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Thread: Nuisance Build Thread

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    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Nuisance Build Thread

    Well, time to start a build thread! #154, an R. I am building it with the intent to autocross. I am hoping SCCA will be reasonable, so I'm building to X-Prepared rules.

    Factory build date was 3/8/14. My fault, it was picked up late by Stewart, and finally made it out west mid April. In talking to Jolene, I learned that it was in a "railroad pack" (on a truck) to Phoenix, and then would be loaded on a truck for Colorado. Since I was in Tucson escaping the snow, I drove up to Phoenix and picked it up. Saved a few bucks, and had a trouble free delivery, loaded into my race trailer.

    Now I have left Tucson for the summer, and I have the car in my barn in SW Colorado. Time to get to work.

    forum starter.jpg

    Face to face with the donor. After reading about the troubles people have with the wrecked, high milage cars, I bought a donor from a friend, a one owner Texas car.

    Nice to meet ya'll!

    Will fill in some details as I go.

    John

  2. #2
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    I look forward to reading your build thread.
    Doug

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    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    welcome! did you weld a camera mount onto your main bar? that's commitment.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

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    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Looks like a nice donor, good luck with the tear down

  5. #5
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    welcome! did you weld a camera mount onto your main bar? that's commitment.
    I did! I thought I would do other welding, like SixStar did, but I decided it was not necessary once everything is bolted together. I'm still thinking about a tow strap for the front for track days, and how I will tie the car down in the trailer.

    Then it will be time to paint the frame.

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    ok.. I know of another car guy that called himself Nuisance... He also lived in Colorado... and he hung out on 3GO.
    I am still that guy... that uses ellipsies everywhere... (and I have the same username as 3GO...

  7. #7
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    onward

    It has been a while, a week long trip, a two day autocross, but I have been working too. The donor is disassembled and the corpse removed. I am cleaning parts and putting together the axles etc.

    As Rasmus wrote in his build thread, it would be nice to cut the CV housing off the front spindles. Easier said than done since the steel is hardened, not super hard, but harder than a normal axle to keep the wear in the CV down. Ideally a cut off saw with abrasive wheel could be used, but I don't have one. A band saw blade wouldn't last long, and even a carbide cutter in the lathe was going to take forever.

    So, I chucked the spindle in the lathe, and then used a hand held die grinder with a cut off disc, and by spinning the spindle and cutting, it only took about 15 minutes per to cut the part through right behind the gears for the ABS sensor. Then I used a carbide cutter to turn the gears off and face the end.

    From the pics in the manual, I guess this is approximately what Factory Five did.

    spindle.jpg

    john

  8. #8
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Mine look just like your's I cut them off with the lathe and faced them about the same amt
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  9. #9
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Frame is painted. If you decide to paint it yourself, it is a lot of work. It took a lot to get all the mill oil off the steel, and then paint, rotate, and paint more.

    But, I am happy that I got to do a little welding on it where I added some bracing (I always have to do a little engineering myself), and I didn't want black powder coat. The lighter color will show leaks better, and the thick powder coat hides small cracks (that can turn into bigger cracks).

    blue frame.jpg

  10. #10
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    I am going to move a couple things from other sections so it will all be in one place. First, my extra suspension mounts:

    So I did it anyway. I do respect all you guys and your opinions, but when I had to drill the holes out to 5/8" because the spacing was off in the frame, I felt like that was too much slop, and I went ahead and made a top plate and welded it in.

    uca bracket.jpg

    I am still on the anti-cantilever bolt campaign (I don't call it single shear with the spacers). These perches are OK when you're running street ride height, but throw in such thick spacers, and I see problems. So, I added some more bracing. Also, the lower perches have no triangulation to speak of, I imagine that is what led SixStar to do his welding.

    If I had it to do again, I would use an 1 1/4" square tube across the front, and space the upper braces up, so I could adjust things a little with washers. Too late now though.

    John

    bracing 1.jpg

    bracing 2.jpg

  11. #11
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    An alternate way to lock the steering pinion shaft

    I have a 2002 wagon donor. I depowered the steering rack by turning down the piston, but still wanted to lock the slop out of the pinion shaft.

    When I took it apart, I saw that there are flats on the input side of the shaft, and flats that the shaft fits into on the output side. I measured them and there is .030" slop, ie the output side is wider than the input side. So, the input can turn a little before the output turns, and that is when it unports the holes that send hydraulic pressure to the rack.

    It was pretty easy to cut a couple of .015" shims to put between the flats on input and output to stop the slop. No welding necessary.

