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Thread: Bob and Mike's 818Se Build Thread

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  1. #1
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Bob and Mike's 818Se Build Thread

    What a Great visit to FFR this morning. Today we picked our kits, Yes you can fit 2 kits on a 20ft trailer and in a full size van. Chassis #21 Bobs & Mikes #22loading.jpgwreck wrap.jpg

    We will be building both of these with high performance electric powertrains. Half way home right now.
    If you bring home a kit on an open trailer, grab a stack of FFR postcards to hand out on the way home.
    Oh, if you stop at a steak and lube for dinner, just spend the night.
    Bob and Mike
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 08-12-2013 at 11:42 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Congrats Bob & Mike! I'll watch carefully to see how you build an 818Se. Please keep showing us as you build it . . . er, them.
    You should have seen my 818S waiting for Stewart to load it up for it's trip to AZ!
    Pete
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  3. #3
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Congrats Bob & Mike! I'll watch carefully to see how you build an 818Se. Please keep showing us as you build it . . . er, them.
    You should have seen my 818S waiting for Stewart to load it up for it's trip to AZ!
    Pete
    I saw Bstuke and freds. I thought you volunteered to delay so everyone else could move up. Bob

  4. #4
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    I didn't realize you were making two! Thats pretty cool.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Congrats on the double pick-up!
    Will be watching closely as well, as I am very very curious on how well an electric powertrain can work in the 818.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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    Did you shrink wrap or did you let FFR know you were coming with a open trailer and they prepped for that?

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    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samiam1017 View Post
    Did you shrink wrap or did you let FFR know you were coming with a open trailer and they prepped for that?
    I was worried that the openings in the front edge of the doors would catch to much air at 70 mph. So I brought my own "wreck wrap" to close off that hole and hold everything together.
    Bob

  8. #8
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    Congratulations on the pick up, now on to the build!
    Doug

  9. #9
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    Congrats on the pickup. I'm starting to really consider the whole pick it up yourself experience. If I do, I will keep your drive home crowd control advice in mind, lol.

  10. #10
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    I know those guys with the Smurf wrapped cars.... Congrats Bob and Mike.
    How many times did your daughter bring up stopping at the shop was going to interfere with her beach time
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
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  11. #11
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Presley View Post
    I know those guys with the Smurf wrapped cars.... Congrats Bob and Mike.
    How many times did your daughter bring up stopping at the shop was going to interfere with her beach time
    Thanks Wayne, between stopping at your shop and at the corvette national museum. The girls will use that against me for years. I'm sure on our next vacation, they will make me stop at some outlet malls.

    I took your advice on the windshields and packed them in the van.P1040455s.jpg
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 08-14-2013 at 09:50 AM.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    I'm going to be removing all the body panel today. What is recommended to remove the duct tape glue residue?
    Thanks BobP1040462s.jpg

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    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    I'm going to be removing all the body panel today. What is recommended to remove the duct tape glue residue?
    Thanks BobP1040462s.jpg
    Klean-Strip Prep-All Wax & Grease Remover. Just spray it on and let it soak for a few minutes. Then a gentle wipe with a microfiber removes it with ease.

    It's designed for body panel prep so it will not leave contaminates.
    R/s
    Vidal
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  14. #14
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Mine just pulled off. In some areas it left a little bit of whitish reside that rubbed off by hand.
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    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    If you can't by bare hand, worst case you can use car wax (those with carnuba are better to remove dirt, stains and stuff like that) or oil. Anything oily should remove that (WD-40, engine oil, sewing machine oil, etc.). Of course it's better to wash out the excess oil after that.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  16. #16
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    We use a product called Goo-Gone to remove adhesive residue from many surfaces, it works great.
    Doug

  17. #17
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    3m adhesive remover works well also.

  18. #18
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68GT500MAN View Post
    We use a product called Goo-Gone to remove adhesive residue from many surfaces, it works great.
    Doug
    Yes, I use Goo Gone too. Works really well, won't harm the finish.

