Bob and Mike's 818Se Build Thread

[Bob_n_Cincy]

What a Great visit to FFR this morning. Today we picked our kits, Yes you can fit 2 kits on a 20ft trailer and in a full size van. Chassis #21 Bobs & Mikes #22loading.jpgwreck wrap.jpg

We will be building both of these with high performance electric powertrains. Half way home right now.
If you bring home a kit on an open trailer, grab a stack of FFR postcards to hand out on the way home.
Oh, if you stop at a steak and lube for dinner, just spend the night.
Bob and Mike

[AZPete]

Congrats Bob & Mike! I'll watch carefully to see how you build an 818Se. Please keep showing us as you build it . . . er, them.
You should have seen my 818S waiting for Stewart to load it up for it's trip to AZ!
Pete

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Congrats Bob & Mike! I'll watch carefully to see how you build an 818Se. Please keep showing us as you build it . . . er, them.
You should have seen my 818S waiting for Stewart to load it up for it's trip to AZ!
Pete

I saw Bstuke and freds. I thought you volunteered to delay so everyone else could move up. Bob

[Mechie3]

I didn't realize you were making two! Thats pretty cool.

[Frank818]

Congrats on the double pick-up!
Will be watching closely as well, as I am very very curious on how well an electric powertrain can work in the 818.

[Samiam1017]

Did you shrink wrap or did you let FFR know you were coming with a open trailer and they prepped for that?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Did you shrink wrap or did you let FFR know you were coming with a open trailer and they prepped for that?

I was worried that the openings in the front edge of the doors would catch to much air at 70 mph. So I brought my own "wreck wrap" to close off that hole and hold everything together.
Bob

[68GT500MAN]

Congratulations on the pick up, now on to the build!
Doug

[Goldwing]

Congrats on the pickup. I'm starting to really consider the whole pick it up yourself experience. If I do, I will keep your drive home crowd control advice in mind, lol.

[Wayne Presley]

I know those guys with the Smurf wrapped cars.... Congrats Bob and Mike.
How many times did your daughter bring up stopping at the shop was going to interfere with her beach time

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I know those guys with the Smurf wrapped cars.... Congrats Bob and Mike.
How many times did your daughter bring up stopping at the shop was going to interfere with her beach time

Thanks Wayne, between stopping at your shop and at the corvette national museum. The girls will use that against me for years. I'm sure on our next vacation, they will make me stop at some outlet malls.

I took your advice on the windshields and packed them in the van.P1040455s.jpg
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm going to be removing all the body panel today. What is recommended to remove the duct tape glue residue?
Thanks BobP1040462s.jpg

[VD2021]

I'm going to be removing all the body panel today. What is recommended to remove the duct tape glue residue?
Thanks BobP1040462s.jpg

Klean-Strip Prep-All Wax & Grease Remover. Just spray it on and let it soak for a few minutes. Then a gentle wipe with a microfiber removes it with ease.

It's designed for body panel prep so it will not leave contaminates.

[Mechie3]

Mine just pulled off. In some areas it left a little bit of whitish reside that rubbed off by hand.

[Frank818]

If you can't by bare hand, worst case you can use car wax (those with carnuba are better to remove dirt, stains and stuff like that) or oil. Anything oily should remove that (WD-40, engine oil, sewing machine oil, etc.). Of course it's better to wash out the excess oil after that.

[68GT500MAN]

We use a product called Goo-Gone to remove adhesive residue from many surfaces, it works great.
Doug

[wallace18]

3m adhesive remover works well also.

[Silvertop]

We use a product called Goo-Gone to remove adhesive residue from many surfaces, it works great.
Doug

Yes, I use Goo Gone too. Works really well, won't harm the finish.

[mentatbashar]

Very cool. I look forward to seeing this build. I'm glad to see an electric build again!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

guess what day it is????

[bstuke]

guess what day it is????

8/18! The day they deliver my 818R!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

8/18! The day they deliver my 818R!

Congrats on your delivery.
I rented a storage unit for the last 10 years. #818
It's Fate
Bob

[Frank818]

guess what day it is????

Hump day.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

P1040595.jpg
P1040596.jpg
We spent all day removing, cleaning and inspecting all the fiberglass.
Just for kicks we throw the donor seat in for a size check.
Mike is about 6'1" 250# and I'm 6'0" 290. (no fat *** jokes please, I'm workin on it)
We are definitely going to need some thinner seats and a wookie firewall.

P1040598.jpg
Check out the cool steering wheel.
Bob

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Bob & Mike! This is gonna' be fun to watch

Jeff

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I stop buy Turn In Concepts tonight with my trailer in tow.

