FormaCars

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  10
Likes Likes:  65

View Poll Results: How to finish the mesh panels?

Voters
57. You may not vote on this poll
  • Gloss Black

    47 82.46%
  • Unfinished Aluminum

    10 17.54%
Page 13 of 16 FirstFirst ... 31112131415 ... LastLast
Results 481 to 520 of 619

Thread: mikeb75's build thread

  1. #481
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Congrats on the new job, and thanks for sharing. I too find myself taking on more and more challenging projects since I started building my 818. Two weeks ago my dryer stopped putting out any heat, so my wife said I’d better call someone to get it fixed. I was like “I can build a car, how hard could this be?” My wife rolled her eyes as I started tearing the dryer apart and smirked as I was sat on the floor covered in lint watching YouTube videos. But it wasn’t all that hard and I’d fixed it for less then what a repair guy would charge for just showing up. Still not sure where the extra screw came from, haha.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  2. #482
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like
    Ha, only one leftover bolt from the reassembly! And I know exactly where it goes... Just couldn't be arsed to put it back behind the drivers side cylinder head for a support bracket
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  3. #483
    Senior Member mistasherm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    East Central PA
    Posts
    132
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mike - CONGRATS ON THE JOB! Thanks for coming by the garage and checking out my build. Now that you are "local" during the workday we will have to meet work for a "working lunch" (build/car talk) at the Harbor when the weather turns.
    Ty

  4. #484
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Bowling Green, KY
    Posts
    1,382
    Post Thanks / Like
    Congratulations Mike on your new job.

  5. #485
    818r center seat biknman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Charm City
    Posts
    138
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    4
    Congrats maybe we can do lunch one day since you closer to Ty and myself?
    FFR 818r Instagram biknman69
    2020 Ram 2500HD, 19 Forester Touring DD, 96 GM coupe for SCCA SM
    “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.”
    • Ernest Hemingway

  6. #486
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks everyone! Looking forward to starting next week. And definitely we will have to try to get together for lunch once I figure out where everything is

    Was hoping to have an 818 related post today since I took the car in for my 'emissions' inspection - which I knew I would fail since the car runs a JDM ECU now, but after speaking with the site manager I have to wait to hear back from the MVA to schedule an interview/inspection by a VEIP manager to get an exemption. Not exactly the information I got from the MVA help line - I was under the impression the site manager would be able to do it... a bit aggravating since I expected to have everything done today while I still had 'free' time to do it.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  7. #487
    Senior Member mistasherm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    East Central PA
    Posts
    132
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mike - hmmmm, I too was under the impression that the emissions site manager could produce the necessary paperwork and disposition needed to obtain the state exemption. Please document your experience if you get the chance or grab any contact information from those that prove to be helpful. I am sure it will all work out though.
    Ty

  8. #488
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like
    Emissions exemption done. Total non-event, talked to the guy, submitted my exemption paperwork, drove to VEIP station and five minutes later had exemption certificate.

    I had to supply my insurance declaration stating the car was a pleasure vehicle not to be driven more than 1000 miles per year, pictures of the front, rear, side, interior and engine compartment.

    The most exciting part, other than driving the car on a 32 degree day to/from Frederick was springing a coolant leak and having the engine compartment full of steam. And it was a pretty serious leak, because after I pulled into a shopping center to let it cool down and add water all the water ended up in a puddle under the car. -_-

    Probably a hose let go, or maybe the barb on the cross over pipe to degas (Wayne md). Won't know until I get the car up and the belly pan off. Not ideal since auto-x season starts in 1 week... But such is the joy of a car I built
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  9. #489
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,732
    Post Thanks / Like
    Sorry about the laying off but Congrats on the new job! loll
    And also congrats on the exemption!! YEAH!!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  10. #490
    Senior Member mistasherm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    East Central PA
    Posts
    132
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mike - sorry to hear about the coolant adventure....congrats on the emissions exemption - you have blazed the trail for me when the time comes.

  11. #491
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like

    Well, at least its not terminal

    TL;DR - elbow radiator hose from POS donor sprang a pinhole leak.

    Finally got a chance to get the car up on stands (yesterday's nice weather and my strong desire to get back to driving/tracking the car helped). Pulled the belly pan and added water to the upper coolant tank but didn't immediately see the leak. Started the car, threw a CEL and about barfed... but pulled the code and it was just MAF under voltage - low battery will do that.

