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Thread: Charles's '33 build Page

  1. #41
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrel View Post

    IMHO there is no need to do anything to the firewall if you just remove enough material from the side notch on the passenger side footbox to increase that notch by 1/4". This allows you to lift the body enough to sit on the top of the firewall and keeps it all symmetrical. If the picture is confusing it's because my car is right hand drive.
    Thanks Barrel for you help. I already ground the radius of the firewall a bit but still need some more to make it fit properly. I might just take it from the area you mentioned. Thanks again!

  2. #42
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    I got the main body mounted finally and had to compromise some. These bodies are not built very symmetrical at all. When I leveled the rear of the body, then the gaps from the top of the tires to wheel wells were off from each side. Even though you can't see both sides at he same time, I still wanted it to look as close to even as possible. I split the difference and just went with it. To the eye, you can't really tell it's off any and happy with that.

    That is about as far as I got before feeling a little unsure of my ability to trim the doors and panels. The trunk lid seems pretty straight forward and looks like it only needs minor trimming which I plan on sanding until it's close.
    The hood is the same way. It appears that I will only need to trim some on the front end of it to fit the shape of the radiator.
    Before I do this, is their is recommended angle as to which the front grill is to be at? It is currently at about a 20 degree angle and not sure if it needs to be tilted more to keep the bottom of it higher off the ground? I don't want to trim it only to find out the grill is at he wrong angle and then to find out I took to much off.
    The only panel that seems to not even being close is the front bottom piece under the grill. At the currently angle of the grill, I will need trim about 2" off the front to get it even close to fitting.
    I am hope if to work on these above panels to get me "feet wet" in doing body work before trying to to do the door or side panels. I am not looking forward to the doors!

    Is their an order as to which panels to fit first? For example, do I fit the hood first then the front bottom of the grill and then the sides? I am hoping to get as much input as I can that hopefully will help me get some confidence that I can do the body work and still look OK when I am done. lol. I didn't really budget for outsourcing the body trimming and fit so hoping I can "get er done" on my own otherwise it might push me back some.

    Thanks for any input!
    Charles

  3. #43
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    You probably already know about these but Erik Hansens videos on how to mount the doors are pretty good. They walk you through the process and at least you will have some insight before you start.

  4. #44
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    I would recommend installing the grill as far forward as possible. Make sure it is centered over the chassis.
    Install the hood next by removing as little as possible from the back end because it gets narrow and won't fit the body as well.
    Fit the nose cone roughly next. Leave some excess - you can trim this piece lat the end.
    Side panels last. - they may be a bit short so you can either pull the grill in a little and trim the hood and nose cone more or add material to the side panels. Be carefule pulling the grill in if you have AC and a fan shroud - it brings the fans very close to the shock mount tops.

  5. #45
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by esff32 View Post
    You probably already know about these but Erik Hansens videos on how to mount the doors are pretty good. They walk you through the process and at least you will have some insight before you start.
    I am actually not to worried about installing the doors as much as trimming them to fit as I don't want to take to much off and I want to make sure the gaps are even. I have watched the videos quite a few times and since they were so good, I am comfortable installing them. Thanks

  6. #46
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silent T View Post
    I would recommend installing the grill as far forward as possible. Make sure it is centered over the chassis.
    Install the hood next by removing as little as possible from the back end because it gets narrow and won't fit the body as well.
    Fit the nose cone roughly next. Leave some excess - you can trim this piece lat the end.
    Side panels last. - they may be a bit short so you can either pull the grill in a little and trim the hood and nose cone more or add material to the side panels. Be carefule pulling the grill in if you have AC and a fan shroud - it brings the fans very close to the shock mount tops.
    Thanks for the response. When you say to install the grill as far forward as possible, is that referring to towards the body to have more angle or the other way so it has less angle? I am not at the car now otherwise I would post a picture of how the hood sits with the position of the grill now. It looks like I will only need to take some from the very tip on the front and it looks like the rest will fit good on the grill. If I pull the grill back any away from the direction of the body, the hood may be a little short and will have to add to it. If I tilt the grill more toward the body, I would be able to trim the back some but it seems to fit the body well right now in that area. I will try to take some pictures and post them for you to see. Thanks again!

  7. #47
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    With regards to as far forward I meant pushed out away from the car.

    If you mount it with the bolts on both slots as far forward as possible and your hood is slightly short than you'd be fine to pull it back slightly to match it to the hood.
    The hood matching up front is the hardest and most visible part so it's important to get that looking the best. The nose cone has plenty of extra material and fits inside the grill lip flush.

