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Looks great!
I like your idea about texturing the firewall. back in shop class we used to use a eraser in a drill press to swirl polish aluminum panels. I've been on the fence about aluminum prep. now the gears are starting to turn.
Your build is looking good already!
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Very exciting. I know you can’t tell from pictures but it looks like the rear roll center is awfully high. But it has to be looked at in conjunction with the front and apparently it does work well.
Keep up updated,
Bill Lomenick
Chotis Bill
I had the rear put all together to fit the bare steel braces, I am blasting them and powdering coating them black this week into next. I don't have the front springs yet with some other back ordered stuff. The rear arms are sitting on jack stands, they sit much lower
Last edited by metalmaker12; 07-29-2013 at 10:57 AM.
Nick (Stickshift84) and I live within 10 minutes of one another and we just blasted all our 818 bare steel pieces to get powder coated, heres a pic of one set photo-60.JPG
Along with fitting up my bare steel parts I assembled the rear coiloversphoto-64.JPG
I also ruff fit my pedal set and brake and clutch masters, I actually used some subaru bolts to give it an OEM feel. my whole build theme will be Subaru Oem photo-66.JPG photo-63.JPGphoto-62.JPGphoto-61.JPG
Looks great!
yours does too Guns!!
Wow, I love seeing all of our clean parts. Just finished them all up and packed them up. To the powdercoaters tomorrow afternoon.
Thanks again for the help with blasting Chris.
I guess I really should start my own build thread, I think it is due.
Originally Posted by Stickshift84
It is all part of the fun! This is a cool experience for us all
Looking Good! I like the OEM fasteners.
Stay tuned, parts coming back from powder, tranny back together with cusco and all FFR parts, motors going in this weekend
Heres some updates, I have the front panels in, column mounted, and brake and clutch pedals mounted, also the front suspension and moving on to rack and rear suspension tonight. tomorrow motor and tranny are going in, heres some quick snaps.
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Metal, your inbox is full again... :-(
Metal. What do you think the best way to attach the motor install? No headers? With headers? Motor /trans sep or together?
Nice. I wish I could powder coat myself. I'd be much farther ahead. Well, that and if my wife stopped coming to the garage every hour asking me to do other things like watch a movie, go shopping, or go to bed. Aint nobody got time for dat!
Zero Decibel Motorsports
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eastwood, powder coat for 100 and an old oven for free from craigslist
I blasted and PC my OEM 16 in wheels, they didn't fit in the ove so we pulled the door off and made an extened door to give 20 x 20 capacity! we used the drawer from under the oven for the inside of the extension and some .050 aluminum for the outer box... single oven donor build... 2 inches between in and outer box filled with fiberglass. heats up fine. All my parts will be done tomorrow except the door frames. We will use an IR lamp to cure those... takes longer in sections. You should see the hot pink wheels on my wife's Miata..
Did you spray can your trans?
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Yea, nick had a hook up for our powder
I would say you should mount the engine and trans connected with the headers removed, it is tight getting under the crossbraces, I will post pics if I can, I think I might be going solo on my engine install. I blasted my tranny case and sprayed it with Kbs high heat silver at around 17psi reduced with Kbs reducer. I like the Kbs stuff for this type of thing. Btw my tranny is spotless inside, and my cusco 1.5 diff should work just like the 818r's cusco. I have been looking at old tune maps and I think I want just around 285-310 whp max for this build.
Very nice! Called it quits at 1am? I guess you ran out of 5 hr energies?
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Or perhaps the 5 Hour Energy ran out on him?!?
I literally fell asleep in my garage around 1am lol, I got a lot done this morning, will post Lata, my beautiful wife and daughter want to go get some sun and maybe a cruise, post Lata
Heres some picsphoto-76.JPGphoto-77.JPGphoto-78.JPG
First Ej207 in a 818 photo-79.JPGphoto-82.JPG
I removed the up-pipe and the headers along with oil filler and coolant tank , which I highly recommend on all, I broke my factory inlet boost bung, I was replacing the inlet so no biggy, but if you want to be careful and your using I would take it off. I had help from my dad line it up. I used so plywood to slide in with the engine hoist and it worked well
Metal I accidentally posted this on a different thread but I ment to post here for you. Can you get me the widest width of your gocart. I want to see if I can fit it thru my basement doors.
