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Thread: Lets talk about aftermarket suspension parts

  1. #1

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    Lets talk about aftermarket suspension parts

    I would like to use as little of the rusty old WRX supension parts as possible. I have STI uprights and spindles, STI brakes and aluminum front control arms. What else do I need for the front? What aftermarket stuff do I need to complete the back?
    Thanks Mike

  2. #2
    Member 508wrx's Avatar
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    You might be just about all set with the front. The rear you'll need the uprights, spindles, multilink, and trailing arms.

    The uprights and spindles can probably be found at rockauto.com or if your want to go sti you can do that as well (it will make fitting those rear brembo's much easier). As for the multilink and trailing arms you can do oem, sti, or aftermarket. I have no experience with aftermarket items in that area so I can't recommend a good place to start.

    A side note: If you use wrx style rear uprights you'll need an adapter kit to be able to use brembo's with those uprights.

  3. #3
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    STI uprights don't currently work with the front suspension adapters. You'll need to make your own or machine down the width of the mounting point on the spindles/knuckle.

    For the rear, don't get STI lateral links. They're expensive as it's the only aluminum set for both of teh rear links. We don't have a rear swaybar, so you can actually use two sets of the 06 WRX lateral link. A few other years had the aluminum link as well, just don't know offhand. These don't have sway bar tabs, but this won't affect us. Both metalmaker and I went this route with dual aluminum links in the rear.

    You can buy cheap trailing arms and lateral links, but they tend to rust up pretty quickly.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I think Wayne has built some trailing arms that I think he planned on offering at some point... just saying, if anyone (or him) can confirm.

    At the same time I'm subscribing to this thread as I want to follow this up (and increase my budget I guess).
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
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  5. #5

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    I already have the uprights and brakes for all four corners. So the front is all set with the exception of the fitment problem? Should be an easy fix. I will need 4 of the aluminum 06 lateral links for the rear? What about the lower cotrol arm in the rear?
    Thanks Mike

  6. #6
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Do you mean the trailing arm? You can get some OEM ones with pillowball bearings installed, or some aftermarket. There aren't that many. Cusco makes some. Others are generally knockoffs of that general design.

    Lateral links: Yes, you'll need 4 total. Cars only came with 2 at most. Some are $60/set on ebay. I got lucky and found a set for $20 (and had a set on my 06). I think 05's and 07's had them too, but not 100% sure.
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  7. #7

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    is this what i want 4 of? are they all the same length?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impre...r#ht_606wt_651

  8. #8
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Yes, that is the aluminum OEM link and they are the same length.

    Here's a pair for $60 ($10 cheaper per link than the auction you posted)
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-SUBARU-...#ht_2801wt_826

    Full aftermarket set for $70 (used). Not sure of brand or quality. Looks like they were taken off a car at a junkyard.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impre...#ht_1240wt_959
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  9. #9
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Do you mean the trailing arm? You can get some OEM ones with pillowball bearings installed, or some aftermarket. There aren't that many. Cusco makes some. Others are generally knockoffs of that general design.

    Lateral links: Yes, you'll need 4 total. Cars only came with 2 at most. Some are $60/set on ebay. I got lucky and found a set for $20 (and had a set on my 06). I think 05's and 07's had them too, but not 100% sure.
    my 05 had aluminum fronts too (and bent steel rears!) I went the aftermarket route and sold my aluminum ones... that $70 set looks like they are in good condition at a fair price...
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  10. #10

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    What $70.00 set. Oh the ones I just bought. Now to find 2 more.
    Mike

  11. #11
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    I think he meant the full set of aftermarket arms for $70.
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  12. #12
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Does anyone know if the camber adjustment on the rear of the 818 will be enough (-2.5 to -3.5) using the stock Lateral Links? This is for my 818R. If not, I'm considering the Whiteline adjustable links, or the super ridiculous priced Cusco items.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
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  13. #13
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    You will be able to get plenty of camber, I have .8° neg camber and have plenty of adjustment left.
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
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  14. #14
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Enough adjustments to do like this black Merc?

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_r6ltUgtFWI


    looollllll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
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  15. #15
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Thanks Wayne. FYI- I'm still going to get that shifter and wilwood package from you. I got some 2003 rear knuckles and 2007 front so it works.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  16. #16
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael everson View Post
    I already have the uprights and brakes for all four corners. So the front is all set with the exception of the fitment problem? Should be an easy fix. I will need 4 of the aluminum 06 lateral links for the rear? What about the lower cotrol arm in the rear?
    Thanks Mike
    Yes you'll need to mill them thinner, and then weld and redrill the top mouting hole. But it sounds like you have all the pieces you need for the front.

