King's MK4 Coyote Build

[Tom Mauldin]

Very nice work!!

[2bking]

Thanks Tom!

It's been awhile since my last post and I have been busy doing a lot of little stuff that doesn't show much. One of the last frame mods was to move a cross member on the top of the transmission tunnel to make room for the mid shifter. Because one end of the tube that needed moving joins with two others at acute angles, it was going to be hard to reweld that joint if I completely cut the tube out so I opted for a small dog leg on that end. I Vee notched the tube at the dog leg location and cut through the welds at the other end. After several iterations of trimming, I clamped the tube into its new location and my son offered to do the welding so I let him and took the picture of the action.
DSCF4379d.jpg

After a little grinding and paint, it looks like this:
DSCF4382d.jpg

I spent a lot of time planning the brake and fuel line routing because my paths were going to be different with the ABS Module location I had chosen. For the brake line I decided to get the 20' roll of 3/16" stainless tubing to keep from using splice connections on the long runs. I had read on the forums where a lot of builders were opting for 3/8" for the main fuel line so ordered that also as the kit came with 5/16". I tried the clothes hanger wire for making patterns but found it to be too wimpy. I sacrificed one of the 60" brake lines that came with the kit for pattern making and it worked out well. It was soft enough to unbend and rebend as needed for the various patterns and very stiff for holding shape. I started out using the clamps supplied with the kit but they held the tubing off the frame so I ordered the ones shown from Summit Racing and installed rev-nuts to attach them using screws. Here are pictures of the front brake lines:
DSCF4399d.jpg DSCF4384d.jpg DSCF4386d.jpg DSCF4387d.jpg DSCF4388d.jpg DSCF4389d.jpg DSCF4398d.jpg

[2bking]

I wanted to route the wiring and lines through the transmission tunnel and was aware of the closeness of the driveshaft at the back end and dangers of a broken U-joint allowing the shaft to flop and break stuff. I made a guard from steel bar, powder coated it, and bolted it the frame using 1/4-20 rev-nuts. It makes a channel for the lines and wire and protects them from the driveshaft. I missed pictures of the fab but here it is with the lines and wiring passing through.
DSCF4381a.jpg

When I started to unroll the 3/8" fuel line, I realized it was huge compared to the line coming out of the fuel tank. I did some Google searching and found a fuel line sizing calculator. The calculator showed the 3/8" line wasn't necessary and a 5/16" line had plenty of margin during full flow conditions. It also showed that a 1/4" return line was sufficient. I decided to make life easy and used the lines and fittings that came with the kit. My tunnel routing was perfect for the 60" lines from the kit by not requiring splices. I made the line clamps using some stainless sheet sheared to 1/2" wide and attached using the #8 rev-nuts.
Here are pictures of the rear brake and fuel lines:
DSCF4402d.jpg DSCF4401d.jpg DSCF4400d.jpg DSCF4391d.jpg DSCF4390d.jpg DSCF4381d.jpg DSCF4380d.jpg

[DaleG]

You do fine work; impressive.

[2bking]

Thanks Dale, I'm not as far along as you but I make a little progress every week. It's all the deviations from the manual that slows me down; just getting the right fittings to hook lines together sometimes takes a week.

And speaking of fittings and lines, I plumbed the ABS module and fuel pressure regulator. The fuel lines coming through the tunnel places the exit just below the regulator which is almost in line with the fuel rail connection on the motor, a good thing. To make the connections and bends, I needed more fittings. I keep a Summit Racing cart full of needed items and when the total reaches $100, the free shipping mark, I check out. It's amazing how quick I can hit $100 just in fittings. The 10mm and 12mm adapter fittings for the ABS module were hard to accurately identify and the 12mm fitting hard to find. Another fitting I couldn't find locally was the 45* 1/8 pipe to tilt the pressure gauge for easier viewing. Here are pictures of the ABS Module and pressure regulator:
DSCF4383d.jpg

Trying to keep the brake and clutch lines to exit at one location and have a hole large enough for them to pass through, led me to build a melamine plastic pass-through block that attaches to the sheet metal with screws. It's split horizontally into two pieces and clamped together by the screws across the top and attaches with the two diagonally placed screws to rev-nuts in the sheet metal. Here's a bad close-up view but the best I have now:
DSCF4383c.jpg