    Here is a picture of the shims required. I cut them from an old feeler gage rather than ordering stock.

    shims.jpg

    Here is an end-on view of the shafts, the input is on the top, and you can see the flats, and how they fit into the output shaft.

    end view steering.jpg

    The next view shows how the shafts go together. I have one shim on top of the input shaft, and the other (hard to see) inside the end of the output shaft, so I can slide the two back together.

    flats fitting together.jpg

    Finally, the shaft is back together, and ready to reinsert into the rack.

    back together.jpg

    Since the shim stock is fairly hard, and the shims fill the entire space, I think this will last a long time. When I clamp the pinion gear in a vise, and turn the spine end, there is zero slop.

    Good luck! John

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    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    And now, some new progress

    First, a KillerB pan installed...

    killerB.jpg

    And today, a new timing belt, modified TGVs are also visible...

    new timing belt.jpg

    Lots of little stuff too, I guess it will get there eventually.

    john

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    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Plodding along

    I had some qualms about aluminum rubbing on steel, so I used some leftover firewall insulation I had to pad between the beautiful Boyd tank and the frame.

    gas tank.jpg

    My timing belt kit came with some very exacting instructions for torqueing the bolt for the crankshaft pulley. I made a bar to bolt to the flywheel so I could torque it now.

    torque bar.jpg

    And, I was able to get the pedals mounted. Finally. If the rest of the kit takes this long I will never make my October deadline.

    pedals.jpg

    Have fun, John

  14. #14
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Just wait till wiring. Bleh
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuisance View Post
    First, a KillerB pan installed...

    killerB.jpg
    I love your DIY engine stand. Too often I get swept up in the "how its always been done" mentality to realize that there is often a faster, cheaper or more effective way to do things without much sacrifice. In this case losing some portability and bench space seems well worth saving a couple hundred bucks.

  16. #16
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Thanks Boog. I like that when I am finished with it, it won't take up much space.

    Definitely not looking forward to wiring.

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    How to attach belly skins

    It is nice to have a chain hoist

    belly skins.jpg

    Drill'em and fill'em!

  18. #18
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    tunnel doesn't reach

    As Wayne said, the cumulative effect of coloring outside the lines...

    tunnel .jpg

    A couple of hours work and it will be good a new. The hours do add up though.

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    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Firewall

    I took a slightly different approach to fitting the firewall farther back. I cut the overlapping part of the upper piece, and then riveted it back on top after trimming.

    firewall.jpg
    John Huft -- #154 R

  20. #20
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    John, I can appreciate your out-of-box methods for the rear firewall but hanging the chassis like a dead fish to rivet the belly pan is just plain cheating!

    Your penalty should be 3 hours on your back with drill chips in your face.
    Last edited by AZPete; 07-26-2014 at 06:11 PM.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

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    update

    Well, I had to go back 3 pages to find my build thread. I guess I should update it more often, but I feel like I am just saying "yeah, me too". I will just post a few pics, and maybe it will help someone, or maybe someone will have a suggestion for me.

    First, the type R frame does not get along with the type S sheet metal that is supplied. Here is how I solved the dead pedal area, with some scrap diamond plate I had.

    pass dead pedal.jpg

    Here is a top view of the engine, a lot of the plumbing is done, I am waiting for the redesigned mounting parts for my Very Cool AWIC.

    top of engine.jpg

    Here is the exhaust I fabbed. I have been using the muffler for a couple of years on my S2000.

    exhaust.jpg

    And, here is is the passenger side panel. I thought it would be cool to see the tubing from inside.

    side panel.jpg

    Happy building!
    John Huft -- #154 R

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    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    I've been trying the body on for size. Hanging the nose showed me I needed to drop the intercooler radiator down, so it has been helpful.

    Here is the rear with the exhaust. I am not seeing a reason for all these vents in the bodywork given that the engine and the intercooler are water cooled. Any opinions out there?

    rear1.jpg
    John Huft -- #154 R

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    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    John, I can appreciate your out-of-box methods for the rear firewall but hanging the chassis like a dead fish to rivet the belly pan is just plain cheating!

    Your penalty should be 3 hours on your back with drill chips in your face.
    Ha Ha Pete. You came back four days later and gave me that sentence? Trust me, I have already served it many times over.
    John Huft -- #154 R

  24. #24
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    I'm not sure how air tight the rear is and if you'd want to open up the rear vents just to prevent drag.
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  25. #25
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuisance View Post
    I took a slightly different approach to fitting the firewall farther back. I cut the overlapping part of the upper piece, and then riveted it back on top after trimming.
    But the angle where the upper and lower meet will be off now since you pushed it back
    Tony Nadalin
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  26. #26
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    I'm not sure how air tight the rear is and if you'd want to open up the rear vents just to prevent drag.
    That is a good observation. I think I will wait until I have the fender skirts done and take another look.
    John Huft -- #154 R

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    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    But the angle where the upper and lower meet will be off now since you pushed it back
    I did not do a good job of explaining. What I did, after I set the lower piece back a couple of inches, was to lower the upper piece until it intersected the lower correctly. It was about 4 inches lower then. I then cut the overhang off so it would look right, and then I used the cutoff piece to extend the top of the upper firewall piece.

