Honolulu 818S Hana (work/build) Thread

[Aloha818]

Tested it today, 1.86K at 83F
Bob

Bob, your the best! Thanks! I'll try it out tomorrow and see if that clear the code.

[Aloha818]

Man I love this build! I want to see more pictures of it.

Full final photos will be coming in the next few weeks. Taken with a real camera and maybe a hula girl or two for fun!

[Aloha818]

This weekend I pretty much finished swapping in the newer guage pod and correcting a few wiring gremlins.

So today I started putting in the dash, hopefully for the last time. It always takes me longer to get things done as I always try and perfect the car. So first up the plastic lens on the guage pod had some light scratches, so I wet sanded it down, first with 1000 grit, then 2000 grit, then the 3step process of 3m polishing products/buffer, same as for the clear coat. Now like glass.

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I really didn't like the idea of drilling a hole in the face of my leather dash for the top screw to hold the pod. I can understand this location, as it makes a quick install, but since the dash has to be pulled to get the pod out, might as well hide all the fasteners. So I bent up a piece of aluminum, riveted with a 3/8" rivet through the existing hole in the back top. Then ground down the head of one of the 1/4"-20 screws and epoxied to the top of the dash. Then followed the FFR manual for the two lower connections. Although I did just rivet them in.

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Then onto the aluminum block off plate under the dash. I decided to keep the brake fluid reservoir in its FFR designed location. KISS reasoning. I don't have a clutch, so single reservoir. I cut a nice opening in the fiberglass and can reach in easily to get to the cap, so for something I might only need to access once a year maybe I think it's fine. A problem came up though when I went to install the block off plate.

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So a little metal fabrication later, I'm done. Still easy access to the fill cap from under the hood.

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I made some thick aluminum tabs to attach the dash to the crossbar. Attached the tabs to the dash with 2ea 3/8" rivets and then 1/4"-20 screws to the crossbar. I still needed to use 1/4" spacers between the tabs and the crossbar to drop the dash down some.

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I also installed the tweeters in the dash and then bolted the dash in with rivnuts. I didn't take a picture, but the dash to the steering column came out perfect. Between moving the whole column forward and the final location of the dash it couldn't have come out better. Just enough gap to not rub/squeak.

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I had run out of leather, my second order arrived so I was able to wrap the rearward aluminum center console cover I made. The emergency brake chrome trim piece will be wrapped with the faux carbon fiber to match the other trim pieces.

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Still a few wires to clean up and a few more pieces of aluminum to wrap with leather, but getting closer!

[rcarhi]

Thanks for the info. I will definitely be looking for a better way!

[wleehendrick]

Tomorrow I can put it all back together again!

Before you do that, get one of Larry's EEPROMS to reset the mileage!

[Quiny]

How to you secure the dash to the back of the windshield frame? (where the dash and windshield meet)It would be a shame to drill holes through the top face of it.

[Wayne Presley]

It slides into the pocket made by the frame and glass.

[Aloha818]

Tested it today, 1.86K at 83F
Bob

Bob, busy week, but added a 1.96k resistor that I had around today and that cleared the code, thanks!

Now I have codes PO443 and PO446, more research.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, busy week, but added a 1.96k resistor that I had around today and that cleared the code, thanks!

Now I have codes PO443 and PO446, more research.

Both of those are related to the purge control valve and the non OEM gas tank.
You may have to turn them off in the ECU code.
Bob

[metalmaker12]

How to you secure the dash to the back of the windshield frame? (where the dash and windshield meet)It would be a shame to drill holes through the top face of it.

Heavy grab Velcro works perfect.

[Aloha818]

Both of those are related to the purge control valve and the non OEM gas tank.
You may have to turn them off in the ECU code.
Bob

Is that possible? My donor was a 2000 model.

[Aloha818]

Today I decided to give it a quick wash, drive it around the block, and take some pics. Still have to tuck in some wires, wrap a few more pieces of trim, adjust the trunk latches, cut and buff the paint, build a bikini top, line the trunk, wait, I still have so much to do!

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[Aloha818]

Some detail, interior shots

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Other than the missing interior bits, see anything that says "Kit Car"?

[AZPete]

Wow. I think it says production car. Expensive production car.
I've just spent 40 minutes admiring, expanding, drooling over your photos. I've admired your workmanship and creativity for months and especially like your tasteful, understated approach. Now that it's out on the streets it will be interesting to hear the reactions you get.

[wleehendrick]

Hot damn! Looks great.

Since you asked, (I feel like I'm nit picking) the only non-oem/kit car aspect are the right angles in the interior aluminum. You've trimmed it out nicely, but theres really no practical way to replicate production, injected molded, interior trim. Dont get me wrong, its gorgeous, but the kick panel area is the only area visible that would seem out of place on a new production car.