    05s also have a pair of aluminum links.

    The rest of the parts are provided by FFR except for the trailing arms. I went with MSI ones. Pricey but they are beautiful and several lbs lighter than the stock pieces and should last a long time.
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  17. #17
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  18. #18
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    What bushings are you going to use?


    Anyone have the part number handy for the 06 Aluminum Lateral Links?
    Last edited by C.Plavan; 08-27-2013 at 04:29 PM.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  19. #19
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    I have Turn In Concepts bushings for them, both front and rear, they offer 95 and 80 hardness, as well as bearings.

    I don't have PN for the aluminum link as most online OEM Subaru Shops don't list them for fear of god forbid, price shopping. Your local dealer will probably tell you, mine's still closed.
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  20. #20
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    I have Turn In Concepts bushings for them, both front and rear, they offer 95 and 80 hardness, as well as bearings.

    I don't have PN for the aluminum link as most online OEM Subaru Shops don't list them for fear of god forbid, price shopping. Your local dealer will probably tell you, mine's still closed.
    Is that the 1" correction arm? Do we even need the 1" or 2" correction with the 818 Suspension design?
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
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  21. #21
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Yes, I ordered the one inch (and plan or running the 818 at race height which is one inch lower than street so hopefully the geometry will be close enough)

    This is what I have:

    http://turninconcepts.com/product_in...oducts_id=1174


    Technically you don't need any correction, but the only ones MSI makes for factory ride height are their gravel ones. I spoke to Mark at MSI and he said he could make me a set of gravel ones without the extra bracing, but the tubing will still be thicker and slightly heavier. I'll know if the 1" correction will work soon enough.

    I have the measurements and can email you if you send me a pm me your address.
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  22. #22
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    Wayne Presley's Avatar
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    The 818 has mounting holes higher to lower the car 1" and leave the geometry unaffected.
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  23. #23
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    So if we use the higher holes, we should use stock geometry trailing arms, not ones that are modified. Correct?
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  24. #24
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    yes... all the suspension holes are duplicated (longer front arms only) for lower ride height
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  25. #25
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    Lower rear links

    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    yes... all the suspension holes are duplicated (longer front arms only) for lower ride height
    Anybody know if the 818 rear suspension will have provision for toe adjustment? My donor lower rear links are both bent. I want to replace them and need to know if I should source some like the Truhart lateral arms with adjustment provision.

  26. #26
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    Anybody know if the 818 rear suspension will have provision for toe adjustment? My donor lower rear links are both bent. I want to replace them and need to know if I should source some like the Truhart lateral arms with adjustment provision.
    The rear most lateral bar has a CAM bolt on the chassis end to adjust rear toe.
    Bob

  27. #27
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    I went ahead and bought the OEM SPT lateral links and SPT trailing arms. These have the spherical bearings (pillowball) installed on them. Not sure I will like the pinkish/red color, but that is easily fixed.

    There are tons of eBay parts that are much less, with shady performance, so I stuck with Subaru Performance Tuning parts. When I'm racing, I don't want a cheap EBay part to fail.....

    If you do the same, make sure to shop around with the Oem part numbers. I noticed a difference in prices.
    SPT Trailing arm: st2027055000
    SPT Lateral links: st202504s000. (Wrx)

    Double check on your own- for your year WRX.
    Last edited by C.Plavan; 08-30-2013 at 08:33 AM.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  28. #28
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Good choice, the Cherry Blossom Pink looks good in real life. With the removable endlink mounts not installed you'll have a clean look. Plus you can sell them for a few bucks.

    As far as I know they are steel.

    You are smart to avoid the ebay stuff. bearings pull out, welds crack, steel turns to mush, etc etc.

    I can get the trailing arms for $310 shipped. LMK if you paid much more.
    Last edited by longislandwrx; 08-29-2013 at 01:12 PM.
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  29. #29
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    I paid $349. That's a great a price.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  30. #30
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    Any thoughts on a stiffer rear (now front) sway bar? I have both the OEM and a Whiteline 24mm sway bar. I'm thinking the OEM will be plenty and the stiffer Whiteline may create too much understeer. Any thoughts? I guess once I have it running I could swap them out and see which works better.

  31. #31
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Guns-

    At this stage it's probably too early to tell. Anyone know the size of bar on the 818R? I'm guessing stock.