The clutch line runs down to the diagonal sq. tube that goes between the firewall upright and the 4" frame tube. That location is within 10" of my slave cylinder location. I need more fittings and hose, that are on order, to complete the connection. The tubing from the MCs were fairly straight forward but making them align with each other was a challenge. After a few rebends, I decided this was good enough; it will be hidden inside the foot box when the cover is on. I bought the Eastwood flaring tool and used it for all flaring on both the stainless and kit lines and never had a bad flare. The kit lines were much easier to flare than the stainless:
DSCF4394d.jpgDSCF4396d.jpg

I'm now working on mounting the power steering pump and AC compressor to the engine. I bought an expensive TurnKey kit (sometimes you don't get what you pay for) for mounting both that turned out not to have any attributes but bling. I'll post more about that later.

[DaleG]

Your installs are so clean and well thought out. Making notes for the next build, or rebuild when/if I get bored. Turnkey kit for PS/AC; I used the Frontrunner and so far, so good.

[2bking]

Anyone doing a Coyote build and looking for a after market solution for mounting the AC Compressor and PS Pump needs to consider anything but Turn Key. The engineering, if there was any, sucks. I tried to return it to no avail so I am using the parts and making my own mounting brackets. It was $1800 of bling, looked good in the pictures, and my bad for not doing more searching. I should have gotten the Front Runner but didn't know the TurnKey was such a disaster. I purchased it as a M-8600-M50PSAC front drive kit (a Turn Key Product) from Ford Racing Parts Direct. I discovered the problems when I installed the kit on my engine. I tried to return it but Ford Racing Parts Direct said because it had been installed- no refund! They didn't offer any warranty either.

Here are the problems listed in approximate order of severity:

1. The tensioner is in the wrong place. The load in the AC compressor an PS tend to unload the tensioner to allow belt slippage. In other words, it on the drive section of the belt, not the slack section.

2. The drive pulley being on the water pump is loading the water pump bearing by extending the overturning moment in the bearings and tends to bend the pump shaft. This pulley is about three inches forward of the pump bearing. I fear it will lead to premature water pump bearing failure or shaft breaking from fatigue. The water pump is seeing the induced loads from both belts.

3. The weight of the pulley that attaches to the water pump pulley is excessive (think almost solid aluminum, no weight removal on back side) to achieve the bling thus increases the rotating mass. This pulley may have twice or more the rotating mass of the factory water pump pulley. The other billet pulleys have the same issue. The pulley that came with my kit does not run true. It has about .005-.008 wobble TIR measured at the outer lip on the belt groove which I could see before measuring it.

4. The total rotating mass on the AC/PS drive belt is reflected to the tensioner on the alternator belt which can lead to that belt to slip/jump the pulleys or just wear out faster.

5. The belt cannot be installed without removing the water pump pulley to get the belt on the tensioner. I was successful in installing the belt using a 2.75 diameter tensioner pulley without removing the pulley on the water pump. I could not do it using the 3.00 diameter pulley that came with the kit. This isn't a show stopper but a drive system with a spring loaded tensioner should be designed to allow the belt to be installed without removing parts.

I emailed Turn Key to make sure I wasn't looking at something wrong and got one word responses for answers to my questions. They basically said they had sold over two hundred units and hadn't had any issues. I'm thinking the issues that are inherent in the design may not show up for awhile and may not be recognized as due to a faulty design.

I've converted the parts into a design much like the FrontRunner but a little different. I post more when I'm finished.