Yea hold up, about 65-66 inches or so
So I put my bushings in the right way. Funny thing is no cutting gussets, no oblong holes, just a piece of 2x4,couple screw clamps, vis clamps, pry bar and some redneck engineering and poof they fit right in, well I did drill the holes out 1-2 drill sizes bigger( I could not read the drill bit size and my mic is at my dads) ,and it is not an easy task, but somehow I did it just fine.
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"After the bushing re-fit of 2013" I assembled my front end, also my turbo coolant tank is getting a custom bracket soon
photo-95.JPGphoto-93.JPGphoto-94.JPG
night folks
Do your front control arms move freely? I didn't have to pry mine open like RM1, but I did have to slot the steel on the driver side, slot the aluminum on the passenger side, trim 1/2" of gusset on the driver side and 1/8" of gusset on the passenger side. They're both even within 1/32" and rotate freely. The angle of the bushings isn't quite the same though, though it's hard to tell just eyeballing it.
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My holes lined up with the bushing pretty good before i put the arm together.They would move more freely if I loosened the rear bolt on the back of the bushing, but once I tightened them up they got tighter. The drivers went in pretty easy, the passengers was more of a pain. The reason we have to cut the gusset ( though i somehow did not)it seem is for install clearance so you can slide the arm rearward, but once it is set in the front hole it seem to actually have a tenth of clearance from the gusset, at least on my frame. I would like the arm to maybe be more free, but it moves and I also don't want it to move out of place every time I hit a bump or something. I think I am good and it is safe. Yea the angle might be a very slight difference if any, but Noting i am going to worry about, I can't see to much if a difference.
Last edited by metalmaker12; 08-10-2013 at 06:49 AM.
My kit arrives next week, so I don't have any fitting knowledge yet!
However my donor was an 06 with a left LCA damaged. I got a replacement which had a completely different bushing/mounting pivot. I don't know what vehicle it came from.
The black one is my 06 part.
The difference is enormous!
Difference3.jpgDifference1.jpgDifference2.jpg
That's a wagon one, you need two of the same arms and bushings, or maybe just the bushing if the arms are the same. Problem is idk if you can just get that bushing.
AWESOME WORK. Any backordered parts holding you back?
I am really digging the contrast of the calipers. I was going to leave mine black but I'm thinking I'll end up going rally yellow like the new WRX concept
I'm also glad I ordered the msi trailing arms, with all those beautiful tubular links, those oem ones just don't cut the mustard.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
As some of you may know, there is a slight clearance issue with some headers on the drivers side engine mount. I trimmed 1/4 off the forward edge and it gave me the desired clearance. I have oem Jdm equal length headers.
photo-96.JPG Before
photo-97.JPGphoto-99.JPG After, but not a final trim yet, was just checking clearance.
photo-98.JPG headers
photo-100.JPG photo-102.JPGfinal trim, and some chassis paint
Longisland, thanks man, yea I like contrast on everything and the kawasaki green powder pops, yellow is cool too
That green is making my miss my zx7r right about now. Loving your build. Quick question for any of the current builders. How are you guys running the brake lines?
Along the drivers side frame, I will be running my set this week.
Headers sprayed with KBS High heat ceramicphoto-110.JPGphoto-109.JPG
Swapped down to a normal size Koyo from this monsterphoto-108.JPG to thisphoto-105.JPG
Heres the clearness now,photo-106.JPG before it was hitting rack and I would have had to mod the whole setup.
Heres my pedal, with gas pedal semi installedphoto-107.JPG
Heres my fuel pump setup and tank, btw tank fit no problem photo-104.JPGphoto-103.JPGphoto-103.JPG
More to come tomorrow
Looking great Metalmaker!
Are you planning to use the ABS?
Looking good! Do you have to have the exhaust off of the engine/trans to install in the chassis? Also that fuel tank looks a lot like a 33 tank to me.
FFR-ADV: thanks, and no I have no plans of using Abs, I deleted it from my harness.
Wallace: I removed the up pipe and headers for my install and I highly recommend that. It is a 33 tank.
Looking good, REAL good!
You better warm up your gtm! Thanks man, hope to meet up soon
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