Great job!

[Hindsight]

Looks amazing! I didn't think I was going to like that spoiler but it looks great!! Has a last-gen Lotus Esprit look to it.... which is a good thing IMHO.

[metalmaker12]

Nice job!!

[shinn497]

Keep taking photos of this amazing build please.

[longislandwrx]

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Other than the missing interior bits, see anything that says "Kit Car"?

Looks amazing! but since you asked, the dash could use a little contrast.

[Aloha818]

Wow. I think it says production car. Expensive production car.
I've just spent 40 minutes admiring, expanding, drooling over your photos. I've admired your workmanship and creativity for months and especially like your tasteful, understated approach. Now that it's out on the streets it will be interesting to hear the reactions you get.

Looks amazing! I didn't think I was going to like that spoiler but it looks great!! Has a last-gen Lotus Esprit look to it.... which is a good thing IMHO.

Nice job!!

Keep taking photos of this amazing build please.

Thanks guys for the positive reinforcement!

I will be starting on the bikini top next while I continue to finish odds and ends. More pics to follow.

[Aloha818]

Hot damn! Looks great.

Since you asked, (I feel like I'm nit picking) the only non-oem/kit car aspect are the right angles in the interior aluminum. You've trimmed it out nicely, but theres really no practical way to replicate production, injected molded, interior trim. Dont get me wrong, its gorgeous, but the kick panel area is the only area visible that would seem out of place on a new production car.

Great job!

Looks amazing! but since you asked, the dash could use a little contrast.

Thanks for the compliments and taking time to reply. I'm open to suggestions to improve the interior trim out. Part of the reason I haven't gone farther. I'm really concerned about water damage so just wrapping everything with carpet is not an option. Probably the last item I'll do is get some custom floor mats for the driver and passenger floor boards. Black with some red accents. That way if any rain/water I can just pull out the floor mats to dry.

As far as the side walls I'm still thinking, that's why I just painted with bedliner as black looks better than bare aluminum for now. The center console top cover is loosely based on the F-type, flat top with 90* return. I have been toying with the idea to shape up some leather covered more radius bent metal panels to cover the the more sharply bent FFR aluminum panels for a cleaner look. There is a good amount of footwell area so taking a little away shouldn't be too intrusive.

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Since the 818 does not have HVAC the dash is a little plain without all the air vents.

Again, open for suggestions.

[wleehendrick]

Part of the reason I haven't gone farther. I'm really concerned about water damage so just wrapping everything with carpet is not an option. Probably the last item I'll do is get some custom floor mats for the driver and passenger floor boards. Black with some red accents. That way if any rain/water I can just pull out the floor mats to dry.

I understand! Whenever my wife and I visit the Islands, we usually rent a convertible or Jeep and often get hit with a surprise shower. At least SoCal's 'rainy season' is pretty predictable.

As far as the side walls I'm still thinking, that's why I just painted with bedliner as black looks better than bare aluminum for now. The center console top cover is loosely based on the F-type, flat top with 90* return. I have been toying with the idea to shape up some leather covered more radius bent metal panels to cover the the more sharply bent FFR aluminum panels for a cleaner look. There is a good amount of footwell area so taking a little away shouldn't be too intrusive.

Yeah, a little longer radius on the center console, and covering all the origami in the footwell would go a long way to a more production look. I'm not going to bother, though.

Since the 818 does not have HVAC the dash is a little plain without all the air vents.

Again, open for suggestions.

I like your dash, simple and clean. I did copy you and ordered the same material from fabricdaddy. However, I only covered the upper piece with it. I painted the lower curve and sides gloss black (used flat black in the instrument bezel), and spiced up the vertical face with a strip of 3M Scotchprint faux CF:

[Mitch Wright]

Beautiful, fantastic job.

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks for the compliments and taking time to reply. I'm open to suggestions to improve the interior trim out. Part of the reason I haven't gone farther. I'm really concerned about water damage so just wrapping everything with carpet is not an option. Probably the last item I'll do is get some custom floor mats for the driver and passenger floor boards. Black with some red accents. That way if any rain/water I can just pull out the floor mats to dry.

As far as the side walls I'm still thinking, that's why I just painted with bedliner as black looks better than bare aluminum for now. The center console top cover is loosely based on the F-type, flat top with 90* return. I have been toying with the idea to shape up some leather covered more radius bent metal panels to cover the the more sharply bent FFR aluminum panels for a cleaner look. There is a good amount of footwell area so taking a little away shouldn't be too intrusive.

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Since the 818 does not have HVAC the dash is a little plain without all the air vents.

Again, open for suggestions.

I prepped mine for simple high grade black vinyl on the sides, water should not be a problem. Then use custom fit carpets for the floor that are removable, or rubber mats

vinyl on the side walls will look much more "finished" than the bedliner.