  19. #19
    Member mentatbashar's Avatar
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    Very cool. I look forward to seeing this build. I'm glad to see an electric build again!

  20. #20
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    guess what day it is????

  21. #21
    818 Junkie... bstuke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    guess what day it is????
    8/18! The day they deliver my 818R!
    818R For Sale!
    818R Sale Thread
    PADI Master Scuba Diver Trainer, PADI TecRec Gas Blender Instructor, Operations Manager - DNS Diving, Grand Cayman

  22. #22
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bstuke View Post
    8/18! The day they deliver my 818R!
    Congrats on your delivery.
    I rented a storage unit for the last 10 years. #818
    It's Fate
    Bob

  23. #23
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    guess what day it is????
    Hump day.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  24. #24
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Seat size check

    P1040595.jpg
    P1040596.jpg
    We spent all day removing, cleaning and inspecting all the fiberglass.
    Just for kicks we throw the donor seat in for a size check.
    Mike is about 6'1" 250# and I'm 6'0" 290. (no fat *** jokes please, I'm workin on it)
    We are definitely going to need some thinner seats and a wookie firewall.

    P1040598.jpg
    Check out the cool steering wheel.
    Bob

  25. #25
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Hey Bob & Mike! This is gonna' be fun to watch

    Jeff

  26. #26
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Turn In Concepts

    I stop buy Turn In Concepts tonight with my trailer in tow.

    1157628_10151837458773428_600216132_n.jpg

    http://turninconcepts.com/
    They gave me lot of advice on suspension.
    Then Greg and Tony started talking about engines. Throwing out part number and names of different turbos so fast my head was spinning. I think they wanted my cars.
    They posted this picture on their facebook page. I think every Subaru enthusiast wants one of these.
    Bob

  27. #27
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Bob & Mikes Visit to Turn In Concepts

    turn in concepts2s.jpg
    Just another picture of my visit to Turn In Concepts. Tony and Greg really gave me an education on Subaru suspension and engines.

  28. #28
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    I've found it varies. Locally, everyone on the forum seems to love the 818 build thread I have. On nasioc about 5 people have chimed in.
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  29. #29
    818 Junkie... bstuke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    everyone on the forum seems to love the 818 build thread I have.
    Be careful, that head will soon not fit through the door...
    818R For Sale!
    818R Sale Thread
    PADI Master Scuba Diver Trainer, PADI TecRec Gas Blender Instructor, Operations Manager - DNS Diving, Grand Cayman

  30. #30
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bstuke View Post
    Be careful, that head will soon not fit through the door...
    My bad. Lol. Meant everyone on my local Subaru forum seems to like it while the national forum (nasioc) seems to only have a small handful of people interested. They're all too busy browsing the hella flush gallery.
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  31. #31
    818 Junkie... bstuke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    My bad. Lol. Meant everyone on my local Subaru forum seems to like it while the national forum (nasioc) seems to only have a small handful of people interested. They're all too busy browsing the hella flush gallery.
    Poking fun... but agree with you.
    818R For Sale!
    818R Sale Thread
    PADI Master Scuba Diver Trainer, PADI TecRec Gas Blender Instructor, Operations Manager - DNS Diving, Grand Cayman

  32. #32
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Looks like a very beautiful day at the time of the pic. So nice.

    Ohio.
    But I can't find what they are specialists of, exactly?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  33. #33
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Looks like a very beautiful day at the time of the pic. So nice.

    Ohio.
    But I can't find what they are specialists of, exactly?
    Hi Frank,
    They sell Subaru parts, build Subaru engine and cars, and Race them on weekends.
    They are LTD (Living The Dream)
    Check out this link: https://www.google.com/search?q=goog...cepts&tbm=isch

  34. #34
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Ok, so they got great knowledge on building engines. That's what I was wondering. tnx.

    Nice pictures!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  35. #35
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Ok, so they got great knowledge on building engines. That's what I was wondering. tnx.