    Finally opened my front bleed valve to start flushing the system and heard the relieving trickle of fluid on the floor (not from me). Peeked under and saw the culprit - a pinhole leak in the rubber elbow from the crossover outlet to the corrugated tube. That's an easy enough fix. $15 from Amazon and a Gates replacement is on the way (those crazy Mishimoto players... charging $100 for a replacement silicon hose kit -- sure it will make the car faster, but don't have that kind of coin burning a hole in my wallet these days ).

    The moral of the story: if you donor was a million mile pile, change out the rubber hoses.

    (and hoping that was the only problem)
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  12. #492
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,732
    Post Thanks / Like
    At least you, you get your parts shipped! lolll

    Rubber hoses are incredible! They can withstand a crazy amount of time/mileage IF left on the engine without touching them. But as soon as you remove them, they die.

    When should we expect our next video?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  13. #493
    Senior Member mistasherm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    East Central PA
    Posts
    132
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mike - drop me a line when you have an AutoX weekend planned - would love to come out and see the rig in action.
    220,221 whatever it takes....

  14. #494
    818r center seat biknman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Charm City
    Posts
    138
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by mistasherm View Post
    Mike - drop me a line when you have an AutoX weekend planned - would love to come out and see the rig in action.
    Ditto :-)
    FFR 818r Instagram biknman69
    2020 Ram 2500HD, 19 Forester Touring DD, 96 GM coupe for SCCA SM
    “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.”
    • Ernest Hemingway

  15. #495
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like
    Soon -I hope!
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  16. #496
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like

    From little beginnings

    Ok, haven't had anywhere near enough time to work on or drive the car since Feb (job... not that I want to be unemployed... just sayin'), but finally got a few minutes over the glorious weekend to take care of some jobs that needed to be done.


    I replaced the lower ball joints at the front corners. The first I had nicked the dust boot when originally installing and it wasn't holding any grease - rather is squeezed it out all over the lower suspension arm. The second I bashed the threads when removing the wrong one (sad, but I forgot which was good and which was bad).

    But the real reason I was working on the front end was 0* camber. That sucked. I wore down the outer shoulders of the tires rubbing on the fenders when auto-xing, so this needed to be fixed. I had bought a tool quite a while ago with the intention of cutting the threaded studs on the upper arms, and amazingly my plan worked out perfectly.

    Go Harbor Freight!
    20180708_134232.jpg
    Their portable band saw made the most perfect cuts on the threaded studs and the hex couplings. Never before have I cut anything threaded and not had to clean out the threads - until now. We trimmed 3/4" from the longer (fixed) threaded stud. I had measured that there was 7/8" difference between the longer fixed and the shorter swivel threaded stud, but kind of chickened out and backed off a bit. Still came out pretty good - the adjuster is about perfectly centered now and am still able to get both jam nuts on after I trimmed the very ends of the adjuster.
    20180708_134217.jpg
    20180708_141506.jpg
    20180708_142055.jpg

    Ballparking with the jack and a level it looks like we are able to get a fair amount of negative camber now. As soon as I get a chance to get the front re-aligned I'll report back with the results.
    20180708_143730.jpg
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  17. Likes biknman liked this post
  18. #497
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just got the car aligned. Pretty much maxed out the adjustment range as it sits:

    Front
    camber -2.9 -2.8
    caster 2.0 2.6
    toe .03 .03

    Rear:
    camber -2.4 -2.4
    toe 0.07 0.08

    got to check my records, think the toe settings are wonky, but it sure is nice to have some actual camber up front. Car feels a little darty, may be from additional front bite and the slop in the steering (quick release or play in steering column actual mount).

    the guys at the shop also showed me that if I can get the rear lower arm mounts to slide outboard (the holes are slotted), that would help a lot with the caster.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  19. #498
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Williamsburg VA
    Posts
    105
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb75 View Post
    Just got the car aligned. Pretty much maxed out the adjustment range as it sits:

    Front
    camber -2.9 -2.8
    caster 2.0 2.6
    toe .03 .03

    Rear:
    camber -2.4 -2.4
    toe 0.07 0.08

    got to check my records, think the toe settings are wonky, but it sure is nice to have some actual camber up front. Car feels a little darty, may be from additional front bite and the slop in the steering (quick release or play in steering column actual mount).

    the guys at the shop also showed me that if I can get the rear lower arm mounts to slide outboard (the holes are slotted), that would help a lot with the caster.
    Hey with those Caster number the car will feel darty. It will get worse the faster you go. The more Caster you can add will stop the darty feel and help it be stable at speed. Try getting above 4 degrees for the street and see how much that helps.

