Thought I would put a reference here to my build thread on fitting up the body.
I summarized the whole process that worked for me....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...365#post196365
See post #171 to #175
Visit our community sponsor
Thought I would put a reference here to my build thread on fitting up the body.
I summarized the whole process that worked for me....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...365#post196365
See post #171 to #175
Harley
Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
First Start Jan 18, 2015
First Drive Feb 14, 2015
My caulk kept clogging! I found this pack of caulk condoms at my Ace Hardware about 6 months ago and they work very well so now each cartridge flows even after months on the shelf:
Caulk condoms.jpg
http://littleredcap.com/
And, if you have a clogged caulk cartridge you can cut off the top and replace it with a new nozzle tip:
http://www.wwhardware.com/fastcap-ca...ement-tips-5pk
Last edited by AZPete; 04-29-2015 at 12:28 PM. Reason: added link
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Nothing new here for 5 months?
PAGE 213 of the manual - 2wd conversion
Book says --
Remove the transmission nut with an impact gun or with the transmission in gear and still attached to the engine. If you do not have the transmission attached to the engine, wait until the engine is in the chassis and the CV axles are installed "
I jumped the gun, and removed the trans.
If you place a long Phillips head screw driver in each axle hole and rotate each so that it "pins" itself against the transmission, you can remove the rear transmission nut.
I know it seems really obvious in hindsight but buffing the paint off the upper ball joints changes that job from "how the hell am I going to get this fitted " to "wow, that will need locktitght"
IMG_0265.jpg
Apologies for the photo, looks like I need a new phone
818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
joshuajach.com
For the split-nut on the throttle cable:
- slip the nut over the cable (the split needs to be aligned)
- rotate the nut so the splits are 180* from each other
- start to thread the nut by hand
- put a 16mm deep socket over the split-nut & the end of the cable
- tighten using a wrench on the flats of cable side
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
If you are installing the Wilwood pedal assembly and FFR wiper kit in your 818 be mindful of where you mount your reservoirs. The FFR instructions location for them will interfere with the wiper kit bracket and transmission arm. I mounted them to the side of the wiper bracket as in the picture. I was fortunate enough to install the wiper kit on my last customer build and caught this right away.
IMG_0108.JPGIMG_0110.JPGIMG_0113.JPG
I have a general question. Is there a build manual with this kit. I built a MK1 back in 2000 and still drive and still building on it. That came with a pretty good build manual.
Drill some holes, go turn on the shop vac, come back with the hose, suck up shavings, go back to turn off the vac, . . . repeat. For $30 I bought a wireless remote control button that gets fastened to the end of the vacuum hose, and the vacuum gets plugged into the receiver. Now, to suck up drill shavings, fiberglass dust, and other stuff I just grab the nearby hose end, press the button on or off! Possibly the best garage gadget since the cordless drill? I have no interest in this product or company. [url]http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewprd.asp?idproduct=45290
Last edited by AZPete; 02-27-2016 at 01:33 PM. Reason: added link
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Nice!
Similar thing for $10.77 : http://www.midlandhardware.com/710210.html
Yet another via Amazon prime: http://www.amazon.com/Westek-RFK306L.../dp/B004ZUKG6Y
818C | Kit delivery: 3/19/16 | Status: Powertrain installed
Daily: 2014 CTS-V - Fat and slow
If you're tearing down your donor ahead of your kit arrival, keep your clevis, pin, and locknut together like this:
20160328_214103_resized.jpg
818C | Kit delivery: 3/19/16 | Status: Powertrain installed
Daily: 2014 CTS-V - Fat and slow
Cutting the existing lip and moving it up and out gave me 1.5" space to avoid tire rubbing. You need a little fiber glass skill to pull it off. It actually makes the front opening more rounded and matching to the rear opening. And, provides tire travel space saving the front fender from being killed by a bump!
Front wheels rubbing the fender.jpg
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Here is the front end. It is a much more rigid structure now with the Hood, fender and splitter structures. Had to do something to assure the front could withstand and stout TUG. Ready to paint in Oct. Running great..Wayne Dyno and General inspection / set up. Put a 2006 dash in it and that really changes it out of the "Kit Look Interior." The outside deserves a better inside IMO.
See you when you get to HHI?
Best, BCFront end.jpg
I like what you've done there. Any more pictures of the fenders smoothed/filled?
I like that. Reminds me of the lower portion of the porsche front bumpers.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
Nolan
65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032
818 s (with r windscreen ) 350 rwhp. Registered and street legal (SOLD)
Installed added bars back to the bottom of chassis past the Radiator Structure. They bolt in front and rear so the Rad Structure can still be removed, if needed. Welded in stronger front bumper bars and side bars to the upper part of the Rad Structure. Actually takes the vibration and shake out of the Front bumper along with a hood mounting brace that goes across the top. Squares everything off and provides a support structure to the center on the Front Splitter. Your front AL underpan with the loovers in it, fits right below the added bars.
Slide1.JPG
A 6 Speed Lock Out Solution
Wayne made me a Lock Out lever that was more reliable than a nylock to hold it open. I added a way to engage and disengage the Lockout to assure I could not shift into reverse. Bike parts and some additions to Wayne's design along with an indicator switch to display the status of the Lock Out. Lever sit right next to the VCP shifter. 2 clicks up or back for in lock or out of lock.
Slide1.JPG
Save your self a headache or 6 and ditch the metric/standard brake adapters. When installed into the brake hoses specifically, they cause brinelling and can leak. Either cut the metric flares off of your donor, or pick up a pack of new flare nuts.