[2bking]

The Turn Key Kit as purchased was to be installed like this.
TurnKey1.jpg TurnKey2.jpg

The parts that came with the kit are pictured below:
DSCF4405d.jpg

At one point I thought I was being too critical of the design but I just couldn't put the system on my engine knowing the drive had some really bad engineering. The Achilles heel was the fact it was using the water pump for the input with a very heavy pulley and the load there was extended past the end of the pump shaft. I attempted to fix the heavy pulley by replacing it with the ford water pump pulley just like the one on the engine and mounting them back to back. I cut down the spacers to align the other pulleys with the new one. This also shortened the load path to the pump shaft. I was not satisfied with the results as it seemed to only fix about 20% of the problems. I had two options left, either buy another drive kit or design a new drive system using the parts from the Turn Key Kit. The Front Runner design looked to be ideal and well thought out and it used the same components that were in the Turn Key Kit. I tried to purchase the Front Runner mounting brackets but they only available in the complete kit.

I have the Ford Racing Coyote Engine CAD file so designing a different drive system wasn't going to be all that difficult. The PS pump has to be driven in the correct direction to work. I achieved the correct rotation by placing the pump with the pulley facing the engine and driving it off the back side of the belt. The crank shaft pulley has places for two drive belts with only the outer one being used for driving the water pump and alternator. The inner one is used to drive the factory AC compressor only. Since I needed to drive the PS pump also, the factory set up would need to be modified. I used the Front Runner design as a starting point and proceeded to design brackets that I could make with my mill and lathe using materials I had available. The right side of the engine has a machined post for mounting an idler pulley and designed in clearance for the belt between it and the crankshaft pulley that would come in handy for simplifying the work. The Front Runner used that pulley and has a couple of mounting parts that were CNC machined that were too complicated for me to duplicate. These parts also incorporated the belt tensioner mount so I had to deleted the tensioner. The correct place for the tensioner is between the last driven pulley and the crank pulley and space is very tight so there are not many options for mounting it. The parts I used from the Turn Key Kit are shown below:
DSCF4412d.jpg

I designed and made these parts:
DSCF4410d.jpg

ProE did a perfect job of determining the serpentine belt length. I powder coated the parts black and assembled them to the engine. All the mounting bolts are 8-1.25mm so I had to buy the correct length hardware. The engine had one mounting point that had to be drilled and tapped. The CAD file was used to determine hole patterns and it proved to be accurate. I had to purchase a banjo fitting for the input to the PS pump and replumb the hose from the reservoir to the pump. The reservoir mounting was not changed. The completed and installed drive is shown below:
DSCF4424d.jpg DSCF4425d.jpg DSCF4426d.jpg

I am pleased with the results although I wasn't able to fit the belt tensioner in the design. I don't think it will be a problem as the factory AC Compressor mount doesn't use a tensioner either. I can put the Turn Key problem behind me now and move on with the build.

[2bking]

I'm getting the "need to make" parts done so I know where everything will mount/route before I hang sheet metal. In that list are: front ABS sensor mounts, hydraulic clutch, engine PCM, and brake reservoir. I don't have a donor and the front spindles are different so I'm sure I can't buy the factory mounts. The ABS sensor needs to be over the top of the tone ring and almost touching it so there is only one area where it can be placed. Without welding and machining on the spindle parts, there is only one bolt in that area for use to mount a bracket. After figuring all that out, a little measuring with calipers pretty much nailed down the bracket shape and dimensions. The one variable is the exposure of the sensor over the tone ring. Since I don't know that exactly, I made a spacer that can be used for adjustment. The parts are shown here before and after powder coating. I'll get them installed later this week.
DSCF4438d.jpg DSCF4439d.jpg

The next on the list is the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder. I originally intended to use an internal one but after reading the posts about their reliability and difficulties associated with fixing/replacing, I changed the plan to an external one. This turned out to be a little more difficult because I couldn't buy a factory bolt up kit for the parts I have. After searching through endless number of slave candidates, I picked a Nissan one with a 3/4 bore and 1.2" stroke. It was also cheap, about $15. I wanted the slave to mount to the bell housing and not use the transmission mounting bolts. Using some 3/8 aluminum plate and .040 sheet metal, and some ProE help, I came up with the parts shown below.
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I purchased the chrome powder when I got the Eastwood powder coating gun and hadn't had a opportunity to try it so I used it on these parts. I think it looks almost like chrome.
DSCF4418d.jpg

These are pictures of the parts attached to the bell housing.
DSCF4442d.jpg DSCF4441d.jpg DSCF4440d.jpg

The PCM mount was some what a trial and error to get the mount with rails for the PCM to slide on. I powder coated it using the chrome powder and attached it to the frame using 1/4-20 rev nuts. The pictures below show the mount.
DSCF4434d.jpg DSCF4433d.jpg DSCF4432d.jpg Picture limit here, more pictures next post.

