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Thread: Any pricing on wilwood brakes?

  1. #41
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    The not too overkill kit would be the 4pot fronts and either 4pot rears or oem rears.

    the open house S had oem rears because they said the oem rears were actually lighter

    I'd love to see some real numbers from someone who actually measures/installs the rear kit.
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  2. #42
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xusia View Post
    Hey Frank,

    Subaru makes a "not-too-overkill" brake set as well. And they come FREE with your donor WRX!! LOL

    <I know, I know... They are heavy. >
    You got a point! Up to the weight, yes. I should have said "very powerful and good looking", but "not too overkill". lolll
    Frank
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  3. #43
    Senior Member StatGSR's Avatar
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    I hate brake caliper snobs... people need to understand that the right pad can damn near solve all of your problems up until the point were you put too much heat into the system. The only way to find out if you are putting in to much heat is to upgrade your pads put in some decent fluid and go to the track, if you don't boil your brake fluid or over shoot the limits of your pad, you are in good shape and your only out the cost of pads.

    For example, i stop my 2500lb integra with single piston 11inch vented rotor fronts and single piston 10inch solid rotor rears. I currently run Hawk Blues in the front and Axxis Ultimates in the rear, The Hawk is still just an entry level HPDE/Race pad and the Ultimates are nothing more than a performance street pad. I can run 20 minute sessions with hard braking on this setup and still never have any fade issues and i still have why more aggressive pads, that said i have no reason to upgrade pads cause right now i already have way more clamping force than I need and have to worry more about flat spotting a tire than i do cooking my brakes. While the Blue Pad isn't meant to be driven on the street, it is still drivable without swapping pads.
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  4. #44
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bstuke View Post
    Now to get them balanced properly. I suspect more time will be spent getting Dual MC, brackets and such working properly. If there is such a thing yet.
    I also will be fine with the brakes from my 06 donor. I would also to prefer to use the Subaru pedal box and MC. Could a proportioning valve be a viable method of balancing, rather than going to a dual MC?

  5. #45
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    Factory five supplies a Wilwood proportioning valve with the kit.
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  6. #46
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StatGSR View Post
    I hate brake caliper snobs... people need to understand that the right pad can damn near solve all of your problems up until the point were you put too much heat into the system. The only way to find out if you are putting in to much heat is to upgrade your pads put in some decent fluid and go to the track, if you don't boil your brake fluid or over shoot the limits of your pad, you are in good shape and your only out the cost of pads.

    For example, i stop my 2500lb integra with single piston 11inch vented rotor fronts and single piston 10inch solid rotor rears. I currently run Hawk Blues in the front and Axxis Ultimates in the rear, The Hawk is still just an entry level HPDE/Race pad and the Ultimates are nothing more than a performance street pad. I can run 20 minute sessions with hard braking on this setup and still never have any fade issues and i still have why more aggressive pads, that said i have no reason to upgrade pads cause right now i already have way more clamping force than I need and have to worry more about flat spotting a tire than i do cooking my brakes. While the Blue Pad isn't meant to be driven on the street, it is still drivable without swapping pads.
    glad this works for you. Think they'd hold up in a longer race though?
    I don't think anyone here is being a snob though. No one mentioned putting $6000 endless brakes on a hard parked stanced vw. People are building track cars here
    Last edited by longislandwrx; 07-09-2013 at 05:56 AM.
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  7. #47
    818 Junkie... bstuke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wleehendrick View Post
    I also will be fine with the brakes from my 06 donor. I would also to prefer to use the Subaru pedal box and MC. Could a proportioning valve be a viable method of balancing, rather than going to a dual MC?
    What Wayne said.
    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Presley View Post
    Factory five supplies a Wilwood proportioning valve with the kit.
    I suspected as much.. I still would rather at least have separate masters, and the ability to choose the correct size based on the caliper. Then use a balance bar and bias adjuster. It just plain old works better. I bet the bracket would identical to what JG has in the Challenge Car..
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  8. #48
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Presley View Post
    Factory five supplies a Wilwood proportioning valve with the kit.
    Good to know, thanks! I figured FFR had it covered.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    glad this works for you. Think they'd hold up in a
    I don't think anyone here is being a snob though. No one mentioned putting $6000 endless brakes on a hard parked stanced vw. People are building track cars here
    Here are the calipers off one of the Lotus that use 11.25" rotors F&R, car weighs 2150 with me in it. Even at Road Atlanta where you go from 105 to 65 then 130 to 50 every lap with the anitlocks going off (Hoosier A6's), tells me I have enough raw braking power. I have yet to fade the brakes which tells me I have enough thermal capacity. So I firmly believe the 12"/12" rotor 4 piston Wilwoods are going to be plenty of brake package for anything short of 500 RWHP 818's running slicks. And the stock WRX brake set up with Hawk/Porterfield/CarboTech pads will be plenty for any street car and light track use.




    Last edited by Wayne Presley; 07-08-2013 at 03:23 PM.
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  10. #50
    818 Junkie... bstuke's Avatar
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    Is it me or do the front caliper look like PBR's that go on a Roadster, and the back caliper looks like the same rotor in the 11.65 rear Mustang GT Ford Racing kit?
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  11. #51
    Senior Member shinn497's Avatar
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    I thought the advantage of wilwood brakes is that they are lighter. Unsprung weight can be very important.