You don't want to have to replace flare nuts after you've already got brake fluid in the system.
Here's one source for flare nuts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
818C | Kit delivery: 3/19/16 | Status: Powertrain installed
Daily: 2014 CTS-V - Fat and slow
Wayne's rear suspension set up pointers...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...et-up-pointers
There is a long term risk of Fiberglass POP through if you do not REgelcoat any place you have broken through the original Gel Coat. In addition, any fiberglass work you have done to reshape panels needs to be gel coated prior to applying any putty, sealer, or primer surfacer.
I did not know to do this, and as a result, I am getting paint blisters all the way down to the glass I thought was totally cured. Me Bad! I thought the epoxy primer I used would seal it sufficiently and it did not.
Fiberglast makes a gel coat primer and Sticky Stuff makes a Sanding Gel Coat primer with SS-10 Curing wax to assure full curing. You can even brush it on and let it cure prior to any glazing putty work.
If you are contracting out your paint job, be certain to find out the practices and procedures your painter uses. If they do not Gel Coat on the open glass areas you will get fabric bleed back and popping when it gets heat in it...like outside in the sun.
I did not do it correctly and got payback with cracks and blisters.
Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
818 SRX - #91
Arrived 01/02/2014
First Start 10/31/2016
First Drive 05/22/2017
Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818
BC, what did you use to fill the areas with? My painter uses Rage Ultra and it lives fine.
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
Areas I roughed up through the gel coat, I used Rage Ultra as well and then top coated with DP 40 a PPG epoxy primer and then finished up with PPG primer surfacer with a top sealer prior to color coat. I do not have a booth, so I cannot force dry anything.
When I finally got these parts out in the sun and heated up, that is when the popping happened. And, it is not solvent popping. Talked to PPG about it and then extensive conversations with Ecklers, the Corvette people. They described what happened before I even told them what happened, and they said it could even take a year. It can blow through any putty or primer if it has and bad reaction. I am saying it is a risk to not gelcoat it. Ecklers has a product, Fiberglast, Sticky Stuff, and others all made to avoid any bleed through. It may not happen and it may happen. I am not paying a big number to have someone else paint my car. It was a real wakeup call.
There is an application practice that assures it will not happen. It adds a step, but in my opinion it is a worthy step to invest in. Ecklers recommends 80 grit the repair site, shoot their gelcoat sanding sealer, surface prep without breaking through the gelcoat with 150 and then use the Primer Surfacer of your choice to prep for top coat.
Hope it does not happen to anyone else...not a nice thing!
Here is the Eckler Application Guide
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/asset...ette/10709.pdf
The build guide has you install the rear suspension prior to the engine. After contemplating this procedure, I thought it would be easier to install the engine first and build the suspension afterwards. Since this is the way I did it not sure if their way is better, but my way worked great. Had the engine, transmission and rear suspension completely installed in less than two hours. My thinking was it will be easier to install the axles in the transmission without the weight of the hubs on the other end. I did have the hubs pre assembled with all of the brackets. Installed engine/trans and built out from there. Engine, axles, hubs and suspension links then brakes.
My 2 cents.
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
Here is a link to a very useful pdf of Gates hoses all the way from small to large radiator sizes. First part is listing by sizes but the 2nd has pictures of ea hose by size so you
can see all available 1.5 in hoses.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-guide.656367/
Illustrations for size 1.5 start about page 80.
Think you will find this handy.
Last edited by frankc5r; 07-04-2017 at 05:27 PM.
I have a great wrap tip. Sometimes when you remove the inner paper by sliding between the film and body, you then start working on an area. And while you reposition the film it's possible the paper bends and stick on the film without you knowing. When you try to remove the twisted paper it tears off and leaves paper residue on the sticky film side, almost IMPOSSIBLE to remove with finger nails or stuff like that.
2017-07-17 14.57.38_1.jpg
No worries, use any cloth filled up with water and rub on the paper.
2017-07-17 14.58.53_1.jpg
Once the paper is just some rolled paper bits and it's still wet, us a dry cloth to remove the rest. Let it dry and re-apply, good as new!
2017-07-17 14.59.40_1.jpg
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
DIY beading tool. Professional beading tools are expensive. I searched around and built some test pieces from web sources but the best uses modified crimp tool from HF or most any parts store.
I cut the end off that cuts wire so I had left just the crimp part. If you use just like that you put on good bead but the end of tube is reduced in diameter a little
by tool. If you look at picture of tool, see the red dot which is where I filed/ground out a relief on one side so that you get a nice crimp w/o affecting the diameter.
You crimp, move a little just overlapping until you have ground around tube. Even a 3 " tube just takes a couple min and because you slide tube into tool till it bottoms, the crimp is even
all the way around and is nice and smooth for your tubing to slip over.
I just got the 818s kit from a second owner. Neither of the two previous had done anything! Despite taking the the MK4 build school with my sons, I am a complete novice on the car scene, but I am more than excited to get going on this build. We have inventoried parts and are removing all of the pieces from the frame now. I want to read this post to get all of your input, but almost all of the photos are saying I need to have an upgraded photo bucket account to view the pics. I just want to make sure that is really the case before I throw a couple hundred dollars into something I don't need? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated! Thank you!
Why not just store the pictures on this forum. Works perfect every time as long as you reduce the resolution reasonable.
Here is a sample of a couple of my post:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post282620
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post267754
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Thank you for the tips! Here I go on the build!