    Nice pictures!
    As their name implies "TURN IN" suspension and handling is really their expertise.
    Bob

  36. #36
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Test fit LCA today

    I know the LCA fitment has been discussed on 3 or 4 other threads before. I don't think there was a conclusion how to fix it.
    So here is my situation and questions.
    P1040601s.jpg
    The arm is mounted in the outer holes as my donor was a wagon. After tightening the front bolt, the rear aluminum bushing natural position was closer to the inside holes. I had to cut the gusset to get the bushing between the 2 mounting plates.
    P1040604s.jpg
    I pulled the bushing outward to align the top hole as shown above.
    Should I pull it out more to align the bottom hole?
    Should I split the difference?
    Should I drill aluminum or steel to make the bolts go through?

    Here is the picture of the left side.
    P1040605s.jpg
    If I pull this side out another 1/4", the holes will be close horizontally. A 1/4" movement horizontally of the bracket moves the wheel 1/4" forward or backward in the well.
    Can someone from FFR give me a couple of dimension from a frame ref point to the center on the lower ball joint stud So I can determine correct position.

  37. #37
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Looks familiar... Check my thread and Mechies...
    I found that I couldn't use the heavy metal washer on the inside of the LCA bushing and get them to align. Remove them and retorque, I think you will find that they align better.

    Insert the front bolt through and rotate the arm forward to align the bolts. Check front to rear position with a straight edge (broom handle test) to make sure that both of the control arms position the arm at the same distance from the straight edge across the frame brackets. After you have done this you can determine where you may need to grind to adjust the holes. Can't tell from the photos, make sure the LCA bushing has the slight indent on the bottom of the bushing. I found that the arms were positioned the same using the frame's lower mount holes and I had to "adjust" the upper holes slightly... I adjusted the aluminum bushing on the right (side to side alignment issue) and the steel bracket of the left upper mount (front to back issue)

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Build-Thread/ see posts 95 & 124 photos
    Last edited by RM1SepEx; 08-24-2013 at 09:43 PM.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  38. #38
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    Looks familiar... Check my thread and Mechies...
    I found that I couldn't use the heavy metal washer on the inside of the LCA bushing and get them to align. Remove them and retorque, I think you will find that they align better.

    Insert the front bolt through and rotate the arm forward to align the bolts. Check front to rear position with a straight edge (broom handle test) to make sure that both of the control arms position the arm at the same distance from the straight edge across the frame brackets. After you have done this you can determine where you may need to grind to adjust the holes. Can't tell from the photos, make sure the LCA bushing has the slight indent on the bottom of the bushing. I found that the arms were positioned the same using the frame's lower mount holes and I had to "adjust" the upper holes slightly... I adjusted the aluminum bushing on the right (side to side alignment issue) and the steel bracket of the left upper mount (front to back issue)

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Build-Thread/ see posts 95 & 124 photos
    Hi RM1SepEx
    Thanks for your response.
    I don't have any heavy metal washers on my LCA. Maybe the Aluminum ones are different.
    The broom handle test will determine if the two wheels are straight across from each other. What if both side need to come forward a 1/2" to center the wheel in the wheel well?
    Bob
    Bob

  39. #39
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    I know the LCA fitment has been discussed on 3 or 4 other threads before. I don't think there was a conclusion how to fix it.
    So here is my situation and questions.
    P1040601s.jpg
    The arm is mounted in the outer holes as my donor was a wagon. After tightening the front bolt, the rear aluminum bushing natural position was closer to the inside holes. I had to cut the gusset to get the bushing between the 2 mounting plates.
    P1040604s.jpg
    I pulled the bushing outward to align the top hole as shown above.
    Should I pull it out more to align the bottom hole?
    Should I split the difference?
    Should I drill aluminum or steel to make the bolts go through?