[2bking]

Below are pictures of the PCM mount installed on the frame.
DSCF4429d.jpg DSCF4430d.jpg DSCF4431d.jpg

The last part is the brake reservoir and I haven't completed it yet. I'll post pictures when I do.

[aspbite]

P.M. sent on your DS foot box mod. Thanks

[DaleG]

The gap between the tone ring teeth and the sensor magnet is 0.027” – 0.030”.

Forte tweeked the rear caliper brackets for ABS sensors; also attached tone rings: Forte's 8.8 caliper brackets tweeked for ABS sensors.jpg

Asked Russ to fab brackets for ABS front sensors: ABS1.jpg

[ClemsonS197]

Below are pictures of the PCM mount installed on the frame.
DSCF4429d.jpg DSCF4430d.jpg DSCF4431d.jpg

The last part is the brake reservoir and I haven't completed it yet. I'll post pictures when I do.

FYI, the ribbing on the top of the computer is to dissipate heat. Not sure if your mount will overheat the computer, just a thought.

[2bking]

Thanks Dale for the ABS info. The dimension I was unsure about is how far across the tone ring the sensor extends. I can vary the spacer length to accommodate. I have the IRS and the rear ABS sensors mount directly to the pumpkin so that part was easy.

FYI, the ribbing on the top of the computer is to dissipate heat. Not sure if your mount will overheat the computer, just a thought.

I understand and contemplated another design. My quandary was the location is somewhat fixed by the engine harness and it is above the headers. I think it needs a heat shield at least but not an enclosed box so I tried to compromise with an open box thus one side being a heat shield. I'm open to suggestions and experience. I'm thinking there might not be a lot of watts in the box.

[2bking]

Its been awhile since I've updated the build and while a lot of planning has been going on, not much has happened for picture taking. One thing that has been completed is the brake reservoir system. I wanted gravity bled brakes but that can't happen when the reservoir hose routes below the MC inlet. I got the FFR SS polished reservoir that is intended to feed front and rear MCs. The volume in it is pretty small and mounting it outside the DS foot box would put part of the reservoir below the MC inlet. I understand that isn't a problem as long as the brakes are bled all the way to the reservoir but a few bubbles in the reservoir hose requires another bleeding.

My goal was to have one port for filling the reservoir and have the brake and clutch MCs to feed from one tank. To accomplish this, I made a three compartment tank with a common upper chamber to feed the three MCs. This tank is filled from the FFR supplied SS reservoir which is placed for access by removing DS foot box cover. To make this work, I needed a vent hose between the tank and reservoir. The tank and reservoir is supported by a frame mounted to the unused 1/4-20 tapped holes in the top of the Wilwood pedal mount. Below are pictures of the tank parts, welded tank, modified FFR reservoir, frame, and all parts after powder coating.
DSCF4445d.jpg DSCF4450d.jpg DSCF4446d.jpg DSCF4452d.jpg DSCF4459d.jpg

The baffles in the tank prevent any of the MCs from sucking the reservoir and tank dry but share fluid when the tank is over half full. The upper port on the tank allows air to escape back to the reservoir to prevent an air lock. I had two of the FFR reservoirs so I cut the top off one to use on the tank. It is only there to aid in cleaning the tank and is not accessible once the tank is in place.

I mounted the parts in the foot box and did some preliminary hose routing. I need to get some 1/4" hose rated for brake fluid. What's shown in the next pictures is fuel hose.
DSCF4463d.jpg DSCF4464d.jpg DSCF4465d.jpg DSCF4466d.jpg

[2bking]

Part of my away time was devoted to wiring management. I'm going to use the ISIS modules so I needed to find space for their mounting. The modules are quite large and require line of sight access for code reading and trouble shooting. I have ordered the three cell combo of which two are power switching modules for activating the various loads. It is intended for one of these to be placed in the front (engine)area and the other in the rear. The third cell or master cell needs to be located close to the switches thus under the dash is ideal. The modules communicate with each other through a CAN buss and eliminate a lot of wiring. The Coyote engine comes with a Power Distribution Box that also competes for interior space. It too needs line of sight for observing indicator lights should an electrical problem exist. Otherwise, its just a black box. Oh, and the Whitby AC unit subtracts under dash space too.