1157628_10151837458773428_600216132_n.jpg

http://turninconcepts.com/
They gave me lot of advice on suspension.
Then Greg and Tony started talking about engines. Throwing out part number and names of different turbos so fast my head was spinning. I think they wanted my cars.
They posted this picture on their facebook page. I think every Subaru enthusiast wants one of these.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

turn in concepts2s.jpg
Just another picture of my visit to Turn In Concepts. Tony and Greg really gave me an education on Subaru suspension and engines.

[Mechie3]

I've found it varies. Locally, everyone on the forum seems to love the 818 build thread I have. On nasioc about 5 people have chimed in.

[bstuke]

everyone on the forum seems to love the 818 build thread I have.

Be careful, that head will soon not fit through the door...

[Mechie3]

Be careful, that head will soon not fit through the door...

My bad. Lol. Meant everyone on my local Subaru forum seems to like it while the national forum (nasioc) seems to only have a small handful of people interested. They're all too busy browsing the hella flush gallery.

[bstuke]

My bad. Lol. Meant everyone on my local Subaru forum seems to like it while the national forum (nasioc) seems to only have a small handful of people interested. They're all too busy browsing the hella flush gallery.

Poking fun... but agree with you.

[Frank818]

Looks like a very beautiful day at the time of the pic. So nice.

Ohio.
But I can't find what they are specialists of, exactly?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Looks like a very beautiful day at the time of the pic. So nice.

Ohio.
But I can't find what they are specialists of, exactly?

Hi Frank,
They sell Subaru parts, build Subaru engine and cars, and Race them on weekends.
They are LTD (Living The Dream)
Check out this link: https://www.google.com/search?q=goog...cepts&tbm=isch

[Frank818]

Ok, so they got great knowledge on building engines. That's what I was wondering. tnx.

Nice pictures!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Ok, so they got great knowledge on building engines. That's what I was wondering. tnx.

Nice pictures!

As their name implies "TURN IN" suspension and handling is really their expertise.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I know the LCA fitment has been discussed on 3 or 4 other threads before. I don't think there was a conclusion how to fix it.
So here is my situation and questions.
P1040601s.jpg
The arm is mounted in the outer holes as my donor was a wagon. After tightening the front bolt, the rear aluminum bushing natural position was closer to the inside holes. I had to cut the gusset to get the bushing between the 2 mounting plates.
P1040604s.jpg
I pulled the bushing outward to align the top hole as shown above.
Should I pull it out more to align the bottom hole?
Should I split the difference?
Should I drill aluminum or steel to make the bolts go through?

Here is the picture of the left side.
P1040605s.jpg
If I pull this side out another 1/4", the holes will be close horizontally. A 1/4" movement horizontally of the bracket moves the wheel 1/4" forward or backward in the well.
Can someone from FFR give me a couple of dimension from a frame ref point to the center on the lower ball joint stud So I can determine correct position.

[RM1SepEx]

Looks familiar... Check my thread and Mechies...
I found that I couldn't use the heavy metal washer on the inside of the LCA bushing and get them to align. Remove them and retorque, I think you will find that they align better.

Insert the front bolt through and rotate the arm forward to align the bolts. Check front to rear position with a straight edge (broom handle test) to make sure that both of the control arms position the arm at the same distance from the straight edge across the frame brackets. After you have done this you can determine where you may need to grind to adjust the holes. Can't tell from the photos, make sure the LCA bushing has the slight indent on the bottom of the bushing. I found that the arms were positioned the same using the frame's lower mount holes and I had to "adjust" the upper holes slightly... I adjusted the aluminum bushing on the right (side to side alignment issue) and the steel bracket of the left upper mount (front to back issue)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Build-Thread/ see posts 95 & 124 photos

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Looks familiar... Check my thread and Mechies...
I found that I couldn't use the heavy metal washer on the inside of the LCA bushing and get them to align. Remove them and retorque, I think you will find that they align better.

Insert the front bolt through and rotate the arm forward to align the bolts. Check front to rear position with a straight edge (broom handle test) to make sure that both of the control arms position the arm at the same distance from the straight edge across the frame brackets. After you have done this you can determine where you may need to grind to adjust the holes. Can't tell from the photos, make sure the LCA bushing has the slight indent on the bottom of the bushing. I found that the arms were positioned the same using the frame's lower mount holes and I had to "adjust" the upper holes slightly... I adjusted the aluminum bushing on the right (side to side alignment issue) and the steel bracket of the left upper mount (front to back issue)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Build-Thread/ see posts 95 & 124 photos