  20. #499
    Administrator
    Wayne Presley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Enterprise Alabama
    Posts
    2,804
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    3
    what tires and springs are you running?
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  21. #500
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like
    Stock road springs that came with the kit. 350# up front and 275# back

    The tires are 225 and 255 F/R
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  22. #501
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like
    ...and while at the shop I heard stories of track damage from splitters being pulled off cars at speed. I had some stand-offs sitting on a shelf and finally got around to installing them. Splitter bling:
    20180804_155953.jpg
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  23. #502
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    207
    Post Thanks / Like
    I've been wondering about those splitter supports. I'm considering getting the splitter myself, but have no idea how those are secured - are they connected to anything structural, or is it just to the fiberglass?

    Also, where did you get those, they look great!

  24. #503
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like
    Amazon. Like 1/2 of my car...

    Just have washers on the backside of the fiberglass.

    Thanks!
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  25. #504
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like

    Longest delayed update EVER

    sooooo, I'm about to install a brand spanking new part on the car (which has laid dormant for over a year):
    20190726_104554 1.jpg

    Light weight lugnuts, YEA!

    Doesn't really tell the full saga of the past year... but seriously, Light Weight LUGNUTS!

    More details? They're from Amazon (of course) and I bought them to replace the stripped out seven sided lugnuts that got stripped out because my lug nut tool split and was spinning on the old ones and rounded off the points...

    Wait, what? Oh, more details on the 1 year hiatus. Sure:

    Fuel tank was leaking because of my crap weld job from; so I was replacing that, which required pulling out the interior of the car. Replaced it with a 2nd hand Boyd's welding tank (not from Amazon). After I finished that installation I went to pressure test the lines and found no power from the battery to the kill switch, I had uncrimped the ring terminal during all the maneuvering to get the center tunnel out.

    I put a new ring-terminal on the hot lead and started trying to verify everything, but was getting really weird issues of the ECU and relays not powering up, but the cluster sort of did. After a few hours of tracing things with a multimeter I got really frustrated and in a fit of spite pulled every wire out of the car, boxed it up and sent it off to iWire (well, that's almost the story).
    20190304_074845.jpg
    So that took a few months to turn around, but the harness is super awesome and I'm totally glad I did it...
    20190607_141948.jpg
    20190608_183100.jpg

    ...until I installed it and flipped the main power... and nothing - well almost nothing, same symptoms as before with inconsistent relays, cluster sort of lighting up and no ECU readings. So I tested the battery... 11.8 v and no current... borked. Could have saved myself a few bucks replacing that first.

    So after that little adventure I then managed to arc the coolant line when installing the battery (you know, the fantastic corrugated hose) which pin-holed it - so that needed to be replaced. In hindsight, total boneheaded move to rely on as much of the corrugated tube as I did, that stuff is really low-rent. Now I've put in as much new radiator hose as possible in that area:
    20190615_110652.jpg

    Then I added some spacers to the front control arm rear mounts to add more caster to the alignment, fabbed up a new center console switch plate and re-mounted the seats in a more upright orientation so the car is easier to get in and out of. I'm sure I'm forgetting some other details, but finally... ready to rock -again, 3rd time's the charm?
    20190704_130632.jpg
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  26. Likes sgarrett, Canadian818 liked this post
  27. #505
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like

    Doors Done Definitely, Dammit part 1

    Happy Furloughmass to me… but since I’ve almost caught up on the neglected years of home projects (almost), I’ve finally got a bit of time to return to the garage and revisit the 818.
    The doors have always bothered me, there’s always been a little rub and misalignment… and don’t get me started on the windows. So, the first task is getting the coupe door livable. A lot of the fixes I’ve done are common sense and probably things that the good builders have already thought of and done… (I am by no means one of the good builders!), but just maybe there’s a trick or two in here that could be helpful to someone else who’s spent hours and hours open and closing and mounting and remounting, and with that:

    Allez Cuisine!