I have a unique dash layout that saves space and improves the drivers view of the gauges. It allows me to carve out some under dash space to get all the boxes under there. I'm attempting to simplify wire routing by having the forward wires exit above the transmission tunnel here:
DSCF4467d.jpg

I know, I know this panel doesn't look like the FFR supplied one but I had a 3* mistake in the sheet metal I made that attaches to it and it was easier to fix it this way rather than remake all the other panels. Anyway, I made this sheet metal for the wire exit into the engine compartment.
DSCF4469d.jpg DSCF4468d.jpg

This is the mount for the forward power cell.
DSCF4470d.jpg DSCF4471d.jpg

The rear cell will occupy this hole in the trunk.
DSCF4472d.jpg

The firewall only has support along the bottom edge and either end. With the AC unit mounted in the firewall, it seemed to need a little more bracing so I made this bracket to go between the hoop and firewall. It will also serve as a support for the defrost plenum that I plan to use in lieu of the hose for ducting air to the windshield vents.
DSCF4473d.jpg DSCF4474d.jpg

I did manage to get the exterior sheet metal sanded and sprayed with Diamond Coat. It is a urethane type paint similar to POR 15 for applying to bare metals and can be cut and polished. I'm leaving it as sprayed and very glossy.

[DaleG]

Thanks Dale for the ABS info. The dimension I was unsure about is how far across the tone ring the sensor extends. I can vary the spacer length to accommodate. I have the IRS and the rear ABS sensors mount directly to the pumpkin so that part was easy.

I would ask Greg_M about how far across they must extend.

I understand and contemplated another design. My quandary was the location is somewhat fixed by the engine harness and it is above the headers. I think it needs a heat shield at least but not an enclosed box so I tried to compromise with an open box thus one side being a heat shield. I'm open to suggestions and experience. I'm thinking there might not be a lot of watts in the box.

Same location as yours. I used aluminized heat blanket, wrapped around the bottom and lower sides, leaving the fins (on the engine side) exposed.
P1080512.JPG

[carlewms]

King,

I am installing ISIS in a roadster with a 347 Stroker using FAST EZ EFI.

My build thread is http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...highlight=Isis

I mounted my battery forward PS in the engine compartment using the Breeze kit. The Mega Fuse Block is mounted on a plate at the lower end of the PS F-panel.



The Front POWERCELL is on plate on the DS F-panel.



The MASTERCELL is mounted in the cockpit above the transmission tunnel behind a removable panel.



The more I work with ISIS and Jay Harris the happier I am I chose this as my wiring system.

Carl

[2bking]

Thanks Carl, I've been watching your thread with interest and you are doing an excellent job teaching ISIS wiring to the community. I also like your LED dash lights and have them on my buy list.

I planned on using ISIS wiring from the start but was on the fence for pulling the buy trigger because a mistake of applying 12 V to an input will fry the module. After some hand ringing, I decided the benefits simplified some wiring problems like turning turn signals into four way flashers and using a button to control high and low beams without a relay. My master cell is located in the dash close to where yours is but will be on slides for access below the dash. I've carved out some mounting space for the mega fuses but am uncertain as exactly where they should placed. I have the ISIS manual and need to study more and build less. That's my go do for this week. I hoping the dash wiring will be reduced to smaller wires and bundles as space back there is very limited.