  12. #52
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Presley View Post
    Here are the calipers off one of the Lotus that use 11.25" rotors F&R, car weighs 2150 with me in it. Even at Road Atlanta where you go from 105 to 65 then 130 to 50 every lap with the anitlocks going off (Hoosier A6's), tells me I have enough raw braking power. I have yet to fade the brakes which tells me I have enough thermal capacity. So I firmly believe the 12"/12" rotor 4 piston Wilwoods are going to be plenty of brake package for anything short of 500 RWHP 818's running slicks. And the stock WRX brake set up with Hawk/Porterfield/CarboTech pads will be plenty for any street car and light track use.
    I agree with this, I too think 6 pots are overkill, I was just saying if a few people get them I wouldn't call that being a brake snob.
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  13. #53
    Senior Member StatGSR's Avatar
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    ^ The only reason i was so harsh is because i find it hilarious how many people are willing to spend $1000-3000 on "name brand" brake kits, just to run a crappy pad compound in them. And then they will think they are the best thing ever since the only thing they ever knew before was a stock caliper with a crappy pad compound in them.... If they spend and hour and educate themselves on different pads, try some things out in real life, they will be shocked at how much stopping power you can get for $400-500 bux, heck maybe even less. If this is going to be a "track car" the owner should really do themselves a favor and learn a thing or two pads before showing up, you don't need facy brakes on a track car, you just need brakes that work time after time, and from a reliability standpoint, very few options are going to beat out OEM.

    I understand pedal feel can be improved with nicer calipers, but as far as i'm concerned, the best thing about 4 pots in general is that is a little quicker and easier to change pads, but unless you swap out every time you go to the track, it's not all that much quicker than swapping them out on a sliding caliper, just a little easier to avoid getting burnt if you are doing it while they are hot.
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  14. #54
    DH's mortal avatar CNGreen's Avatar
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  15. #55
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Right on. A set of hawks and some quality brake fluid and the WRX stops like a champ but will still fade after some hard driving. spend another $120 on an h6 upgrade and you can spend a lot lore time on the track. They will still fade though if pushed hard and the dust boots will burn up pretty quick.

    On a much lighter car this may be all you need though.

    the Wilwoods really appeal to me because the last time I checked they themselves made over 8 pads for them. and I'm sure there are a ton more that fit. The weight savings is also huge. Pad changes as you said are nice too.
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  16. #56
    Senior Member D2W's Avatar
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    Does anybody know the actual weights of the two different caliper/rotor combo's of the WRX vs the wilwood brake option. I'm curious just how much weight can be saved.
    I can do anything with enough time and money.

  17. #57
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    OEM front brakes 2-pot or 4-pot are about 50-55 lbs

    Wilwood Front 4-Pot Brakes 31lbs

    You will save about 20 lbs of unsprung weight by doing the fronts.

    Not sure about the back weights.
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  18. #58
    Senior Member SkiRideDrive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    OEM front brakes 2-pot or 4-pot are about 50-55 lbs

    Wilwood Front 4-Pot Brakes 31lbs

    You will save about 20 lbs of unsprung weight by doing the fronts.

    Not sure about the back weights.
    Wow. I did not realize it was that substantial.

    It would be awesome if someone could measure the deflection differences between the stock and wilwood calipers. Back in my SAE days the easiest way to test was to put a set amount of pressure on the pedal (the high tech way is to put a bathroom scale between your foot and the brake pedal) and then to have a set of calipers around the caliper to measure its neutral width and then how much it deflects at approximated threshold pressures (how hard you push the pedal to lock up the tires). People are discussing the ability of the brake system to shed heat, but for me another important factor is pedal feel, especially without an antilock system.
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  19. #59
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    For me my #1 criterion is pedal feel. Then braking power and weight, then in 3rd looks.
    Frank
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  20. #60
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    LMK when you are ready to order a set
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  21. #61
    Senior Member DodgyTim's Avatar
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    From the R&T article....
    "The 2006 WRX brakes on this car prove to be more than adequate. Small wonder, as they were designed to stop a car nearly twice as heavy. It’s possible to lock the fronts at any speed if you want to……"
    Also there was no mention of fade in 15 laps.
    I'm going to start with my donor's 2006 standard brakes (with good pads) and see how it goes. Can always spend more money later.....

  22. #62
    Senior Member D2W's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    OEM front brakes 2-pot or 4-pot are about 50-55 lbs

    Wilwood Front 4-Pot Brakes 31lbs

    You will save about 20 lbs of unsprung weight by doing the fronts.

    Not sure about the back weights.
    That is a substantial amount. I see now why FFR had the Wilwood calipers on the 818S at the open house. It will be interesting to see what a true donor build with all the stock parts including the seats will weigh.
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  23. #63
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Presley View Post
    I can get the Wilwood 4 piston 12" front and 4 piston 12.2" rear set ups for $1920, plenty of braking and lighter than the OEM stuff. The 6 piston while pretty is not needed.
    If you want to drop some real coin I can get the StopTech F&R kits for $3850....
    Wayne,

    I'm considering the Wilwood brake package and have a few questions. I'm posting here rather then sending you a PM or email because others might want to know as well.
    1. Does this setup perform better than the best stock WRX setup? (I assume so!)
    2. Is that price for the red, black or either, and does it include shipping?
    3. Any pics of that set up?
    4. What is the emergency/parking brake solution for these? (in other words, can I just connect the factory cable or is there more involved?)
    5. When installing these, what differences are there vs. OEM (i.e. brake lines run, connectors, mounting brackets, etc.)? Is there anything NOT included?

    Thanks!

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