    After stripping the inner door card and outer skin and pulling off the felt door trim gasket (for sealing the window), I decided the first most important thing to check and fix was the alignment of the door frame. I realize now that the travel path of the door frame has to be as close to level as possible to have the door skin not rub on the side sail (all together now: duhhhhha). As a derp-test I taped an indicator (Allen wrench) to the top of the door frame and made sure the path it described as the door opened/closed was flat.

    https://youtu.be/fgv9WPMUSjg

    Also, of note I observed a lot of wear marks on the side sail at the door hinge. I know that’s from not having enough clearance between the door skin and the side sail, so I re-mounted the door frame with the maximum clearance from the side sail. On the passenger door of my build that is 5 thicknesses of an Amazon A-3 sized box cardboard or about 3/8”. That puts the door frame/door hinge at the bottom of the possible adjustment. In hindsight it that might be 1 or 2mm too much – the final panel gap between the mounted door skin is slightly too big.

    Because this is a fix of an existing build, I didn’t adjust the door striker at all; that’s pretty much fixed in place from earlier efforts. The other guidance on this forum for locating and mounting the striker plate is pretty good. I will note there are 2 clicks as the latch enters the striker; the first one seems to be a light engagement, but I assumed the second one was the correct point of the door being properly closed. The second click is what I based my measurements and alignments off of.

    Once the door frame alignment was fixed, I needed to deal with another shortcoming (IMHO) of the way the doors are constructed. I’ve always had the feeling that the doors sagged after they were completely assembled. Additionally, since you are almost required to remove the doors at some stage of the build, I don’t think I ever got them to align the same way repeatably. I think the issue is the amount of adjustability that is built into the door hinge mounting tab. I’d spend a ridiculous amount of time trying to perfect the alignment and minimize rub -using cardboard or stir sticks or wedges or whatever, but after fully assembling the door and going for a final test the rub would always return. I’d tried tightening down the frame to hinge bolts to a ridiculous amount (like 150 ft/lbs.), but in hindsight that’s just the wrong approach.

    After perfecting the alignment and tightening down the hinge hardware, I drilled and tapped some locator holes. Now I had both a reference point for the perfect alignment and a bit of extra insurance that after assembly the frame wouldn’t sag because of slop in the hinges/adjustments. As (an inadvertent) confirmation during one of the test fittings, I forgot to tighten down the hinge bolts past finger tight, but I had installed the alignment bolts - and the door both aligned and swung perfectly. I think of anything this is my strongest recommendation to other builders having issues with the alignment, but it can be a real PITA to get the holes located and the alignment bolts installed, so it makes the job of hanging/removing the doors even more time consuming.
    20200419_145747.jpg
    20200419_171020.jpg
    20200420_152010.jpg

    While I was drilling and tapping holes, I added one to limit the hinge travel - as other builders have done to replace the FFR supplied part that does the same but is not adjustable.
    20200419_171015.jpg

    The final task of this stage was to clean up the wear marks on the side sail. Just a quick sand/wetsand to remove the worst of it and then a few coats of spray paint and it looks not awful.
    20200420_153106.jpg
    20200420_153036.jpg

    https://youtu.be/ILy34_bJnhI

    Next up: I’m still waiting for a few items in the mail, but I am planning on dealing with the hard top window trim and window glass alignment/travel.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  28. Likes AZPete, Kurk818 liked this post
  29. #506
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like

    Doors Done Definitely, Dammit part 2

    Somewhere during assembly of my passenger door I trimmed the bottom edge of the door skin, probably because it wasn’t aligned properly and was having interference when closing. Fiberglass guy to the rescue – 1 layer of fabric, 2 layers of chopped mat and a whole bunch of filler fixed the worst of the missing door skin. Actually, it fixed it too much… needed to trim back a bit to give clearance to the inner door card.

    The next part of DDDD is replacing the not really great hard top window trim. Yes, the felted trim would be nice – if it would actually stay on. I measured the thickness of the hard top shell edge and it’s not even close to the thickness of the felt trim. I had mangled it pretty bad the first time it was installed, and it wouldn’t stay on reliably. I had considered gluing it on, but taking a second look and then doing a quick ebay search I found some 3/8” side bulb weather strip that looked like it might work.