[2bking]

An update on the ISIS Wiring as far as the Master Cell location goes. I located it on slides so I could pull it below the dash for access. I found these SS 8" slides on Amazon.
DSCF4475d.jpg

I made a base plate to mount the slides and ISIS Master Cell mount to attach the extending part of the slides. The assembly is shown here:
DSCF4477d.jpg

The slides have a lock feature to hole them close which is good for keeping it retracted so I can screw the shelf extension to the bottom of the dash for positive retention. It is shown here in the open and closed position behind the dash. I powder coated the aluminum with my chrome powder and it looks good but shows finger prints easily.
DSCF4480d.jpg DSCF4481d.jpg

[2bking]

After seeing the mod to the door latches, I got mine out and did the same. I used 5/16 x 1/2 carriage bolts and some of the extra IRS shim washers (perfect fit) to fill the gap under the 5/16 flat washer to get a positive clamp on the parts. I machined the dome off the bolts to .06 thick, applied Loctite, and tightened the nuts. I filed the stop lever boss to allow full retraction of the latch bar and lubed them. It took less than 30 minutes for both latches. The forums are great for showing these fixes to eliminate future problems.
DSCF4487d.jpg DSCF4488d.jpg

[DaleG]

King, remove the spring in Pic #1; it reduces tension. The remaining internal spring is more than sufficient.

[MPTech]

DSCF4487d.jpg

I think you can also remove the exterior spring for even smoother operation. The interior spring is more than enough and puts less stress on the lever.

[MPTech]

King, remove the spring in Pic #1; it reduces tension. The remaining internal spring is more than sufficient.

Sorry Dale, I need to refresh my screen more often at work! yep, x2 what Dale said!

[2bking]

King, remove the spring in Pic #1; it reduces tension. The remaining internal spring is more than sufficient.

Thanks for reminding me-Done.

[2bking]

I'm a little slow but I make a little progress daily. There was a thread on the forum about the passenger side gas tank strap being short and the supplied bolt difficult to use to attach the strap. At one time I had contemplated remaking the strap to add about an inch to its length but dismissed the notion because of the spot welds needed. I didn't have access to a spot welder. The tab end of the strap is too long and interferes with the IRS frame. The direction of the forces there also makes getting a socket on the nut almost impossible. In the last picture the scratches are evidence of the problems.

I was about to rivet the trunk sheet metal in place when I decided t take one more look at the problem. I had to remove the tank strap to install the panel so now was the time. I decided to add a link to the loop end of the strap to lengthen it. It required three simple parts and a little widening of the square hole in the panel where the strap passes. Below are the parts before and after powder coat and installation. They add one inch to the strap length.

DSCF4524d.jpg DSCF4528d.jpg DSCF4531d.jpg DSCF4532d.jpg

I now have to dissemble and repaint. It fixes one little problem that's been bugging me.

[2bking]

The accelerator pedal that comes with the Coyote engine electronics is very large and needs to be heavily modified to mount in the foot box. FF has instructions in the Coyote build manual for doing this but even then, it doesn't look right. There are other pedal options that are quite pricy so I did a little search for other factory pedals that might fit a little better. I found this one Ford uses in their 2012 Van that looked very promising. I picked one up from the local Ford dealer for under $100 (2012 E350 van, p/n BC2Z-9F836-B).

DSCF4534d.jpg

What I thought might be a bolt in turned out to need a little modification because the crook in the arm was in the wrong direction. Here is a view of the crook.

DSCF4537d.jpg

I disassembled it and proceeded to cut the curve section out of the arm. Here it is in three pieces.

DSCF4538d.jpg

I made an insert to reattach the pedal end to the root and removed the plastic webbing to allow the insert to fit slightly below flush. I attached the parts with #8 SS flat head screws and added some polyurethane hard setting calk to fill the voids between the plastic and metal insert. My first attempt was a flat insert DSCF4549d.jpg but after a trial fit in the foot box, it became apparent that an offset would be needed. I remade the insert with a crook. I reused the studs from the bracket that came with the pedal and pressed them in my mounting plate. The parts are shown here. The extra holes in the mounting bracket are from the trial and error attempts to find the ideal location for the pedal.

DSCF4558d.jpg

Here are some close ups of it installed. The location for now feels right but I have room to tweak it both up and down and left and right. One picture shows the 5.5" space between the mod sheet metal and the brake pedal.

DSCF4561d.jpg DSCF4563d.jpg

The parts are powder coated black with my Eastwood equipment that has served me very well. Thirty minutes after I have made a part, it is coated, baked and ready to be assembled.

