done.

[Samiam1017]

Dan. What headers did you get again? Can you get us a measurement from the top oh the flange to the lowest point of the header

[longislandwrx]

Forward. You'll see red paint if its on.

[RM1SepEx]

I lied... sorry, only 2 inches below the frame... the oil pan sits about 1/2 to 3/4 below the frame. I'll have to look up the mfg. I bought it from AJW a year ago... Now that they are mounted it's hard to get that measurement for you but you can measure your motor and figure it out... depth from exhaust flange to bottom of oil pan m(lowest at the drain of course and add 1 1/2 inches.

I looked up my old information, FMS Ceramic coated, 1 piece, incl catless up pipe with flex in up pipe

DSCF0038.JPG

DSCF0039.JPG

BTW I would NOT buy FMS product in the future, they shipped it to me direct and it was chipped/damaged in shipment. FMS would NOT stand behind their product and offered me $10 for the damage. Thankfully AJW did make it right and took care of me to my satisfaction, they are a stand up company.

[RM1SepEx]

I crawled underneath this morning... Chad, you asked about the oil pan vs frame. I was correct, the pan's flat section is even with the lower frame rails (the front section with the pan under your butt and legs. The oil drain sticks down 1/2 - 3/4 inch below the frame rails.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks Dan. I should be OK if I don't go off the track backwards

[RM1SepEx]

no problem my day has been very interesting...

A friend shot a deer for me in archery season (buy a tag, shoot as many as you want, just keep buying tags!)

so I need to move the 818 to get access to my electric winch... I throw the tires on and the rear wheel contact the upper trailing arms! I had to move the bushings to the outside to get wheel clearance! with stock 05 WRX wheels and 225 tires...

wow

[C.Plavan]

Just an FYI- I was looking at going with the Killer B header/uppipe. Here is a picture of it installed relative to the stock oil pan. Looks a bit higher than the headers you have.

[RM1SepEx]

That one might have a problem with the frame crossmember... that front most portion of the header where the collector swings back around might hit the frame and will be very close to the gas tank.

I think that you want a header that doesn't extend past the front of the motor/timing belt cover etc...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

no problem my day has been very interesting...

A friend shot a deer for me in archery season (buy a tag, shoot as many as you want, just keep buying tags!)

so I need to move the 818 to get access to my electric winch... I throw the tires on and the rear wheel contact the upper trailing arms! I had to move the bushings to the outside to get wheel clearance! with stock 05 WRX wheels and 225 tires...

wow

During my glider test I had 16" x 6.5" x 55mm offset NA stock rims with 225/45-16 tires.
I had 3/8" clearance at the rim and 3/8" at the tire to the upper control arm.
If you want to go to wider rims or tires you must also go to less offset or spacers.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

I had a busy day...

skinned and quartered a small doe
put the wheels on for the first time
Installed the rest of the header to turbo, the intercooler, installed my modified turbo coolant expansion tank

exp tank 1.JPG

exp tank 2.JPG

IC back.JPG

IC Side.JPG

lft side view.JPG

rear view camber.JPG

rt side view.JPG

tire clearance.JPG

note the tire clearance, 225 x 55 x 16 tires on stock 05 wrx rims, I had to move the trailing arm spacers to both on the outside of the hiem joint for clearance

I'm concerned about rear camber. It looks like I have too much and I'm not comfortable extending the upper transverse links much further. My upper transverse links are 6 inches long.

I'm also concerned about the lower rear of the intercooler, it contacts the rear shock tower brace... what will happen when the engine jumps around on the engine mounts?

[Erik W. Treves]

well that is looking very good!

[RM1SepEx]

any thoughts on my rear camber Erik? are your upper transverse links 6 inches long? I'm thinking 7 would be much better, would leave more engaged threads on the hiem joints

[Erik W. Treves]

I just put my camber gauge on there and set it...let me go out and measure it... I think I put 1* or .5* camber in it.