    The new trim goes on easier. The radius at the sharp corner of the window opening is close (I didn’t want to crease the bulb). But the real test is in the raising/lowering of the window. I am happy to report that after backing off the top adjuster of the window track and the roller wheels I have a window that raises and lowers smoothly and properly aligns/engages the sealing bulb along the entire length. I think I actually had it adjusted to a nearly perfect fit/seal along the entire edge.
    20200424_115321.jpg
    20200424_120107.jpg
    20200424_120118.jpg

    But then I needed to mess it up again. I know some other builds (Lance & Art?) have looked at fixing the slop by fabricating additional/replacement bushings on the track. I am going to take a different track (excuse the pun). Using 5/8” C channel and some felted window channel yields some functional guide tracks to keep the sides of the window better aligned. But the curve of the window track prevents using straight guide tracks and I don’t have a practical way to bend the C channel, so I’m going for alignment tracks for the full-up position of the window. Experimenting here, but if I keep the tracks shorter (4 to 6”) and position them just so - the window glass feeds into the track and rides it up when fully closed. I’m working a mounting solution right now, but my cheap welding helmet decided to stop working… so I had to abort that attempt. Here is what I have so far:
    20200424_175748.jpg
    20200424_175736.jpg
    20200424_170140.jpg
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  30. #507

    Yes, I love Technology
    aquillen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    752
    Post Thanks / Like
    I called FFR and was told to grind or sand down the thickness of the frame for their bulb seal. I found the 3/8" stuff as well and like it too. Played with window track channel but not where you are putting it. It doesn't take to bending as you note. I guess this is one of the "funner" parts of the build. Over on the hot rod truck forum they seem to have similar "challenges".

  31. #508
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like
    This definitely counts as the "fiddley bits"... can sink a ton of hours into them and not have much to show (already have a ton of those). I have an idea of what I'm working towards here (for a change), we'll see if the execution comes out anywhere near where the vision is.

    Art, I think you do a much better job executing on your vision, I'm in awe of some of the work you've done on your build!
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  32. #509
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Hamersville, Ohio
    Posts
    795
    Post Thanks / Like
    I’ve found that a 2003 S-10 window track curvature perfectly matches the curve of the side windows at the edges. Use the channel guide that comes with it. Put a guide on the front AND the rear edges of the window. This is what I’m using now.

  33. Likes AZPete liked this post
  34. #510
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,732
    Post Thanks / Like
    MIKE!!!!!!!!!!!! Welcome back home!

    The doors aren't easy to align, I remember you had trouble a couple of years ago! Your project looks awesome and deserves the time you put on it to make adjustments. And drive it, drive it as much as you can!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  35. Likes mikeb75 liked this post
  36. #511
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like

    Doors Done Definitely, Dammit part 3

    For some reason I decided to re-do 2 bathrooms over the past few weeks instead of working full time on the 818 (hellooo -wife, +2 spousal points). So, it’s taken me a lot longer to work through this idea that it should.

    The leading edge of the door/window/hard top transition has always bothered me, the gap and unfinished look seems odd, so I had the bright idea to try to mold up a part to fill in that transition and blend in the front window track. That started a crash course in fiberglass molding… (actually, I’ve been looking at it for a while now for other ideas… that are more ambitious). After a few aborted attempts I think I understand enough about the materials now.

    Pink Panther foam board seems to be the preferred plug making material, it’s definitely easy to work with for shaping. However, it reacts badly with Evercoat fillers and spray paint primers, but it does play nice with West System epoxy. Knowing that now, I will be doing a rough shape in foam and then a sealer coat of just epoxy (with glass if needed), then filler and sanding and sealing.
    The next trick was figuring out how to make a tooling gelcoat mold from that shape. Since this is a bit of a 3d sketch in foam, I didn’t have a clear idea of exactly what I was trying to make. For a while I was thinking a complete part with both sides finished, so it would require either a split mold or 2 molds where the part would be joined. Ultimately, I set my ambitions a bit lower and have just concentrated on creating the outer shell that will be bonded to the door skin to fill in the relief at the A-pillar.
    20200502_172636.jpg