One last picture of the comparison of the large pedal vs. the small one.

DSCF4553d.jpg

[DaleG]

Very nice substitution.

[mtdr]

King,
I'm building a mount for the PCM like yours. I think I may insulate (similar to Dale's) on the engine side of the mount up to the bottom bracket with ez cool from [email protected] . This will still allow an air gap between the fins and the inside of the mount. Dropping the engine in this weekend with a little help from my friends.....

Been following the builds of Dale, Clemson and you. You all are doing amazing work!

[mrpipes]

What is the Ford part number of the accelerator pedal you used. You have a lot of great ideas in your thread.

Brian

[2bking]

Hi Tim,
Hope all goes well with the engine placement. The bottom of my PCM mount is powder coated chrome and has some reflective qualities similar to the ez cool mat. With almost the same air temperature on both sides of the mat (assuming air circulation through the box) the foam insulation will not buy much. But you do need the reflective surface to keep the header radiation from heating the enclosure.

Bryan,
I'm not sure what the ford part number is because I didn't keep the box but it is used in the 2012 E350 vans and possibly all models of that year. My son has one and we swapped the connector between the Coyote one and his to make sure they were compatible. I went to the local Ford dealer and they looked up the part number and ordered it.

Thank you both for the accolades.

[Tom Mauldin]

Great work and innovation King!

[2bking]

A lot of my time has been spent working on the dash idea and trying to keep the wiring organized. To help reduce the clutter I formed a sheet metal duct from the AC box to the driver's under dash vent. This was partly required because the ISIS Master Cell is located up behind the dash and I put it on drawer slides to get access. When the Master Cell is slid down for viewing, the duct needs to be removed. I am attaching the vent box and short duct to the bottom of the sliding Master Cell mount so all travels together. This is the main duct between the AC box and under dash vent:
DSCF4576d.jpg DSCF4575d.jpg

The dash is in no way intended to be anywhere near period correct. It is arranged solely for functionality by keeping all gauges close together for eye comfort. No body modification is required as the large gauges are one inch deep and fit in front of the body lip roll along the top of the dash. I have completed the foundation of the hood and placed the gauges and switches on the front panel. The following pictures are work in progress and the ISIS master Cell can be seen extended below the dash.
2014-06-21 12.43.20d.jpg 2014-07-03 13.53.37d.jpg 2014-07-03 14.07.31d.jpg

The sheet metal will be covered with leather and walnut burl veneer. A CAD version is shown in the following picture.
mk4_chassis1d.jpg

One of my set backs is the placement of the Coyote Power Distribution Box (PDB). The headlight switch and the box want to occupy the same space so I have two options. The first option is to ditch the PDB and mount and wire the three relays being used on a plate. The other option is to use a shorter headlight switch that doesn't have the dash light dimmer function.

All these deviations from the basic FF build are very time consuming but it make the building challenging and fun. Sometimes it's like a dance, two steps forward and one step back.

[carlewms]

King,

Great work and update. I am particularly interested in the AC installation as well so any more photos and lessons learned on that end would be deeply appreciated.

I have posted my glove box work on my build thread as well.

Carl

[2bking]

OK Carl, here are some more details. I was planning to just fit the external ducts to the plenum snouts but the oval shapes made it difficult to mate the two. I cut the oval snouts off and a lot more came with them. Here is the before picture:
ac-ducts-d.jpg

When I finished cutting out the ovals and cleaning up the interface, adding a spacer and gaskets, it looked like this:
DSCF4600d.jpg

The instructions for routing the hoses that connected to the ovals were unclear. and the exit area was quite small so I have opened up the flow to the DS by removing the snouts. I built the duct shown in a previous post and when it is installed it looks like this:
DSCF4603d.jpg DSCF4605d.jpg

Just a note as to the reason for complexity of the duct and such: The ISIS Master Cell is on slides and the AC duct crosses below the path of the slides. To make access to the Master Cell easier, I elected to mount the final duct work to the lower portion of the Master Cell mount and all lowers together. Two or three screws will be used to hold the slide in position under the dash. Otherwise, the duct would have to be removed before lowering the Master Cell.