    Be sure to fit the hood with all the brackets and pressure shocks if your going to use them. They warp the hood when not using some kind of stabilizer to the hood structure and they push the hood up before forward so you need to keep a close eye on the front corners clearing the grill lip as it opens.

  8. #48
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Hello All, I am finally back at it. I haven't really done much since my last post. I have been waiting to get a motor and thought I would try to tackle some of the body fitment in the mean time, but once I started getting in to it, I got a little intimidated as that is definitely not my cup of tea. I decided to hold off on the body until after I get to the "Go Kart" stage. I have talked to Ken up at Kens Custom Auto Body & paint up in Yuba City, who actually does a lot of other FFR builders body work and I have heard a lot of great things about him and his work. I will most likely outsource the body fitment to him to make sure its done right and looks great!

    I just got a motor yesterday. My original plan was to do a brand new Chevy Performance Crate motor and its a little pricey. It turns out a friend of mine, his father is an engine builder and Hot Rod builder himself and I got a completely fresh rebuilt Chevy 350 bored .30 over next to nothing. Just need to add a few things to it and hopefully have it in the car in the next week or so.

    Anybody have instructions on the engine mounts for a SBC? The manual says nothing about how they go in. I have an email in to FFR and waiting to here back.

    Well hopefully everything start to get rolling again and can get to the point to go kart soon. Have a great day!

  9. #49
    Senior Member maczter's Avatar
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    Tried to post the guide as an attachment but it is too large. PM me your email address and I can send you a copy.
    Last edited by maczter; 01-19-2014 at 06:51 PM.
    FFR HR #530
    Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,

    My build blog: http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/

  10. #50
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Been working on the car every chance I get and I am starting to make progress. Its been hard to find time to not work on the car and actually sit at the computer to download pics and update the this thread. Instead of posting everything at once I will update with the photos I have. I got the wire harness all laid out and seems to be pretty straight forward. I was really intimidated but the more I work on it, the more comfortable I am getting.
    Wire harnnes.jpgwire harness 2.jpgwire harness 4.jpg

    I also ran a hard fuel line from the front to the rear on the inside of the bottom rail on the passenger side. I am planning on running SS braided hose in the rear to go from the tank to a filter and then down and connect to the hard line. In the front I also plan to run a SS braided hose from the hardline to the pump, and then to the carburetor. I am planning on doing it this way as for one, I wont have to bend as much line but I also like the look of the SS hose versus hardline especially where it will be visible in the engine compartment.
    fuel line.jpgfuel line front.jpgfuel line rear.jpg

  11. #51
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Here is where I am currently at. I dropped the motor in to test fit everything to make sure the mounts lined up and to see if I would have to move the electric steer motor. Well everything fit perfectly and to my surprise, the oil pan does not hit the electric steering motor. I have about 3/8" clearance.
    electric steering.jpg

    I had both SWP and LWP on hand to test fit. I have heard its hard to find a alternator bracket that works with a SWP and still fit in the engine compartment to still have the ability to run the side panels. I found a bracket from March Performance that is an inward mount and it seems to work so will plan to stick with the SWP and return the LWP.
    My question is, with this set up, can I still run a single V belt, or should I switch out the pulleys and run 2 belts...1 from the crank to the SWP and another from the SWP to the Alternator?
    motor pulleys.jpg

    Since the motor went in and fits, I plan on pulling it out this weekend, attach the tranny and then drop it back in!

  12. #52
    Senior Member maczter's Avatar
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    That was my dilemma with the V-belt. I have run many hi-po SBCs with a single belt, but have also thrown my share as well. They must be aligned perfectly to not throw at high RPM. Having vette style deeper groove pulleys helps. I considered the double belt, but honestly if you are building a driver as opposed to a track car, the single v is fine. I plan on dragging mine a little, and I have a hard right foot on the street.
    FFR HR #530
    Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,

    My build blog: http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/

  13. #53
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Had somewhat of a productive weekend working on the car around other obligations. I finally got the transmission in and man did it take forever to get fluid in the torque converter but found a trick that seem to speed up the process. Got some cardboard to lay the converter on, add fluid and then spin the converter on the card board. It speeds up the process and forces the fluid in quicker! It sure did beat just pouring it in and waiting for it to settle! lol
    After I got the transmission in and bolted, I was quite surprise by the gap from the bottom of the mount, to the plate. Its about a 3-4" gap! I was not expecting this and curious to see what other have done. I will definitely be calling FFR to see if they can be of any help.
    Transmission bolted.jpg
    Gap under tranny mount.jpg