    It took me 2 tries to get the flanges figured out, cardboard is not your friend in this case… but attempt 2 was with some cheap particle board and an angled cut of 2x4 that was detachable so I could disassemble it post mold making, and that worked out pretty well. A bit of cleanup on the mold and it was time to try my first layup…
    20200515_203637.jpg
    20200520_172902.jpg

    And out pops my first ever part… looks kind of rough. I need to get some cutting compound and polish the mold, 1000 grit isn’t good enough. But still, my first part 😊. Trimmed it and put it in place… let’s see how it looks.

    before:
    20200520_195555.jpg
    after:
    20200520_195546.jpg

    A little filler and some blending and it should match up with the door skin and the new window rail.
    20200520_194922.jpg
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  37. Likes DSR-3, AZPete, Kurk818, Mitch Wright liked this post
  38. #512

    Yes, I love Technology
    aquillen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    752
    Post Thanks / Like
    Way to go - excellent work.

  39. #513
    Senior Member Flamshackle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Aotearoa (New Zealand)
    Posts
    648
    Post Thanks / Like
    Good to see the progress. Watching with interest mate.
    __________________________________________________ _____________

    That man is no fool, who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
    __________________________________________________ _____________

  40. #514
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like

    Doors Done Definitely, Dammit part 4

    Bonded the part and two rounds of filler, primer and a quick Plastidip spray later:
    20200521_173926.jpg
    20200522_122406.jpg
    20200522_203038.jpg
    20200522_205049.jpg

    ...not too bad. There is always a line when I cut in a patched section of Plastidip... but the body lines don't look too bad. The 'dip exposed one rough spot near the front... but overall the blend worked out pretty well.
    Last edited by mikeb75; 05-25-2020 at 06:09 PM.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  41. Likes AZPete liked this post
  42. #515
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    2,374
    Post Thanks / Like
    I really admire your innovative solution to this problem as you extended the door. I spent many hours trying to fill that gap and eventually made a rubber piece from bulb seal and rubber slabs, but it doesn't look as nice as your work, and doesn't seal as well for wind noise and water. Great innovation and execution!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  43. Thanks mikeb75 thanked for this post
    Likes Frank818 liked this post
  44. #516
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    I really admire your innovative solution to this problem as you extended the door. I spent many hours trying to fill that gap and eventually made a rubber piece from bulb seal and rubber slabs, but it doesn't look as nice as your work, and doesn't seal as well for wind noise and water. Great innovation and execution!
    Thanks, AZPete! That's really high praise; I consider your 'C the gold standard for builds!
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  45. Thanks AZPete thanked for this post
    Likes Frank818 liked this post
  46. #517
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,732
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb75 View Post
    Thanks, AZPete! That's really high praise; I consider your 'C the gold standard for builds!
    You damn right he is!!!


    That reminds me, if you still have door alignment issues and really want to fix that for good and never ever have an alignment issue again, just bond the doors to the side pods. Just saying!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  47. Thanks AZPete thanked for this post
  48. #518
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    2,374
    Post Thanks / Like
    Frank, I like your way of thinking. If you'd like to never fix anything again on your engine, bond the rear panels to the side pods. Let's see, if I welded my lug nuts on . . .
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  49. #519
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    That reminds me, if you still have door alignment issues and really want to fix that for good and never ever have an alignment issue again, just bond the doors to the side pods. Just saying!
    Yup. Would definitely fix the alignment/gap for good... however, short though I am... not that short
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  50. #520
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    684
    Post Thanks / Like

    Doors Done Definitely, Dammit part 5

    Final assembly time. Used the new (old) door skins from the S, so non-padded… weight savings or something.

    Didn’t like inner door release options… the donor ones didn’t fit right and the new ones from the C refit were… well really low rent. So I saw that some of the RS Porsches use a release strap… I can do that.
    20200525_155428.jpg
    20200525_163907.jpg
    20200525_174208.jpg

    Put everything together and re-aligned the door. The grab handle was causing interference with the side sail/upper trim piece… sigh. But a little grinding and hammering mostly fixed that.
    20200525_174321.jpg

    (action shot)
    https://youtu.be/UdntEvSdhwk

    so all done... except there's a 2nd door (glad it's only 2 and not a 4 door)...
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  51. Likes Canadian818 liked this post
Page 13 of 16 FirstFirst ... 31112131415 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Stewart Transport

Visit our community sponsor