The relays seen in the picture are for control of the Whitby AC. I'm using a Ranger AC control panel to operate the Whitby unit so I had to delete the Whitby harness and rewire the controls. The Ranger panel controls the defrost diverter with vacuum so I converted the control of that to a vacuum solenoid. One of the selections on the Ranger Panel is bi-level air between the defrost and floor and the vacuum solenoid supports this with a duel diaphragm. The fan speed knob controls the speed relays. The selection on the Ranger panel has four speeds, the Whitby fan only three so the first two speeds are low speed fan. The Ranger center knob controls temperature using a potentiometer. The Whitby unit uses a mechanical control thermostat and can't blend hot and cold air so the Ranger pot wasn't useful. I removed the pot and made an adapter washer to install the Whitby temperature control. The Ranger knob will adapt to the shaft so all three knobs are alike. I got all the parts off Ebay for less than $100. Here are some of the before and after pictures of the Ranger panel as well as being installed in the panel I made for it.
DSCF4609d.jpg DSCF4610d.jpg DSCF4611d.jpg DSCF4589d.jpg

This panel will be covered with walnut burl and leather to hide all but the knobs and icons. The rest of the Whitby installation is pretty much per the supplied instructions. Installing the AC required removing the 3/4" support tube between the dash hoop and the 2" square tube. That support can be seen in one of the pictures Carl has in a previous post. It is somewhat structural and without it, the hoop had some flex. There isn't much that can be done to replace it because the avenues of structure are blocked by the AC unit. The AC unit is mounted to the firewall and has significant weight and cutting the large hole makes the wall flimsy. When I remade the firewall, I used the old one as a doubler and that helped some. The sheet metal for the Master Cell And the Power Distribution Box triangulated the back side and really stiffened up the firewall in those areas. The brace shown in a pervious post helped stiffen the firewall in the center. I may do some more work on the PS if some bright idea hits me but for now, I think it's good enough.

I wanted to figure out the wiring before I applied the lizard skin and I think I'm there but I have a few more small aluminum parts to build and install to cover the exposed frame tubes and the 2" drop from the seat floor into the foot boxes. More later.

[mrpipes]

King,

My Ford dealer shows a different accelerator pedal for a 2012 E350 than the one in your pictures. Do I have the year and model correct? I have the Coyote controls pack pedal in my MK4 and the space between the gas and brake is only 1.5". I'd like to get 3" like you have. Panic stops could get ugly. Thanks.

Brian

[carlewms]

King,

Thanks for posting the AC related photos. Helps a lot.

Carl

[2bking]

My Ford dealer shows a different accelerator pedal for a 2012 E350 than the one in your pictures. Do I have the year and model correct?

Are you looking at the picture in the parts book? It is totally different from what the part actually looks like. I ordered it thinking I would have to reject it if it was wrong. Turned out to be correct. I'll see if I can find the part number of mine and post it.
EDIT Found the part number: BC2Z-9F836-B

space between the gas and brake is only 1.5". I'd like to get 3" like you have.

Part of the extra room is due to the sheet metal mod I made per post #28. If you want to do some rework on the sheet metal, I have drawings. PM me.

Carl-glad I could help.

[mrpipes]

King,

Yes, I was comparing your picture to the Ford dealership's picture of the pedal. There should be a part number on the engine side of your pedal as it's mounted, if you don't mind looking. I've alreday modified the sheet metal but thanks for offering the drawings.

Brian

[2bking]

I have been working on completing the cockpit aluminum so I can apply the Lizard Skin coatings. I had seen where others had added a transition piece from the seat mounting surface to the lower skin of the foot box on both PS and DS. I liked the look so I did that too. I also wanted to cover up the 1.5" diameter tubes in the foot boxes to help smooth the area and give it a better finished look. It also keeps stuff from hiding under the tubes and in the corners. Here are a few pictures of the completed work.
DSCF4613d.jpg DSCF4614d.jpg DSCF4623d.jpg DSCF4624d.jpg

I have a few details to finish up in the trunk area and then prepare the surfaces for the Lizard Skin.