Hi RM1SepEx
Thanks for your response.
I don't have any heavy metal washers on my LCA. Maybe the Aluminum ones are different.
The broom handle test will determine if the two wheels are straight across from each other. What if both side need to come forward a 1/2" to center the wheel in the wheel well?
Bob
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

I know the LCA fitment has been discussed on 3 or 4 other threads before. I don't think there was a conclusion how to fix it.
So here is my situation and questions.
P1040601s.jpg
The arm is mounted in the outer holes as my donor was a wagon. After tightening the front bolt, the rear aluminum bushing natural position was closer to the inside holes. I had to cut the gusset to get the bushing between the 2 mounting plates.
P1040604s.jpg
I pulled the bushing outward to align the top hole as shown above.
Should I pull it out more to align the bottom hole?
Should I split the difference?
Should I drill aluminum or steel to make the bolts go through?

Here is the picture of the left side.
P1040605s.jpg
If I pull this side out another 1/4", the holes will be close horizontally. A 1/4" movement horizontally of the bracket moves the wheel 1/4" forward or backward in the well.
Can someone from FFR give me a couple of dimension from a frame ref point to the center on the lower ball joint stud So I can determine correct position.

yes you do have heavy washers on the lolipop LCA bushings...
look at you photo of the left (driver's side) control arm P1040605s.jpg

first you need to cut off the threads beyond the nut, they will hit the aluminum on that side

that bushing has, in order, nut, heavy washer, funky rubber washer, bushing, funky rubber washer, heavy metal washer, control arm.

If you don't use that washer it moves the control arm bushing forward a 1/16 or so. My arms required that washer to be removed or it just didn't fit in the forward LCA bracket... on both sides

I tried and never got a dimension from F5 re exactly where the ball joint should be... Everyone else that I communicated with was right around where my arms came out... I'm keeping my fingers crossed re body position. I can at least assure myself that they are in the same place side to side. I disagree as to the conclusion of how to fix it...

left, clip the vertical bracket a wee bit 1/4 should do it, I did about 1/2, twas too much. You may need to elongate the hole towards the rear a bit on the upper metal bracket, the lower bracket should work fine
right, you may need to elongate the aluminum lolipop's hole a wee bit, mine was between 1/4 and 3/8 of an inch. The lower should be fine. Some had to clip the vertical section of the upper bracket, again 1/4 or so to get them to fit.

Since you are using the front pivot as fixtured and the two lower rear lolipop holes, we all are placing our lower ball joints in the same place. there is some "slop" in the hioles and you can make them as even as possible when you verify their position relative to each other with a straight edge or broom stick

I'l measure my exact wheelbase soon and confirm. The rear suspension placement is non adjustable when you use the stock trailing arm.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

yes you do have heavy washers on the lolipop LCA bushings...
look at you photo of the left (driver's side) control arm P1040605s.jpg

first you need to cut off the threads beyond the nut, they will hit the aluminum on that side

that bushing has, in order, nut, heavy washer, funky rubber washer, bushing, funky rubber washer, heavy metal washer, control arm.

If you don't use that washer it moves the control arm bushing forward a 1/16 or so. My arms required that washer to be removed or it just didn't fit in the forward LCA bracket... on both sides

I tried and never got a dimension from F5 re exactly where the ball joint should be... Everyone else that I communicated with was right around where my arms came out... I'm keeping my fingers crossed re body position. I can at least assure myself that they are in the same place side to side. I disagree as to the conclusion of how to fix it...

left, clip the vertical bracket a wee bit 1/4 should do it, I did about 1/2, twas too much. You may need to elongate the hole towards the rear a bit on the upper metal bracket, the lower bracket should work fine
right, you may need to elongate the aluminum lolipop's hole a wee bit, mine was between 1/4 and 3/8 of an inch. The lower should be fine. Some had to clip the vertical section of the upper bracket, again 1/4 or so to get them to fit.

Since you are using the front pivot as fixtured and the two lower rear lolipop holes, we all are placing our lower ball joints in the same place. there is some "slop" in the hioles and you can make them as even as possible when you verify their position relative to each other with a straight edge or broom stick

I'l measure my exact wheelbase soon and confirm. The rear suspension placement is non adjustable when you use the stock trailing arm.

Hi Dan,
The front side washer you have on the alum LCA is a separate part. On the steel arm I will call it a non-removable welded on flange. I could grind it away.
Here is a couple more pictures:
P1040604z.jpg
lca.jpg
lca adjustment.jpg

I didn't design this LCA, but I believe Subaru uses the metal washers (or flange) are to prevent longitudinal movement of the LCA. During heavy braking you could have 1000 lbs (this is a WAG) of rearward force on the LCA.

Let me know the result of your wheelbase measurements.
Thanks
Bob