I did flip them. The manual is a little screwy on that part. It's says to do one thing but the pictures show another. I put them on the only way they would fit.
Mike
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I did flip them. The manual is a little screwy on that part. It's says to do one thing but the pictures show another. I put them on the only way they would fit.
Mike
Ahh- Yeah- that is confusing. Is that the "R" ride height?
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Not sure. Maybe I have them on wrong.
If the bushing is in the center of the two arms, what will flipping accomplish?
Mike
They are not in the center
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
The "arms" are different, one is flat and one has a bend. just rotate it.
Capture.JPG
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
easier to see in the picture I added.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Started working on the front brake lines. I have the braided lines and hard lines all in place. I did them a bit differently than the manual but the end result is the same.
Instead of running a line out to a T I decided to use one of the junction blocks right off the bias adjuster.
Here are pictures of how I ran the hard lines.
Here are the braided lines mounted to the calipers.
Mike, what's that blue stuff crushed under the upper triangle of the suspension in the 2nd to last pic?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
ball joint boot
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Ball joint boot. Looks terrible. It's not finalized yet. Doesn't fit very well
nice looking line routing! did you buy add'l lines or cut/flare as needed?
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
I'm really confused. In the pics it looks like the hard line that runs into the Wilwood bias adjuster is coming from the clutch master cylinder. I must be seeing something wrong.
Thanks, Mike. I'm just planning my brake lines and taking both fronts off the proportioning valve makes it much cleaner. I think I can mount the proportioning valve between the two masters.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
The clutch master has the fitting right on the front. You can see that its open.
Pete. If you mount it there just be aware it will be very difficult to get to when it comes time to adjust.
Dan: A little of both. I try to make them as neat and clean as possible. I bought a very good flare tool so it doesn't concern me to make custom lengths.
Mike
Real nice job on the t-fitting. I wished I did it that way. I did it like the 33 rear brakes.
I only have the old double bar flare tool, I'm really good at wasting brakeline stock! LOL I just bought the correct lengths... after... :-)
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Dan. There is only one way to make a perfect flare using that tool. Just forget to put the fitting on first. It will be perfect every time you forget.
Mike
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
Lol ditto
I wish there was a like button for comments, and a this happens to me all the time button.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
I did it too... sheepish grin
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Here is my attempt at the rear brake line. I threw the body side panel on first to make sure I had plenty of room.
I am using braided lines in place of the stock rubber lines. My stock ones were a mess.
I think the rear line came out pretty good. Too bad it will never be seen again. I plan to run the right side line down the tube and under the engine mounts. Then back up the right side tube to the other braided brake line.
Mike I really like your rear brake line setup. I hope you don't mind if I copy it.
I ran mine along the rear firewall, but I'll need to put a heatshield over it. I don't like how close to the headers it is.
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Looking good Mike. Keep up the pace. You will be done in no time.
Steve
MK 3.1 #6422, Complete Kit, 340hp Ford Racing Crate Engine, WC T-5 Trans, 3.55 Rear, Barcelona Red Mica Metallic, Silver Stripes
Now that my wife is commuting to and from Boston, It gives me a couple of hours at night to play in the garage. Here is some progress on my build.
My kit is now on all fours.
I have the Boyd Fuel tank installed now. It went pretty smooth. I put rubber bulb seal on the bottom and back side to protect it and stop any rattles.
I made up spacers for the mount points so that I would not bend the ears while tightening the bolts. These are needed due to the thickness of the weather stripping.
I also put dynamat (knock off) on the tank floor to help with noise. The rear fire wall will be insulated inside and out once the car is complete
The firewall is installed with 1/4-20 screws to make it removable in the future if needed.
Check the top corners for interference with the welds. If you want it to sit flat, you may need to notch these areas.
I didn't see any need with my height. Thought about it though.
Had some time this week to start cleaning up my drivetrain. Its really nasty. I didn't get very far, but here are some pics of the progress.
Here is the start as removed from the donor.
After cleaning, painting and powder coating
Here is the clutch slave cylinder. No before pic, but it was nasty. Its now powdercoated black.
Before shot of the coolant fill container.
After
The starter and slave look great.
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On your TGV delete did you remove the vanes/injector plates from the inside?
I'm getting ready to do mine but I'm on the fence if its the best move to remove and grind them off or leave them and just remove the shafts and butterflies? I know Grimmspeed removes it on the ones they sell.
tgv_vs_stock_600_3.jpg
All gone. No rod, no plates, no divider, no motor and sensor.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
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I left the divides. Everything else is gone.