    Can someone do me a favor? Could they measure the width of their sway bar, and the length of the arms? I don't have a stock one available. I'm thinking I can grab one from my sponsors and make it work, while not having all the crazy loops in it. It would be straight and clean. It may open up another market for them.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  32. #32
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    My Knowledgeable Subie FRiends,

    Can I get your thoughts on these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6PC-REAR-LAT...c04bd4&vxp=mtr

    I've seen a couple different sellers/shops selling what look to be the same exact thing, and I need all these parts, so it seems like a decent deal. I like the look, and the adjustability, but I don't know if they are decent parts from a quality standpoint. I certainly don't want to use substandard parts. The OEM parts seem very expensive for what they are and look both a bit bland to me and they also not as strong. For those reasons I'm thinking aftermarket.

    Thanks for your help!

  33. #33
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xusia View Post
    My Knowledgeable Subie FRiends,

    Can I get your thoughts on these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6PC-REAR-LAT...c04bd4&vxp=mtr

    I've seen a couple different sellers/shops selling what look to be the same exact thing, and I need all these parts, so it seems like a decent deal. I like the look, and the adjustability, but I don't know if they are decent parts from a quality standpoint. I certainly don't want to use substandard parts. The OEM parts seem very expensive for what they are and look both a bit bland to me and they also not as strong. For those reasons I'm thinking aftermarket.

    Thanks for your help!
    I saw those, and other copies. Price seems great, but I researched the Subi forums... Everyone said to stay away/they are junk.

    That's why I stuck with OEM.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  34. #34
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Guns I think that bar will be way too thick, though it will be cool to try it out and see.

    The 2002 WRX had the largest swaybar, 20mm, after that they all went to 17mm

    my donor is an 05, so if I needed a little more I would go for one of those, they are less than $100 new and should give you a little more stiffness.


    Chad, Bar looks to be about 42.75" legs are about 6", and about 5.5 to the bolt center
    Last edited by longislandwrx; 08-30-2013 at 01:05 PM.
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  35. #35
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    I saw those, and other copies. Price seems great, but I researched the Subi forums... Everyone said to stay away/they are junk.

    That's why I stuck with OEM.
    I was worried those might have been the parts you saw. Any links to the posts you read about them?

    Any others have any experience at all with these?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xusia View Post
    My Knowledgeable Subie FRiends,

    Can I get your thoughts on these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6PC-REAR-LAT...c04bd4&vxp=mtr

    I've seen a couple different sellers/shops selling what look to be the same exact thing, and I need all these parts, so it seems like a decent deal. I like the look, and the adjustability, but I don't know if they are decent parts from a quality standpoint. I certainly don't want to use substandard parts. The OEM parts seem very expensive for what they are and look both a bit bland to me and they also not as strong. For those reasons I'm thinking aftermarket.

    Thanks for your help!
    Wayne will be selling a lot of parts soon (may already). I would keep an eye on his website. I'm probably going to end up buying some of my aftermarket arms and AWIC kit from him.

  37. #37
    rori's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    Can someone do me a favor? Could they measure the width of their sway bar, and the length of the arms? I don't have a stock one available. I'm thinking I can grab one from my sponsors and make it work, while not having all the crazy loops in it. It would be straight and clean. It may open up another market for them.
    If you're interested in selling those endlink mounts from your kit, I would be interested in them for my wagon. PM me if your willing to sell them. Thanks!

    This is from a stock 02 sedan 20mm rear bar:

    Between the eyelets is 42 1/4"



    From the middle of the bar to the middle of the eyelet is 7 3/4"


  38. #38
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
    Wayne will be selling a lot of parts soon (may already). I would keep an eye on his website. I'm probably going to end up buying some of my aftermarket arms and AWIC kit from him.
    I knew he was selling the trailing arms, but he told me was wasn't going to be selling lateral links because FFR had plans to do so. I just fear that if those links are OEM, they are going to more expensive than they really need to be.

  39. #39
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Thanks for the measurement guys. I think I can make something work, I talked to my friend. I'll know more once my 818R gets here in Oct.

    Specs- 22mm Hollow Bars (possibly 19mm too) which are extremely light, tons of adjustment, Bladed or normal arms. I may even be able to adapt cockpit adjustability (818R). Stay Tuned.
    Last edited by C.Plavan; 08-30-2013 at 07:14 PM.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  40. #40
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    Wayne Presley's Avatar
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    The smaller sway bars will probably be the way to go, the street car was a little loose with the splitter and no diffuser or spoiler. Add the spoiler and diffuser and the car had some understeer with the same front bar.
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

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