    I got the headers installed and started to run the exhaust. I got to the point of needing clamps and realized they are bare metal so decided to coat them with some paint to help prevent them from rusting. I will try and get the rest of the exhaust installed this week. Looking at how the manual says to install the mounts, it looks like it may be difficult down the road to get to the nuts as it will be just under the floorboard. I am thinking of installing them the opposite, so the nuts are more accessible. Has anybody thought of this or have done this before? Anybody have experience changing the mufflers after the car is done with the clamps in the recommender direction? If so, was it as much of a hassle as I think it would be?
    Headers installed.jpg
    Headers 2.jpg
    start of rear exhaust.jpg

    Going with an Optima battery and got it installed in the recommended location as I want as much trunk space as I can get. I am planning on running remote terminals in the trunk. The motor is just about ready except for finishing fuel lines and the wiring. I am having a difficult time get the HEI distributor to drop all the way in. I have double checked that the intake works with an HEI and also the length of the distributor shaft the distance to the slot on the oil pump shaft and it should fit perfectly as far as length. Any suggestions and trying to get this in all the way is appreciated.

    Have a great week!
    Charles

  14. #54
    Senior Member Boz1911's Avatar
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    There are some spacers included with the kit to go above the trans mount. Not sure if they are long enough for your application.

    You can access the mufflers and mounts after the installation and floor boards are installed.

    If I had it to do over I would have mounted the battery in the trunk or at least a box recessed in the trunk, access is a PITA after everything is installed. Looks like it will be really tight with the Optima.

    Looks good !

  15. #55
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    At the build school they bent exhaust hangers so that bolts were on bottom. I'm having difficulty loading my photos. Send a note to kraftee as he was in class and has already done it. He probably has better photos.

  16. #56
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    some photos. they merely bend hangers. simple?

    IMG_0041.jpgIMG_0042.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  17. #57
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pics! This is how I was thinking of doing and glad that someone else thought of this and is doing the same. Thanks again!
    Quote Originally Posted by mcrumay View Post
    some photos. they merely bend hangers. simple?

    IMG_0041.jpgIMG_0042.jpg

  18. #58
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Hey Boz! I didn't find any spacers that came with the kit but talked to FFR today and they are sending stuff out to make it work. I am debating of maybe just putting the battery in the trunk. The Optima is larger than the recommended battery and I don't think I will be able to get this one out without removing the waterfall and fuel tank down the road. I will look at it more and see if I can find a way to make it easier to get too otherwise it may just end up in the trunk.
    Quote Originally Posted by Boz1911 View Post
    There are some spacers included with the kit to go above the trans mount. Not sure if they are long enough for your application.

    You can access the mufflers and mounts after the installation and floor boards are installed.

    If I had it to do over I would have mounted the battery in the trunk or at least a box recessed in the trunk, access is a PITA after everything is installed. Looks like it will be really tight with the Optima.

    Looks good !

  19. #59
    Senior Member maczter's Avatar
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    I went the battery in the trunk route also. Got a nice aluminum box from Summit and it fits the Optima.
    FFR HR #530
    Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,

    My build blog: http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/

  20. #60
    33 Hot Rod #664 BrentM's Avatar
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    I am mounting mine in the trunk, found this battery mount on ebay, still thinking about the cable routing.



    At some point the battery will need to be changed, 3 years is about average I have found. I am making it easy, plus I am not planing to use the trunk for much.

    Brent

  21. #61
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Got the panel installed under the fuel tank along with the fuel filter and fuel lines installed in the rear.
    panel under fuel tank installed.jpg

    Also got the firewall insulated with Fat Mat. I am going to install a 2nd layer on the foot boxes to try and help with heat from the headers.
    Fat mat installed on firewall.jpg

    Got the transmission mounting plate figured out. I had about a 3" gap from the mount to the supplied plate. FFR helped get it figured out by welding 2 of the supplied plates together with spacers in between. Got it mounted up and seems like it should work.
    new tranny mount to frame.jpg
    Transmission mount installed.jpg

    Getting closer!!