[riptide motorsport]

Beautiful....incredible work!

[Kalstar]

Looks outstanding. Hard to improve what you have done. As for flooring I would look into carpets from Jeeps, designed to drain quickly and not smell. Cut to size and make removable via strong Velcro.

[Aloha818]

I understand! Whenever my wife and I visit the Islands, we usually rent a convertible or Jeep and often get hit with a surprise shower. At least SoCal's 'rainy season' is pretty predictable.



Yeah, a little longer radius on the center console, and covering all the origami in the footwell would go a long way to a more production look. I'm not going to bother, though.



I like your dash, simple and clean. I did copy you and ordered the same material from fabricdaddy. However, I only covered the upper piece with it. I painted the lower curve and sides gloss black (used flat black in the instrument bezel), and spiced up the vertical face with a strip of 3M Scotchprint faux CF:

Your dash turned out great! Thanks for sharing.

[Aloha818]

Dan, thanks, and thanks for commenting.

[Aloha818]

Beautiful....incredible work!

Thanks, it's been fun to kind of make my own and build.

Looks outstanding. Hard to improve what you have done. As for flooring I would look into carpets from Jeeps, designed to drain quickly and not smell. Cut to size and make removable via strong Velcro.

I appreciate the compliments and comments. I need to do some research, there has to be a vendor out there can has those water proof materials that can custom shape floor mats from a template.

[AZPete]

Re rain water, most of the roadster guys drill a hole or two in the floor to let it drain out. The 818 has open slots in the rear of the floor boards so I'll leave those open, but covered with removable carpet. Like you did, I also sealed the panels under the seats - water can drain to the floor and out the slots.

I also drilled 3/8" holes in the corners of the panel under the battery compartment because water can come in from the hood vents or through the radiator to pool up deep enough for ducks.

[wleehendrick]

Your dash turned out great! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks; you inspired to do something nicer with it.

[nkw8181]

Now that is simply sexy!

I understand! Whenever my wife and I visit the Islands, we usually rent a convertible or Jeep and often get hit with a surprise shower. At least SoCal's 'rainy season' is pretty predictable.



Yeah, a little longer radius on the center console, and covering all the origami in the footwell would go a long way to a more production look. I'm not going to bother, though.



I like your dash, simple and clean. I did copy you and ordered the same material from fabricdaddy. However, I only covered the upper piece with it. I painted the lower curve and sides gloss black (used flat black in the instrument bezel), and spiced up the vertical face with a strip of 3M Scotchprint faux CF:

[nkw8181]

Now that is simply sexy!

I understand! Whenever my wife and I visit the Islands, we usually rent a convertible or Jeep and often get hit with a surprise shower. At least SoCal's 'rainy season' is pretty predictable.



Yeah, a little longer radius on the center console, and covering all the origami in the footwell would go a long way to a more production look. I'm not going to bother, though.



I like your dash, simple and clean. I did copy you and ordered the same material from fabricdaddy. However, I only covered the upper piece with it. I painted the lower curve and sides gloss black (used flat black in the instrument bezel), and spiced up the vertical face with a strip of 3M Scotchprint faux CF:

[nkw8181]

Umm not sure how the double post happened

[Mechie3]

I just searched but didn't see if you mentioned what you did for the tops of the door cards. FFR says to put the top of the card on top of the door. I don't like the exposed screws and couldn't see any in your photos. Did you tuck it inside?

[bbjones121]

Looks amazing!

[Aloha818]

I just searched but didn't see if you mentioned what you did for the tops of the door cards. FFR says to put the top of the card on top of the door. I don't like the exposed screws and couldn't see any in your photos. Did you tuck it inside?

So I riveted a piece of 1" angle to the inside top of the door, and after I cut the top of the door card the same width along the top and wrapped with leather, I used Velcro to hold the door card in place. No visible fasteners. If you look close in my last round of pics you can see the silver top of the rivets and the door cards not tight to the door. I used some lightweight Velcro because I didn't want to tear something up to get the door cards off and on. Now I need to switch to the heavy duty version.

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[Mechie3]

So the Velcro is on the vertical surface of the door card and the part of the card on top of the door just did there?

[longislandwrx]

I think the way the door cards hit the dash at a 90 (not just on your car, but all of them) is what really screams kit car.

The gtm dash and doors really sculpt around you making it feel like a much more finished interior.

I think the flatness of the doors needs to be addressed for a more oem like feel.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I just searched but didn't see if you mentioned what you did for the tops of the door cards. FFR says to put the top of the card on top of the door. I don't like the exposed screws and couldn't see any in your photos. Did you tuck it inside?

Craig,
Did you see this in the manual update?
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