    Here is the picture of the left side.
    P1040605s.jpg
    If I pull this side out another 1/4", the holes will be close horizontally. A 1/4" movement horizontally of the bracket moves the wheel 1/4" forward or backward in the well.
    Can someone from FFR give me a couple of dimension from a frame ref point to the center on the lower ball joint stud So I can determine correct position.

    yes you do have heavy washers on the lolipop LCA bushings...
    look at you photo of the left (driver's side) control arm P1040605s.jpg

    first you need to cut off the threads beyond the nut, they will hit the aluminum on that side

    that bushing has, in order, nut, heavy washer, funky rubber washer, bushing, funky rubber washer, heavy metal washer, control arm.

    If you don't use that washer it moves the control arm bushing forward a 1/16 or so. My arms required that washer to be removed or it just didn't fit in the forward LCA bracket... on both sides

    I tried and never got a dimension from F5 re exactly where the ball joint should be... Everyone else that I communicated with was right around where my arms came out... I'm keeping my fingers crossed re body position. I can at least assure myself that they are in the same place side to side. I disagree as to the conclusion of how to fix it...

    left, clip the vertical bracket a wee bit 1/4 should do it, I did about 1/2, twas too much. You may need to elongate the hole towards the rear a bit on the upper metal bracket, the lower bracket should work fine
    right, you may need to elongate the aluminum lolipop's hole a wee bit, mine was between 1/4 and 3/8 of an inch. The lower should be fine. Some had to clip the vertical section of the upper bracket, again 1/4 or so to get them to fit.

    Since you are using the front pivot as fixtured and the two lower rear lolipop holes, we all are placing our lower ball joints in the same place. there is some "slop" in the hioles and you can make them as even as possible when you verify their position relative to each other with a straight edge or broom stick

    I'l measure my exact wheelbase soon and confirm. The rear suspension placement is non adjustable when you use the stock trailing arm.
    Last edited by RM1SepEx; 08-25-2013 at 05:42 PM.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  40. #40
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    yes you do have heavy washers on the lolipop LCA bushings...
    look at you photo of the left (driver's side) control arm P1040605s.jpg

    first you need to cut off the threads beyond the nut, they will hit the aluminum on that side

    that bushing has, in order, nut, heavy washer, funky rubber washer, bushing, funky rubber washer, heavy metal washer, control arm.

    If you don't use that washer it moves the control arm bushing forward a 1/16 or so. My arms required that washer to be removed or it just didn't fit in the forward LCA bracket... on both sides

    I tried and never got a dimension from F5 re exactly where the ball joint should be... Everyone else that I communicated with was right around where my arms came out... I'm keeping my fingers crossed re body position. I can at least assure myself that they are in the same place side to side. I disagree as to the conclusion of how to fix it...

    left, clip the vertical bracket a wee bit 1/4 should do it, I did about 1/2, twas too much. You may need to elongate the hole towards the rear a bit on the upper metal bracket, the lower bracket should work fine
    right, you may need to elongate the aluminum lolipop's hole a wee bit, mine was between 1/4 and 3/8 of an inch. The lower should be fine. Some had to clip the vertical section of the upper bracket, again 1/4 or so to get them to fit.

    Since you are using the front pivot as fixtured and the two lower rear lolipop holes, we all are placing our lower ball joints in the same place. there is some "slop" in the hioles and you can make them as even as possible when you verify their position relative to each other with a straight edge or broom stick

    I'l measure my exact wheelbase soon and confirm. The rear suspension placement is non adjustable when you use the stock trailing arm.
    Hi Dan,
    The front side washer you have on the alum LCA is a separate part. On the steel arm I will call it a non-removable welded on flange. I could grind it away.
    Here is a couple more pictures:
    P1040604z.jpg
    lca.jpg
    lca adjustment.jpg

    I didn't design this LCA, but I believe Subaru uses the metal washers (or flange) are to prevent longitudinal movement of the LCA. During heavy braking you could have 1000 lbs (this is a WAG) of rearward force on the LCA.

    Let me know the result of your wheelbase measurements.
    Thanks
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 08-25-2013 at 08:00 PM.

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