  22. #62
    Senior Member rcotner's Avatar
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    Looking great!! Hey I asked a question on the forum yesterday and haven't had a response yet. I want to use Fatmat in my car too. I was wondering about the heat rating of stuff. I used lizardskin on the outside the firewall but I suppose the inside will still get pretty hot. Any thoughts?

    Thanks, Ray

  23. #63
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Sorry for the delay in getting back to you Ray as I have not been on here for a while. I am not sure what the heat rating is for FatMat. I have been checking around and everybody you talk to will have their own opinion as what is the best way to go. Some even say they don't use anything and that they don't feel much heat. I have seen FatMat mentioned a lot especially in the GTM forums and its a little cheaper in price so just decided to go with it. I got 100 sq. ft. for $139 and with that much, I can probably do the whole inside of the car twice if needed. I am not to worried about heat but would rather the car sound solid.

    Quote Originally Posted by rcotner View Post
    Looking great!! Hey I asked a question on the forum yesterday and haven't had a response yet. I want to use Fatmat in my car too. I was wondering about the heat rating of stuff. I used lizardskin on the outside the firewall but I suppose the inside will still get pretty hot. Any thoughts?

    Thanks, Ray

  24. #64
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Hello all! Here is a little update with where I am at. I managed to get the exhaust brackets installed and centered pretty well. I will finish the rear exit portion once the body is on to make sure the tips are positioned correctly in relation to the body.
    exhaust installed.jpg

    Decided to install the power steering module under the dash and near the body panel opening on the passenger side. I used 1" aluminum spacers to give me room to remove the bolts easily if this unit ever needs to be replaced. I just need to splice in the wiring but still figuring out the best place to tie it into power.
    Power steering module.jpg
    Power steering module 2.jpg

    I also installed the battery disconnect behind the passenger seat and applied Fatmat to the panel. I put this hear to hide it some but still able to reach is from sitting in the driver seat. I have an Optima battery and installing it in the trunk. I am trying to decide what is the best way to route the battery cables. I am thinking about putting a hole in the trunk panel behind the battery and run the cables through their and down between the trunk panel and fuel tank. I would love to see and hear how others have ran their cables.
    Battery Disconnect.jpg

    I have a question on the battery ground. I was planning on running a ground cable (with the positive) from battery and mount it to the frame under the fuel tank. I have the grounding strap that came with the kit and would like to use it since I have it. Will it work OK if I mounted that inside the trunk to the aluminum panel where I can go into the frame?

    Another question I have is grounding the flashers for the LED light on the fuse panel. Where is the best place to ground these. The wires don't seem to be long enough to reach the frame. Is it best lengthen the wires to reach the frame or can bolt them to the aluminum fuse panel. Electrical is not my thing and any guidance is appreciated!

    Thanks!

  25. #65
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    I have been working on getting the trans tunnel fitted in place and is being a PITA! Got the E Brake handle mounted and trimmed the tunnel around it but having issues getting the passenger side to fit flush on the floor panel. It fits very well against the firewall and flat on the driver side floor and not sure what is holding up the passenger side. Anybody have the same issue?
    E Brake handle installed 2.jpg
    E Brake handle installed.jpg

    I have been checking around and hear a lot about not running the fan switch in the bottom of the radiator as it will read lower and instead install in on the intake. Here is where I am thinking of installing the cooling temp sensor and fan switch. I may try to mount one under the alternator but not sure I will have enough clearance.
    Cooling sensor location.jpg

    When I went to install the oil pressure sending unit, I found that the treaded piece is not long enough as the intake manifold sits to high. I went and bought the shortest nipple and coupler I can find and now it sits to high and keeps the distributor from going down on the way. Anybody know if this sending unit needs to be installed vertically or will it be OK to install at the 45 or 90 degree angle? The only option I am aware of was getting an adapter to put this at and angle to clear the distributor. Any one else have an issue and have thoughts on this?

    I got the new red hose FFR just sent out as a replacement for the previous ones sent out. My kit came with what they thought was the correct hose, which they sent a couple weeks ago, but when I was looking to verify it, I found that even that hose was bad. It was wet "sweating" and appeared the brake fluid was seeping through the hose! I am not looking forward to swapping it out but hopefully the red hose fixes the issue.

    I am getting an order ready for Summit to hopefully get most of the final pieces needed to get this fired up and ready to go-kart!! After researching online, I have decided to make my own hoses for my fuel line and cooling lines for the transmission. This way I can make them the correct lengths needed and not have extra hose in the way.