    So, really, the difference is that the flat shelf is about 4" lower than before, and the lower part around the fuel tank is not so deep.

    Thanks!
    John Huft -- #154 R

  28. #28
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    wing support

    Here is my version of a wing support structure. I tried to make as much use of the existing frame as possible. It is aluminum and weighs very little.

    wing support.jpg
    John Huft -- #154 R

  29. #29
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    wing brace revisited

    After looking at the wing brace some more, I added a couple of diagonals to support the middle. They roughly correspond to the front of the wing mount, and APR says some of the wings can produce 1650 pounds of downforce at 160 mph. I am not planning to go to the salt flats, but...

    Also, the plan was always to use the brace to add support to the middle of the engine covers, so I clamped something there to look at that. It was always a requirement that the flap brace be low enough to not interfere with the forward engine cover as it swings open (the ends of the spider humps swing down 4 inches or so).

    And, aiming for autocross, E-mod only allows a spoiler, and not a wing. But the spoiler can be 10 inches high, so that will put some force on the brace.

    wing support plus.jpg
    John Huft -- #154 R

  30. #30
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    hinges

    I decided such a fine automobile deserves some hinges instead of pins...

    hood hinge.jpg

    engine cover 2.jpg

    engine cover.jpg
    John Huft -- #154 R

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    grill

    John Huft -- #154 R

  32. #32
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    That's pretty good! Looks like it swallowed a WRX (python style)
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
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  33. #33
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    are you going to merge the pieces you cut off the hump piece onto the quarters?
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  34. #34
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    are you going to merge the pieces you cut off the hump piece onto the quarters?
    Yes, exactly. Picture will come next time it is together.
    John Huft -- #154 R

  35. #35
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Cool stuff
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  36. #36
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuisance View Post
    Yes, exactly. Picture will come next time it is together.

    Cool, I was thinking about doing that myself, pretty flimsy otherwise.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  37. #37
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Here is a picture of the quarter panel with part of the engine cover. It is attached with epoxy resin, and I added an extension to fill in the gap left by factory five under the roll bar brace.

    fender and hood piece.jpg

    I will take another picture when it is together, I am wiring now.

    I went this way because the piece that I cut off the engine cover had not been trimmed correctly by factory five, and would not fit over the roll bar. It took me a while to realize that it was simply trimmed wrong, and meanwhile I decided to hinge the engine cover so I could check oil and water, etc. More pics to come.
    John Huft -- #154 R

  38. #38
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Interior is coming together. I made a center panel and mounted the control panel from iWire.

    interior rough.jpg

    Wiring is about done. I couldn't have done it without Brian at iWire. He finished the harness on budget and a few days earlier than promised! And you can see from the picture, it is as tidy as can be.

    I am doing a lot of filling and sanding these days. I hope to be able to post some pictures of an assembled car soon.
    John Huft -- #154 R

  39. #39
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuisance View Post
    Interior is coming together. I made a center panel and mounted the control panel from iWire.
    Looks nice. I have the original fiberglass console, which I'll probably ditch for something similar. You don't, by chance, happen to have saved your template?

    Quote Originally Posted by nuisance View Post
    Wiring is about done. I couldn't have done it without Brian at iWire. He finished the harness on budget and a few days earlier than promised! And you can see from the picture, it is as tidy as can be.
    Nice, I've talked to Brian about a harness for my S. I'm going to give it a shot myself first (since I'm over budget and like a challenge ), but if it ends up being too much of a hassle, I'll have him do his magic.

  40. #40
    iWire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuisance View Post
    Interior is coming together. I made a center panel and mounted the control panel from iWire.

    interior rough.jpg

    Wiring is about done. I couldn't have done it without Brian at iWire. He finished the harness on budget and a few days earlier than promised! And you can see from the picture, it is as tidy as can be.

    I am doing a lot of filling and sanding these days. I hope to be able to post some pictures of an assembled car soon.
    You're quite welcome John! Glad to be of service.

    Is the foot rest on the right in the way of mounting the fuseboxes further to the edge?

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