  26. #66
    Senior Member Boz1911's Avatar
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    No problem with oil pressure sending unit mounted at 45 degrees. That's how most are mounted and mine works perfectly.

  27. #67
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Thanks Boz! I picked 45 degree fitting and it clears now!
    Quote Originally Posted by Boz1911 View Post
    No problem with oil pressure sending unit mounted at 45 degrees. That's how most are mounted and mine works perfectly.

  28. #68
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    Charles,

    Thats about where I installed my fan switch sensor on my 351. It seems to work well there. As for the brake hoses, it wasn't fun. I installed their previous solution only to get the red ones in the mail two days later. I wasn't about to pull the body off to do it so I just took a Deep breath and did it one more time. So far so good.

    Evan

  29. #69
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    I know I have not posted in the last 2 months but that is because I have been so busy with work and working on the car, I have not had time for anything else. lol Here is a little update with where I am at now!

    I enjoyed my 1st start back on May 18th but come to fine, my rear main seal was leaking!!! I was happy with the start by not happy with having to clean the oil off the driveway and pulling the pan and replacing the seal. This was a fresh rebuild and come to find that the builder put the seal in backwards.

    Pulled the pan, replaced the rear main seal and installed a new 1 piece Fel Pro pan gasket and what do you know... their is no oil leaks and I don't build engines for a living. lol
    All that frustration, it quickly turned into excitement when I got to drive it when I enjoyed my 1st go kart this past Sunday on June 8th!

    I guess I need a to post the video via you tube and will try to get that set up soon and post the video of it.

  30. #70
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    No Video, but here is a picture of what stage the car is in and was taken the day of the 1st start. Please excuse the messy garage. We were in the process of replacing the flooring in our house this same weekend.lol
    Day of 1st start.jpg

  31. #71
    Senior Member Boz1911's Avatar
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    She's getting there !! I thought I had a leak from the rear main on mine but it turned out it was the rear of the intake where I was too frugal with the silicone. I redid it last week and now no leaks.

  32. #72
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Its been another few months since my last post but here is an update! Had a really busy summer with work but still managed to get some time on the car.
    Since my last post, I have had my body fitment done, all the lights installed and functioning correctly, fabricated some heat shields for the muffler, installed Fatmat just about every where inside, installed rear exhaust, been through the California SB100 registration process, and been driving the car! As of today, I am up to 140 miles on the speedometer! Getting it all broken and doing my checks to make sure it is all staying together...so far so good!

    Last week started working on the body and getting it ready for paint. I am taking it back in tomorrow to get the rest finished and should have it back painted with in a few weeks time!

    Here are some pics
    Attached Images Attached Images

  33. #73
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    Nice job! car is looking good!

  34. #74
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Nice job! car is looking good!
    Thanks!

  35. #75
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    The build is looking great.

  36. #76
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68GT500MAN View Post
    The build is looking great.
    Thanks!

  37. #77
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    FFR Hot Rod #600 is officially registered in Calfiornia! Completed the SB100 process and got my plates today!

  38. #78
    Senior Member rcotner's Avatar
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    Aug 2013
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    Congratulations! That's great. I can only imagine the feeling...

  39. #79
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    Finish line is in sight!

    Getting pretty close to being done and back on the road! Here are some pics of where I am at as the painting has begun and should be done and the body should be back on the car after Christmas!

    I didn't like the flex that the trunk latch had being attached to the body on one side and the aluminum panel on the other. Used some angle iron and some flat steel to make a support for the trunk panel and to also the mount the bottom of the trunk latch too. It made a huge difference!


    Body primed.jpg

    Dash painted.jpg

    Driver door.jpg

    Hood.jpg

    Trunk ready.jpg

    Trunk Support bracket.jpg

  40. #80
    Senior Member crspdsk8's Avatar
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    The car is just about complete but figured I would update this thread. Here is a few photos from the body work getting done! We were having a big issue getting the radius of the trunk lid to match the radius of the body. I am not sure the best way to describe it but we drilled a few holes and inserted an epoxy resin in the hollow areas of the underside of the trunk lid. We then used a couple cables to hold it in its shape while the epoxy dried. This also helped the trunk lid to be more rigid and have a lot less flex. It now feels solid!

    Body-coming-off-for-paint.jpgBody-work-coming-along.jpgchin-mod.jpgReady-for-paint.jpgstart-of-body-work-2.jpgTrunk-work.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by crspdsk8; 01-30-2015 at 03:25 AM.

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